AnobiumPunctatum

Thank you all for your likes and comments. I am glad that my work is of interest and may be useful to someone.  
 
 
Group photo of guns.

For both sides (port and starboard), I proceed in the same way. I first make a card template by directly taking its shape from the model and use this cardboard template to reproduce the pieces to be cut on the cedar sheet (leaving a safety margin of 1 mm on each side).
 

 
I decided to reproduce the cap rail in 2 segments, the joint being placed between gun ports 3 and 4.
 

 
The 4 segments are then ebonized and glued. I then protect (on both sides of the bulwarks: outside and inside) the planking with masking tape and sand to be level. Despite the masking tape, some paint was scratched and will need to be touched up.
 
 

 
The fancy moldings are prepared, ebonized and glued to the outer side of the cap rail. I protect the first part of the cap rail (the 5/32" wide strip) with masking tape so that I can fill the small gaps between the cap rail and the molding without getting too dirty.
This will also allow a faster sanding...
On the picture below, the cap rail on the port side is already sanded while the wood filler (tinted black) has been applied and dried on the starboard side
 

 
The cap rail is then painted black.

 

 
I'll be able to concentrate on the last details (drilling the hawse holes and bowsprit) and start the deck planking.
And always as much fun.
 

Hello again everyone, I'm ready with another Cairo update.
 
Over the past few weeks I have been focusing on some of the detail work. I started off with the anchor buoy. This was one of the artifacts that was recovered during the salvage and sits on display in the Cairo museum. 

On my first attempt to make this I was going to try and make it from card stock shaped into two cones with a disk in the middle to form the flanges where the two halves met. I tried several times but just couldn't get the shape right. Since I wasn't sure of how this method was going to work, I didn't take any pictures. So, on my next attempt I tried using Milliput, getting the basic cone shape and then finishing it off on the lathe. Here are the two halves on this try.

I drilled the center holes for the toothpick to align the halves together, but again I just couldn't get the shape I was looking for. For some reason the centerline wouldn't fall in the right place and I was having difficulties trying to figure out how I was going to make the center flange. So I ended up scrapping this version as well.

On my final attempt I decided to go with some copper sheeting and the same method I originally used with the card stock. I scrounged up a few small scrap pieces in my scrap bin that I had left over from the chimney flanges (I throw nothing away) that worked perfectly. I managed to have enough to make the two halves and the center flange. 

Here are the two halves glued to the center flange.


I fit a small piece of styrene rod through the middle to provide a mounting place for the eyebolts, then drilled a tiny hole in each end to receive the eyebolts.

The eyebolts were then glued in place.

and finally the whole assembly painted up.

Before I can place these on the boat, I'll need to research how these were rigged to the anchor. I have a sneaky feeling that this is going to be a task to find info on these, but I'm going to see what I can turn up.
 
Next it was on to installing the bow guard. Nothing too complex here, I had made this a while back and just needed to put it on. I left out a couple of the rivets to use a mounting points to give the guard a little more of a secure grip on the keel, than just gluing on.


Then I moved on to the Hurricane Deck canopy. There are numerous contemporary photos of the Cairo's sister ships that show almost the entire Hurricane Deck covered with canopies, but the only photo of the Cairo has just one canopy over the boiler skylight. It is not known if the Cairo had more than this when she went down so I just went with what she had in the photo. Besides, too many canopies would hide a lot of the deck details.
 
Attempt 1: I took a small piece of muslin and cut it to shape and size, but I was having a hard time keeping the edges from fraying. So I took some CA and ran it along the edges of the material to keep the strands in place. Definitely didn't like that look.

The muslin had the texture that I was looking for so I stuck with that material. On my second attempt, I cut the canopy shape out, bit this time I soaked the whole thing in diluted clear Elmer's glue and let that dry. For added details, decided to put a ridge vent in the canopy since I figured that these were made up similarly to the field tents used on land by the Army.


Then I went in and added the grommets for additional detail and used those as a way to cover the canopy guy ropes.

Then the whole thing was installed along the center beam and the guys attached to the stanchions.

Making up some of the rope coils for the canopy guys on the stanchions.

Next, I wanted to finish up on the aft skylights and get the door installed. So it was back to borrowing the Admirals Cricut again to cut out the window frames. I built these up exactly the way I did the others and mounted the Port side open and the Starboard side closed.


 
 
Next up, it was on to the forward and aft hand ropes for the casement ladders. 

Completed forward ropes.

Completed aft ropes. Initially the ropes didn't sit right, they had a bit too much sag to them. So I ended up running a bead of CA along each one to stiffen it up and hold its shape. I think the overall look came out quite nicely.

 
Next was the installation of the long hawser. This was probably the one that Commander Selfridge ordered tied to a tree on the Yazoo River bank when he had the ship ran aground shortly after the torpedoes blew the hole in Cairo's Port Bow. This hawser held long enough for everyone to abandon ship, before the tree was pulled from its rooting and the ship slipped beneath the surface.

 
Then it was on to another one of the more tedious parts of the build. The chimney guys. The Cairo display has one set of these installed on the "Ghosted" chimneys with the rest being just steel cable. The original guys were actually iron rods and links (rings) that had a threaded loops on each end to adjust the tension. These guys can be made out in the old Cairo photograph, although some of the photos of her sister ships look more like they have cables or ropes holding the chimneys. I went ahead and built it like the photograph and because there were some of these recovered from the salvage. 
 
These are some of the original guys on the Cairo display.

 
I started with some 24ga wire to make the rods.

And bent them to shape as well as the rings.

Tedious work. I had to make up 80 of the rods and rings along with 20 hooks for the anchor points on the chimney and stanchions.

Once they were made to length, I heated them up red hot with my torch to give them that blued steel look. This color works nicely with the casement color.

All guys in place and blued. I took a lot of pictures of these, I guess you could say that I was somewhat proud of how they turned out.






 
After making up all of those links, I needed a break. So it was time to do a little cleaning of the work bench before moving on to the next project.

 
So after a good bench cleaning I moved on to another tedious project, installation of the boat davits. Normally this wouldn't be too big of an issue, except the slanted casements of the ships make the task a  bit more challenging when it comes to getting the davits all lined up properly. And since one of the davits on each side sits on top of the armor plating, it makes it that much more difficult to get the height and alignment correct.
 
I started with the Port aft davits first. This wasn't too terribly difficult. I used some double sided tape to temp install the mounts then slowly nibbled away at the bottom of each davit until I got the proper height and location. 

Test fitting the boats to make sure there is enough clearance.

 
Once the aft davits were installed, that was where I ran into an unforeseen issue. When I first started this build I had not planned on doing a whole lot of internal details since it was going to be a static model with all sides enclosed. As I built the details on the gun deck I decided that I wanted to show off some of these details and decided to make the Port side a cutaway. Well poor planning on my part didn't take into consideration that one of the davits was going to fall inside the cutaway. So when I built the cutaway I just mounted a small scrap of wood between the casement frames and figured I would just mount the davit base on that. Well, I didn't like that look, so change of plans.
 
This is the area where the davit base will go. What I decided to do was to build up the armor plating in the area and mount the davit properly.
 
So I pulled off the armor plating to make sure the panels lined up the way they were supposed to.

Then I offset every other one to cover the area for the base mount.


Gave everything a fresh coat of paint and some rivets.

Then it was on to mounting the forward Port davits.

 
Now it was time to rig the boats and temp install them. Started of with stropping the blocks.

Then running the ropes through them.

One boat in place. I wanted to show this boat as in the process of being launched, due to it's location above the cutaway. Placing it in it's stowed position would have blocked part of the view in the cutaway and I wanted to give the build a bit of action, not just a static model.

Both Port boats in place. I need to find a way to stiffen the ropes so that they look like they have a load on them. The boats just aren't heavy enough to keep the line taught. I think a little diluted Elmer's will work. I also think it will also help keep the boats from swinging around too much when I move it.

Now it's on to installing the Starboard davits. Pretty much the same as the Port side.

Now with the rigging all in place I need to find out how they would have stowed the tackle on the covered boats since my Starboard boats have tarps over them and the lift rings are under the tarp. More research.
 
Finally, she was getting a little dusty so I decided to take her outside to the barn and blow some of the dust off of her. It was such a pretty day out, I figured I'd snap a few pictures of her in natural lighting while I was out there.





She's getting pretty close to being done. Perhaps a couple of more months and I will call it complete. Most of that depends on how much more research I need to do to get info on the anchor buoy, boat rig and rudder linkage. There is no rush, I'd like to finish by December 12th to celebrate the 160th anniversary of her sinking, but if I don't make it, so be it.
 
I thank you all for the kind words, comments and likes, as well as taking the time to stop by and view my build. Until the next update, everyone stay safe and healthy.
 
-Brian
 
 
 

I finished blending in the Rudderhead framing to the stern and then started mocking up the upper counter and stern light layout - still needs tweaking.
 

It looks excellent. You make it really hard for me to stay true to my resolutions.

Good Morning folks...
 
I had previously made a bunch of frames as a test that can now be placed on the keel.  But before I do that, let me show you the plan for two "Tall" full height frames.  I just want to show you guys the differences you will encounter between some of these.  Primarily the fact that some of the frames will have a full floor section across the keel with futtocks on either side.  like the one below...
 

 
Others will will have a FLOOR Chock that sits on the keel with the futtocks following on either side up to the sheer.  This is typical so when you are searching for the parts on the frames you are building, beware of the two variations.   This type of square frame construction will alternate every other frame on the keel.
 

 
With this in mind, it is time to place the very first "TALL" frame on your model.  I strongly urge you to start with frame "Aa".  This frame is shown on the build board template so you will be able to ensure that it is centered and perfectly vertical.  This is so crucial.  This first frame you place on the keel is crucial that you glue it on perfect vertical and centered port and starboard.   The reason is that all subsequent frames will "Lock" into each other across the the jig cross bar.
 
Before you begin...Make sure the three center keel notches line up with those shown on the build board template.  Adjust your keel on the build board before gluing in the first frame.
 
So a few notes:   
 
You will absolutely need many good quality metal squares.  I have about 7 of these in various sizes.  They are heavy steel squares.
 
I used four of them to align this first frame "Aa" on the keel.  Remember to have it facing the right direction.  The arrow on the jig cross piece always faces forward.
 

In the photo above you can see a square placed against the outside of the frame on both sides.   It is basically at the frames widest part or maximum unfaired width.   This should line up with the outside hull line on the build board template.  This marks the Maximum breadth or width of the hull.   Now it may not fall exactly on the line because you havent faired the hull frames yet,  but it will be very close.   I left a lot of meat on those frames for fairing.  The important thing to remember is to make sure that it is equal distance from the "maximum breadth line".
 
In addition you can see one more square on each side of the frame.  These are used to ensure that the frame is perfectly vertical.  They sit against the fore side of the frame.  The metal squares are quite heavy with a flat block on the bottom.  So they stay where you place them.  I applied some yellow glue to the notch and seated it on the keel.  
 
Moving the heavy squares before the glue set,  the frame was adjusted so it was in the correct position.  I left the squares where they were until the glue fully dried.
 
From this point on you can start adding the remaining "Tall" full height frames next to it.  They should fit perfectly needing only minor adjustment as the cross bar jig on each frame act like puzzle pieces.   Concentrate on building and installing several tall full height frames first.  See below.  I have installed 5 of them.
 

They are glued directly to the keel...BUT,  I have yet to glue the cross jig bars together.  I am not really sure you need to do so.  I have simply used a length of tape to secure them to one another.   This will be advantageous when we cut them free after planking.  We will be able to remove one jig cross bar at a time rather than the whole top which would be more cumbersome to do. 
 
See the tops all fit together like a puzzle piece below.  The tape holds them tightly together and it is quite sturdy.   
 
ALSO...note the spaces left between these full height frames.   These spaces are for the "Short" frames I mentioned.  With the spaces fore them now defined, we can start adding those.   The "short" frames fall where there are gunports and sweep ports.  They have a port sill or sweep port designed into the tops of the frames.   We will cover there construction and mounting next.
 

 
Any questions...there is a lot to cover but since this will be a kit and possible group build I want to make sure my descriptions are thorough and understandable.
 
DRAT...notice that one frame where I forgot to sand the laser char from the inside edge....That will leave a dirty mess of dust when I fair the interior.  I will try and clean that up ahead of time.  Its important to try and get the majority of laser char off of the inside and outside edges before you make up each frame.  That dirt char dust will get everywhere and make your frames look dirty later when you fair the hull.
 
If you examine the framing plan you will notice that above the wales...the framing get interesting and unique.   Since this will be covered with planking it does NOT follow actual framing practices.  It was designed with ease of construction in mind.  Here is an early draft of the framing...showing the first few frames I have drafted and built in this post.   It will help put into perspective what I am describing.
 

 
WHAT A TREAT!!!  No big box of scaffolding all around your frames and hull so you cant see what you are building.  Its a very different concept than all of those POF kits folks are buying on EBAY and ALI EXPRESS.
 
 

It looks excellent. You make it really hard for me to stay true to my resolutions.

Rails and swivel gun pedestals have been done. I made the swivel gun yokes out of brass wire and blackened with chemical.

There will be for lack of better terminology, two styles of frames.   There will be "TALL", full height frames,  and "Short" frames.  The taller frames extend up to the sheer line and beyond, terminating at the top with the cross jig piece.  The cross jig piece is crucial to the entire build concept.  It assures the frame is the correct width and shape when you build it.  There is no need to build these on top of a plan of the frame.  They will all come out the same size when finished, if you don't over sand any scarf joints.   The joints between the frame sections are precision laser cut.  BUT I left them slightly longer.  Most of the frames we will be building are of the tall variety and all need to made first and placed onto the keel.  They need to be on the keel so the "short" frames can be added in the remaining open spots for them.   More on those later.
 
But lets build our first TALL full length square frame.  We will be building them in groups.  The first group of square frames will contain about 12 or 14 frames.   
 
Here is a look at the first full length frame unbuilt.
 

I highly recommend that you remove the laser char from the outside edges and inside edges before assembling each frame.  In this case it is frame "Ba".  But dont tough or remove the chare from any of the scarf joints that connect each section.  They are precision cut and wont be the correct shape if you monkey around with the char on those.   The will almost glue up perfectly as is.   But I show circled in red the two sides on each scarf joint you will need to sand.   These were intentionally left a bit longer.   You need to test fit each segment together first and then sand a bit from one end of the scarf joint.  Test it again.  If needed tweak the circled ends only to close up the scarf joint so it fits tightly.
 
A few NOTES...
 
The floors and futtocks are different thicknesses.  See the books for details.  This creates a stepped edge on the frames.   MAKE SURE...you check the framing plan to see which side of the frame should have that stepped edge.  It could be on the fore or on the aft side.   In some cases where you have three thicknesses you might actually have to steps.  Each frame is different and some frames could even show this stepped joint on both sides of the frames.   So carefully examine the framing plan.
 
On all the square frames the floors and floor chocks are always 5/16" thick.   The square frames will always alternate with one solid floor that spans across the keel in one piece, followed by the next frame which will have the 5/16" thick floor built up with a "floor chock" in the center.   You will see this detail in the Seawatch books clearly and this proper framing structure is followed for the kit.
 
The futtocks and top timbers are 1/4" thick in most cases.   But in order to simplify the building process it was sometimes necessary to use a third thickness for the top timbers that fall next to a gun port or sweep port.   In some cases these were made using 3/16" and 5/32" thick Cedar.   Whenever this happens I have made note of it on the framing plan so you can better find those parts on the appropriate laser cut sheet.
 
Remember that no drawings of each frame are provided as built or as individual parts because we must do our very best to prevent unscrupulous Chinese manufacturers among others from copying the kit illegally.  So check the framing plan for the number of parts for each frame and their thicknesses.  
 
You should only work on one frame at a time and only remove those parts from the sheets for that frame to avoid mixing them up.  They are all labelled.  
 
So working one frame at a time, first check the plans for the number of parts in that frame.   Then look for them on the laser cut sheets.
 
Finished frame assembled...
 

Note the top cross piece which acts as a jig.   Each frame added to the keel extends the jig and keeps the whole hull its proper shape and perfectly aligned.
 
Make sure you have the cross piece facing the correct direction.  There is a laser etched arrow down the center of the cross piece which always points forward.   Double and triple check that your frame and cross piece are facing the right way before you glue this cross piece in position.  The cross piece should always be the very last segment you glue in position.  Dont sand any char from this cross piece at all.  Measurements are precise and very important.   None of it will show anyway and these jig tops will be cut free once we plank the hull.  They are basically going to end up in the trash. so no need to clean up the cross pieces.
 
When sanding the char off the other frame pieces inboard and out you will notice that I left the char above the tiny notches on each frame.  Those notches indicate the sheer of the hull.  Any surface above the notches and sheer line do not have to have any char removed at all.
 
More finished tall frames with the cross jig piece.
 

The Frame Chocks...
 
These are just simulated.  We dont have to mess around with actual tiny chocks.   The joints between frame segments are actually simple scarf joints.  There is a laser etched line to help simulate the full chock on one side of the frame.  You can if you like,  scribe the same on the other side or even just use a pencil.  But truthfully these frames are so close together you wont actually see the lines anyway.  I am not going to simulate the chock lines on the unetched side.
 
BUT...you will notice after you glue up your frame that the chocks look off....
 
The step in the frame should actually be straight across the center of the chock.  I have strategically made the chock full thickness.   This needs to be addressed on all frames.
 
It will initially look like this.  It has a full thickness chock and half of it needs to be thinned down to complete the step.

 Use a sharp #11 blade to place a stop cut down the center of the chock as if it extends across the entire frame.  Then slowly and carefully shave that thicker half of the chock down flush with the next segment (the futtock) of the frame.   See below.
 

Until it looks like this....nice and cleaned up.
 

Then the char can be removed from the inside and outside edges of the frame.  Or better yet clean those before you even glue up all the frame segments.
 
This needs to be done to every joint and really does look like it should with proper chocks.  Nobody will ever know.
 
You might have also noticed that each joint is treenailed at the chocks.  This is optional.  You can follow the framing plan for the placement of those.   This is finicky to say the least.  If they arent all uniform in distance within a group from frame to frame it wont look good at all.  I have seen wooden treenails used here.  I decided to show them but I am not using wooden treenails. If not done properly and all of the same size, again they would look really bad.   Better to leave these off the model than risk that.  So I am just using more black fishing line.  They are always the same size.  I am using 25 pound line for these.   Wooden treenails turn black anyway because of the end grain.  We shall see later after the hull is all framed up if this was a mistake.  You will have to make a decision about this for your model.
 

 
Tomorrow I start gluing frames onto the keel....
 
 
 

Happy Thanksgiving guys.
 
The deadwood is laser cut in two pieces.  These two pieces need to be tapered to 7/32" thick along the edges that sit against the keel and sternpost. To make this easier,  I cut some masking tape to a 7/32" wide strip.  In this case it was red tape.  I then centered it down the edges that needed to be tapered.  Then I proceeded to taper them gradually from the other side to the edges of the tape.
 

One that was finished I glued the larger, lower deadwood piece into position first.  This was followed by the stern post which had its laser char removed.   You must be careful when gluing both of these.  They must be centered on the keel to leave a consistent ledge all around and the sternpost needs to be perfectly vertical.  You want it vertical and in line with the stem at the forward end.
 

This only left the smaller section to be added which was then glued into position.  The aft end of the keel was intentionally left a bit longer and this was sanded flush with the aft edge of the sternpost.  
 

The only parts still remaining were the many wedges for the aft cant frames.  These are done exactly like those on the lower apron.  They are laser cut from thicker pieces of cedar so check that they were cut all the way through the sheet before removing them.  They were also cut slightly longer than needed.  Because they are so thick, you will notice the irregular cut on the forward and aft edges of each wedge after you glue the two layers together.   You must sand them flat and straight evenly on the forward and aft edges before fitting them on top of the deadwood steps.   Dont sand too much...only a bit of cleaning on both sides is needed.  Dont sand the char off of the angled sides to preserve the correct angles.  Center them atop the deadwood slots so you have a consistent notch on both sides of the deadwood for the aft cant frames.
 

That finished up the keel/stem assembly.  I only need to add the bolts along the keel scarf joints.  Then it will be time to construct the build board and start making frames.
 

 
Again ...Happy Thanksgiving!!!

The Rising wood....
 
This is the long notched piece that sits on top of the rabbet strip.  This was added next.  It has notches cut out of it to accept the floors of each square frame.   This is cut in two lengths.  Put the shorter forward length in place first.  I would not sand anything off as far as laser char.  Only sand the small connector that held it into the sheet.  This is a thick piece.  It is 3/8" thick.  The laser may not have cut through in some places like the corners.  So before you try and just push this piece out of the sheet,  look at both sides to see if you need to use a sharp blade to cut some corners all thru etc.  
 

 
If you want to sand anything you might want to touch up the end that will be the seam between both lengths.  Try and squared it up a little.  But dont sand too much.   You dont want to make it any shorter than it should be.  They were left a bit longer at this joint so you can clean it up and get a tight fit.  
 

 
Make sure you dry fit both pieces on top of the actual plan sheet.  You want the length overall to match pretty darn close.   After you get the forward section on first...dry fit the last aft length while its on top of the plan.   This way you can see if you must shorten the forward end a bit at the joint between the two pieces.  It should match the plans very closely.  As you can see I didnt touch the inside of the notches.  But I did sand the char off the top and the sides once it was on the keel assembly.  
 
The rising wood, like the aprons are wider than the keel.  So make sure you center these on both sides when you glue them in position.  You want an equal over-hang of the keel on both sides.
 
Next up is the stern deadwood...still no finish applied to these pieces.

 
 

Its hard to say Greg.  I often think about that myself.   Its similar to another thought I always ponder.   Is it that much more difficult to produce say the lower apron traditionally with a vertical mill or by hand with a chisel?   The laser cutter is basically just another tool in the workshop.  Like a shereline mill.   Having none of those,  how would that change the difficulty level or possible design concepts.  
 
I imagine if you had none of these tools and had to make the lower apron entirely by hand,  then either design concept would be a challenge indeed.   Now using a 3d 5 axis cnc machine to make the lower apron would certainly change it up even further.   With that tool I could make the entire lower apron in one piece with the steps and angles.   But then it would be more like a plastic kit and merely an assembly of parts at that point.  Not much of a challenge or rewarding.
 
So my hats are off to the folks who do this stuff entirely with a chisel in hand, like the original builders of contemporary models. 
 
Chuck

This is a really interesting way to build the deadwoods, which I have not seen before.

This is a really interesting way to build the deadwoods, which I have not seen before.

This is a really interesting way to build the deadwoods, which I have not seen before.

This is a really interesting way to build the deadwoods, which I have not seen before.

This is a really interesting way to build the deadwoods, which I have not seen before.

Yesterday I had the opportunity to watch the video of the online course. Afterwards I tried to represent a 2D reconstruction, which I have done in Autocad 2014, with Rhino. Enclosed is a screenshot of my first attempt. Next I have to extend the stern accordingly.
Many thanks to @Richard Dunn for his cursus, which was a big help for me to go my first steps with Rhino 7.

Continuing with the stem/keel assembly....
 
The remaining sections of keel were added working my way aft.  The keel is actually two layers.  I added one layer at a time.  Each segment is numbered.   The numbers face inward so when the two layers are glued up you cant see them.
 

Here is the entire keel all put together.   Each segment remember is in two layers and I added them one layer at a time trying to get real nice and tight scarphs.   Its not difficult when done in layers.
 
I also added the false keel.  This is the thin strip on the bottom.  This was done with 1/8" wide strips the same depth as the keel.   I simulated the seams with a pencil.  There is still no finish on these parts so it will really look great once I add some wipe on poly.
 

On the aft section you will see a small step where the rabbet strip will end.   You will probably need to adjust where this is.  I made the parts so this was a bit forward of where it should be.  Just lay the keel assembly as it stands on top of the plan and mark the exact location for this slanted step.  Then use a sharp chisel or #11 blade to cut this step in the exact location.
 
Also note that the false keel may seem a bit wide top to bottom.  I have done this intentionally.  It is about 1/32" larger than needed.  I have found that the false keel when made of cedar will take a beating throughout the project.  It will get dented etc.   Even if you tape it to protect it.  So I made it slightly taller so I can sand the bottom of the keel down smooth much later in the project.  Just to smooth out any creases and dents.

The Rabbet...
 
The rabbet is done as I typically do on all of my projects.  I realize the rabbet is a complex organism of sorts.  It should have a "V" shape with and ever changing profile depending on how the hull planking enters it.   I usually make a mess of that if carved with a chisel.  Those of you who have the Speedwell books from Seawatch can see how Greg did this.  He is much more handy with a chisel than I am.
 
So this will be simplified and should you choose to add the garboard hull plank will mostly be covered anyway.   Using a simple strip here is neat and clean.
 
The one thing I have done differently this time is I laser cut the curved sections at the bow in two lengths.   See the photo below.  The two lengths are already glued on the stem assembly but I also show some extras on the table for clarity.   They are 1/16" thick.  The longer segment goes on first and is centered port to starboard.   This will leave a nice lip on both sides.  Then the shorter laser cut rabbet strip is added.   No need to sand the laser char off these.
 
The remaining rabbet strip that works itself aft is just made using a 7/32" x 1/16" cedar strip.  It ends at that slanted step you so carefully chiseled just a moment ago.
 

The Upper and Lower Aprons...
 
Now these pieces you have no doubt seen being made on many POF model.   The upper apron is nothing special.   Its a plain segment that is 3/8" thick.   Simple enough.  The LOWER apron is a different story all together.  It is much more complex.  You have probably seen folks hand chiseling tiny steps into both sides of the lower apron...once again take a look at Volume one of the Speedwell books.
 
I wanted to simplify this however.  Not because it could be difficult to do but because I know that most folks dont have vertical mill, or disc sanders or all the gadgets you often see when folks make the lower apron.
 
I have decided to make the lower apron using many separate parts instead.   Looking ahead to adding the forward cant frames, each set of cant frames has a different angle sanded into the heel of it.   This is so it can be "canted" forward.   This is simply not going to work to easily if you dont have a disc sander.  So I created small wedges with the angles already pre-set on them to accept straight right angled heels on the cant frames.
 
I hope that makes sense.
 
See below.  The upper apron is in front...easy peasy.  Set that one aside for now.  The lower apron is laser cut with a series of steps.  On these steps we will glue the pre-angled wedges.  But using this approach leaves the bottom of the lower apron very thin even at this scale.  It can easily break or get misshapen.  So I have laser cut the "stepped" lower apron attached to a sacrificial piece of wood.   You can use it as a handle.  DO NOT remove the lower apron from this "handle" until all of the little angled wedges are glued to it.  Those will give it enough strength...a remarkable amount of strength actually.  In the photo below I have already added two of the laser cut wedges which show the angles for the cant frames.  Check your plans as these are prominently shown.  Work from the aft side forward.
 
Each angled wedge is made on two layers.   They have laser etched numbers on them and correspond to the plan.  Gle the two layers together with the numbers facing each other.  This is important.   Glue the two halves together "number facing number".   The next to be done for me are the parts marked "7 & 6" in that photo.   I will glue them together now.

Once glued together with the numbers facing each other,  you could make life easier for yourself later by cutting them down a bit.  Once the two pieces are glued together they are too tall.  This doesnt matter at all but if you trim them to match the plans it will be so much easier to fair the inside of the hull when the time comes.   The Keelson will fit so much nicer on top of this when the time comes.  Below you can see me doing just that.  With a sharp blade I am trimming the top to match the plans.   Make sure you have the piece facing the correct way.  Place it on the plan and draw a line where the top portion can be shaved away.  Do this for every piece...I know its a pain.  But you will thank me when it comes time to add the cant frames later. 

When all of the segments are glued onto each step of the lower apron base,  you can finally cut away the bottom handle.  It was held on by just a few connectors which are easily cut with a sharp blade.  Hopefully you glued those wedges onto each step securely and didnt skimp on the glue.  Glue each onto its step and also to the wedge proceeding it.  Nice and secure.  Center them down the top of each step.   Dont mix up the numbers either.  That would be bad because the angles match each individual cant frame.  I also sanded the top of all those wedges so it looks nice and neat.  It also matched the shape for the lower apron shown on the plans.
 

Note that you should not remove any of the laser char on the angled sides of these wedges.  Not only would that screw up the angles laser cut into each of them, but it would also reduce their size.   That should be avoided.
 
A dry test fit of the upper and lower aprons on the keel assembly below.  trying my best to match the curve.   Use the plan to find the exact location for the aft edge of the lower apron along the keel.  You dont want it too forward or even too aft.   Place the keel assembly on the plan and mark where the exact locations are for the upper and lower aprons.  Note how the upper apron extends above the rabbet strip.
 
Note how the aprons are wider than the keel.   The aprons should be centered on the rabbet strip leaving a nice over hang on both sides.
 


 
Still no finish applied to these parts yet.  I will do that once the entire keel/stem assembly is completed.  Thats it for today!!!
 

 
Any questions?
 
 

Alan just a queston good sir. Why not remove the transom you have fitted and fit the counter timber's first then install the transom to fit them. I made all of my stern timber's first and then  fitted the transom. Take the stern timbers in shape and using rubber cement or Pva which ever you choose to glue them all to each other with thin pieces of balsa wood in between the pieces and then sand all of them down at one time. Mark them out with numbers from right to left and  reinstall them in order. I found this so much easier fitting the stern timbers first then the transom.  there is a whole lot more stern timbers then transom that's for sure. Hope this help's you. 
 
 
 




 

Yesterday I had the opportunity to watch the video of the online course. Afterwards I tried to represent a 2D reconstruction, which I have done in Autocad 2014, with Rhino. Enclosed is a screenshot of my first attempt. Next I have to extend the stern accordingly.
Many thanks to @Richard Dunn for his cursus, which was a big help for me to go my first steps with Rhino 7.

Yesterday I had the opportunity to watch the video of the online course. Afterwards I tried to represent a 2D reconstruction, which I have done in Autocad 2014, with Rhino. Enclosed is a screenshot of my first attempt. Next I have to extend the stern accordingly.
Many thanks to @Richard Dunn for his cursus, which was a big help for me to go my first steps with Rhino 7.

Yesterday I had the opportunity to watch the video of the online course. Afterwards I tried to represent a 2D reconstruction, which I have done in Autocad 2014, with Rhino. Enclosed is a screenshot of my first attempt. Next I have to extend the stern accordingly.
Many thanks to @Richard Dunn for his cursus, which was a big help for me to go my first steps with Rhino 7.

Yesterday I had the opportunity to watch the video of the online course. Afterwards I tried to represent a 2D reconstruction, which I have done in Autocad 2014, with Rhino. Enclosed is a screenshot of my first attempt. Next I have to extend the stern accordingly.
Many thanks to @Richard Dunn for his cursus, which was a big help for me to go my first steps with Rhino 7.

Good morning shipmates,
 
Thanks again for the comments and the likes. I have finished fashioning the cheeks to the headworks. They are not perfect. It is remarkable how I can roll along right up to gluing the pieces in place before I realize after looking at the photos that something is not right. But this is a case where I am not going for a redo. The first problem I noticed was that the angle of the arm supporting the cathead was not vertical enough directly below it. The second probably more serious mistake is that the slot in the gammoning piece (the one with the scroll in it) was not milled low enough. I’ve decided that neither error is worth ripping the whole thing apart and starting over. I confess these problems so that anyone that might follow me can avoid the same result. 
 
The one question I have is a question that I’ve had for years. And that is with the installation of bolts, which I need to do along the cheeks. How does one install copper bolts and blacken the ends in situ. I seems beyond my skills to insert an already blackened bolt without the head (of the wire) either losing its blackened patina because of pounding it in or from the action of sanding it flush. Is there a way of doing this in situ without staining the surrounding wood? The same goes for brass or copper fittings. 
 
Anyway, thanks for looking in and for any advice.
 
Ian