AnobiumPunctatum

Installing the rising wood and the gun port sills

Video 20, installation of the forward square frames L-G

Looks really good

Cut the recesses for the brackets and horseshoes.
 
The brackets set just above the staples left a sliver of wood at the top.
I pinned these but still had to hold them down with my thumb to scribe along the edge with a scalpel.
I then removed the bracket and followed the cut line with a carving knife to get it deeper.
I used a mini chisel to remove the material and needed to wear my magnifying headpiece to see what I was doing otherwise it would have been much worse.
My eyesight is not what is used to be and is just getting worse.
 

 

 
I couldn't pin the horseshoe as the pins would have been in the way of scribing and holding with my thumb... ended up tracing the outline with a pencil and then scribing with the scalpel and knife just inside the line as best as I could.  I also had to remove the fore most staple as it would have been under the horseshoe.  I will reinstall these after they get shortened a wee bit.
I am happy with the outcome.
 

 

 
I marked the pockets and the back side of each piece with coloured markers so I know which goes where as they are not identical... just like the real build would have been.
I may install these and blacken them in place using a much weaker solution than the first time I tried with the staples.

Very interesting construction method.
If you paint the outside of the frames black before you glue in the filler pieces, you will have a very good reference line for shapeing the hull.

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 172 – Stay Bullseyes/Eyebolts
 
There are six "heavy duty" eyebolts with shackled bullseyes that secure the two legs of the fore, main, and main topmast stays.  Those of the main mast are anchored in the deck and the forestay is secured to the knightheads.  I'm including these and all deck and hull eyebolts as part of the "pre-rigging" and intend to install all those connections before starting on the masts.  The process for making the bullseyes and fitting the iron shackles is very similar to that used on the channel deadeyes described earlier.  The process starts with the bullseyes.
 
There are two sizes of these bullseyes, 11" for the fore and main stays and 8" for the main topmast stay.
 
After turning a cherry cylinder the small bullseyes were shaped in the lathe and parted off first, followed by the larger size.  This allows them to be turned "overhanging" without end support and without deflection.  The first picture shows one of the 11" bullseyes being turned.
 

 
The edges were rounded with a file before the parting step shown in the photo.  The pieces were then filed/sanded to remove stubs from the parting.  They were then set up in chuck in the rotating table as described earlier for the deadeyes.  The rotating table is not really required for this, but it is easy to center with a dial indicator on the center hole.  I believe this was shown earlier.  The center holes in the bullseyes were then drilled as shown below.
 

 
I did this in the mill as described so the holes would be precisely centered.  Although lathe drilling can be very convenient, sometimes (at least in my aging Unimat) it is more likely to produce off center holes, especially on the smaller pieces.  In fact, for the small bullseyes I started the hole with a center drill before changing to the final small drill bit.  The larger bit shown on the 11" bullseye above was stiff enough to stay on center without that time consuming step.
 
The edges of the bores in all of the bullseyes were then rounded by twirling diamond bits by hand in a pin vise as shown below.
 

 
The bullseyes were then polished up and dyed with a non-fading walnut stain made from VanDyke crystals.  These will later be waxed. 
 
The next picture shows the first step in making the shackle.
 

 
The shackle bolts were silver- soldered to the ends of the shackle with the eyebolts slipped on but away from the solder.  These were then maneuvered over the bolt end of the shackle.  The six shackles with their eyebolts are shown below.
 

 
These were then slipped over the bullseyes, crimped and each whole assembly washed with liver of sulfur to blacken the copper.  The blackened assemblies are shown drying on a paper towel in the next picture.
 

 
The next picture shows two large bullseyes for the forestay bolted through the knightheads.  
 

 
These are often shown bolted into the tops of the knightheads, but this makes no sense to me because the strain could easily split open the top of the knighthead.  I bolted these through the aft side just below the top. (Engineering license.)
 
The connections for the main and main topmast stays are shown below.  Iron reinforcing plates were fitted at the base of these.
 

 
Location of these required some consideration (and again some license was exercised).  The larger mainstay eyebolts are anchored through the deck beam.  The position was plotted using a dummy lower mast and a full sized line to check for interferences with the bitts, the cabin roof, the foremast, and the anchor chain openings. The smaller main topmast stay eyebolts are likewise anchored on the deck and not to a cross member between the bitts as is often shown.  I omitted this member on both fore and main masts because rigging for the double topsail rig greatly increases congestion of ropes in this area, especially in front of the mast.  The location shown seemed logical, and as with the larger stay, will avoid interferences – I hope. 
 
 
Ed

I'm pleased to announce that the book is available from SeaWatch Books as of today, September 1. Details are on their web site.

Sept 03 2016
 
Installed the last two pieces of the Rising Wood.
 

Dry fitted into place (a tight fit)
 

glued and clamped
 

Done
 
I have to chisel in a few more reliefs in the aft deadwood and likely sand a bit more on the stem assembly before I fit the transom pieces that are already cut out as I won't be able to lay the assembly down on its side to do this work if the transom pieces are installed

Work progresses on the forecastle framing and installing the catheads.  There are two 9" sheaves in the cathead.  These were made by drilling a series of holes along the length of the sheave opening perpendicular to the water line and then connecting the holes with an 11 blade.  The sheaves were made from round brass stock, cut off on the Preac saw.  These were then drilled for a pin.  The cathead was also drilled and after blackening the sheaves and pin was inserted.
 
The cathead was inserted under the third beam and glued into place.  Then the second beam with its associated knees were installed.  Bolts were inserted through the two beams into the cathead.  The first beam was then installed.  Finally, the knee between the first and second beams was installed.  This was initially fabricated as one piece.  With the cathead in place, the middle portion of the knee was removed for a snug fit.  Carlings were inserted between the deck clamp and the first beam to support the bowsprit partner.  Mortises were made for the half hook laterally and the partner medially.  Finally, the half hoods and partner were installed.
 
I have been practicing carving the cap for the cathead.  Let us just say that it is a work in progress...
 

 

 

 

 
 
 
 

As mentioned above, I rebuilt the jeer bitts and crosspiece.  Again, thanks to Dave for pointing it out.  The only reason I can think of for the glaring mistake is a total brain shutdown.  Forgive the Qtip fuzz on the crosspiece...  It's gone now.
 

 

 
 
The stove flue is comprised of two sections.  The lower section is conical and the upper is cylindrical.  On most of the Swan class ships there is an angled piece with a baffle.  On Atalanta and Fly the flue is straight.  While I was waiting for Druxey's affirmation, I made up both types of ends for the stove flue, straight and angled.  The conical section is made by cutting a v-shaped slit in an oversize brass tube.  The tube was heated to remove the temper and slit was closed, resulting in a conical shape.  This was then silver soldered and the top and bottom were cut off for the correct length.  The upper and lower sections were then soldered together and the piece was blackened and coated with Floquil dull finish.  I still need to make a metal plate for the coaming.
 

 

 
Druxey, maybe the captain "borrowed" the flue from Pegasus after enough rain ran down into the stove!

Really beautiful rigging

It's looking really beautiful

It's looking really beautiful

Thanks for the nice words and likes! That really helps to find more modelling time
 
Finally got the micro-drill working, so now the clamp installation goes faster.
After marking the treenail locations with the pencil, they are accentuated with the scriber (I know, bad use for the scriber):

 
That is required to avoid the drill wobble, it is not very balanced (chinese crap):

 
And then install the boxwood treenails - these ones are not just for looks, they are injected at least few millimiters into the frames and glued, hope that will make a strong bond between frames and deck clamps, to avoid the hull cracking and twisting during the dry winter months. 

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 171 – Rigging Cleats 2
 
There are ten larger 12" cleats.  These will be used to belay the sheets and tacks for the lower sails on each mast.  They could have been made by the method used on the 9" cleats described in the last part, but the larger size and the lower required number suggested a fabricated approach.  One of the shaped cleats is shown in the next picture with the remaining unfinished silver-soldered fabrications.
 

 
After soldering, each cleat was shaped by filing as shown in the next pictures.
 

 
The hand vise shown above was helpful but most of the work was done with the piece in the vise as shown below.
 

 
In this picture the single bolt is being filed to size.  Nine of the required ten are shown below.
 

 
The tenth sailed off to parts unknown while being buffed with the rotary tool, so another had to be made.  Murphy's rule corollary:  If you fail to make spares, they will later be required.
 
The next picture shows two of these installed.
 

 
Cleats on the rail like the one shown are for the tacks.  Those on the deck will belay the sheets that pass through the bulwark sheaves like the one under the pin rail in the picture.  The next picture shows one of these cleats mounted on each of the catheads.
 

 
These will belay the fore course tacks.  The eight small cleats for the jib sheets may also be seen on the breast beam in this picture.
 
 
Ed

Thank you friends!!
 
Crane anchor:
   

 

 

 

Hello everyone!
 
Just a small update. The Quoin handles are now on the carriages. They are very small measuring 3/64" wide and 1/8" long. They were turned on the Dremel from 8mm boxwood belaying pins purchased from Model Shipways (also sold by Amati). The bowsprit step is scratched using Chuck's method as a guide. The only difference being that the beam holes in the middle post were drilled oversize 3/32", thus making it easier to file the square holes on the two outer posts. Some red paint, pins and washers will be added to complete the part.
 

 

 

 
 

Really beautiful rigging

Really beautiful rigging

380 hours in and feeling really good!
 
As you will see in the photos below, I have completed the fairing of the hull in 80grit paper and an orbital sander.  I then used a box knife blade to scrape the surface clean.  You will note the use of the templates to ensure that I was on target.  I decided to replace a few of the frames that were not up to my liking.  This was very risky and actually caused me a bit of angst as I was tearing them out...
 
Since last week, I also completed the stern filler pieces, these are dadoed into the stern transom.  I am happy with the results.
 
I marked the bottom of the lower sills and then ran masking tape to ensure they were in a nice sweep along the sides.  I then placed temporary cross spauls where the ports were to see that everything lined up on the ship.  I was pleased with the results.
 
One thing that I missed was the top timbers.  I should have made them long and then cut them down.  As it is, there area a group of 6 frames along the dead flat that are too short!  I will likely pull those frames out and redo them.
 
The time to have made some of the rework was at the time I initially installed the pieces.  Now it will take longer and I run the risk of damaging things.  This being said, I feel confident that I can make these repairs and have them look good.
 

Hi friends,
thanks for the kind comments and likes.
New pictures of the 74 gun-ship.
Karl
 
 
​T e i l  10
 

Continuation.
 
 
 

 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
The beginning of the relation is available at this address:
 
 
http://5500.forumact...ndre-1-24#66516
 
 
 
Regards, Pawel

Boxwood carving for the barge in progress.  Using a #11 blade.   Its half done.   Left side shows the laser cut blank while the right side is almost there.   The blanks are glued to a piece of scrap with elmers glue.  In this case I just used a glue stick.  Make sure its really glued down good.  Especially the ends of the thin parts that are susceptible to breakage.  I sandwich the glued up piece with another scrap sheet and clamp them together so the piece stays flat and doesnt curl up. The blanks are just 1/32" thick and sandwiching keeps them flat so all the surfaces glue up nicely.   Leave them overnight to dry really good.....now you are ready to carve.
 
The finished carving is removed from the base by just dumping it face-first into a bath of 90% rubbing alcohol for 5 or 6 hours.  They usually just fall right off the base.   Let them air dry and you are good to go.
 

 
When you dont have lots of time to spend on the model its good to keep these carving blanks around the shop.  You can easily spend a half hour or 45 minutes doing a little at a time.  There are nine such pieces in this kit that will need to be carved.  But dont worry .....a resin casting kit will be available for those who dont want to carve them or give this a try.  But I urge to to do so...its a lot of fun and addicting.   The guys in the club cant get enough of them to play around with.
 
Chuck

No sweaters for me.
 
The agony.....besides my toothache.....its whether to gild or not???
 
I am leaning towards no gilding.  I do like it but its  just me.  It also shows every last surface pimple and carving screw up.   But it is a royal barge.
 
I think I like the way the carvings look with just WOP applied.   Which means I must carve another queen Anne cipher.   Oh well!!  The close-ups are also brutal....the smaller image looks more like the gilded example in reality.  It looks rather nasty in that large photo.
 
Chuck
 

 

 

 

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 170 – Rigging Cleats 1
 
Most of the work to be done before embarking on masts and rigging is to install a variety of rigging connection points to the decks and hull.  There are two sizes of cleats on the model.  They are being made by two different methods.  I will start first with the smaller 9" long cleats.
 
There are a few dozen of these, too many and too small for me to consider fabricating them in pieces, so they were sliced off the milled brass section shown in the first photo.
 

 
In the next picture a 9" square rod (1/8" actual) has been aligned on the milling plate, clamped, and is having a shallow, concave groove milled in the top.
 

 
Next, the piece was inverted and the sides milled to form the rough fina,l stepped, "T" shape.
 

 
The piece was then rounded and refined by filing before slicing off the cleats.  The slicing is being done as shown below using a thin slotting saw blade and a sacrificial wood fence.
 

 
This method allows the small pieces to be cut to a precise thickness – in this case about 3" (.030" actual).  The individual cleats were then rounded by filing and polished as shown below.
 

 
The brass cleats were then blackened and finally inserted in drilled holes with a small drop of CA to keep them in place – shown below.
 

 
The next picture shows the small cleats installed on the poop deck.  These will eventually secure some of the lighter mizzen rigging.
 

 
The next picture shows cleats on the forecastle.  These are duplicated on the port side and will belay the jib sheets.
 

 
In the next part, the larger 12" cleats for the lower sails' sheets and tacks will be described.
 
 
Ed