AnobiumPunctatum

Ken you can get bits from you dental supply for the turbo carver. I got a gift from my dentist of about 50 bits that he was not using, the equivalent  of three dental visits in value. They were unused and in perfect condition. 
 
photo below shows the gratings cut out to be framed on the upper deck, Lots  of extras for later on. I am glad that i made so many, as you can find so many imperfections in the ones i made even though i was so careful. And the truth be told it takes very little extra time  to make more at the same time.

Really nice progress, Jorge.
But you made a little mistakes by the gun ports. They are not perpendicular. The bottom lid and the top lid are parallel to the gun deck. So you have always a rhomboid.
 
Why do you choose 1/35 and not 1/36 or 1/32? I know the scale from military model building but not from ship modelbuilding

Planking in progress. Note the rubber spaces as recommended by Liteflite (though sometimes I use wooden spacers when stiffness is needed).
 

 

 
And a sliver to close up a gap. 
 

 
And trimmed off.
 
 

 
More planking:
 

 
 
 

 
 
I've been thinking about Druxey's question regarding the layout of the planking butts - it makes sense that the further they are apart the stronger the structure. But only one of my books (Mondfeld) has a diagram showing how they are supposed to be done. And even then I misinterpreted the layout. 
 
So now that I've got this far, I've decided to change the layout in future strakes so the spacing is more equal (see the black marks)
 
More to come.
 
Steven 
 

Kris I can only help by converting in 2D because my 3D skills are minimal.
If You work in 2D you can draw this in a similiar manner I use for cant frames.
 
With help of the side view you get the correct legth of every frame. Drawing vertical lines on top view gives you the correct section and stepping line.
Mark your buttock lines in the side view.  Than draw all lines from all necessary points to an body-master.
Orientate a copy of your "body master" that it is perpendicular to the frame in the side view. Now you can draw the lines from the side view to the body-master. Copy all lines in another body-master and rotate them, that everything is perpendicular. Connect all section points and you get the outline shape of the frame (if it inclusive plank thinkness of exclusive depends of your view are showing the outside of the hull or drawn on the frames (as by plans of the NMM).
 
I hope you understand whant I mean. It is more tricky to describe than to draw.

Kris I can only help by converting in 2D because my 3D skills are minimal.
If You work in 2D you can draw this in a similiar manner I use for cant frames.
 
With help of the side view you get the correct legth of every frame. Drawing vertical lines on top view gives you the correct section and stepping line.
Mark your buttock lines in the side view.  Than draw all lines from all necessary points to an body-master.
Orientate a copy of your "body master" that it is perpendicular to the frame in the side view. Now you can draw the lines from the side view to the body-master. Copy all lines in another body-master and rotate them, that everything is perpendicular. Connect all section points and you get the outline shape of the frame (if it inclusive plank thinkness of exclusive depends of your view are showing the outside of the hull or drawn on the frames (as by plans of the NMM).
 
I hope you understand whant I mean. It is more tricky to describe than to draw.

Steelwork glued on and a test fit of the deck 

And the bridge, apparently she had 50 cal machine guns in early 1943 so I got some in 1/350. 

Really nice progress

Really nice progress

Really nice progress

Having decided to "drop" the drop planks the planking came up higher and I found I had to make higher stem and stern posts. I was fortunate that I had some wood with a curved grain to make them stronger.
 

 
I needed to keep them the same orientation as the old ones, but I only had a scarph joint to keep them aligned. So before I pulled the stempost/keel/sternpost asembly apart I traced over the old set-up and used it as a pattern for the new one.
 

 

 

 
 
New planking layout marked out on the plug, with the plank shift also marked.
 

 

 

 
And picked out in red to make it easier to see. Cling-wrap on the plug again, to stop the planks adhering to the plug.
 

 
The planks of the garboard strake.
 

 
Dry fitted
 

 
Glued in place. I was fortunate to find a set of tiny clothes pegs made out of plastic instead of wood, so the glue didn't stick them to the ship.
 


The scarph joining two planks didn't quite work, so I glued in a bit of wood to fill the gap; to be sanded off later.
 
 

 
And here's the sequence of planking so far:
 

 
I used push pins to hold the planks down - the plug was made of pine, but it was rather tougher than I'd been expecting, so I needed to drill pilot holes in the plug so they'd go in far enough. And I used scraps of wood to spread the load, or concentrate it as needed. 
 

 
     
 
    
 
    
 
 

 

 
That's it so far . . .
 
Steven

Well, I've been offline for awhile but I haven't been idle.
 
I've made a new buisine (trumpetty thing) with a finer shaft, so it looks more like a trumpet than a bazooka. And a second one. Terribly worried I was going to cut the shafts so thin they would break, but they turned out ok. 
 

 
 
 
  
 
And I've carved the second buisinier, so now I have both.
 
     
 
   
 
    
 
So here's the three figures so far - A and B on the seal below - (the helmsman isn't finished - I won't finalise his arms till I have the steering oar made and in position)
 
     
 
The next people to carve will be the guys amidships (C on the seal). And looking carefully at them for the first time I realise they are working a windlass!
 

 
It turns out this seal is not just a picture of a ship - it's captured a moment in time!
 
This ship is getting ready to set sail: The helmsman (A) is in place to steer the vessel, and two buisiniers (B) are announcing the ship's departure. The windlass (C) is raising the yard , two crewmen at the bow are weighing in the anchor (D), another crewman (E) is climbing a backstay to unfurl the sail when the yard is fully hoisted.
 
Steven
 

Really nice progress, Jorge.
But you made a little mistakes by the gun ports. They are not perpendicular. The bottom lid and the top lid are parallel to the gun deck. So you have always a rhomboid.
 
Why do you choose 1/35 and not 1/36 or 1/32? I know the scale from military model building but not from ship modelbuilding

Hello, I start the construction of the HMS Winchelsea 1764 at 1/35 full scracht. I will use marine plywood for the false frames and false keel. For the hull lining and wooden decks by Raulí Huelle and some details in American Oak. It will be completely painted and the work alive with copper. I hope to do the rigging and the sails. I use google translator

Thanks for the info. That's exactly, what I searched. I think I have to practice a little bit more with the search function of the forum

Thanks for the info. That's exactly, what I searched. I think I have to practice a little bit more with the search function of the forum

I think I can give you some information about this drawing,. This is a reconstruction drawing of Skuldelev I from 1971.
It was as far as I know the base for the presentation of the ship in the musuem. I own a copy of this but there are in the meantime some newer reconstructions which are giving a slightly different hull. But you can build a very nice model with this information.
I am searching a reconstruction of the Haithabu knarr and longship. I hoppe to find someday one good drawing. of the find

I'll get a new tool. To practice I am seraching some the historic (American war of revolutions or later) dimensions of water barrels, barrels for gun pouder, meet  and so on. What other other storage for ships are existing. Can smeone help me ?
I Like to build some of theses barrels. and other equipement.

Really nice start. You choose the same method I like to us for my own build. How did you made the notches? With the table saw?

The PE parts are looking fantastic.

I like this old carriers. Count me in.

Apparently so, the conversion apparently cost $300k so I expect that it wasn’t worth it. 
 
Im pretty happy with the Hull now, grunge and rust. 

Hi 😊