AnobiumPunctatum

Thank you all very much.....got tired with the repetition of making cannon carriages today....soooo
 
 
I had prototype keel parts cut out for a while and they were staring at me.....so one project that is slowly getting started is a kit prototype for a Queen Anne style Admirals Barge or Shallop 1700ish.   I am testing some wood choices and here is a look at the keel assembly in cherry in comparison to the Cheerful for size...its 1:24 scale.
 

 

 
Now back to those carriages...sorry to digress but I had to get that out of my system ....it was bugging the heck out of me just looking at the parts sitting on the table.  
 
Chuck

Another pedestal has been completed and mounted on the bulkhead. They are proving to be difficult to hold on to when carving as I accidentally ran the tip of my left thumb into the blade of my Preac saw a few days ago. A dumb move for sure! Now that it is healing, I can churn these out a little faster. 
 

 
In the meantime I did fashion a couple of heads for the beak based on a keyhole design that allowed standup and seated use. I will mount these on the beak head after the side panels are fastened.
 

 
More to follow.................

Hi Niklas,
 
Very clean work. I take a seat and a glas of wine for me please.

Congrats for this beautyful model and thanks for your build log.
It was a great pleasure for me to follow your progress.

I finally completed the paddle wheels to the point I can start tying the drive train to the engine.  This week I was able to get most of the pittman/crosshead assembly done.  Just the feedwater pump and reach rods to finish before moving onto the boilers.
 
 
U-joints for the reach rods.

 

 
Crosshead slides.

 
Testing the fit of the crosshead and end of the pittman.

 

 

 
Pittman ends freshly milled.

 
 
Straps soldered to pittman ends.

 
Finished pittman strap with bearing, wedge and keys before blackening.

 

 
 
After blackening with bolts added.

 
Flywheel end of pittman.

 
Crosshead end of pittman.

 

 

 

Hello All,

I have started modeling again. It's not like I haven't had time. But have been wood working and bee box building. Having fun. But getting back to modeling now. I am getting back to my re-build of my Lady Kathrine, my Echo Cross Section, and now the Hannah. Been studying up on all the chapters Bob has supplied with the kit. It also included 2 cd's with very detailed pic's on the build. I am considering rigging the ship since I have all the info I need for the model. It will be given to my oldest daughter Victoria. The reason is simple. Her 2 very best friends are named Hannah.
I will be getting very detail on my progress, because that is just my way. It is to help others, plus if someone sees I am doing something wrong, Please let me know. I will be starting the build board tomorrow. I will not be posting pictures as regularly as I use to, because my spare time goes in different directions with 3 kids at home. But i will post a lot of pictures and explanations of my build progress.

Thanks for stopping by....

The roof of the coach has been completed and installed. As this is curved, a suitable strategy for building it is needed. I considered carving it from solid, but this would be difficult to keep a consistent thickness. I decided to cooper it, that is to say, build it up as one would a barrel. 
 
The first step was to carve a form to build it on. I hollowed a piece of basswood to the appropriate radius, which in this case was 3½" full size (first photo). It was then shaped to the shape of the roof and marked out for the six planks that are nominally 1' 0" (scale) wide. These were cut and shaped with a slight bevel on each edge. They were then glued up on the form. 
 
Once complete, two 'rafters' were glued on the underside to maintain shape and integrity. A piece of fine sandpaper was rubber cemented to the form and the upper side of the roof sanded (second and third photos). The outer side edges of the roof were sanded flat, to fit the coach top edges. 
 
Following the color used on Prince Frederick's barge, I painted the roof a blueish green to imitate a verdigris copper roof. On the actual barge, the roof appears to be covered with painted canvas. I used a mix of viridian green, some white and then toned down with the addition of a touch of black. The top of the capitals on the coach were also painted this color and the roof glued in place. 
 
Next is the decorative work at the stern.

Hi Niklas,
 
Very clean work. I take a seat and a glas of wine for me please.

And here a quick update. Having fun with my latest and favorite toy, the milling machine.

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 157 –Deadeye Chain Backing Plates
 
Each of the larger channel chains is bolted to the hull through a backing plate (or preventer plate) for additional support.  These larger chains anchor the chain deadeyes for the lower shrouds and topmast backstays.  Chains supporting lighter rigging have a single bolt and no backing.  These plates are about 3’ long and about 1” thick with bolt holes at each end.  They are bent in an offset to fit over the chains.  The chain fabrication will be covered later.
 
The first step in making the numerous required plates was to solder brass tubes to the edges of a brass plate.  This fabricated piece is shown in the first picture after pickling and buffing to remove oxide.
 

 
I used wire silver solder and black paste flux for this.  The tubes were held for soldering with pins.  I used a small oxy-propane torch on the first side, then running out of O2 used a larger propane torch on the other side.  I normally use a small propane torch but in this case the large joints benefited from the extra heat.
 
The individual backing plates were then sliced off this strip in the circular saw using a screw slotting blade.  They were sliced off slightly over thickness.  In the next step the plates were filed smooth on one side, then flipped and filed to final thickness on the other.  The next picture shows this being done with the aid of a holding fixture.
 

 
The fixture has two milled slots, one slightly deeper for the first filing, the second milled to the final thickness for final sizing.  Both sides were polished with abrasive sticks.  The next picture shows plates before and after filing.
 

 
Each plate was then bent as shown in the next picture to form the offset.
 

 
Finally, the plates were pickled in acetic acid (white vinegar), given a degreasing bath (TIVA®) and submerged in a very dilute solution of Birchwood Casey® blacking.  They are shown after drying below.
 

 
Around 50 of these are required, but quite a few extras were made to account for expected attrition at each step and shape issues.. 
 
Chain fabrication and the 16” deadeye itting will be covered in the next part.
 
Ed
 

Thank you all for the comments and Likes .
 
I've moved to the External Planking of the Port side, as one of the next steps on the inside is fitting the Port Liners which need to be done after the external planking goes on.
 
First up is the Wales, which are 4 1/2" thick (real size). The upper strake is parallel while the two lower strakes are in "Top and Butt" configuration. I've made them from Ebony.
 
The smudges on the wales are from water, as I'd just fitted them and cleaned off the excess glue. I've sanded a very slight bevel on the edges to make them stand out a bit better. The top and bottom strakes have a significant bevel where they meet up with the thinner strakes above and below :
 

 

 
  Danny

There are only two port covers.  The aft one is for the last cannon.  The covers are made of two layers of wood;  the interior is vertical and the exterior matches the run of planking.  The frieze was painted before the hinge straps were added.
 

 
The hinges were made of the pieces seen in the photograph and then silver soldered.  
 

 

 

 
There are eyebolts on the inner and outer faces of the gun port and three additional bolts.   The rigging will be added after the exterior hull is a little more complete to prevent damage.
 

 
The fore port cover is smaller and allows airflow to the fore part of the ship.  It is hinged on its fore side to prevent it from being blown open.  There is an eyebolt on the inside face.  It appears to be hanging lopsided.  This is an optical illusion caused by the curved shape of the hull.
 

 

 

Thanks Pat.
 
The Mainmast Partners on Vulture are rather unusual, being a wedge shape. There are four pieces to them :
 

 

 
The Pump tubes fitted :
 

 
  Danny

Congrats for this beautyful model and thanks for your build log.
It was a great pleasure for me to follow your progress.

Congrats for this beautyful model and thanks for your build log.
It was a great pleasure for me to follow your progress.

Congrats for this beautyful model and thanks for your build log.
It was a great pleasure for me to follow your progress.

My Cheerful is now complete. I have mounted the anchors, which was the last remaining work to be done. As I indicated earlier, I was having trouble coming up with a mounting plan with which I was happy. My solution, after reviewing photos of contemporary models, and trying out various configurations, was to mount the two anchors differently. On the congested port side, I chose to go with lashing the anchor to two timberheads, without a cable or cat block. On the more open starboard side, I went with the anchor hanging from the cat block, with a cable leading back to the windlass and being tied off to it, as shown on the Rogers collection model. 
 
I would like to take this opportunity to thank all of you on MSW who have followed this build and provided the kind of support, encouragement and friendship that we have come to expect from the members of this site. I also want to thank Chuck for coming up with this project and the products to support it. It has been one of the most enjoyable builds that I have done.
 
Attached are photos of the anchor installation and the  model's completion portraits.
 
For those interested, my next build will be the Caldercraft Granado. A full description of the reasons for the choice and my plans for the build will be set out in the log that I will be starting today in the kit build section ( how's that for a cheap ploy to get all of you to look at the new log      ).
 
Bob

Mark, Christian and Albert thank you for you comments.  Kurt, I agree.  I wish it was a little more portable.  Mine is wall-mounted.  When I was in training, these are the exact type of drill that we used to learn how to perform ear surgery.
 
A little more work got accomplished today.  The fore channel has been cut out and thinned towards the outer edge.  A rebate is cut into it for a strip of molding.  On the razor blade the profile is the second one from the right.  I wet the molding to navigate the bend in the channel and clamped it until dry.  
 

 
The chain plates are drawn in on the masking tape.  This allowed correct placement and angle of the notches in the channel.  Three knees prevent upward pull of the channel.  In the picture it looks like the channel is angled upwards.  It actually is parallel to the waterline.
 

Really wonderful work, Toni

Thanks once more for the likes and comments, everyone.
 
I had to re-do the side of the coach. I found that I had cut the lights to the wrong depth. In addition, the lights were uneven in width. So, a second round.
 
When dealing with tiny pieces, I've found it easiest to leave them over-length to glue them on (top photo). I then use a chisel to cut the pieces to exact length. The top and bottom pieces of the panel frame were cut a little overlength, then sanded using a sanding stick to trim them to exact dimension (second photo). 
 
The inner side of the piece has had card strips glued on to leave channels for the glazing (third photo). In this case I shall be using mica. This is a naturally occurring mineral that is fairly transparent. It can be peeled into very thin layers and cuts easily. The pieces will be slid into place from above before the roof is installed. The cutaway at the bottom of the side is because the hull curves inward here and this allows for the changing interior contour.
 
The last photo shows the work to this point. Next will be the inside panelling and the other side piece.

I've also made all the Gratings. Unlike the "store bought" gratings these are to the right scale. The athwartships pieces are a mere 3/4" thick (real size) which translates down to 0.38mm in 1:48 scale. All the pieces were cut and mortised using the Byrnes Table Saw and Micrometer Gauge :
 

 

 

 
I made a Jig to aid in assembly :
 

 

 

 
  Danny

Thanks again for all the input and the "likes".  One more attempt for review.  I've shortened the floors and first futtocks a bit and lengthened the other pieces and it seems to make more sense.  Once satisfied with the general proportions, I can then lay out new futtock lines on the body plan and proceed to the remaining square frames.  One step at a time.  On subsequent frames (every other one) the top extends about 20" higher to support bulwarks and the top rails.
Maury

Hello again,
 
a friend send me this picture of the now new restored Victory. Maybe they have seen my blog? 
 

 
This is my lobby 
 

 
Regards,
Siggi

Really wonderful work, Toni

Thanks again for all of you who are dropping in on this log.
 
Further progress sees the completion of the gunwale and its extension aft as a moulding. The aft section of gunwale is 1½" thick, rather than ¾". You can see the step up forward of the cabin area. The moulding section was wet-formed on the plug (lowest photo), then painted and applied to the model. It has a C-curve in one plane and an S-curve in the other.
 
It was necessary to complete the gunwale before proceeding with the coach sides. I'm now cutting and fitting card pattern pieces for the coach sides.