AnobiumPunctatum

Current progress on the planking:
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
I was just about to finish the second-last strake, when - AGHAST! I've been using a 1mm drill to make the holes for the push pins (after nasty painful experiences pushing them in when I was making the dromon), and I just broke my last drill bit. We're currently in lockdown, so I have to wait till I can get new ones click-and-collect from Bunnings . . .
 
Interesting - I'm not exactly following the lines I drew on the plug for the planks - I think the planks are trying to tell me something - that my own lines weren't right. Certainly the planking looks better than what I'd drawn.  So, pretty happy with it all.
 
Steven 

Thanks everybody for the likes and i particular thanks Woodrat, Druxey and Bolin for the info on bow/sternpost planking.
 
Well, I've reached something of a milestone - I seem to recall Druxey saying the hardest bit of planking is getting to the turn of the bilge. Which I have now done! 
 
I've found that I'm doing an average of one pair of strakes every two days. Here's a pair of end planks.
 

 
I've been joining the planks in a strake with scarphs in the thickness of the plank. There's a lot of trial and error involved and quite a bit of adjustment needed to get the planks to fit properly and follow the line of the strake smoothly. Of course the upper side of the plank isn't as important as the upper, because it will be hidden by the next plank overlapping it. 
 
Sometimes it doesn't quite work at the ends and I have to put in slivers of wood to fill the gaps.
 

 

 
And then trim them off smooth.
 
So here's the sequence - progress photos as the planking gradually gets done.
 

 

 

 

 

 
Some more gap filling needed here. I'll get onto it in due course.
 

 
This end is rather better.
 

 
 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
I'm pretty happy with this. And the pattern of the planking is unexpectedly attractive. It's made me appreciate clinker construction a lot more.
 
Steven
 
 
 
 
 

Thank you Toni. I had cut stock in pear for the whelps at the beginning of the project so I will go with that.
 
I spent yesterday and today making the capstan barrel and retaining cap, using the lathe and mill method described in the instructions. I measured the various sections onto the boxwood blank and chucked it into the lathe with a live center on the end. I then rounded the whole length to 13" actual and cut the gasket and bottom sections an inch and 2" thinner. 
 

 

 
It was then time to move the chuck and the live center to the mill to mill the flat sections. Here is where it got interesting. I have the mill attachment for the Sherline lathe which has a pretty small cross slide. For this application I needed to mount the rotary table on the 90 degree stand on the cross slide with enough room on the other side to clamp the vise with the live center in it. I do have a second cross slide insert and a longer plate that I was able to use to get enough length on the cross slide but I had to mount the plate over the X crank which made turning the crank a bit difficult. There was just enough room so that I could mill the 3" of the 10 sided section without having to remount anything but it took a while to get there.
 

 
The real problem I had was getting the blank to be parallel to the cross slide which I thought I had done but it was a little off. I was able to clean things up with some files after milling with the the blank still in the rotary table. I milled the top square without any problems. I cut the barrel and retaining pin off the blank and test fit the barrel into the base. I ended up putting the barrel back into the lathe to reduce the bottom slightly so the the barrel could fit and turn in the base. My bottom was a little too short so I made a new retaining pin with a lip that fits into the hole. A piece of 1/8" dowel fits between the barrel and the pin to hold them in place on the base.
 

 
Next up is making the whelps.

Second to last paint cue. Some lovely aftermarket ships boats from Black cat and the shops guns are also on a slow boat from France as I decided the kit ones were just not good enough. 

 

The first of the 4 types of aircraft I’ll use on Thai build, as you can imagine I have quite a stash of spares in Pe, so firstly the Curtis Seagull, one as a trial to see how it looks then the first trial using some pe and brass rods 

Yes, and every part is really interesting. . So don't worry about this

Yes, and every part is really interesting. . So don't worry about this

While reading the work more thoroughly, I found the reason for the few discrepancies in Bind II.
 
In "Rekonstruktion af Osebergskibet Bind I" Chapter 6.2 page 98, Bischoff explains that some of the plans were hand drawn but processed digitally in Photoshop, and others were entirely digital and drawn in Rhinoceros.
 
Because Photoshop uses a raster interface rather than a vector one, it cannot do exact measurements. It can only do measurements to the nearest pixel at the working scale.
 
 
This thread is getting ridiculously long and I'm not even building with wood again yet, so I'll combine my next post with my last one.
 
I don't know if any of you remember how many months I spent agonizing over the keel alone. Even after I bought the Saga Oseberg book by Thomas Finderup I couldn't figure out exactly how it was shaped. Now I've got exact numbers for every single curve of it. Here is one mathematically perfect keel.
 
 

Don't worry about how long this topic is.  Research is a big part of any scratch build where you have to make your own plans.

Steven, I converted them for you....

Firstly, thanks everybody for the likes and comments.
 
Druxey, your comments are very welcome, not a pain at all. They do make me think about things that would otherwise not occur to me.
 
Unfortunately, I couldn't open your attachments - they seem to be in Photoshop, which I don't have.
 
I'm not really sure what I'm doing and whether it fits with either of the methods you advise, but somehow it now seems to be working (!) - see the two most recent planks at the bow.
 

 
And I have to say, I'm really liking the look of this clinker planking.
 

 
Steven

The Trumpeter kit for uses the netting in 2 pieces and some ridiculous flimsy arms to hold them, and Eduard provides something better with really **** poor instructions, 

the net needs to be bent to about 80degrees

then it needs a rivet strip among side the top to reflect the real things. 

Ken you can get bits from you dental supply for the turbo carver. I got a gift from my dentist of about 50 bits that he was not using, the equivalent  of three dental visits in value. They were unused and in perfect condition. 
 
photo below shows the gratings cut out to be framed on the upper deck, Lots  of extras for later on. I am glad that i made so many, as you can find so many imperfections in the ones i made even though i was so careful. And the truth be told it takes very little extra time  to make more at the same time.

Really nice progress, Jorge.
But you made a little mistakes by the gun ports. They are not perpendicular. The bottom lid and the top lid are parallel to the gun deck. So you have always a rhomboid.
 
Why do you choose 1/35 and not 1/36 or 1/32? I know the scale from military model building but not from ship modelbuilding

Planking in progress. Note the rubber spaces as recommended by Liteflite (though sometimes I use wooden spacers when stiffness is needed).
 

 

 
And a sliver to close up a gap. 
 

 
And trimmed off.
 
 

 
More planking:
 

 
 
 

 
 
I've been thinking about Druxey's question regarding the layout of the planking butts - it makes sense that the further they are apart the stronger the structure. But only one of my books (Mondfeld) has a diagram showing how they are supposed to be done. And even then I misinterpreted the layout. 
 
So now that I've got this far, I've decided to change the layout in future strakes so the spacing is more equal (see the black marks)
 
More to come.
 
Steven 
 

Kris I can only help by converting in 2D because my 3D skills are minimal.
If You work in 2D you can draw this in a similiar manner I use for cant frames.
 
With help of the side view you get the correct legth of every frame. Drawing vertical lines on top view gives you the correct section and stepping line.
Mark your buttock lines in the side view.  Than draw all lines from all necessary points to an body-master.
Orientate a copy of your "body master" that it is perpendicular to the frame in the side view. Now you can draw the lines from the side view to the body-master. Copy all lines in another body-master and rotate them, that everything is perpendicular. Connect all section points and you get the outline shape of the frame (if it inclusive plank thinkness of exclusive depends of your view are showing the outside of the hull or drawn on the frames (as by plans of the NMM).
 
I hope you understand whant I mean. It is more tricky to describe than to draw.

Kris I can only help by converting in 2D because my 3D skills are minimal.
If You work in 2D you can draw this in a similiar manner I use for cant frames.
 
With help of the side view you get the correct legth of every frame. Drawing vertical lines on top view gives you the correct section and stepping line.
Mark your buttock lines in the side view.  Than draw all lines from all necessary points to an body-master.
Orientate a copy of your "body master" that it is perpendicular to the frame in the side view. Now you can draw the lines from the side view to the body-master. Copy all lines in another body-master and rotate them, that everything is perpendicular. Connect all section points and you get the outline shape of the frame (if it inclusive plank thinkness of exclusive depends of your view are showing the outside of the hull or drawn on the frames (as by plans of the NMM).
 
I hope you understand whant I mean. It is more tricky to describe than to draw.

Steelwork glued on and a test fit of the deck 

And the bridge, apparently she had 50 cal machine guns in early 1943 so I got some in 1/350. 

Really nice progress

Really nice progress

Really nice progress

Having decided to "drop" the drop planks the planking came up higher and I found I had to make higher stem and stern posts. I was fortunate that I had some wood with a curved grain to make them stronger.
 

 
I needed to keep them the same orientation as the old ones, but I only had a scarph joint to keep them aligned. So before I pulled the stempost/keel/sternpost asembly apart I traced over the old set-up and used it as a pattern for the new one.
 

 

 

 
 
New planking layout marked out on the plug, with the plank shift also marked.
 

 

 

 
And picked out in red to make it easier to see. Cling-wrap on the plug again, to stop the planks adhering to the plug.
 

 
The planks of the garboard strake.
 

 
Dry fitted
 

 
Glued in place. I was fortunate to find a set of tiny clothes pegs made out of plastic instead of wood, so the glue didn't stick them to the ship.
 


The scarph joining two planks didn't quite work, so I glued in a bit of wood to fill the gap; to be sanded off later.
 
 

 
And here's the sequence of planking so far:
 

 
I used push pins to hold the planks down - the plug was made of pine, but it was rather tougher than I'd been expecting, so I needed to drill pilot holes in the plug so they'd go in far enough. And I used scraps of wood to spread the load, or concentrate it as needed. 
 

 
     
 
    
 
    
 
 

 

 
That's it so far . . .
 
Steven

Well, I've been offline for awhile but I haven't been idle.
 
I've made a new buisine (trumpetty thing) with a finer shaft, so it looks more like a trumpet than a bazooka. And a second one. Terribly worried I was going to cut the shafts so thin they would break, but they turned out ok. 
 

 
 
 
  
 
And I've carved the second buisinier, so now I have both.
 
     
 
   
 
    
 
So here's the three figures so far - A and B on the seal below - (the helmsman isn't finished - I won't finalise his arms till I have the steering oar made and in position)
 
     
 
The next people to carve will be the guys amidships (C on the seal). And looking carefully at them for the first time I realise they are working a windlass!
 

 
It turns out this seal is not just a picture of a ship - it's captured a moment in time!
 
This ship is getting ready to set sail: The helmsman (A) is in place to steer the vessel, and two buisiniers (B) are announcing the ship's departure. The windlass (C) is raising the yard , two crewmen at the bow are weighing in the anchor (D), another crewman (E) is climbing a backstay to unfurl the sail when the yard is fully hoisted.
 
Steven