AnobiumPunctatum

Great, really great.

It's allways fascinating to follow your logs. I've learned a lot fromin the past years. Thanks

Young America 1853 – POB 1:96
Part 20 – Knightheads
 
The knightheads reinforced the stem on either side and provided a base for securing the hawse timbers that formed the forward hull back to the first cant frames.  This detail is shown in the posts for the full framed version of the model.  Rising above the top of the sides, the knightheads also provided lateral support to the bowsprit.  To accommodate the 36” square section of the bowsprit, additional space was provided between knightheads by additional members, 10” thick stem timbers, bolted to the sides of the stem assembly.  The two 10” stem timbers astride the 16” thick stem provided the necessary 36” spacing for the bowsprit.
 
On the POB model only the upper parts of the knightheads and stem timbers were modeled.  In the first picture their patterns have been pasted to the correct size stock.
 

 
As with all of the stock for this demonstration model, ¾” wood was used, allowing all the thicknesses to be cut on a good model circular saw.   This was done to allow the model to be made from readily available stock without the need for a thickness sander/planer – a rather expensive tool and not one that beginning scratch builders might have.  In the next picture the members have been cut out and given an initial bevel based on the pattern lines.
 

 
These were cut from hard maple.  The knightheads will be exposed on the model but painted black.  The members to the right are shown in their relative positions.  In the next picture the starboard head timber is being fitted into the space between the stem and the most forward bulkhead.
 

 
To prepare for this, the pine spacers forward of the first bulkhead were removed by sawing and paring with a straight chisel.  These spacers had been installed to protect the forward bulkhead during initial rough fairing of the hull. 
 
In the next picture the breadth across the installed head timbers is being checked for the eventual fit of the bowsprit.
 

 
At 1:96 the breadth needs to be 3/8”.  This precise breadth was obtained by sanding the sides of the members after they were glued in.  In the next picture the port knighthead is being glued into place.
 

 
With both knightheads firmly secured they could be faired into the stem rabbet.  In the next picture a gouge is being used for this.
 

 
With the shape roughed out with the gouge, a curved rasp was used to refine it – as shown below - followed by 120-grit sandpaper.
 

 
With the knightheads in place and faired, the topside planking could begin.
 
Ed

It's allways fascinating to follow your logs. I've learned a lot fromin the past years. Thanks

Great, really great.

Mortar Barrel continued....
 
Once the barrel had been bored, it was time to part off the workpiece to its final length and shape the base end.  A mandrel was then turned down from some aluminium bar stock, so that it was an easy slide fit in to the barrel, and this was then drilled with a 3/32” end mill, using the same set-up on the Mill as previously.  The mandrel was then placed inside the barrel and a securing pin of 3/32” brass rod was inserted to hold the mandrel securely in place. The pin was a tight push fit, which made the whole assembly quite secure.
 

 
Now it was time to break out the “secret weapon”.  The base of the Mortar Barrel is a hemisphere in shape.  I’d been pondering how to achieve this, when I discovered that Sherline make a “Radius Turning Attachment” for exactly this purpose.  Happy days – a solution to my quandary AND a new accessory!     
 
Here is a picture of the setup, showing the mortar barrel being held in a 3-jaw self-centring chuck by the temporary mandrel.  The radius turning tool is mounted on the cross slide and is quick and easy to set-up and to use.  In this picture, I’ve already started to shape the end, having taken the first couple of passes with the tool.
 

 
A few minutes later and voilà, a perfect hemisphere:
 

 
Prior to commencing to use the radius turning tool, I had used a small centre drill to mark the centre of the end of the base.  Once the radius had been turned, a 3/16” end mill was inserted in the tailstock, and a hole drilled to a depth of 5/16” – the reason will become clear shortly.
 
With this hole drilled, the workpiece was again moved across, with the chuck, onto the rotary table on the Mill, this time mounted in the horizontal position.  The 3/16” end mill was transferred to the Mill and the previously bored hole was used to index the mill table into alignment. The pin in the mandrel was used as a guide to align the barrel such that a slot could now be cut at 90-degrees to the pin. In the following picture, the slot has already been cut to the depth of the previously bored hole (ie 5/16”).
 

 
The base of the mortar barrel is an interesting configuration, and includes the trunnion bar that also blends into the mortar barrel body.  I elected to make this in two pieces, both from 3/16” square stock. The first piece would carry a trapezoid shape to blend into the barrel body, while the second piece would have its end turned into a cylindrical shape to form the trunnions.  Sounds complex, but was really quite easy.  A piece of 1/4" square stock was first re-sized to 3/16” square using the Brynes disc sander. The trapezoid shape was also achieved using the disc sander, while the trunnion bar was simply turned down on each end in the lathe.  Here is a picture of the components prior to assembly:
 

 
The pieces were then assembled and the mandrel and locating pin removed. The hole from the locating pin was filled by a mixture of PVA glue and some of those ebony shavings saved from the first part of the process.  Two handles were made by bending a piece of 1/32” brass wire, chemically blackened and epoxied in place.  Here is the final product prior to receiving a coat of Wipe-On Poly:
 

 
 
And here it is with a “test” fit to the Turntable:
 

 
The completed assembly was given a coat of Wipe-On Poly, and then posed in the firing position for a few final photos (the poly is not yet dry here, hence the slight sheen):
 

 

 
 

 
All in all, I’m well pleased with the way this turned out.  Time spent up front measuring and working out the workflow process was well invested, as was the money spent on the radius turning attachment.  Amazingly, there were no re-dos in the entire process!     Next up – the 4-pounder guns and carriages. 

Great, really great.

Great, really great.

Lower hull planking progresses. Chuck says that Cheerful can be planked without spiling by edge bending the planks (and has proved it beautifully on his own model). Well, so far, so good. I have now done the upper belt of the port side lower planking. While it doesn't look anywhere as good as Chuck's, I'm reasonably satisfied. 
 
Each plank was first tapered, then bent, then edge beveled where necessary for a tight fit. I followed the butt pattern shown in the plans.I must admit that it's hard to teach an old dog new tricks, and I went back to my old methods of plank bending, using water and heat, rather than the method used and shown by Chuck. In any event, it's now on to the same work on the starboard side.
 
Bob 

Young America 1853 – POB 1:96
Part 19 – Planksheer
 
In the angle between the toptimbers and main deck beams, a massive 12” x 11” waterway was fit to reinforce the deck beam connections to the frames and to provide a watertight seal around the outer deck planking.  The planksheer was a large member that fit directly on top of the waterway and enclosed the toptimbers.  It provided a watertight cap over the hull frames, waterway and outboard planking.  It was wide enough to show as a molded rail both outboard and inboard.  It was either mortised to fit down over the toptimbers or, more likely, made in two parts that were notched to fit both inside and outside, then bolted through horizontally.  On the model, I installed the planksheer as spacers between the toptimbers capped by rails inside and out.
 
Since the planksheer rests on the waterway which in turn rests on the deck beams, I believe the height of the planksheer is most accurately set by fitting the inboard rail first.  The height was set using a temporary pine spacer cut to the depth of the waterway.  This is shown in the first picture.
 

 
Why not install the waterway first, then the planksheer?  If the model is to be painted, the waterway will be painted blue, the inboard works, including the adjoining inboard planksheer rail white.  To avoid having to cut in sharp paint lines after construction, I wanted to paint the white then install the pre-painted blue waterway below it.  The natural finish decking would later be installed against the blue waterway. The sequence to accommodate painting is also described in the posts for the 1:72 framed model – as well as in detailed in the book.  The inside rails were molded using a scraper and cut to size as described for the larger version.
 
With the inside planksheer rail glued in place to the toptimbers, spacers between toptimbers were cut and fitted – glued to the outboard face of the inner rail and end glued between toptimbers.  In the next picture, these spacers have been installed and their outer edges are being faired to the outside of the frames.
 

 
In the next picture the tops of the spacers are being filed flush with the top of the inside rail.  The upper face of the rail is horizontal in the athwartship direction.
 

 
Before the outer part of the planksheer or any exterior planking could be installed, it was necessary to fit the knightheads.  I will describe that work in the next part.
 
Ed

Slowly progressing.
 
Some special knees half way down the hull
 

 
And the progress to date
 

 
The pump well I had made years ago got a bit beaten up in storage. As I also was not very happy with some of the dimension of the stock I used I decided to make a new one. 
 

 
I made a jig to make accurate cuts for the dado's on the stanchions, it's hard to see but at the far side where the blade cuts is a thin strip of wood the width of the blade to mak each cut at the same distance.
 

 
The finished stanchions, the vertical dado's were milled.
 

 
Remco

Hello friends.
The residual frames built in, aligned and sanded
into the required shape of the hull.
 
Karl
 
 
Teil 4
 
 
 

Hello,
 
it is done, the last cannons are ready. Six at all. But before I could install them, I have to build all the knees for the deck beams and they are so tiny here 
 

 

 

 
Regards,
Siggi

I've finished the "Disposition of Frames" drawing.
 

 
I am not quite happy with the position of the timberheads between station line 17 and 19. But this is the position I got from the As Built plan of the Fly.
 
Next I will built my building board and start with the model.

BUILDING A BOARD
 
My most recent sub-project has involved constructing a “building board,” essential for accurately aligning the bulkheads with the false keel of my model. The board needs to keep the false keel perfectly straight and perpendicular, while providing a flat surface for gluing the bulkheads at right angles to the keel.
 
I started the board by cutting a 1/4“ groove into a 32" long piece of MDF sheet. The groove is just slightly deeper than the false keel on the model, providing a full view of the rabbet, and fits tightly so that the keel remains perfectly straight.
 

Marking the groove on the MDF sheet. The board is 12" x 32 ".
 

I cut the groove into the board with a table saw. MDF is brittle, so care is needed at this stage. 
 
The stern and stem of the model also needed to be kept perpendicular to the board. To achieve this, I designed two supports, one for the stern and one for the stem, which would slot into the building board groove.  I used a laser cutter to make these from 1/4” MDF sheet; they fit together somewhat like a piece of Ikea furniture.
 

My custom plans for the stem and stern supports. The idea for the interlocking pieces came from children's toys.
 

Cutting the pieces from 1/4 " MDF. My local library provides a 60 watt laser cutter for public
use. 
 

The pieces after cutting.
 

The finished supports (stem on left, stern on right).
 

It's hard to see, but the support has a rail designed to fit into the groove for proper alignment. 
 

The supports were glued into place, and their alignment was double-checked with a square.
 

I lined the groove with painter's masking tape to prevent damage to the model's keel. 
 

I lined the supports with masking tape as well. 
 

The finished building board.
 

Instead of using set screws, which might damage the model, I used rubber bands to secure
the model in place. In practice, the fit was tight enough that rubber bands weren't really
necessary. 
 

The bulkheads fit tightly and relatively squarely, but it was necessary to use a carpenter's square to 
ensure that they were at perfect right angles to the keel. These stainless steel squares from
Lee Valley were perfect for the task.  
 

The second-to-last last bulkhead is put in place. 
 

The completed superstructure. It's hard to see here, but two of the forward stations have
alignment issues at the area of the chock channels and bulwarks and will need to be
sanded and/or modified with  trim.  I double checked the plans, and the errors, around
1.5 mm off, seem to have crept in from my original measurements. These errors weren't
large enough to force me to re-cut the stations. 
 

I'm quite happy with the alignment (the stern looks slightly twisted here, but it's
just a trick caused by the camera angle). 
 

Midships bulkheads at the position of the rabbet.
 

A view of the bottom of the ship. Again, I'm quite pleased with the alignment
(the stem and stern are still little wobbly and will need some filling blocks).
 

Mini-Crozer stands on his deck. It's been a long time. 
 

Mini-Crozier inspects the stern, noting that work is needed on the bearding line.
Though Terror was small by Royal Navy standards, a 102 foot ship was still a
substantial vessel, as this image indicates.
 

Mini-Crozier stands at the Captain's sacred spot on the quarterdeck.  
 
Now that the bulkhead of the model is finally assembled, I can move towards planking it. A significant amount of fairing is necessary, and I hope to finish that shortly. Meanwhile, I've almost completed the "Phillips' Patent Capstan", and I hope to reveal my plans and model here soon. 
 
P.S. If you are interested in some new cabin accommodation plans for the lower deck, please see my blog (in my signature).

WASHINGTON GALLEY PART 6........FIRST FRAME IS RAISED!!!!
 
HI ALL
HAVING MADE THE LAST HALF FRAME AFT I DECIDED IT WAS PERHAPS WISE TO RAISE THIS FRAME FIRST
THE SINGLE AFT CANT FRAMES LEADING EDGE BUTTS UP AGAINST THE REAR FACE OF THIS FRAME SO IT MAKES SENSE.
 
I CAN THE WORK TOWARDS MIDSHIPS WITH THE REST OF THE AFT HALF FRAMES. I MAY THEN SWITCH MY ATTENTION TO THE FORWARD CANT AND HALF FRAMES AND THE DREADED HAWSE PIECES.
 
MIDSHIPS FRAMES ARE FROM ( 6 FRAMES FORWARD OF DEADFLAT AND 6 FRAMES AFT OF DEADFLAT) ALL THE SAME BASIC SHAPE WITH NO BEVEL. THE HEIGHTS ARE SLIGHTLY DIFFERENT,TO ACCOUNT FOR THE SHEER,AND SOME HAVE RECESSES FOR THE GUNPORT SILLS AND SWEEP PORTS.......BATCH PRODUCTION TIME!
 
SO THATS WHERE I AM AT THE MOMENT.....TIME FOR A CELEBRATORY SNIFTER
 
PHOTOS OF THE FRAME RAISING FOR YOUR DELICTATION
 
CHEERS........MICK
 
 

I held off on fabricating the brake pumps because of their fragility and small size.  I know I will lose them so they will be made when I am ready to install them.  My approach to the rhodings is not quite prototypical.  Because they are black and the axletree is also black, detail is difficult to see, so I went for ease of construction.  The rhoding on the main jeer bitt is a simple brass strap that has been cinched around the axletree and glued to the bitt.  There is a spacer block between the main topsail sheet bitt and the rhoding.  The spacer block is wood that has been shaped and painted black.  The rhoding is another brass strap.  I have drilled the bitt to represent the bolts holding the spacer block/rhoding assembly.  In the picture these have not been blackened yet.
 

 

 
I put together another short length of chain and inserted it into the port pump tube.
 

 
There are two athwartship bulkheads aft.  So far, everything on the starboard side has been left open to highlight the structure.  I am changing course and building the bulkheads port and starboard.  I am toying with the idea of furnishing these cabins.  First, stubs of deck planking are laid to support the bulkhead. Then, card templates are made.  The bulkhead will be made sandwich fashion, with outer wood planking and a "meat" of template. There is a big color difference between the old and new planking.  All this planking came from the same sheet of holly.  The rest of the planking was installed in July, 2014 (page 29 of this log).  Since I will not be  permanently installing the bulkheads for some months, hopefully the colors will blend together.
 

 

 

 
 

Mick, thanks for your explanations.

Mick, thanks for your explanations.

Congrats Ed. The book would be a nice Christmas gift

Thank you all for the comments and likes.
 
 
Greg, the planks are 5mm by 1.5mm.
 
Here is another update.
 
Alexandru
 
 

Here is the continuation of my report is to build the chaloupe:
 
The rudder for the sloop I made of two parts, as in the original.
The fittings I make of brass.
The rudder was designed to insert and remove, for example, when the boat
was stowed on the ship.
 
Please look to the images.
I hope that they like.

 

 

 

Hi Christian
Nice to hear my heath Robinson contraption is of some help!
The jig in the picture is mk3. Absolute accuracy is a must otherwise a tinyfraction of an inch or millimetre out leads to a cumulative error. The piece of brass I used as a key was 1/32 x 1\4 a stock price from k& s metals range. The milling cutter was an imperial size of 1\4 inch. All this was specific to this model.....so I would have to make another jig for a different model. The crucial thing was getting the distance from the brass key to the edge of the milling cutter at exactly 9/64 inch.
Once this is done its a quick process to run of a length of moulding.
I hope this makes sense.
Obviously you would have to adapt your measurements to suit.
Cheers....mick

Really intersting jig for the milling job, Mick.
I'll cover your idea for my build. Thanks

Really nice work, Tony