AnobiumPunctatum

Thank you very much for taking the time for me I appreciate it. 

Thank you Glenn and Brian. Also thanks for all the likes.
 
Moving aft I added the framing jig just like at the bow. Six of the aft frames and then the last gun port frames were added. After that the last frames were filled in the gap. I'll start fairing these frames before I add the wing transom and quarter pieces.
 
Everything is coming along nicely!
 

Pegasus!!

It's looking really good. Let a little bit more meet on the outside of the frames. This makes it easier to fair the hull after installing all frames.

Have a look in the log of Jorge. He describes especially the start of his project really detailed.

I am not sure, but the first deck you need is the lower deck (orlop). More important is the gundeck which is midships fully visible.
For the keel you can use the keel drawing. There are some detail drawings which should help to cut out the parts. Have a look to the different build logs in the forum. I think they are really helpful, to find your way in the project.

If you print the parts of the model check on your program that the scale of the printout is 100% and not fitted to sid or something similiar. You can check the scale of each print out with the ruler shown on every PDF. It is given the length  of 10 feet in the scale 1/48. In metric scale it's exact 63.5mm. Don't worry about your thoughts. It's the beginning of a really long journey. For me the MSW project was also the start in scratch building.
If you have not much experience I can recommend the cross section as a really  good entry point. It hase the same scale as the full hull build but is much less complicated.

If you like to use thinner bulkheads you have to rework the cutout in the centerboard. Forwards from middle bulkhead (0) you have to change the fore edge of the cutout and backwards the after edge.
Then everything should work again. What is the thickness of the centerboard? 

1/48 is a real nice scale. If you have the space at home for the finished model I would go with this scale.The original drawings in the RMG are in this scale.
 
I am a bit surprised. As far as I know the PDF's of the drawings are in 1/48 prepared. You should also have access to the POF drawings. They are a really good add on for a POB build and in 1/48.
If you need to scale a PDF you can simply change the scale by printing. The cross section was many years ago my first wooden try.

3/8''  = 9,5mm I think this is really thick for the bulkheads and the centerboards. 1/4'' = 6,35mm is looking ok for a model in 1/48 or 1/64. If you choose a smaller scale you can make the bulkheads thinner.
In which scale do yoou plan to build her?
I wisch you a lot of fun on your journey.

Just finished up the bench lockers. I really enjoyed making them

Mike

Wonderful progress. It's really nice to see, that people give this old group project a try or continue their build.

Hi folks,
 
Apologies for the delay since my last update but I have had a couple of weeks away from the bench after having a minor operation. I am now back on the build and have spent the last couple of weeks working on the fashion pieces. This was fairly tricky delicate work for me so I thought it best to wait until I had everything in place before making this update.
 
I spent a lot of time making sure I had the wing transom square and level and even as any mistakes here would affect much of the rest of the build. I also undertook a fair amount of work on the fashion pieces before I glued the wing transom in place. On the underneath of the port side of the wing transom two scores need to made into which the uprights of the timber port will later sit and of course these scores need to be made before the wing transom is glued to the sternpost.
 
According to David's instructions, the fashion pieces are 9" thick but are actually formed out of two layers of wood. This first layer is 6" thick and sits flush with the aft side of the wing transom. Later in the build a 3" thick section will be added to the rear of the fashion pieces and this will help form the rabbets for the transom and hull planking. I read the instructions several times but for some reason I still managed to make my initial shapes for the two fashion pieces out of 9" thick wood! Luckily it was easy to thin these down to the correct thickness when I realised my mistake. Shaping and beveled each fashion piece to sit flush with the underneath of the wing transom and slot into the notches on the sternpost was quite a job for me but I took everything very slowly and only removed the smallest pieces of material each time until I was satisfied with the fit. Using a variety of squares and levels and clamps I was able to place the wing transom correctly and this was glued and pinned in place.



The starboard fashion piece was then glued to the sternpost and wing transom. I really couldn't figure out a good way to clamp these odd shaped pieces together so I had to resort to just holding it in place for a minute or two whilst the pva set.
 
The two uprights which form the vertical sides of the timber port were then cut from 6'' square stock. The top of each upright was then beveled to match the angle of the underside of the wing transom. The port fashion piece is made up from two sections of material, the main piece itself and then a triangular piece with forms the horizontal lower sill of the timber port. Two scores were also cut in this lower sill for the the bases of the two uprights. The port fashion piece was then glued to the sternpost and the wing transom and then the two uprights for the timber port were slotted and glued into place.

I tried very hard to get my cuts and joins as clean and neat as possible but I did find that there were one or two very small areas where I had the tiniest gaps - as you can see with the bottom of the timber port uprights above. I will mix up some dilute pva and sawdust and fill these in and hopefully they will blend away when I give the fashion pieces a quick sand in the next day or two. I am trying to be as clean and accurate as I can with my work but at the same time I am aware of a delicate balancing act between ambition and skill - I'd like everything to be perfect but I also have to appreciate my limitations and sometimes you just simply know that your attempt is as good as it is going to get!

I left plenty of excess wood on the outer edges of the fashion pieces to give me lots of room for fairing in the correct lines when the hull is eventually faired.
 

Thank you for your comments and yes, I can see exactly what you're talking about, now that I have all the frames cut and sanded and on the center board, I hope not to half to redo all that work. I'm hoping to fair just enough to give me meat enough to glue the planking on. Fingers crossed   

Looking more carfuly I think I can see how it works it looks like the gun port lintal go between the ribs from inside the hull not from outside but some of the notches are on the opposite side in the plans that's why I'm confused well hopefully it will all come together during assembly 

Ok I'm pretty sure I understand everything you are telling me; I would like to say Thank you for taking time to chat with me about my build it means allot I'm thinking everything is in good shape the way it printed its just my lack of understanding with all this. I have build a few boats and from plans much like these but all of those had all the work done all I had to do was cut and glue  with this there's allot of things to consider and I just want to try my best to get things as correct as posable in the beginning foundation of the build in an attempt to avoid future problem's as I get deeper into the ship. Origenaley in the beginning I was thinking 3/8 might be too big to build my frames out of but I went and got a piece of 1/4 and cut it out and the uprights look to small, and flimsy was wondering would you recommend I use 1/4 or the 3/8'' stock?

If you print the parts of the model check on your program that the scale of the printout is 100% and not fitted to sid or something similiar. You can check the scale of each print out with the ruler shown on every PDF. It is given the length  of 10 feet in the scale 1/48. In metric scale it's exact 63.5mm. Don't worry about your thoughts. It's the beginning of a really long journey. For me the MSW project was also the start in scratch building.
If you have not much experience I can recommend the cross section as a really  good entry point. It hase the same scale as the full hull build but is much less complicated.

If you print the parts of the model check on your program that the scale of the printout is 100% and not fitted to sid or something similiar. You can check the scale of each print out with the ruler shown on every PDF. It is given the length  of 10 feet in the scale 1/48. In metric scale it's exact 63.5mm. Don't worry about your thoughts. It's the beginning of a really long journey. For me the MSW project was also the start in scratch building.
If you have not much experience I can recommend the cross section as a really  good entry point. It hase the same scale as the full hull build but is much less complicated.

1/48 is a real nice scale. If you have the space at home for the finished model I would go with this scale.The original drawings in the RMG are in this scale.
 
I am a bit surprised. As far as I know the PDF's of the drawings are in 1/48 prepared. You should also have access to the POF drawings. They are a really good add on for a POB build and in 1/48.
If you need to scale a PDF you can simply change the scale by printing. The cross section was many years ago my first wooden try.

Over the weekend I completed the construction of the inboard side of the transom. My goal was to leave as little gap filling as possible. No easy task, for sure. The red paint work still needs to be completed, just not into it right now.
Bench lockers
So far I've added the four main bench support pieces. I made sure that they where all equidistant from the forward edge of the lower aft platform and the tops where even with each other. I had to add some filler pieces to the outer two supports where they come in contact with the counter. You can see that in the above photo. There a two more support pieces that sit against the cabin planking which I will add later on.

Mike

3/8''  = 9,5mm I think this is really thick for the bulkheads and the centerboards. 1/4'' = 6,35mm is looking ok for a model in 1/48 or 1/64. If you choose a smaller scale you can make the bulkheads thinner.
In which scale do yoou plan to build her?
I wisch you a lot of fun on your journey.

The reconstruction is from Werner Bruns. He is a member of the "Arbeistkreis historischer Schiffsbau e.V." But I did not know if has published his work.

The reconstruction is from Werner Bruns. He is a member of the "Arbeistkreis historischer Schiffsbau e.V." But I did not know if has published his work.

Transom
If you take a Look at the photos in my last post you should be able to see where the cedar transom template had split in a few places. There are actually four cracks overall and were probably caused by my rough handling here and there. They have all been glued back together but remain problematic when prepping for the red paint work ahead. I decided to cover it up with a .010" boxwood veneer made in three parts. I'm very happy with the result and the transom is much stronger than before.
 
I made the inboard transom planking in two parts from 1/32" boxwood. I went with thinner wood which leaves the whole piece flexible enough to conform to the curve of the transom without placing to much stress on the butt joint. I won't glue it in until after it is painted. I also added the margin strip for the quarter deck planking.

Mike