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I wouldn't worry too much about the timberheads and quarterdeck stanchions at this point, Kevin.  I think you will find them much easier to shape off the model then installed later after the various plankshears (rails) are in place. The most important thing to do is to get the toptimber levels correct, with smooth graceful lines. They are also parallel athwartships. This is much easier to do without timberheads and stanchions in the way. Later on, you can form the various plankshears from two sections with slots left to receive each timberhead or stanchion. David illustrates this beautifully in his book.
 

Installing Square frames 10-6

So a long time has passed and many frames >100 have been assembled. The templates were changed to ensure that the upper holes are aligned in a horizontal line the same height above the keel for all sections.
In these holes copper pins are inserted to align one section with the next.
 
The photo shows a section being glued to its adjacent section with the keel push fit to ensure that the two pins and the keel are all aligned. Note that the rough gunport openings have been cut before gluing the sections. This allows a nice clamp location to keep pressure on the sections.
All the sections are assembled this way but at the midpoint the sections are push fit on the pins and not glued.
 
Keel forward with stem and keel aft with stern are push fit into the sections and are joined together in the middle with a wedged scarph.
 
 
Rough fairing has been done inside and more fairing externally to start to see the lines emerge. Only enough is taken off so that the adjacent frames of two joined sections form a double frame.   In the meantime some work has taken place on the stern galleries as I expect them to be tricky and to get the geometry working. More about these in the next post  
     
 
 

I am forgetting my manners.......thank you for the welcome messages from ever pleasant members of this excellent forum.

Looks like the topic has cooled off a bit so let throw some coal on the fire. With the summer coming to a close now is a good time to consider it. A carving "build' holds some interest for me as it would stretch my skill. One for just a deck section with some masts and rigging would do well also.
 
I agree with TLAVINE mentioned earlier that large projects are problematic for previous reasons mentioned and a smaller 'build' might be a better fit.  A small build project sounds like a shorter term obligation than a long term one. It is certainly a better fit into my current life.
 
So with fall and winter ( northern hemisphere ) model building season beginning any other thoughts or interest out there? 

Really nice section model, Frank

Fantastic. Your model looks like a real ship

Really nice section model, Frank

Fantastic. Your model looks like a real ship

Part 47 – Main Deck Coamings, Ladders, etc.
 
I’ll be bringing Dunbrody to the NRG Conference in San Diego later this week, so since the last post I’ve been focused on getting Dunbrody to a semi-completed state.
 
The hatch coamings for the main deck were completed.  Work began by clamping the coaming timbers (those that are longitudinal to the hatch) to the carlings underneath.  Since both items were the same width, this kept the sides of the coamings flush with the carlings, so that there were no obstructions in the hatch opening.
 
                       
 
The coamings were temporarily pinned to the carlings to keep them in place.
 
                       
 
Marks were made on the coamings to indicate the position of the lap joints.
 
                       
 
Markings were also made on the ledge timbers (the hatch timbers that run athwart ship).
 
                       
 
These ledge timbers are so-called because they have a ledge for supporting the planks that would serve as hatch covers.  These ledges were cut in on the milling machine set up as a router, as previously shown.
 
                       
 
The hatch timbers were assembled off the ship, with excess length left in place for trimming later.
 
                       
 
After the hatch frame was trimmed it was then glued and clamped in place.
 
                       
 
The same process was followed for the aft hatch, except that no ledges were cut since the aft hatch area will be fully occupied by the aft companionway.
 
                       
 
The forward of the two hatches (the main hatch) will also support a companionway towards the rear of that hatch.  The aftmost ledge timber for the hatch itself can be seen on the following photo approximately two thirds behind the front of the hatch.
 
                       
 
Deck planking was begun after the hatch coamings were installed.  Planking started at the port edge of the main hatch.  The starboard side of the deck will be left open, following the approach that has been used throughout the model.
 
                       
 
Some planking was also left open in the area above the sleeping platforms, to allow better viewing of the Accommodation Deck structures.  The main hatch will also be left open for this purpose.  At the same time that deck planking was under way, ladders were made for the fore and aft companionways, for access to the Accommodation Deck from the Main Deck.  The process for making ladders was explained in an earlier post.
 
                       
 
The hull planking was also treenailed during this work.  Treenails were made from bamboo skewers, which were split down and pulled through a Byrnes drawplate.
 
                       
 
                       
 
Finally, a mast coat with wedges was made, following the same process that was used on the Accommodation Deck.
 
                       
 
                       
 
A finish of wipe-on poly was applied to the entire hull, main deck, and railings.
 
Dunbrody has been mounted on its building board during the entire construction process.  This building board is too large for display at NRG, and it is less secure than would be appropriate for a long drive from Phoenix to San Diego.  The plans are for Dunbrody to sit on a base that is constructed as a traditional Launching Way, consisting of slipways and a launching cradle.  Since this base has not yet been started, a temporary base was constructed.  This new base was made from fairly thick timbers and has some padding for Dunbrody to sit on, so that the base can be used during any subsequent construction.
 
                       
 
So now Dunbrody is ready for the trip to NRG.
 
                       
 
                       
 
                       
 
          
 
There’s still a lot of work to do, once Dunbrody is back home:  Companionways fore and aft; deadeyes and chainplates for the port side; a fife rail for the main mast; spider band on the main mast; belaying pins for  the pin rails, fife rail, and spider band; bollards and mooring openings; and, finally, the permanent base as described above.
 
In the meantime, thanks everyone for being part of this enjoyable build, and I hope to see some of you in San Diego.

Continuation.
 
 
 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 
 
 
The beginning of the relation is available at this address:
 
 
http://5500.forumact...ndre-1-24#66516
 
 
 
Regards, Pawel

Continuation.
 
 

 
 
 

 
 
 

 
 
 
 
The beginning of the relation is available at this address:
 
 
http://5500.forumact...ndre-1-24#66516
 
 
 
Regards, Pawel

Continuation.
 
 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 
 
 
The beginning of the relation is available at this address:
 
 
http://5500.forumact...ndre-1-24#66516
 
 
 
Regards, Pawel

October 02 2016
 
I managed to glue all the transom pieces to the stern post this weekend.
 
Notching the transom pieces to slide over the post was so tight that the glue was scraped off when sliding them together so I file a couple grooves on the sides of the transom piece notches to retain some glue when assembled.
 
Doesn't look half bad and starting to look like a ship.   
 
I'l have to add a few more bolts to the stern post.

Worked on stemson and sternson today. Hahn plans omit both, so it is another thing that is up to the builder. TFFM depicts stemson in a quite detailed way, and I found sternson in Ed Tosti's Naiad build log:
http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/232-hms-naiad-by-edt-160-frigate-38-1797/?view=findpost&p=11542
http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/232-hms-naiad-by-edt-160-frigate-38-1797/?view=findpost&p=5659
Nobody knows if Oliver Cromwell had a sternson, but decided to make it anyway to cover mistakes done in the center of transom wings.
 
First attempt was an epic failure. Tip: do not put small pieces into the thickness planer - they might rotate and be chewed by the planer blades. Ouch!

 
Practiced with small chisels (will need the chiseling skill for deck framing anyway):

 

 
Result:

 
Now applying tung oil. Masking is not very effective with oil, since it sips through the wood grain, but better than nothing.
Where possible, was using a window cleaning cloth to apply the oil:

 
Otherwise, small brush is also fine (need to wipe with a cloth later):

 
The oil is surprisingly forgiving to different application methods.
Freshly oiled pieces:

 
The last part is a cleanup and recycling of the scrap pieces - my daughter helps with that. She has a good enough imagination to build stuff out of scrap and then play with it

 
For example, this was her salvaging the frame blank cutoff pile a year ago. She says it is a city skyline with a giant cristmas tree on the main square:

The stern timbers have been glued to the wing transom using the jig shown several posts back.  The outer ones (which were doubled to get the fairing right) may need just a hair sanded off.  I put a temporary batten across the inside for more support.  The wales go on next, which will  provide much more support. 
Maury

The second wale strakes have been installed.  Clamped to the frames and held tight against the first strake.
Once the glue sets, I pull off the stern timber jig.
Maury

The two thin strakes of wales are in.  I made the mast step and the steps for the two capstan axles.  The step for the mast has a rectangular hole and the ones for the capstans are round for the diameter of the axles.  There is nothing in the Grice drawings about the steps so I took some liberty.  They are fit but not permanently attached.
Maury

Your dreadnought is looking really beautiful. Thanks for your interesting build log

Your dreadnought is looking really beautiful. Thanks for your interesting build log

Your dreadnought is looking really beautiful. Thanks for your interesting build log

Your dreadnought is looking really beautiful. Thanks for your interesting build log