AnobiumPunctatum

First draft of clay sculpture

No its a bit darker.  I posted them for download so go ahead and download them and print them out.  Set your printer on the highest print quality.  Its hard to say.  It looks different in photos depending on the lighting.  For example this photo was taken with my Iphone.  It looks different than the blue in the photo below it.  But its the same model.....taken a few minutes apart.  Its probably somewhere between the two in reality.   Although my camera takes better pictures.  Thats the bottom photo which is what i use for my log photos.
 
 
 

 

 

Hi all – and Happy New Year.
 
Thanks as always for the comments and likes. 
I hope you will enjoy this final installment of the Leviathan build log.
 
With the completion of the model itself, I turned to its display.  Under the contract I was asked to set the waterline model in a seascape for exhibition in the museum.  Here is how I went about it –
 
The model was located on a board of ¾” furniture grade plywood that allowed about 4 to 6 inches all around.  To help show a bit of movement, there was just a bit more space allowed at the stern than at the bow.  The model was secured in place with several screws from underneath.
 
Before being screwed down a long strip of kitchen plastic wrap was laid between the model and the board.  The excess all around was folded up and lightly taped to the hull to protect it from the plaster sea.  Around the perimeter of the board a ¼” lip was created with wooden strips.

The space between the lip and the model was filled with premixed vinyl spackle from the hardware store.  The tub of product can be seen in the left of the above picture.  Three layers were needed to reach the full depth of ¼” since the plaster shrinks a bit and cracks when applied too thickly.

The plaster was shaped to illustrate a moderately calm sea.  In the middle layer a palette knife was used to impose some swells and waves, but nothing too choppy.   The final thin layer of plaster was textured with a damp sponge as it dried to show the random small peaks and valleys of a moving sea.  I used a piece cut from a large wallpaper sponge which has a lot more large open holes rather than a denser kitchen sponge. 

The texturing process was repeated several times until I was satisfied with the results and the plaster layers were fully built up.  This process can be continued as many times as desired, and even removed and redone, all without danger to the model itself.

When the sea was dry the model was removed, the plastic wrap discarded and the model replaced.  Any gaps were filled and the bow wave was laid in with a small spatula.  Now the coloring could begin. The first color was straight black, laid into the deepest hollows.  Although most were generally parallel, random spots and lines were painted on as well.  I took the opportunity to paint the lips and edges as well.

Medium blue was painted over the whole surface, followed by dark green.  The tops of wave peaks were left white, as was the wake around the ship.

These rough colors were tempered by multiple coats of gloss Liquitex medium tinted with color.  Dark blue was applied several times, and light green as well.  Flat white highlighted crests, and even some deeper foam.  These latter were ‘sunk’ into the sea with more transparent layers of blue and green.

Along the sides of the ship there was little in the way of wake, the ship moving slowly as it approached harbor.  There were some diagonal wakes shown where the pressure waves would have impacted the hull, but these were severely muted with green tinted gloss.  Similarly, the water alongside the hull was lightened to show its disturbance by the ship’s passage.

At the stern the chop from the four propellers was mottled with white, stippled with a dry brush and, again, toned down and ‘sunk’ with tinted glaze.

The beauty of this method is that the colors and tints, and even the white highlights, can be altered and adjusted almost indefinitely until the desired shape, color, tint and reflectance is reached.

With so many transparent and translucent layers, the water looks deep and changes hue with changes in light and viewing angles, just like the real sea.

So here she is.  Finished.  The troop ship, port side.

And the ocean liner with the photo reversed to show the same port side.

The model’s bow showing the contrasting presentations.

And the photo cropped and mirrored to show how each might have been seen as a whole ship.


So now I bid a fond farewell as she sails off to her permanent home in the museum of the American Merchant Marine Academy at King’s Point, NY, on the shores of Long Island Sound. 

If you can, it is well worth a trip to this wonderful little museum.  You can also book a tour of the school where you can view many more excellent models and even take the helm in a bridge simulator.
 
Meanwhile, I have been working on the next project for the museum.  It is a Great Lakes whaleback steamer called the SS James B. Colgate.  It was a bulk grain and ore carrier launched in 1892 and sunk in a storm in 1916.  I will post photos soon.
 
Till then, thanks for following along.
 
Be well.
 
Dan
 
 

Mark so far I have not found any specification for it. What I did find is one on the bolsters. It says that it is to go up to the middle of the Hawse hole, and go I believe it was either a inch/ inch and half over the edge of the lower cheek. Figure that it couldn't be to thin, the bolsters that is, so figure that maybe 5 or 6 inches thick on that and what ever is left over would be the liner,which would be 6 inches. Not set in stone good sir that is untill some one figures it out.  I set the bolster there but still have to thin it down a bit from the top of it to the edge of the cheek. Gary

Hi druxey. You are total right sir and models do show the bolsters sitting back from the edge a inch or two which I believe was done to make the models look good. I also think it was done with most model's, guess you could say the model builders used what we call today a little artistic freedom. ; o)  At least that is what I have seen when I look at most of them. Which to me looks a lot better then having it stuck out over the cheek it self.  On a different note, with it sticking out a inch or two over the edge, seem's it  would help the anchor rope with the bending and protect the cheek it self from being rubbed away and weaking it.  Any way thats my way of looking at it. I did find the infomation on this in a contract of 1782, which was also used to build the Bellerophon of 1805 and the book Scantlings of the Royal Navy ships page 224.  The contract and the book both say that the bolsters should come up at least two thirds and to project the cheeks 3/4 of a inch contract,  and the book gives it 1 3/4. Any way thats my story and am probably stick to doing them with a little artistic freedom, looks better. ;o)  I added a photo of the Warrior If any one is interested in seeing it.  Gary

Thanks guys. If feels good and as you said there just doesn't seem to be enough hours in the day to get every thing done. But I am really enjoying my self.  Any way here is a couple of photos of the shop and addition to it. I added it in where do you do yours.  

Hi Kris,
 
here a link to a beautyful model of the Oseberg ship on the webpage of Arbeitskreis historischer Schiffbau.
I think it is a lot easier to draw your model in scale 1:1 and make only the prints in the scale you will build your model. In 1/32 a lot of details will be very fragible. I think 1/25 or 1/20 are much easier to build.
Most measurments you will find in books from good old Europe give metric measurements.

I've missed your updates on your beautyful build. It's good to see that you will continue.

Welcome to MSW, Tom. I hope you will show your development of your Fly and Coureur also here on MSW.
 
Thanks to Chuck and the whole team behind the scene for solving the copyricght-issues.
 
@cafmodel
do you have some issues with your website? If I click n the pictures I can reach some models but not by your menu. What is the current standing of your Bellona kit. I couldn't see any information about.

Wow, that is the appearance I like to create also for my HMS Triton. It's a fantastic result

Welcome to MSW, Tom. I hope you will show your development of your Fly and Coureur also here on MSW.
 
Thanks to Chuck and the whole team behind the scene for solving the copyricght-issues.
 
@cafmodel
do you have some issues with your website? If I click n the pictures I can reach some models but not by your menu. What is the current standing of your Bellona kit. I couldn't see any information about.

Welcome to MSW, Tom. I hope you will show your development of your Fly and Coureur also here on MSW.
 
Thanks to Chuck and the whole team behind the scene for solving the copyricght-issues.
 
@cafmodel
do you have some issues with your website? If I click n the pictures I can reach some models but not by your menu. What is the current standing of your Bellona kit. I couldn't see any information about.

Welcome to MSW Tom....
 
Yes indeed this is true...I am very excited to say.  😁
 
Over the last few weeks I have worked with Tom at CAF to introduce him to Didier Berti of Ancre.  It was my hope that if these two could discuss the issues at hand that some sort of agreement could be reached.   It has been and I am thrilled to announce that they have formed an agreement which takes both past sales of Ancre related kits and future sales into consideration.   I would also like to thank Kerry Jang who was instrumental in this process.   
 

With this licensing agreement between Ancre almost finalized, I can announce officially the lifting of the ban we placed on all CAF kits.  I also welcome Tom and CAF models to MSW where I expect he will become a cherished member and hopefully sponsor.   So if you intend on building any CAF kit please do start a build log and ask Tom for assistance.   
 
Here is a link to the CAF website....https://www.cafmodel.com/
 
This should make it perfectly clear that our main focus at MSW and the NRG was indeed the act of pirating kits and the theft of intellectual property.  It was not a vendetta against any individual or country.  

We have removed all reference to CAF being banned on MSW....Everyone should enjoy building CAF kits and I insist that you start a build log when you get started!!!
 
Everyone....Please join me in welcoming Tom from CAF models!!!!
 
Chuck
 
 
 
 
 
 

Hello all,  I'm Tom from Shanghai, China. My English is not very good. I use Google translation software to communicate   I am very grateful to MSW, the communication platform, for letting me see a lot of excellent works, for letting me see a lot of production experience, and for letting me learn and progress from it   Now I have a small studio cafmodel. We mainly develop the kit of the model,   Previously, La salamander, Le Requn, La Belle, La renommee, La jacinthe, HMS enterprise, HMS Bellona have been developed   At the beginning, I didn't pay attention to the copyright, but now I gradually understand that my product has the problem of infringement, and I think I should make changes   I make a statement   CAF models has recently been contacted by Chuck Passaro of the Nautical Research Guild. I am very thankful for his guidance. Chuck has worked with me to address my use of Ancre plans for my kits that all of you are familiar with. He has made it possible for me to meet Mr.Berti of Ancre so we can discuss rectifying the situation. He introduced me to Mr Berti. I apologize to Ancre for copying their plans without permission or compensation and through this introduction I have now come to an agreement with Ancre which now enables me to sell my kits with a legitimate relationship between us. I appreciate the time and professional relationship I now have with Chuck, Didier Berti and the NR G. Chuck has informed me that CAF models and my kits will now be welcomed on Model Ship World and I am very grateful for this. Thank you   I hope to get the understanding of Ancre publishing house that I will stop selling all infringing products before obtaining production authorization   Tom

Wow, that is the appearance I like to create also for my HMS Triton. It's a fantastic result

The stern framing in the quarter gallery area has been redone again and finally I think it's right.  
I've also completed the bollard timbers though I haven't glued them in place yet.
I'm holding off until after I complete the lower counter planking. Just a quirk of mine.
This completes the 1st chapter!
 
I want to wish everyone a happy Thanksgiving. With the holiday and then taking the Admiral on
a vacation the Winnie will be in dry dock for a couple of weeks. I won't even have access to MSN
while we're away. Sigh. See you all in a couple of weeks.
 

 

 

Thanks for the kind words Mark. And also for all the likes.
 
Well I'm back from vacation and though it's cold and snowy out it's warm in the workshop.
 
I spent the afternoon running the baton strip to mark the bottom of the wales. I'll look them over
again tomorrow, after ugh work, with a fresh eye.
 
Next up I'll cut the pieces for the lower counter.
 

 

 

 
 
 

 

Hi, got a couple of hours in today, sanded the gundeck and one coat of matt varnish, it's going to need another fine sanding and another coat. Also started to paint the wales black. 
Thanks to all for your support and interest 👍
Cheers 😀

Hi, finished planking the gundeck,  just need to sand it and matt coat it. Things will slow down a bit now because of Christmas. Too much other stuff to do. 
Thanks for the likes 😀
Cheers 👍

Hi, I've cut the top of the stern to shape, and dry fitted it, not completely sure about it!! There be some remodeling yet. 
The internal bulwarks have been faired, lots of dust and very awkward to do, and the first planks have been glued. Once the bulwarks  are planked I will carry on with the deck planking. 
Cheers 👍😀
Thanks for the likes. 

I’m using couple of right-angle steel plates to make sure the bulkheads are parallel to the keel. Also, since some of the plywood bulkheads are a little warped, I decided to glue some square reinforcement pieces between the bulkheads. This should also add quite a bit off rigidity for the fairing process.
 

 

I agree, Greg.  That cradle adds a lot to the model.
 
I am using 1/4" basswood plywood for the backbone and bulkheads.  The thickness will result in a stronger structure and will give a better gluing surface for the planking.  The backbone is made from three pieces and the joints are supported with a strip of scrap.  You can see the section between stations F and 16 that will have the lower deck completed.  To make cutting the rabbet easier, the upper part was sanded into the backbone before the keel/stem assembly was added.  At station O, the angle of the rabbet gradually increases from 45 degrees to 90 degrees and the width therefore becomes more narrow.  Just below station FP, where the angle is 90 degrees, the entire width of the rabbet is on the stem.  

The keel, stem and sternpost are made from costello boxwood.  The false keel is pear.  The width of the keel is 10.5" based on the RMG plan.  This is narrower than the 12.5" dictated in the Establishments but this difference most likely is because Swallow was designed as a merchant cutter, not a military sloop.  I do not have any pictures showing the construction sequence, but it is straight forward.  The keel was made from three pieces, scarfed together and secured with six bolts.  Black paper was inserted into the joints to simulate felt.  A 45 degree bevel was cut into the keel from station 14 going forward for the rabbet.  Aft of station 14, the deadwood starts and the angle changes.  The plan does not show structural details for the stem and I was unable to determine the structure from the model.  Based on other ships of this size and era I came up what I feel is a reasonable guess.  The width of the stem is 12" at the head, diminishing to 8" at the keel.  These joints also have black paper to represent felt.  Brass wire was inserted through the inner part of the stem to secure the pieces together.  The pictures show the stem before the rabbet was cut.  The bottom of the keel is curved fore and aft.  In order to keep the hull stable on the building board, I added scrap basswood to the bottom of the false keel.


The photo shows a test fit between the backbone and the keel/stem assembly.

Although this picture is taken out of sequence, it shows how the keel and stem were bolted together.

 
 
 

Good morning.