AnobiumPunctatum

Thank you Chuck and Glenn for your kind comments and thank you to all the 'Likes'.
 
Glenn, this is 'Wood Project Source' in New Jersey, USA. I ordered all the necessary wood as early as January 2018, just a few months before the company unfortunately ceased operations.
 
Installation of the rabbet strip.

I shape it using the laser board.
 

 
Gluing of the 2 segments
 

 

 
The keel elements are ready for installation.
This will be the next step.
 

Post 48: Bowsprit step and Windlass
 
To complete the fore-deck paraphernalia there are two more nice little mini-kits from Chuck.
 
First up was the the bowsprit step:
 
This could be scratch built but the square holes might present problems.  So the kit looks like this:
 

 
The uprights are constructed in three parts
 

 
It is important to sand these well so that the joins are not visible after painting.
 
The  brackets are then added
 

 
I simulated the bolts with 24 gauge black wire.  After filing these flat the brass ends were chemically blackened with a selenium based product.  I find that there is no staining of painted timber using this technique but bare timber often does show some staining and more care is needed. 
 
The pawls were painted black and weathered with rusty brown powder as suggested by Chuck for all metal parts. These were pinned through. the uprights  and finally the uprights were joined with 1/16 inch square boxwood strips, left unglued for the moment.
 

 
Next up the windlass which would be a real challenge but thanks to another kit from Chuck I nice, though challenging job, can be made
 
First a set of " barrels" is constructed on hexagonal end pieces
 

 
These are threaded onto a square boxwood strip and the supports and end-pieces added before guleing the whole lot together.
 

 
The bowsprit itself was made some time ago and the hole in the bow widened to allow a tight fit of the bowsprit so the next task is to install the bowsprit permanently.
 
John

Thanks guys for the encouragement! JJ, I did what you suggested and it was well worth it! That poly sure does nice things to Alaskan cedar.  I'm at the point where my inexperience is driving me nuts. I'm not used to 2nd guessing myself so much but I'm sure in time it will get better. I found some cheapo basswood sticks for battens at a hobby store miles away. It was a tossup...hardware store or just pay 60 cents and get them cut already. Figures I find the wood but small brass nails are on back order forever. Anyways, I mapped out my starboard wale and I *think* it looks ok. What do you folks think?  PS. since posting these pics, I saw that it needed to come down just a wee bit at the bow. It's fixed  I spend too much time here..good night1 
 
 

Christian, there is so much preparation work it's enough to drive you crazy.  🤪    All the preliminary work has me very anxious to start this build.
Tom

Really interesting approach and a lot of preparation works.

After finishing the ensemble I got the information that the step between stem and knee of the head doesn't exist. There is a drawing in Steel's Naval Architecture, that shows this detail. I am missing this book in my library and follwed the design which David descirbes in the Swan Class series by my first attempt.
 
Now I've reworked the comstruction:

Actually, the weather is too nice to work in the shipyard...
...but a little bit I did manage to do this weekend.

The two prepared parts of the "Knee of the Head" were carefully fitted to the steven and then glued together.

Next, all templates were carefully removed and the fit was checked again.

To make it easier for me to glue the Knee of the Head to the stem I drilled three holes of 2.0mm and fixed the component with brass wire. At this step the fit was checked one last time and some slight corrections were made.
Now the Knee of the Head was sandes into shape. It tapers from the keel to the upper corner of the leading edge from about 10.5'' (according to SR 9.5'') to 7.5''; the trailing edge has a constant width of 10.5''. To transfer the measurements to the wood, I made small templates in CAD and glued them to the component. The stern changes its width from 10.5'' at the transition to the keel to 16'' at the top edge. I have also made a template for this. Because of all the sanding I forgot to take pictures of this stage of construction.

The last three pictures show the finished ensemble. On the second last picture you can hopefully see the wooden dowels I glued to the model instead of the brass rods.


 
 
 

Thanks for the Likes.
 
Today I prepared the "Knee of the Head". I have divided this one into two parts to make it easier for me to adapt to the stem later. First the chocks of the upper part were adjusted and glued together. For the caulking  was again single layer cellulose used. To compensate for small tolerances, the templates were again exchanged for a single one after completion of the assembly. The main piece and the other components of the upper assembly were then added.

The lower assembly was then adapted and assembled.
The following two pictures show the current status:

Since my vacation is coming to an end, the shipyard is now being exchanged for the home office. Nevertheless I hope to finish the "Knee of the Head" next weekend.
 

The description of my  reconstruction you will find here.
 
On Easter Monday the time had finally come. The keel of his majesty's frigate HMS Triton was laid.
 
First the 5 components for the keel were sawn out.

I have simplified the design of the joints considerably, as they will be completely covered later on by further components. I will continue to apply this principle during the further construction in order to adapt the building as far as possible to my craftsmanship.

The first cliff that had to be overcome is the joint between keel and lower stem. I worked this out with my milling machine and chisels.

 
After I had attached the wrong keel, the joints have to be dowelled. These dowels are a bit too big for the chosen scale, but I cannot draw pear wood thinner than 0.8 mm. I know that many modellers swear by bamboo, but I find pear on the finished model more discreet.

I have simulated the caulking with single-ply pulp.

Lift Template Construction
     With the completion of these lift templates I will, at last, be ready to begin construction of the model. To make these templates I start with the 28 station line drawings of the body plan and carefully draw a vertical centerline.  Then I draw a horizontal line that marks the bottom of the keel.  That line includes the 1/16" I add for elevating the keel above the building board.  I draw another horizontal showing where the top of the keel is.  This line is also the bottom of the first lift.  Next, starting from that line, I draw horizontal lines, 1" apart going up.   These are the lift lines looking end on.  Each line is drawn using a different color.  I bought an eight color set of Pilot gel pens that worked quite well.  After these lines were drawn I measured from the centerline outward to the line that delineated the shape of the hull.  I did this for all lift lines on all 28 station line drawings.  There were over 190 measurements.  Now I had to plot these on a half breadth plan.  Actually it was a hybrid plan I made using three half breadths.  It was just easier for me to see the lines this way.  Photos 3 and 4 show this.  It is VERY IMPORTANT to plot the widest measurement of each lift.  As you go up the widest mark will be on the top of the first several lifts.  When you get to the tumblehome the widest measurement will be on the bottom of the lift.  Always check because any mistake can lead to wood cut to the wrong dimensions.  After all these lift template lines were plotted it was time to trace their shape on the 8 grids per inch Mylar.  I ALWAYS allow for an extra 3/16" to 1/4" for much of the lift, and as much as 3/8" or more to the bow and stern.   You really don't want to be too short or too narrow.  Excess wood can be easily removed, but the other way around can cost you wood, or worse, force you to start over again.  Care with drawing the Mylar templates is an absolute necessity!  Photo 4 shows a completed template, cut inside and out, over the half breadth drawing.  One of the things I've done to help me in this layout work is to draw the lift lines on a copy of Chuck's external sheer drawing.  Photo 6 shows the completed set of lift templates.  This marks the end of my preconstruction work, so now it's time to make some sawdust.

Your counter is looking really nice.

It took a while, but I finally completed the templates.  There was a lot of work to get them just right.  I had to check them and recheck against the Mylar cutouts, and then see how they looked next to the adjacent templates.  Once I was satisfied they were accurate I then proceeded to finish them with three coats of polyurethane and a final 220 grit sanding.  I seal the templates with polyurethane to prevent moisture absorption that might warp them, and to make it much easier to clean pencil lead from them.

Nicely done, Ron! Listen to Chuck - he knows his shi...I mean stuff.

Hey, this is the fastest I've done anything in a long time! Thank you Chuck for making the counter so easy to plank with your laser cut precision. This is the second time now that I didn't follow through on freely given, valuable advice. First time we all know was the Baltic Birch thing. 2nd thing Chuck mentioned was to only pencil in one side of the planks as doing 2 sides becomes too dark. Thankfully it will be covered with a frieze and I have learned a valuable lesson! Ron, Pay attention to your betters! (when in my juvenile delinquency have I heard that?) Anyways, joking aside, I'm happy with the way the counter looks but I know I messed up somewhere. I can't wait until my next build when all of this trepidation and anxiety turns into experience! Curious, does it hurt to throw a coat of WOP on the counter prior to frieze application?

I would buil the jig much higher, that you can build the complete keel and stem for putting it on the jig. Perhaps a design as for a paper model with a horizontal board is a good idea.

 
This is a picture of my jig I tried to build the Skuldelev ship III. My biggest mistake, was to use a stepped design for the jig. It's much easier to mark the position of every plank, than you dont't have truble with the small inaccuracies during the build.

A really informative buildlog, Ben. I like your idea, to show some dummy frames.

Hartelijk welkom in de Winchelsea werf. Ik wens je heel veel plezier met dit mooie project.
Welcome to the Winchelsea shipyard. I wish you a lot of fun with this beautyful project.
 
 

Having completed the AVS, I can finally start this new and long awaited project.
Indeed, it's been two years now that the kit has been waiting for. I really wanted to finish my work on the Virginia in order to gain some experience.
I chose this project because it is an example of the best in the world of model shipbuilding. The kit is of the highest quality and the instruction manual is a model of perfection.
Moreover, I have many logs on this site and they are all very informative. I will try to show myself up to the height.
 

 
When I bought the kit from Syren, I immediately ordered the wood necessary for its construction.
The wood comes from Wood Project Source and it is really of excellent quality.
I opted for two types of wood: the hull will be Cherry wood and the deck will be Castello Boxwood.
 

The quality of laser cutting is truly exceptional.
 

I start by assembling the 2 parts of the keel.
The gluing is done between 2 plates of glass in order to have a really flat surface.
 

A first blank assembly of the different elements of the keel only reinforces my opinion on the quality of the kit. Everything fits together perfectly.
 

The stem is assembled.
I feel like it's going to be pure pleasure
 
 

Hi there
Finally finishing all outside works on my model.




 

Hi all.
I decided make quick update about my cross section last time this year.
I done rigging for gun carriages. Looks good for me.
But next model i definitely will be made without any rigging:)
 

 
 
 

 

 

 

 
Thanks to anyone.
And HAPPY NEW YEAR!!!
 

The rigging looks great.
 
 Well, I hope that is a New Year's wish that is not to be held to. Happy New Year! Happy modelling! Stay safe from COVID!
 
(We have a friend aged 60 who was begged by her daughter to come over for Christmas as she'd cooked so much food. The daughter on the day said her food tasted weird, so didn't eat much. The daughter then had a raging temperature and it turns out she had COVID. Our friend rang this morning to say she herself had just been tested positive. I am pretty sure that there will be stories from all over the UK that will be similar).
 
Tony

Hi everyone, 
I don't know if I can say this but....bollocks to bollards! Darn did I have a time with them. I burned through the included laser cut pieces and ended up making some of my own blanks. I still haven't gotten them quite right so I haven't glued them in yet.  As it stands, CHAPTER 1 is DONE!!!!! Adding the 1/8 fairing strips and hance pieces sure gives this ship some beautiful lines. Yep, I think I was a little over zealous with the red paint  Thank God it gets mostly covered up! As always, thank you for the likes and encouragement. 
 
 

Received a package today from Chuck and got a few things assembled. Parts fit very well, I'm impressed with the accuracy of the laser cut parts and I"m even more impressed with the quality of the wood! Fantastic stuff!!

I have a shameful confession: since the beginning of the build, I've never actually read who Oliver Cromwell was further than a basic summary. "Some aristocratic British dude, whatever, I like the model". In hindsight that was not the smartest thing, it's like picking a rare name for your child without googling it first 🤦‍♂️
Over the last year I found more and more articles about him and his legacy, and it started to smell pretty bad. History (and the present) have had enough brutal authoritarian tyrants, and Cromwell was a pretty dedicated one. I started feeling shame and disgust when opening my own build log, like it's a dirty word that may be actually offensive. I hereby apologise to Irish for my ignorance..   Luckily, there is a way out without deviating from history - that ship was renamed once it was captured by HMS Beaver. The new name was very creative - "Beavers Prize" - probably to make sure nobody would contest the origin of the vessel   It's great! It has no relation to any historical figures, a bit humorous and may work as a conversation starter  The spelling is not so obvious (Beaver's Prize is also used), but I would use the simpler spelling with no apostrophe, same as on the original NMM plans.  So from now on this log is renamed accordingly.  Horrah to the Beaver!      There are a few modifications that need to be done. When captured, it was measured and the plans were drafted. While there, some improvements were suggested and then implemented: * Second double-level capstan (I guess capstans were like clamps - you can never have too many) * Improved lower deck layout * Fore mast moved ahead a bit * New galley stove installed   Quote from the Hahn's book "Ships of The American Revolution":   Suggested changes are drawn as a dotted line on the NMM plan:    I really like that changes, especially the second capstan - it would make the quarter deck a bit more interesting.   P.S.: the actual construction is going well, all treenails are in place and I'm sanding and scraping the internal planking. Will post photos once that phase is completed.

You're right. And you use a primary source. That's the reason why I said that I will rethink my ideas. 
Can you give me a date for the logbook-entry? Was it fore of after the large repair from 1780/82?