AnobiumPunctatum

Jürgen,
 
what kind of timber do you use for the planking? The contrast to the darker swiss pear looks really great

Continuation.
 
 
6mm X 15 mm
 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 
The beginning of the relationship is available at this address:
 
 
http://5500.forumact...ndre-1-24#66516
 
Regards, Paul

Lee,
 
last year as I started with the project, I had the same idea. But I had problems to match the dimensions he has given in the first part of the book with the drawings. At this point I started to use a simplified frame model. Then I started my build but was not happy.
His line drawing differs from the original drawing which you can find on the NMM Homepage. And I couldn't find the reasons.
 
In September I bought the original drawing and started again ... the rest of the story you know. Meanwhile it makes a lot of fun to search and compare the different original drawings. I think I will do the same steps on the next models I like to build also.
 
There is also nothing wrong with your approach. I will follow your log with great interest.

I thought it was about time for an update.  As I explained in my Syren thread, I am learning how to use tools and that is considerably extending the amount of time it takes to perform even simple tasks.  But, I am sure having fun.
 
In order to better work on the frame parts I made the following jig for my micro mill.
 

 
It works great at keeping the room almost sawdust free.
 
Also wanted to increase safety on the table saw 
 

 
And this not only increases safety but also increases the precision of the cuts.
 
Ok, here is where I am to date
 

 

This was next sanded using my proxxon disk sander and the new drum sander. Of course I forgot to take a picture of it finished :-)
I know the lines are already colored blue but wanted to make sure I could identify it if the sanding took out the lines... it didn't.
 
 

 
I had to rework a few of the frames.  Some were skills issues.  A a couple seemed to be poor basswood.  I bought some 3/16 from hobby lobby and a couple of the pieces felt wrong... spongy, but I tried them anyway. 
 
I am practicing this first build in basswood because it is cheap and available.  I have some pear and boxwood planks coming that I can size on my "soon to arrive" Byrnes Thickness Sander.  
 
I may just go ahead and consider the basswood frames as skill building and if it all fits nicely on the keel go back and rebuild using the boxwood or pear. Not sure yet.
 
I did not think I would want to have two builds going at once, but it is nice to take breaks from one to work on the other.  Kinda re-energizes you.  
 
Oh, by the way, is there a top down plan for the Cross section?  I'd like to put it down and use it to guide the assembly. I did not see one in the downloads.
 
and so it goes...
 
Richard

Forward cant frame and hawse pieces.
 
After all the square frames were joined with glue to the keel assembly, forward cant half frames and hawse pieces were glued. It was also not clear, there is no sign of scoring or mortising on the apron at the plan of Goodwin, I glued cant frames directly on the forward apron. The feet of them were matched to just above the rabbet line. Now, I'm going to aft.

Mark,
 
I wish yo a lot of fun with your beast. I'll follow your log with great interest.

Lee,
 
last year as I started with the project, I had the same idea. But I had problems to match the dimensions he has given in the first part of the book with the drawings. At this point I started to use a simplified frame model. Then I started my build but was not happy.
His line drawing differs from the original drawing which you can find on the NMM Homepage. And I couldn't find the reasons.
 
In September I bought the original drawing and started again ... the rest of the story you know. Meanwhile it makes a lot of fun to search and compare the different original drawings. I think I will do the same steps on the next models I like to build also.
 
There is also nothing wrong with your approach. I will follow your log with great interest.

I was unhappy about the thread color and the stark contrast for the crowsfeet, so I'm re-doing them with black line :
 

 
This is not entirely accurate, as to the best of my knowledge they weren't tarred, but the visual aspect is far better.
 
  Danny

Hello, the next step is done and the Main Wale is fitted.
I had I little mistake nearing completion. The following photo should be a little help to declare it.

For fitting the last ledge of the Main Wale it was necessary to sanding the outside of the side counter timber at starboard side (blue arrow). But there wasn't enough material, the part was to small at this point (yellow x) . I had to many material removed at the inner side (red arrow).
The exchange of the part seems like too much effort to me. So I decided to glue a piece of wood to the counter and sanded it down. I believe that must be alright on the finished model.



 
And now some photos of the Main Wale. It's still to do a bit sanding on the port side.

 
 

Square frames
 
All the parts of frame were cut out from pear boards of three different thickness and glued to the square frames. After glued joints dried, all the frames were roughly trimmed and beveled to the final shape. Smoothing the inner and outer surfaces will be done after they are joined with keel.
 
As shown on Goodwin's framing plans, most of 2nd futtocks and top timbers are shifted from lower timbers. I don't know this unique design of frame is the same as that of original ship. Though building frame of this design seems to be very tough, it is very attractive point especially for this small scale.
 
Following pics show the progress of work. In these pics, frames are not glued yet but inserted to rising wood of the keel assembly.
 
LEE

I added the first two strakes below the wales.  This was to get the drop plank out of the way.  The drop plank was shaped from a piece of card stock first just to get the hang of it.  After I was satisfied that it fit OK I  cut the real ones from wide stock the same thickness as the planking.  They were pre shaped as you can see.  You can also see my pencil on the edge to simulate the tarred seams. Now I will line off the remainder of the hull into two belts and finish the planking.  I also painted the first of many layers of red paint on the counter at the stern.
 
Chuck
 

 

 

 

 

I have decided to use a finish that will not yellow the holly.  In TFFM David mentions a solvent-based sealer for his finish.  For those of you who own his Comet book or have seen the photos, that is the look I am trying to achieve.  The bottle of solvent-based sanding sealer I have was quite a few years old so I purchased some from Midwest Models, as well as a bottle of flat finish.  I have not decided whether to stick with just the sealer or put a coat of finish on as well.  The pictures are taken after two coats of sealer, the first sanded down to 320 grit and the second sanded to 400.  Later this week I will test applying a coat of the finish on some scrap wood.  One of the nice things about the sealer is that the drying time is very fast but as this is solvent based the smell is pretty strong.  Unlike a oil based finish, the odor dissipates quickly.
 

 

 

 

 

 

Thanks, everyone for the comments and the likes.  I have finished the treenails.     I estimate that the whole process consumed about 25 hours of my life.  So my ugly duckling is now in the process of becoming a swan (class).  Sorry, couldn't help it.  I removed the hull from the board for the sanding process.  I find it easier to sand a curved object while holding it in my lap.  This gives me easier access to the various rabbets and the intersection with the wing transom.  In the process, despite using masking tape, the main wale has gotten fairly scuffed up and will require another coat of paint.  In the pictures the hull has been sanded down with 100 grit.  The treenails are hard to see because no finish has been applied yet.
 

 

 

 

 

Karl,
 
as allways absolut fantastic. In a very far future I hope I can build my models nearly accurate than you.

Your anchors are looking really realistic.

Karl,
 
your model is really a reference for me and perhaps for other model builders. The accuracy in every detail of your model is absolut extraordinary. I like sitting in front of my monitor and watch the deatils.

Moin Karl,
 
I am very happ to see your build log again.

My new keel drawing is finished.

 
Next I will draw the frames and build the new bigger version of my keel

Hello friends,
new pictures of the BHR.
Karl
 
 
T e i l    5 5

Druxey, thank you very much.
 
This shows what I am searching. Now I have an idea how to continue.

There is a wing transom and fashion pieces. I don't have a picture of this framing on a cutter, but this picture shows something similar.

Lee,
 
please send me a PM with your mail address. I'll send you a copy of my first keel drawing. Be aware it's in scale 1/48.
The new one will not work with Goodwins reconstruction.

I was really suprised that I did not find a build log about the Naval Cutter Alert on MSW 2.0. I know that there exist some pictures of a model on the old MSW
 
The first source for building a model of this small vessel are Peter Goodwins book "The Naval Cutter Alert, 1777", published by PhoenixPublications Inc. 1991 and the two original drawing of her sister Rattlesnake (1776) which you will find on the homepage of the NMM.
There also exist two paintings of Joseph Marshall of the ship, which are exhibited in the Science Museum, London.
I found also an Sheer and Profile drawing of Alert which was published by the NRG.
 
The sheer and profile of the NRG and Goodwin differ from the original drawing. They show the maximum width of the ship not at frame 0. Perhaps my Engish is to bad, but I could not find any reason for this. So I decide to draw my own lines. which were based on Goodwin and the original drawing.

 
The drawing is not finished, because I decided only to draw what I need for my build.
 
Next step was the keel. Goodwin shows for the pass between keel and lower apron a solution which I could not find on any original cutter drawings.

 
For the after deadwood he does not offer any possible solution

 
I decide to follow the original drawing of Cheerful 1806 for the pass between keel and lower apron. The flat joint at the foremost keel part is shown on original drawings of this period (for example on HMS Triton). For the after deadwood I decided to use a bearing line. I am not sure if this is common for ships of this period.
The next picture shows my completed keel drawing:

 
Goodwin uses for his design the common frameing pattern of double and single frames. I am not sure that this design was used for the original ship. For the Swan class sloops only single frames were used. This you will also find on the drawing of Cheerful and other cutters. Also the wide of the frame parts are not clear. In his drawing he uses much smaller futtocks than he descibed in the text part of the book. In his "Construction and Fitting of Sailing Man of War" he gives a third solution.
What now? Alert is a practice model for me to get the experience to continue my HMS Fly build. Marshall shows on his paintings an simplified frameing design, so I decided to use this. Every frame is 8'' width followed by 8'' space. For the port side I like to show the clinker planking.
On my drawing the final design for the last frame and the hawse pieces is missing in the moment.

 
The drawings for every 31frames and 21cant frames are finished.

 
I am not sure in the moment if I will use the original practice with chocks or the simplified method of Harold Hahn for my build.
 
It will be very nice if you have further information about the cutters of this time. I found the Marmaduke Stalkartt on Google-books, but they didn't scan the plates. Perhaps one of the MSW user can help me to confirm my decisions.

Antony,
 
thanks for searching. If I don't find another solution I will build this part with basswood first and than look how I can anrrange the frames. My frame design is stylized so I have different options.
 
But I hope that one of the more experiencend modeler can help.

Lee,
 
please send me a PM with your mail address. I'll send you a copy of my first keel drawing. Be aware it's in scale 1/48.
The new one will not work with Goodwins reconstruction.