AnobiumPunctatum

Having a solid wall of timber is probably not the best idea, as I found out on my Speedwell model, Mike. There are gaps between the fillers in the winter. I have filled them with sawdust and glue and they have appeared elsewhere. They'll probably disappear as the humidity rises, as you perdict.
 
I am reminded of the problem Franklin had when building his beautiful model Egmont (which was purchased by the NMM). He noted that his hull shrank almost 1/4" after framing as the humidity decreased. He applied a wet towel overnight and the length of the hull was the full 1/4" longer the following day. He then applied the wales and the problem was solved.
 
if there's one thing I learned after watching This Old House for 30+ years is that wood is a living material that expands and contracts. One must always compensate for this (although I'm not quite sure how this could be done with a full set of filler frames unless the model was kept in an environment with consistant humidity forever).

Mike, you don't missinterpret AotS.
 
If I look on your last picture (plan copy) I think that the replica will be build as French ships would built. The deadwood and the only use of double frames looks like it was drawn in the book "The 74gun ship" by Boudriot. As fas as I know -but in the forum are a lot of people which have more experience with American ship building- it is common that American ship would built in French and English tradition.

Another photos 
 

 

 

 

The building board for my model is finished. I use a design really similiar to that what Ed has shown in chapter 4 of his HMS Naiad build log.
 
For my building board I used 12mm birch plywood. The base board has a size of 120 x 50 cm. For the supporting bars I've chosen a height of 10 cm.

 
On the baseboard I screwed 4 boards from 6mm birch plywood to fix two aluminum rails because I don't have a mill to cut the gap for these. For the centerline I inked one longitudinal edge of the middle plates with black acrylic paint. After brushing the surface with white acrylic paint the center line was made visible with a scalpel blade that was dragged along the edge.

Hello all,
Thank you for your comments and likes.
I wish to you all a Merry Christmas and Happy New Year!
 
Santa was generous with me this year, I've got two very lovely books (first two pictures) - and now I am taking my time reading them slowly. 
 
Here is another update for my build - last one this year. The easy part is completed, the decorative mouldings and sculptures around those windows still to be done. I will give it a try... next year.
 
Regards,
Alexandru
 
 

Thank you, both and thanks for the likes.
 
Ian, the nice thing about using CAD in this case is that the piece can be drafted at full 1:1 "world" scale.  All of the dimensions can be taken digitally from this drawing and converted to 1000ths in model scale for the machining.  This is all much too tiny to be hand drafted to get these dimensions - without a very large board and lots of paper.  When the eyes get too feeble to see this stuff the calibration wheels come in handy.
 
Just be sure the CAD software allows you to work in 1:1 scale - then print to whatever smaller scale you need.
 
Ed

Continuation.
 
 

 
 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 
 
 
The beginning of the relation is available at this address:
 
 
http://5500.forumact...ndre-1-24#66516
 
 
 
Regards, Paul

The next items to make are the windows themselves.  Since these are not structural I made them simply by edge gluing rather than finger jointing the stiles and rails.  Also, the mullions are not half-lapped but are simply edge glued as well.  The glass is mica.  I was very surprised how well the glue adheres to the mica.  The first picture shows the sequence of construction.  First a template is made of the window opening.  The stiles and rails are glued to the template.  The mullions are then added.  The template is peeled off the framework and mica is put in place.  Finally, the inner frame and mullions are added.  The center opening was not glazed as it looks directly into the back of the rudder trunk.
 

 
The windows are glued in place. The small gaps will be hidden under the munions and decorative moldings.  The discoloration of the wood of the upper and lower counter is from internal finish seeping out between the planks.  This will not be a problem after the external structure has a coat of finish.
 

 

 
The munions are trim boards between the windows which hide all of the internal structural components.  External to this, the plans show a column with acanthus leaves.  I cannot tell from the plans whether the leaves are carved or painted.  This will be added when the rest of the stern is completed.  One of the central munions is not the same shape as the other five.  After careful consideration and a few choice words I determined that the only way to correct the problem would be to rebuild the entire stern.  And that wasn't going to happen!  It looks worse in the photo than in real life.  Once the decorative trims and columns are added I do not think it will be very visible (except to me).
 
These windows open inwards.  There is a quarter round sill which acts as a stop to prevent the window from opening outward.  
 

Finally after a one year, the basic structure of the upper deck is finished. I never realised I was that slow building my ship :-)
 
I don't plan to add more ledges between the carlings so there is a better view at the lower decks. Cutting the mortice in the wing transom was a bit tricky, especially as they had to be right the first time.
 
Time to add tome more bits to the deck.
 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Remco
 
 

Part 1 Reconstruction of the hull lines
 
David Antscherl wrote in his wonderful series about th Swan Class Sloop, that there are a lot of smaller differences between the ships of the class, for example the knee of the head of Fly.
As first decision for my new start I decided not to use the general lines, which David has published. I want to do my own reconstruction. The naval cutter was a first exercise for this project. In January I started with the reconstruction. At the end of February I had a first version of my body plan, which matchs the lines of the historical drawing very well.
 

 

Welcome to MSW. I will follow your log with interest.

Well the 'knitting' is now done with all ratlines finished   That is milestone completed and another started with a good start made on the jib and spritsail yards.
 
   
 
cheers
 
Pat
 
 

Continuation.
 
 

 
 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
The beginning of the relation is available at this address:
 
 
http://5500.forumact...ndre-1-24#66516
 
 
 
Regards, Paul

First, a very happy and healthy New Year to all, and one filled with modelling pleasure.
 
Now, for my first update of the New Year. I have made and mounted the rudder. The rudder itself is from Chuck's laser cut framing set, shaped with sanding sticks. After some indecision, I chose to paint the top portion of the rudder red to match the previously done stern post extension piece. I did , however decide to leave the tiller natural wood. The tiller was cut from boxwood sheet using a glued on copy of the plan as a template. The cutout wood blank was shaped with files and sanding sticks.
 
Since I don't like working with metal, I chose to do the iron work in black painted paper, with wire used for the actual mounting. This included the pintels and gudgeons and the bands at the rudder head. It doesn't show well (if at all) in my photos, but there are bolt heads, made from tiny pin heads drilled and inserted in the pintels and gudgeons.
 
With this work completed, it is my intention to work from the stern forward on the interior detailing. The first task will be to make, install and rig the first four guns at the aft end.
 
Bob
 
 

The building board for my model is finished. I use a design really similiar to that what Ed has shown in chapter 4 of his HMS Naiad build log.
 
For my building board I used 12mm birch plywood. The base board has a size of 120 x 50 cm. For the supporting bars I've chosen a height of 10 cm.

 
On the baseboard I screwed 4 boards from 6mm birch plywood to fix two aluminum rails because I don't have a mill to cut the gap for these. For the centerline I inked one longitudinal edge of the middle plates with black acrylic paint. After brushing the surface with white acrylic paint the center line was made visible with a scalpel blade that was dragged along the edge.

The building board for my model is finished. I use a design really similiar to that what Ed has shown in chapter 4 of his HMS Naiad build log.
 
For my building board I used 12mm birch plywood. The base board has a size of 120 x 50 cm. For the supporting bars I've chosen a height of 10 cm.

 
On the baseboard I screwed 4 boards from 6mm birch plywood to fix two aluminum rails because I don't have a mill to cut the gap for these. For the centerline I inked one longitudinal edge of the middle plates with black acrylic paint. After brushing the surface with white acrylic paint the center line was made visible with a scalpel blade that was dragged along the edge.

Really nice progress

Thanks Johann, druxey, Mike and Nils for your nice comments and all others for the Likes
 
Next I've installed all bulkheads until frame 20 and the filling pieces.
 

 
Then my favourite pastime - sanding
 

 

The building board for my model is finished. I use a design really similiar to that what Ed has shown in chapter 4 of his HMS Naiad build log.
 
For my building board I used 12mm birch plywood. The base board has a size of 120 x 50 cm. For the supporting bars I've chosen a height of 10 cm.

 
On the baseboard I screwed 4 boards from 6mm birch plywood to fix two aluminum rails because I don't have a mill to cut the gap for these. For the centerline I inked one longitudinal edge of the middle plates with black acrylic paint. After brushing the surface with white acrylic paint the center line was made visible with a scalpel blade that was dragged along the edge.

The building board for my model is finished. I use a design really similiar to that what Ed has shown in chapter 4 of his HMS Naiad build log.
 
For my building board I used 12mm birch plywood. The base board has a size of 120 x 50 cm. For the supporting bars I've chosen a height of 10 cm.

 
On the baseboard I screwed 4 boards from 6mm birch plywood to fix two aluminum rails because I don't have a mill to cut the gap for these. For the centerline I inked one longitudinal edge of the middle plates with black acrylic paint. After brushing the surface with white acrylic paint the center line was made visible with a scalpel blade that was dragged along the edge.

The building board for my model is finished. I use a design really similiar to that what Ed has shown in chapter 4 of his HMS Naiad build log.
 
For my building board I used 12mm birch plywood. The base board has a size of 120 x 50 cm. For the supporting bars I've chosen a height of 10 cm.

 
On the baseboard I screwed 4 boards from 6mm birch plywood to fix two aluminum rails because I don't have a mill to cut the gap for these. For the centerline I inked one longitudinal edge of the middle plates with black acrylic paint. After brushing the surface with white acrylic paint the center line was made visible with a scalpel blade that was dragged along the edge.

The building board for my model is finished. I use a design really similiar to that what Ed has shown in chapter 4 of his HMS Naiad build log.
 
For my building board I used 12mm birch plywood. The base board has a size of 120 x 50 cm. For the supporting bars I've chosen a height of 10 cm.

 
On the baseboard I screwed 4 boards from 6mm birch plywood to fix two aluminum rails because I don't have a mill to cut the gap for these. For the centerline I inked one longitudinal edge of the middle plates with black acrylic paint. After brushing the surface with white acrylic paint the center line was made visible with a scalpel blade that was dragged along the edge.

Mike, you don't missinterpret AotS.
 
If I look on your last picture (plan copy) I think that the replica will be build as French ships would built. The deadwood and the only use of double frames looks like it was drawn in the book "The 74gun ship" by Boudriot. As fas as I know -but in the forum are a lot of people which have more experience with American ship building- it is common that American ship would built in French and English tradition.

The building board for my model is finished. I use a design really similiar to that what Ed has shown in chapter 4 of his HMS Naiad build log.
 
For my building board I used 12mm birch plywood. The base board has a size of 120 x 50 cm. For the supporting bars I've chosen a height of 10 cm.

 
On the baseboard I screwed 4 boards from 6mm birch plywood to fix two aluminum rails because I don't have a mill to cut the gap for these. For the centerline I inked one longitudinal edge of the middle plates with black acrylic paint. After brushing the surface with white acrylic paint the center line was made visible with a scalpel blade that was dragged along the edge.

The building board for my model is finished. I use a design really similiar to that what Ed has shown in chapter 4 of his HMS Naiad build log.
 
For my building board I used 12mm birch plywood. The base board has a size of 120 x 50 cm. For the supporting bars I've chosen a height of 10 cm.

 
On the baseboard I screwed 4 boards from 6mm birch plywood to fix two aluminum rails because I don't have a mill to cut the gap for these. For the centerline I inked one longitudinal edge of the middle plates with black acrylic paint. After brushing the surface with white acrylic paint the center line was made visible with a scalpel blade that was dragged along the edge.