AnobiumPunctatum

lovely stem :)v. 

I told that I like to have the option to rig my model. For this I measured carefully the positions of the masts and cut them out of the false keel (1).
The second thing was to cut small cut outs for 2 nuts (2), because I like the small stands which allow to show the lines of the underwater hull without interrupting. For this kind of presentation it's a good idea to screw the model on the stand. The distance to the lower edge isn't equal, because the waterline isn't parallel to the keel.

 

 
Further I glued the parts of the stem an the knee of the head together.
 

 
For sanding the edges and removing the laser char I sawed a small sanding block out of balsa wood.
 

 

I told that I like to have the option to rig my model. For this I measured carefully the positions of the masts and cut them out of the false keel (1).
The second thing was to cut small cut outs for 2 nuts (2), because I like the small stands which allow to show the lines of the underwater hull without interrupting. For this kind of presentation it's a good idea to screw the model on the stand. The distance to the lower edge isn't equal, because the waterline isn't parallel to the keel.

 

 
Further I glued the parts of the stem an the knee of the head together.
 

 
For sanding the edges and removing the laser char I sawed a small sanding block out of balsa wood.
 

 

I told that I like to have the option to rig my model. For this I measured carefully the positions of the masts and cut them out of the false keel (1).
The second thing was to cut small cut outs for 2 nuts (2), because I like the small stands which allow to show the lines of the underwater hull without interrupting. For this kind of presentation it's a good idea to screw the model on the stand. The distance to the lower edge isn't equal, because the waterline isn't parallel to the keel.

 

 
Further I glued the parts of the stem an the knee of the head together.
 

 
For sanding the edges and removing the laser char I sawed a small sanding block out of balsa wood.
 

 

No, I think that you haven't put enough material at the top away. Sorry, my English is ot so good. Perhaps the picture better illustrates what I am trying to describe.

 

Congratulaition for reaching this milestone.
Have a look at the top of your knee of the head. I think, that you havve to rind there some material.

I told that I like to have the option to rig my model. For this I measured carefully the positions of the masts and cut them out of the false keel (1).
The second thing was to cut small cut outs for 2 nuts (2), because I like the small stands which allow to show the lines of the underwater hull without interrupting. For this kind of presentation it's a good idea to screw the model on the stand. The distance to the lower edge isn't equal, because the waterline isn't parallel to the keel.

 

 
Further I glued the parts of the stem an the knee of the head together.
 

 
For sanding the edges and removing the laser char I sawed a small sanding block out of balsa wood.
 

 

I told that I like to have the option to rig my model. For this I measured carefully the positions of the masts and cut them out of the false keel (1).
The second thing was to cut small cut outs for 2 nuts (2), because I like the small stands which allow to show the lines of the underwater hull without interrupting. For this kind of presentation it's a good idea to screw the model on the stand. The distance to the lower edge isn't equal, because the waterline isn't parallel to the keel.

 

 
Further I glued the parts of the stem an the knee of the head together.
 

 
For sanding the edges and removing the laser char I sawed a small sanding block out of balsa wood.
 

 

I told that I like to have the option to rig my model. For this I measured carefully the positions of the masts and cut them out of the false keel (1).
The second thing was to cut small cut outs for 2 nuts (2), because I like the small stands which allow to show the lines of the underwater hull without interrupting. For this kind of presentation it's a good idea to screw the model on the stand. The distance to the lower edge isn't equal, because the waterline isn't parallel to the keel.

 

 
Further I glued the parts of the stem an the knee of the head together.
 

 
For sanding the edges and removing the laser char I sawed a small sanding block out of balsa wood.
 

 

I told that I like to have the option to rig my model. For this I measured carefully the positions of the masts and cut them out of the false keel (1).
The second thing was to cut small cut outs for 2 nuts (2), because I like the small stands which allow to show the lines of the underwater hull without interrupting. For this kind of presentation it's a good idea to screw the model on the stand. The distance to the lower edge isn't equal, because the waterline isn't parallel to the keel.

 

 
Further I glued the parts of the stem an the knee of the head together.
 

 
For sanding the edges and removing the laser char I sawed a small sanding block out of balsa wood.
 

 

I will follow yur log with great interest. I am waiting on some replacement parts and the Cheerful timber set from Chuck to start with this beautyful little model. I like your idea to show the room, but if you don't make a cut out of the deck I think that you will not see much. The room is really dark.
 

Scuppers in German means "Speigatten"

Thank you to all the 'Likes'.
 
The two forward chase ports were cut after determining their position on the filler pieces.

 
The opening is slightly smaller than the final measurements. The openings are then sanded with sanding blocks manufactured to the correct dimensions.

 
I will probably cover the wood with a thin coat of 'Gesso' before doing a final sanding with very fine sandpaper.
But the next step will be to cut out the space that will house the two rooms.
 

Your counter is looking really nice.

In 2016 I bought Chuck's Starting set from a fellow modeler who became a father. I glued the false keel together and then packed everything in a big box. While preparing the Winchelsea build, the box fell into my hands and I decided to build both models more or less in parallel. I can practise all the building steps on the much smaller Cheerful model before I do them on the Winchelsea.
 
Since the false keel I built at that time was no longer usable and I want to build the model from Yellow Cedar, I asked Chuck for spare parts. These arrived on Saturday morning with a small delivery of wood. Many thanks for the first class service, @Chuck .
 
I will build the model according to the instructions and with the help of the mini-kits. I have only one change planned - I want to copper the underwater hull.
The slipway is a bit big for the small cutter, but as I still had it, it was reactivated.
 
On Saturday evening I glued the false keel together and let it dry overnight. The frames could only be pushed into the recesses with difficulty - the thickness of plywood is always subject to slight fluctuations. I made a small sanding stick out of 180-grit sandpaper and a suitable strip. Then go over the lasered edges two or three times on each side and the frames fit perfectly (the frames are not glued in now).
 
 

Finally, the stem was assembled.
 

 

Post 49:  Rigging the Bowsprit
4 blocks need to be installed on the the ring-bolts at the end of the bowsprit:
 

 
The bobstay needs a block with a becket seized on one end.  My method is established from several posts on this site but I  include it here for completeness
 
I start by forming the becket.  I do this by wrapping the line around an appropriate sized drill, passing a needle through the line an pulling it tight

 
I seal this with a drop of CA and stiffen the becket with shellac.
 
Now I add the block and glue it to the line with PVA.  Then I begin the false splice by fraying the ends cutting them on the diagonal, adding a drop of PVA and rolling the splice between my fingers
 

 
Since this bobdstay is seved for its whole length I serve over the splice as well

 
In order to thicken the splice a little I wound some 0.3 mm line just over the splice itself.
 

 
The other end of the bobstay is spliced to the stem in a similar way and then the block is reeved to the lower 3/16double  block on the end of the bowsprit.
 

 
The bowsprit guys were made in a similar way but spliced onto thimbles.   a hook fabricated from 24 gauge wire was added to the outer   The whole assembly was attached as shown in the plans between the ring-bolt at the and of the bowsprit and the ring bolt in the bow of the hull
 

 
None of these was tightened at this stage.  I will wait until the rest of the bowsprit rigging is in place.
 
John
 

Man do I feel like a dummy!!! I measured everything! I printed off every bulkhead in both 300dpi and 600dpi thinking my printer was at fault. I measured the distance from top of the bulkhead to the bottom of the wales, the bottom of the wales to bottom of the keel and compared each measurement to the digital print takeoff and everything was on the money or +- .5 of a millimeter once or twice. And the prize goes to Christian!! After scratching my head, cussing some more and getting yelled at by my wife, I checked my wood pile. My 1/4 inch stuff is about 30 feet x 4.5 inches x 15/64 inches!. After a bevel and a bit of a sand we have just over by a hair 7/32. As you can guess my Tourette's came back with a vengeance and my wife was yelling at me again  
My Winnie is naked again as I took Tom's advice and started over. I just couldn't live with the 'close enough, fake it' thing. Winnie and friends deserve better!

Tadaa, yes here it is finally, after crossing the atlantic! Happy as can be!

Scuppers in German means "Speigatten"

I would humbly inexperiencely think coppering would  ruin beauty and philosophy behind it for me. and cover palnking  . im with Greg. elegant with simplicity. its same logic applied as going with treenails. posibilities are endless. - fully ? partially with framing ? one side? I would for sure not put scuppers on mine. Im eager to see  how top deck would look like apart of cannons. Would there be those crossbeams like on greenwich model we see? only Chuck knows    im looking forward to explore it as it goes....

Next step was to form the rabbet. I used therefor a scrap piece from the false keel.
 

 
After drying, the spooning was glued to the false keel. During the drying process the paper clips proved their worth.
 

 
I sanded the taper the stem with sandpaper. Finally, the stem and keel were glued to the ensemble.
As you can see in the photos, the shape of the taper is not perfect, but the planking will cover that later.
 

 

If you like to copper HMS Winchelsea, I am quite sure that you have to follow the appearence of the Minerva model, this means that you have to change the design from Chuck. Chucks design shows the ship before the large repair. During this repair from 03/1780 until 04/1782 the ship was coppered.
I like to rig my model, because I love the appearance of a "fully" rigged frigate. But until I reach this stage I have a lot to do and much more to learn.

If you like to copper HMS Winchelsea, I am quite sure that you have to follow the appearence of the Minerva model, this means that you have to change the design from Chuck. Chucks design shows the ship before the large repair. During this repair from 03/1780 until 04/1782 the ship was coppered.
I like to rig my model, because I love the appearance of a "fully" rigged frigate. But until I reach this stage I have a lot to do and much more to learn.

Nicely done.

If you like to copper HMS Winchelsea, I am quite sure that you have to follow the appearence of the Minerva model, this means that you have to change the design from Chuck. Chucks design shows the ship before the large repair. During this repair from 03/1780 until 04/1782 the ship was coppered.
I like to rig my model, because I love the appearance of a "fully" rigged frigate. But until I reach this stage I have a lot to do and much more to learn.