AnobiumPunctatum

Really beautiful rigging

380 hours in and feeling really good!
 
As you will see in the photos below, I have completed the fairing of the hull in 80grit paper and an orbital sander.  I then used a box knife blade to scrape the surface clean.  You will note the use of the templates to ensure that I was on target.  I decided to replace a few of the frames that were not up to my liking.  This was very risky and actually caused me a bit of angst as I was tearing them out...
 
Since last week, I also completed the stern filler pieces, these are dadoed into the stern transom.  I am happy with the results.
 
I marked the bottom of the lower sills and then ran masking tape to ensure they were in a nice sweep along the sides.  I then placed temporary cross spauls where the ports were to see that everything lined up on the ship.  I was pleased with the results.
 
One thing that I missed was the top timbers.  I should have made them long and then cut them down.  As it is, there area a group of 6 frames along the dead flat that are too short!  I will likely pull those frames out and redo them.
 
The time to have made some of the rework was at the time I initially installed the pieces.  Now it will take longer and I run the risk of damaging things.  This being said, I feel confident that I can make these repairs and have them look good.
 

Hi friends,
thanks for the kind comments and likes.
New pictures of the 74 gun-ship.
Karl
 
 
​T e i l  10
 

Continuation.
 
 
 

 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
The beginning of the relation is available at this address:
 
 
http://5500.forumact...ndre-1-24#66516
 
 
 
Regards, Pawel

Boxwood carving for the barge in progress.  Using a #11 blade.   Its half done.   Left side shows the laser cut blank while the right side is almost there.   The blanks are glued to a piece of scrap with elmers glue.  In this case I just used a glue stick.  Make sure its really glued down good.  Especially the ends of the thin parts that are susceptible to breakage.  I sandwich the glued up piece with another scrap sheet and clamp them together so the piece stays flat and doesnt curl up. The blanks are just 1/32" thick and sandwiching keeps them flat so all the surfaces glue up nicely.   Leave them overnight to dry really good.....now you are ready to carve.
 
The finished carving is removed from the base by just dumping it face-first into a bath of 90% rubbing alcohol for 5 or 6 hours.  They usually just fall right off the base.   Let them air dry and you are good to go.
 

 
When you dont have lots of time to spend on the model its good to keep these carving blanks around the shop.  You can easily spend a half hour or 45 minutes doing a little at a time.  There are nine such pieces in this kit that will need to be carved.  But dont worry .....a resin casting kit will be available for those who dont want to carve them or give this a try.  But I urge to to do so...its a lot of fun and addicting.   The guys in the club cant get enough of them to play around with.
 
Chuck

No sweaters for me.
 
The agony.....besides my toothache.....its whether to gild or not???
 
I am leaning towards no gilding.  I do like it but its  just me.  It also shows every last surface pimple and carving screw up.   But it is a royal barge.
 
I think I like the way the carvings look with just WOP applied.   Which means I must carve another queen Anne cipher.   Oh well!!  The close-ups are also brutal....the smaller image looks more like the gilded example in reality.  It looks rather nasty in that large photo.
 
Chuck
 

 

 

 

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 170 – Rigging Cleats 1
 
Most of the work to be done before embarking on masts and rigging is to install a variety of rigging connection points to the decks and hull.  There are two sizes of cleats on the model.  They are being made by two different methods.  I will start first with the smaller 9" long cleats.
 
There are a few dozen of these, too many and too small for me to consider fabricating them in pieces, so they were sliced off the milled brass section shown in the first photo.
 

 
In the next picture a 9" square rod (1/8" actual) has been aligned on the milling plate, clamped, and is having a shallow, concave groove milled in the top.
 

 
Next, the piece was inverted and the sides milled to form the rough fina,l stepped, "T" shape.
 

 
The piece was then rounded and refined by filing before slicing off the cleats.  The slicing is being done as shown below using a thin slotting saw blade and a sacrificial wood fence.
 

 
This method allows the small pieces to be cut to a precise thickness – in this case about 3" (.030" actual).  The individual cleats were then rounded by filing and polished as shown below.
 

 
The brass cleats were then blackened and finally inserted in drilled holes with a small drop of CA to keep them in place – shown below.
 

 
The next picture shows the small cleats installed on the poop deck.  These will eventually secure some of the lighter mizzen rigging.
 

 
The next picture shows cleats on the forecastle.  These are duplicated on the port side and will belay the jib sheets.
 

 
In the next part, the larger 12" cleats for the lower sails' sheets and tacks will be described.
 
 
Ed

It has been a while since my last postings.  Summer is always very busy and leaves little time for modeling.
 
I built the forecastle hatch coamings and gratings.  These are made like the ones on the upper deck except the scantlings are all smaller.  When making hatch coamings, it it much easier to build the grating first and make the hatch fit the grating.  Needless to say I made two sets of hatches.  
 

 

 
Before there was any more detail to knock loose, I decided to apply the horseshoes and dovetail plates.  These are from Greg's photoetch set.  They were cut off the sprue and their outline was drawn onto the hull.  Using an 11 blade, I make a light impression just inside the pencilled outline.  Then I cut away the inner area with a 3mm chisel.  The bolts are blackened brass wire.  I enlarged the holes in the plates to a 75 drill bit to accomodate the wire.  The plates were then epoxied to the hull.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
I will be applying minimal planking to the forecastle deck.  The waterway was made by taking a template of the outline of the bulwark and then cutting out a piece of costello to fit.  The rebate was hand cut.
 

Your Kingfisher is just beautyful. Can you post some bigger pictures? I would like to see a lot more details.

My modelling progress is quite slow,  barely find few hours per week to work on it.
Still installing various deck clamps:

 
Using scrapers to make the final shaping of the clamps when they are already installed. Straight or curved, depending on a section:

 

 
And a final polish with a straight xacto blade, it barely removes any material, but leaves a nice finish, better than sandpaper for such tight locations:

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 168 – Binnacle
 
"Odds and ends" seems to be the order of the day for the past month or so.  Not the best prescription for a lazy, hot summer.  Too easy to procrastinate.   Big consuming tasks are better.    On these little projects it is first research, then the drawing, then the modeling and photos – one step at a time.  The binnacle is one such piece.  A small part, but to judge by the mess left in the shop, one would think it had been the entireTitanic.
 
It started out as a cherry cylinder, turned to the ID of a brass tube from which two decorative rings were turned.  The next picture shows stage 1.
 

 
The four-paned glazed top was next.  It too, was made from a section of the same tube with the glass mullions filed out on the end as shown in the next picture.
 

 
The solid rod in the tube helps establish a constant depth and prevents the vise from squashing it.  The next larger size tube was used to make a ring to fit around the bottom of the top – shown below.
 

 
Telescoping tube is very handy for making a variety of assemblies.  I try to keep a stock on hand.  The mullions were then bent to the center and the assembly silver soldered.  The parts at this stage are shown below.
 

 
The cap was then sawed off the tube.  I did not want to leave the top without glass but making and fitting small panes like this is well beyond my ability, so I decided to make a small Plexiglas® prism to fit inside the brass top.  In the next picture a rod is being turned to the diameter of the wood cylinder.
 

 
A four sided prism was filed at the end of this until it fit well in the brass top.  It was then polished using Micromesh® sticks, followed by buffing – shown below.
 

 
The assembly was finally glued together using small droplets of thin CA.  The final piece is shown positioned on deck in the next picture.
 
 
 
I guess the two rudder pendant chains will be next.
 
Ed

parasartie (I don't know their name in english, sorry!)
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I gave a sealer coat of paint to the deck:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

hello giampieroricci.
thank you for your comments.
to make the barrels, I use wedge cut wood and held together with colablanca. mixed with bitumen, so that the connection between the boards is visible.
a greeting. cabrapente

Really nice progress, Mick

Really nice progress, Mick

Really nice progress, Mick

HI ALL
 
FILLING TRANSOMS FITTED AND PARTIALLY FAIRED.
 
STERN TAFFRAIL FITTED....JUST SOME FILLING TIMBERS TO GO IN.
 
IT LOOKS LIKE I WAS A FRACTION SHORT WITH THE STARBOARD STERN FASHION PIECE.....SHOULDNT BE A PROBLEM AS THE PLANKING WILL EVENTUALLY COVER THIS INDISCRETION.
 
BASICS OF THE HULL ARE THEREFORE NEARLY DONE.
 
I WILL CUT THE MAIN SHEERLINE TO FINAL SIZE ONCE THE WALE STRAKES ARE ON.
 
CHEERS FOR NOW........MICK

Why do you apologize?
 
The styrene kits are some times better than wooden kits. It's not the material, it#s the model builder who makes the model.
 
I'll follow your log with great interest

I have added small vents to where the AOTS references them, the rear compass stand, two aftermarket winches (instead of the blobs provided), the coaling booms, affixed the main mast..
 
A big problem is that a LOT of the deck glue is going, requiring the application of glue to affix it properly. .
 
I have now added all the hatch covers bar one which is going to be sanded right back and re done due to a fail on my behalf, plus I added the breakwaters. Photos of those later once I have done up the ships boats.

The finalization of the fore mast. Went togeather with great fanfare until some idiot put the mast on backwards, the had to pull it apart and start again. Then the standing rigging.
 
The i added all the back stays, 2 days work as the lines are sooo fine.
 
The of course, that bloke Murphy caught up. The glue on the crows nest gave way. So, as the thing is fully rigged with elastic under tension, I had to hold it in the correct plane and then make sure the yards are parallel to the deck both laterally and horizontally with one hand and glue with the other.  Pain in the backside. 
 
Then I thought i'd got away with it and the middle yard snapped it's brace to the mast. As above a pain in the butt but using a set of helping hands it was remedied. 
 
Finally, the rigging of the mast is complete. It is not as strait as I'd like but I will add stays later.
 

 

Man flu aside, I managed to get the main mast finished. I added tiny turnbuckles to allow the stays.
 
Then just a matter of rigging it up and adding the coaling derricks which I rigged up as well. . I also added a small ladder up to the wireless telegraph yard.
 
Then dry fit on the deck. I don't need to glue it down yet but it fits perfectly.
 
 

Now, there are a LOT of ships boats. The kit provides some aftermarket and I've added a bit more just to be silly.
 
The row boats need to be hollowed out and some grates and planks added,
 
And finally the davits. The loop shown is supposed to be canvas strap which I'll remove and rig properly (to a point).
 
I am in the process of painting these now.

The large boats now added to the ship.
 
And the breakwaters.

The trickiest thing so far, the davits, with the canvas straps replaced, rigging attached and the smaller whalers.