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Danstream

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Everything posted by Danstream

  1. Ok, looking at few period pictures, the exhaust stacks are mainly dark steel color and mainly matt. Hence, after the black base, I sprayed a metallic steel paint (for all the metallic, I use the Vallejo 'Metallic' line, which we discussed in another WIP). After that, to give some tonal variation and also because sometimes I note from pictures that the first tubes are lighter in color than the last ones, I added some gold to the steel that remained in the airbrush and sprayed with that mix the first tubes trying to obtain a color gradient between them. This was quite subtle and can be noticed in the second last picture. Let's say that it was more something for fun than really necessary. At that point, because the part was very shiny, I sprayed a mist of matt 'Dark German Grey' to mute down everything. Then, after having painted with matt black the interior of the openings, to finish off everything, I rubbed the rims of the tube openings with the graphite of a pencil tip. As said, it was more for having fun than else. Best regards, Dan
  2. Hi, finally, once competed the work with oil colors, I sprayed on everything a coat of matt varnish (a little tip: I mixed few drops of Tamiya smoke into the varnish to age a bit the stark white of the decals). After this step, I could remove the remaining masking materials to reveal the cockpit and its windscreen. The tail dragger went on with its doors (I see that the picture is slightly out of focus, I will take another one later). And also the main landing gear. She is now standing on her legs. The exhaust stack provided by the kit is quite good, but I bought a resin replacement from Eduard which was even nicer having the tubes already hollowed for you. I coated with a black primer. Then, shades of metallic steel and gold followed. Finally, I toned down the shiny finish with a mist of very dark grey. After having painted black the inner tubes, this is the final result: My build is approaching the end, but the final small bits are going to take still some time and it is advisable not to rush at this stage where a small mistake can ruin months of work. Best regards, Dan
  3. Great! You might consider the strange arrangement of seat harness of Italian planes that were a mix of belts and metallic chains. Dan
  4. As usual, I will follow this one. Curious to see how the 'hump' will turn out with paper. Dan PS: the C.200 never had an hinged canopy, early production had a sliding hood, but that was soon eliminated apparently because of the pilots fearing for not being able to bail out.
  5. Thank you all for your messages! In particular: Indeed, I use also browns. Never used yellow as oil colors (used with airbrush to make particular shadows on metallic parts of jet engines). I will give a try to it. Yes, you are right, I very rarely take shots in real sunlight, but that would be the best illumination. I will keep that in mind this time. Cheers, Dan
  6. Thank you for all the likes! With a bit more time in the week end, I went on with the funniest part which is the application of weathering. I use an oil color labelled 'Ivory Black', which once diluted appears as a very dark brown. I thin it with odorless white spirit and spatter it on the parts which I want to treat. I will limit it to the surfaces that could be likely affected by the dirt coming from the engine and to the surroundings of the LG wells, as I sow in period pictures. Once dry, I selectively removed the wash and added by brush some oil leaks and rivet trails. The upper surfaces received the same treatment. The good thing of the oil colors is that you can correct, remove or add them as it most pleases you. I might come back to that if I see it necessary after I let it pause for a while. Finally, I complemented the oil staining with some airbrushed black, which, in my view, is supposed to mimic the staining of the fumes coming for the engine. The light of the desk lamps flattens the contrast, but shades are more visible in person. I don't want to make it too dirty, so I hope you like it like that. Any suggestion is welcome, thanks for following, Dan
  7. Hi, in view of the application of the decals, I sprayed a coat of gloss X-22 on everything. For few days I was busy with the decals and with the service stencils. I find these latter really boring to apply, therefore I omitted at least those that fell within the invasion stripes. I had also few seniority moments and I misplaced the code letters on the fuselage. They couldn't slide easily, so I have to live with that. I also started to highlight some panels and apply discolorations around the engine and ammunition panels. After the decals, I sealed everything with another coat of X-22. It is now ready for some oil color playing. While waiting for the paint to cure, with the help of tracing paper and french curves, I drew the contours of the walkways which will be applied later. I obtained a walkway template which I will transfer on a black painted piece of decal. The decal will be eventually painted with a different black and will be applied after the final coat. That is all for now, thanks for following, Dan
  8. Thanks Alan, it's not hard to get the landing gears fine, in this case the kit parts helped a lot. I just finished the landing gear doors removing an annoying extractor mark, and the is how they look now under the morning light kind regards: Dan
  9. Hi, thanks @king derelict and @landlubber for your kind comments above. Before tackling the finishing of the main airframe, I am tackling now the small bits. I pre-painted with white all the details that need to be yellow, to avoid that the gray substrate make the final yellow shade to appear too cold a tint. I also sprayed the interior of the landing gear well doors with the same color of the underside. After, I applied a clear gloss and some black liner to the doors. In the same picture, you see the landing gear struts cleaned and furnished with a brake line. Then, I applied a very dark grey to the propeller and a black primer to the landing gear. I used the dark grey because I want to reproduce some discoloration of the blades. For this, I sprinkled some sugar crystals on the wet blades and then I sprayed the same dark gray with some more black added to it. It is difficult to capture the result in the pictures, but, in presence, is quite subtle and nice. Finally, these are the landing gear parts, aluminium painted, with some details picked up and with a final coat of matt transparent. That's all for now, thanks for keeping an eye on this build, best regards, Dan
  10. Marvelous finish. And the subject pushes up the cool-meter to end of scale. Well done. Dan PS - you are really fast in building models!
  11. This is an exquisite model, it looks so real. And I love the vintage character of this subject. I congratulate with your skills, but above all, with your capability of remaining focused on the final result, despite all the problems you went through. Well done, Dan
  12. Really nice build, OC. A clean, precise and very well painted model. Congrats, Dan
  13. Hi, I masked the yellow stripes on the leading edge and after having sealed the edges of the tapes, I sprayed a light coat of white and then several coats of yellow. This is the result after removing the tapes which basically conclude the main painting phase of the airframe. The edges of the yellow bands now need some light sanding to eliminate the little ridges that were formed by the many layers of paint, but this is not a problem. On the lower side, I removed the masking material from the wells and started to apply some dirt inside and some slight discoloration on the surrounding surfaces. Thanks for following, cheers, Dan
  14. @Egilman, I am not a big fun of heavy weathered aircraft models, therefore I will keep the dirt and wear constrained anyway, in addition, by coincidence, I had in mind to make this model pretty new, just with a minimum of wear to remove its toy appearance. About the LG doors, good question, I don't remember exactly why, perhaps there were details and tabs which made a perfect closure difficult. Generally, if I can, I close the LG doors as you indicated for masking the wells. By the way, I have now removed the masking material and I am presently working on that area. Thanks for your comments, cheers, Dan
  15. Hi, after having masked the stripes, I sprayed the black color. Actually, it was a mix of pure black with some white to obtain a sort of off-black hue. It was sprayed in a non-uniform way to leave a blotchy appearance, although not very visible in the pictures. Next, the yellow stripes on the leading edge of the wing will follow. Best regards, Dan
  16. Yesss! Prepared the ones on the fuselage for the black paint: Cheers, Dan
  17. Thank you Mike for you comments and thanks for the 'like's. After the Ocean Grey paint was cured, with the help of tracing paper and a double adhesive tape, I made the camouflage masks reproducing by eyeball the scheme provided in the Eduard's instructions. It is known that RAF had a precise pattern for the camo bands and I tried to reproduce the scheme as accurately as possible. The double adhesive tape kept the masks in place fairy well, but I had to use also normal Tamiya tape and blu-tack to press down and seal the most recalcitrant spots where the masks were too stiff to comply with 3D compound surfaces. Overall, it was not too difficult a job and I even enjoyed it. The the airframe was then ready to receive the Mr Color RAF dark green 361. The color went on flawlessly, leaving a nice satin finish. The final result, with a pile of masking material beside it: The masks worked pretty well, with no obvious overspray. Although I was very positive about the surface details of this kit, now I am rather dubious about the rivet rendering on the fuselage which I am afraid is a bit overstated. If I noticed it earlier I could have it sanded down, but now it is too late. I will be careful not to enhance it with the application of dark oil washes later. I chose to spray the camouflage colors plane, with no tonal variations and I am quite pleased with the results delivered by Mr. Color paints. My intention is to apply some weathering variations later. That's all for now, best regards, Dan
  18. Hi Mike, I love the catapult model. It will be an impressive piece with the Walrus resting on it. Seen that you asked for opinions, I am here firing my own personal one. I am not in favor of making display compositions, I would prefer to see a long rectangular base with the two models side by side. Best regards, Dan
  19. I would believe that the celebration of a 60th birthday with no doubt amply justifies the purchase of the kit of such spiffy and distinctive an airplane sporting that unmistakable camouflage. 😇 Catch the moment, best regards, Dan
  20. Hi all, after a long interruption, I am back to my modeling bench and to this forum. My stay in Florida was quite exciting from professional point of view and also from a personal one. I enjoyed the differences between here and there, met very friendly people, had great food and had great time. I stayed there only two weeks working at Cape Canaveral and then I spent the rest of the time up to now abroad. In Florida, I could spend a complete Sunday visiting the Kennedy Space Center and I was overwhelmed by viewing the collection of hardware which made the history of space flight. I didn't have yet the opportunity to catch up with the works here, but I will do it in the next days Now I am back home in the Netherlands and today, pleasantly, I resumed the work on my Tempest. I masked the lower lower surfaces and the white parts so that I could start spraying the first color of the camouflage. I used Mr. Color 362 paint which is supposed to reproduce the RAF Ocean Grey. I diluted it to a ratio of 1 to 1.75 (paint to thinner) and spayed in many thin coats. This time I wanted to achieve a rather uniform tonality and the paint went on flawlessly. Now I will proceed with the green as soon as the paint had enough time to cure well. Meantime, this guy landed on my desk for my 66th birthday: You bet this will be soon seen here. Best regards, Dan
  21. A really impressive big model, I like it a lot. Good choice to keep the airbrake closed, I rarely see it in models. This allows to appreciate the complex lines of this aircraft. This model is one of the kit to do on my list. Congrats, Dan
  22. I love this model, it looks like the real thing (In the States, you would say 'like the real McCoy', wouldn't you?). Cheers, Dan
  23. Impressive model! As already said, good paint job for the camouflage. Glad that no sign of the accident with the paint you mentioned is visible. Dan P.S. Just one comment if I may, about the pathfinder antenna ring. Typically the ring didn't have a circular cross section, but it was more like a flat ribbon (where the wire coils were coiled next to each other). I make it with a soldered strip of photo-etch fret. I am making this comment only because of the size of the model it would be noticeable. Otherwise, it looks OK anyway.
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