AnobiumPunctatum

Thanks Hakan. After the build of the half model I planned the next steps.
 
 
... but I made a careless mistake during shapeing the stem. In the moment I fix it and than I hope to continue the log

more...

 

 

Glue is then applied to each lift.  I am very liberal with the glue so I have to wait a little longer for it to get tacky.  Be careful doing this.  You don't want to wait too long because you want all the excess glue to easily squeeze out.

Hi Christian,
 
I've missed your updates since last summer. Very nice and convincing half model for a start.
And 1:32...that's Geatan style, impressive. 
Clean job on the keel so far, very nice.

The next step in the process is to place the straight edge of the template on the edge of the wood you've chosen,  and then put a mark on the wood where the midships will be.   From the edge you chose set your square on the mark and draw a line across the wood.  This line will be used later to align the lifts when you are gluing them together.  More on this later.  With the template where I want I tape it to the wood in a few places.  Then I draw the shape of the half lift by running a #2 pencil around the template's edge, inside and out.  Remember to flip the mylar template over to do the other half of the lift. When the outline of the half lift is on the wood I'm ready to cut it out on my bandsaw.  Before I do I mark on each piece its lift #, whether it's top or bottom, and whether it's the left of right side.  This helps to prevent stupid errors.  The photo shows all the half lifts, except # 8 cut to shape.  Number 8 lift is just two small piece of wood so they don't need a template.

Next is to cut stock a scale ¾" square. This is next to impossible without a zero-clearance table and a slitting saw blade. So I made an insert of aluminum sheet and raised the saw blade through this, as shown (upper left). Note that, on this saw, I have an Accuriser II fence. I attached a secondary scale measuring in inches at 1/48 scale. This avoids having to translate from thousandths of an inch (actual) to scale inches.
 
I cut several sheets of 1/64" Castello stock and rubber cemented them to a sacrificial piece of softwood. In this case it was simply a paint stir-stick (upper right). This was then run through the saw and the pieces separated and cleaned up, giving the 1/64" square section required for the frames (below).

Really wonderful, Druxey. In 100 years or so (and than I am very very old) I hope that I can also build my models so good.

Continuing the assembly of the stem..
 
I used temporarily spacers to fit the Knee of the Head, which is only 10'' thick, to the stem.


Next I shaped the Knee of the Head using the info David Antscherl gives in his books. After this I glued the completed assembly to the stem. Therfore I used brass pins and the earlier descriped spacer. At last I shaped the competed stem to the hopefully right thickness.






 
In the moment I work on the lower apron and the rising wood.

Today I've finished the drawing work for the frames. 55 frames and 26 cant frames are a lot stuff, which I have to build now.
 
The following picture shows frame 10a for example.
 

 
Now I have to clean up my work room and prepare the building board. I hope I've nothing forgotten so that I can make sawdust and start the build of my model

I've finished the "Disposition of Frames" drawing.
 

 
I am not quite happy with the position of the timberheads between station line 17 and 19. But this is the position I got from the As Built plan of the Fly.
 
Next I will built my building board and start with the model.

Today it rained all day, so I had enough time to finish the design of the cant frames





The Bollard Timbers and Hawse Pieces are missing to complete the planning of  framework.
The individual components and the frames I'll draw later during the build.

Next, the construction of the two-stage slipway is on the ToDo list, then I can lay down the keel for the model.

In the moment I am working on a corrected disposition of frames drawing for my sloop
The basis are
 
DOF of Cygnet (ZAZ4691) Dimensions given in "The Ship Builders Repository", 1788 (1) Dimensions given in Steel "The Element and Practice of Naval Architecture", 1805 (1) Antscherl TFFM, Volume 1  
(1) The dimensions I took from Allan Yedlinsky "Scantlings of Royal Navy Ships 1719-1805". The original books are unfortunately to expansive for my hobby budget.
 
The different timbers for the keel and the knee of the head, I took from David's book. I only adapt these to the other proportions.
 
After a lot of measurements in the DOF of Cygnet and comparing with the given dimensions, I decided to follow Steel. I am really surprised how well the frames fit to the original drawing. If you compare the numbers of the sweep ports with the original drawing, yo see that there is one port missing, because it was not shown on the As built drawing.
 

 
In the moment I am drawing the cant frames, which is much easier as by my second project.

Welcome on bord, Antony
 
The completion of the hull of my control model in the region behind the last frames has attracted much longer than expected.
When planning the last phase of the construction I realized that the body plan of the original drawing and therefore my reconstruction at the top of the last two frames is too narrow. So back to the drawing board and the frames 19 and 20 newly constructed. The hull at frames 20 is now about 1 mm wider in the region of maximum breath than originally. With the help of several buttok lines and the new water lines I have also redesigned the transoms

I haven't add all changes on the test hull, so you can see in the pictures the not entirely harmonious course of the lines.





The first step of my little project -the reconstruction of the lines- is complete.
In between, I have asked myself several times whether the construction of the half-model was even necessary. After the problems in the reconstruction of the transoms and fashion pieces, that define the shape of the stern, have identified, the construction of the test model was more than worth. I am happy to have the mistakes now and not found during the construction of the POF model.

In the next few weeks I'll construct keel, frames and all other components that are needed to build the hull. In autumn I like to start the construction of the POF model. Until then, one last picture which shows the side view of the test hull.
 

The transoms can not be derived directly from my reconstruction of the body plan.In the half breath plan of the orioginal drawing the form of each timber is indeed located, but does not fit properly on the corrected design. Before starting for the next step I have taken these lines and adjust them so that they match up with my design and also with the position of transoms in Sheer plan.
Subsequently the transoms were transferred to 3mm plywood, sawn and glued on the control model. I 've filles the gaps as usual with poplar plywood. After sanding the area looks like in the following pictures:
 

 

 

 
 

Thanks Johann, druxey, Mike and Nils for your nice comments and all others for the Likes
 
Next I've installed all bulkheads until frame 20 and the filling pieces.
 

 
Then my favourite pastime - sanding
 

 

Then I've started sanding the hull. I've used 60 grid until 120 grid sandpaper for the process. After around one week - I can only work on my model in the evening or at the weekends- I've finished the front half of my control model.
I am very happy with the result
 

 

 

 
To check the curves I use 1mm thick stripes of maple. The found differences are very small. So I think that my reconstruction will work for the checked range.
 

 

 

 

 

With the build of my control model I started at the end of March.

The edges of all frames I've colored black. This will be later a great help by sandig the hull.
The glued surface of the cant frames is very small, so I've glued first plywood stripes on the center board.
To get the correct alignment the colored 5' marks on the frames and the center board are a great help.
 

First half of frame 0
 
Six frames have been installed.
 

 
At this time I've started to glue the filling pieces of polar plywood between the frames. I've used a chess board pattern to avoid the distortion of the frames.


 
Until the mid of April I've installed all frames and filling pieces from the center to the stem on the stem.
The next two pictures show the result of the work. It's looking very horrible
 

 

To check the lines I started to build a half model. For the frames I use 3mm birch plywood, it's for a model in 1/32 perhaps a little small, but I've had a bigger batch at home. All space between the frames I fill with poplar plywood. It's easy to shape but stable enough for the purpose.
I glue the drawngs with rubber cement on the ply woord


 
With a sharp knife I mark every 5' line. The picture shows frame 0:
 

 
All bulkheades and the center are cutted out. The hull has a length of around 1m, which is not as big compared with the new 1/200 model kits of the WWII battle ships.
 

 

Part 1 Reconstruction of the hull lines
 
David Antscherl wrote in his wonderful series about th Swan Class Sloop, that there are a lot of smaller differences between the ships of the class, for example the knee of the head of Fly.
As first decision for my new start I decided not to use the general lines, which David has published. I want to do my own reconstruction. The naval cutter was a first exercise for this project. In January I started with the reconstruction. At the end of February I had a first version of my body plan, which matchs the lines of the historical drawing very well.
 

 

My Work Areas
 
     I'm very fortunate to have not one but two shop rooms in my condo to build my models.   The front room is where I do most of the construction and the back room is where I work when I'm making tons of wood dust.  Even with this back room I still need to move the Jet dust filter from the front shop when I start shaping the hull with the templates.
 
Front Shop
 

 
 
 
 
 
Back Shop
 

 
     When my next door neighbors decided to redo their kitchen I told them I could put their old cabinets to good use.
 

 
Above photo is a closeup of the sanding drum/thickness jig I made several years back.  It works quite well.
 
Den
 

 
     When I'm not in my shop I spend a lot of time in this room.

The Building Board
 
     Because I'm doing a bread and butter construction where I use templates to shape the hull it's imperative that surface is as flat as you can get it. Even the smallest deviations from flat can cause an error using the templates.  I know this to be true because in an earlier attempt I glued a new 1/2" thick piece of plywood on top of an old construction board and had problems.  My intentions were good but the board had slight undulations on the surface.  The board I'm using now is made from a really fine piece of 3/4" thick furniture grade plywood reinforced with two very straight and stable pieces of hardwood running the length of the table on the underside.  I applied several coats of polyurethane on both sides to seal the wood from moisture.   I then painted the top surface with three coats of a flat, light gray latex paint.   Afterwards the board surface was checked and rechecked to insure flatness.   The next step was to draw on the board with an ultra-fine point Sharpie pen the center line and all station lines, including the fore and aft perpendiculars.  Also I drew the station line numbers and letters.   I then made five pairs of keel blocks from Castelo boxwood.  After drilling holes in the building board I attached the blocks to it using bolts and wing nuts.  When you have to make a subtle adjustment to a keel block having wing nuts makes it so much easier to do.  The next step was to make the 2 extension supports from 1/2" furniture grade plywood.  They were glued and screwed together tightly; and later received 4 coats of polyurethane.  No more was done to the building board until the hull was to be mounted to it.  Only then could the exact height of the extension supports be determined.  The pictures below are of the finished building board. 
 

 
     The last photo shows the hull supports to be used when the temporary keel and extension arms are removed and the actual keel, stem, sternpost and cutwater are added.

PDF Templates
Print to size indicated in title and on image
 
The first file as a 36" x 60" PDF sheet is a 4.5Mb file
I tried compressing it but cannot get it below 3.5Mb which is still tool large for uploading
So I've uploaded a JPG file.
 
If anyone prefers the PDF please PM me with your personal e-mail address and I'll send it to you.
 
You still need to purchase the original HMS Elephant documents from NMM
image J2930 (lines), J2934 (framing) , J2938 (decks) and the Bellerophon build contract ADT009 for details.

 
EDITED: note the correction to be made to the station labels near the deadflat in this image below (Alan 16 AUG 2021)
 

 
(2) 36x48 STEM_STERN POST + KEEL.pdf
(3) 36x60 Stn H-AFT to Stemhead sh 1 of 2.pdf
(4) 36x60 Stn H-AFT to Stemhead sh 2 of 2.pdf
(5) 36x60 Stn 2-AFT to G-FWD sh 1 of 2.pdf
(6) 36x48 Stn 2-AFT to G-FWD sh 2 of 2.pdf
(7) 36x60 Stn 3 to 17 sh 1 of 2.pdf
(8) 36x60 Stn 3 to 17 sh 2 of 2.pdf
(9) 36x60 Stn 18 to STERN sh 1 of 3.pdf
(10) 36x60 Stn 18 to STERN sh 2 of 3.pdf
(11) 24X36 Stn 18 to Stern sh 3 of 3.pdf

14 February 2016 is a date worth marking on my calender.
 
The templates are done, checked, rechecked and checked again.
(I am sure errors will poke their ugly heads up at some unforgiving time)
They will be printed this week and the build begins (again).
 
There are 11 sheets (PDFs to be converted to smaller files and uploaded shortly).
 
The first thing to be made (next weekend) are two wooden combination 1:64 measuring scales or rulers if you prefer (see sheet 6 of 11 bottom left corner).
One is 64 feet (12 inches real life) and the other 32 feet (6 inches real life).
One side will be a standard scale layout where as the other side will be a centre measuring scale.
 
While measuring off the NMM drawings at 1/4 scale my old drafting scales were invaluable so these should become very helpful in the build.
 
So what have I learnt starting from a blank sheet, working though computer crashes and file losses, corrupted files and basically things that would make a real sailor swear up a storm?
I've learnt to realize what 1:64 scale means as opposed to drawing in CAD at full scale (1:1); I've learnt to relax measurements and thoughts; I've learnt patience (a most unnatural state for me); and I've reinforced my "never quit" attitude (Irish stubbornness?).
 
Of course I've also learnt there were many different ways to approach making the templates... but in the end "I did it my way".
 
I've also learnt that all the free eastern hemlock (fir) strapping I've collected from my son's home renovation to use in my build may not be the very best choice of wood for many parts of my build.  It is quite grainy and can be an concern.  This will be dealt with at a cost I hoped to avoid.  A good friend (I hope to have earned the privilege to refer to them as such) has given me a tremendous helping hand to start dealing with this concern.
 
... and so we begin.

Really wonderful, Druxey. In 100 years or so (and than I am very very old) I hope that I can also build my models so good.

Really wonderful, Druxey. In 100 years or so (and than I am very very old) I hope that I can also build my models so good.