Cap'n Snack

On 3/1/2022 at 8:30 AM, Landlubber Mike said:

Doesn't the Hasegawa deck instructions tell you whether you need to cut or sand away the plastic details?  I had good instructions on sticking on the linoleum deck appliqué on my Hasegawa destroyer.

Hey LLM! I'm sure you're right about cutting some of the deck details away... but did you simply stick the wooden decking onto the molded deck surface? Or did you chisel away every 'slat' that was molded into the plastic?

On 2/28/2022 at 3:22 PM, JeffT said:

The last one I did was the Missouri. I didn’t remove any deck detail. I glued it down with watered down PVA. 

Thanks JeffT! I'm hoping you're right and I can follow your lead!

On 2/28/2022 at 1:03 PM, mtaylor said:

Have you looked into builds in the kit area?   Many, not just the Mikasa, use aftermarket wooden decks.  What I've observed while not having done a plastic ship model is decades, is that many of the molded bits have to be removed as aftermarket parts (PE usually) replace them.

Thanks for the advice; I agree, many of the original plastic parts will need to be cut away or replaced, but I'm just not sure if  have to remove the molded deck as well.

Hello all!

I will soon begin on the Hasegawa 1:350 Mikasa, and was wondering if anyone could direct me to a resource, or let me know about adding the wooden decks to it?

Do I need to scrape away the molded deck? Or does the adhesive simply go over top of it?

Any info would be a great help, and thanks in advance!

Cap'n Snack

This is incredible as usual, RGL. Great inspiration!

On 4/8/2021 at 2:22 PM, Landlubber Mike said:

 I can share my thoughts on it when it arrives, but based on the other build log I linked above, it looks fantastic.

Thanks LLM! I'll keep my eyes peeled... jesus, just typing that made me really examine that statement.

Peeled eyes? Gross.

Well, waited too long and now the sets are all gone from eBay... gotta remember to act when I see something, otherwise... POOF!

On 3/26/2021 at 2:11 PM, Landlubber Mike said:

Not to add to the pile of aftermarket, but take a look at this guy's build - you can see why getting your hands on the Super Detail set is going to be worthwhile.  PE experience a must!

 

http://cs.finescale.com/fsm/modeling_subjects/f/7/t/185042.aspx?page=-1

 

 

 

One thing he mentioned is that he purchased a laser card set from some guy in Korea to help supplement and detail his build.  Some of the details really look incredible.  I'll probably pick it up once I figure out what is involved.

 

https://m.blog.naver.com/PostView.nhn?blogId=jhchi1&logNo=220890705230&proxyReferer=&proxyReferer=https:%2F%2Fblog.naver.com%2Fjhchi1%2F220890705230

 

 

 

Stunning work there! It's been my dream to build this thing for years, so i wanna do it right... and I KNOW it's going to go slow. But that's what I want... great inspiration, thanks!

On 3/29/2021 at 7:01 AM, knightyo said:

 

Man I wish the photos on that site enlarged more.  The detail on that model is insane!  Just stunning detail when looking under the deck at  the structures  at the bow and stern.

 

Alan

 

 

I agree! it's absolutely incredible!

On 3/19/2021 at 9:59 AM, Landlubber Mike said:

Here are pictures of the aftermarket I have for the kit:

 

Detail Up Super:

 

 

The individual detail sets A, B and C (QG26 - QG28):

 

 

General jackstay (QG29) and deck (QG25):

 

 

As you can see, the Detail Up Super is completely different from the other three sets.  I would say that if you are planning to build the Akagi and really want to build it out into its full impressive glory, you kinda need that set.  It has all the intricate bridge-like lattice work under the deck which are a great detail on the model.  That, along with the giant hinomaru on the deck and general reverence for the ship, is what sold me on the model.

 

I had also randomly come across these aftermarket sets for fairly low prices so picked them up as well.  Couple of Eduard PE (53047 and 53063) sets.  My guess is that most are duplicative of the Hasegawa sets, but maybe some are better, some are in addition to the Hasegawa sets, always nice to have spares, etc.  Also, I picked up those Master barrel sets.  It's been a while since I thought about this kit, but I believe that the kit and Hasegawa and Eduard aftermarket sets do not replace the standard plastic barrels on the kit.  

 

 

 

Planes Aftermarket:  I didn't take pictures as the boxes are elsewhere, but you can also add additional plane sets:  QG30 for carrier planes, and QG40 for ship-borne seaplanes.  Infini also makes a really nice PE upgrade set for the planes in IMP 35051RI.  

 

 

Hope that helps, I know I was really confused and assumed that the Detail Up Super included everything.  Personally, I find Hasegawa's approach of breaking up the aftermarket sets into multiple sets some of which have the same names (like Fret A) very confusing.  Fujimi is almost worse with their G-up lines of aftermarket.  I much prefer the approach of aftermarket companies like Pontos, Infini, Fivestar, etc. which allow you to buy all upgrades in one box.

 

What I don't know is whether Hasegawa plans to re-release these aftermarket sets in the future.  Might be worth trying to track them down when you can just in case they don't, or they end up overhauling the kit to the point where the new aftermarket doesn't work with the version of the model you have.

Fantastic help, LLM, thanks so much!

It confirms my concerns; the new Hasegawa Akagi is on its way to me now, along with Detail Set 'B'. I wanted to get the Super set as soon as possible, as it seems to be the toughest one to find, other than the seller in Korea I mentioned (although now a Japanese seller has popped up with one as well for roughly the same price...) The other bits seem a BIT easier to find... and I'm not sure they'll rerelease any of the sets, so better to just get these ones as I can afford them.

Thanks again for your generous time!

On 3/17/2021 at 9:50 PM, CDW said:

 

Generally speaking, I have had very good service when ordering items from Japan, but less than stellar service from Korea. Not sure why, but it seems to take a lot longer period of time to receive goods from Korea. I often receive items from Japan in less than two weeks time, Korea sometimes two months!

An a separate note, each the several photo etch frets/sets contained in that one detail set are available separately. Try to find a close up photo of the set box top. It shows the photo etch fret numbers contained in the set. Maybe Mike will take a look at the box his set came in and list the items numbers of the frets contained in the set for you. 

If I'm not wrong, there's the 'limited edition super set' and then there's sets 'A, B and C' sold separately...  the 'super set' has three frets inside... that i believe are listed as 'A,B and C' which has caused me some confusion.

Thanks for the heads-up on shipping from Korea... I'm not in a rush, I'm just collecting everything I'll need for the Akagi; it's my dream kit!

20 hours ago, Landlubber Mike said:

I think the A, B, C and Detail Up Super sets (not to mention, the separate sets for the wooden deck and General Jackstay) all differ as to what parts of the build they cover (no, or at least minimal, overlap among the various sets):

 

https://www.ipmsusa.org/reviews2/ships/details/hasegawa_350_akagi-details/hasegawa_350_akagi-details.htm

 

 

This seems to be my understanding as well – there's the 'limited edition super set' and then there's sets 'A, B and C' sold separately... as well as LLM's mentioned wooden deck and jackstays sets. The 'super set' has three frets inside... that i believe are listed as 'A,B andC' which adds to my confusion.

I'm pretty sure I need 'em all!

On 3/12/2021 at 6:40 PM, Landlubber Mike said:

Best bet is eBay.  Sometimes they pop up on Amazon too.  I purchased the Akagi with the three (or maybe four, I forget) detail sets from a MSW member a couple of years ago, but I remember looking for the sets back then and seeing them pop up occasionally - sometimes for very big bucks unfortunately.  I'd pick it up wherever in the world you can find it if the price is right.  

 

Put in an eBay saved search for it - a lot of Asian sellers end up listing kits and aftermarket for international sales.  Years ago I would never have bought things from overseas, but the past couple of years, I've managed to source a variety of kits and aftermarket from Japan, China, the UK, France, etc.  My current F4F-4 Wildcat build came from Greece of all places (under $50 with shipping for the kit and a bunch of aftermarket)!

thanks LLM!

I've seen one vendor who seems to have cornered the market for this set on ebay!!

On 3/12/2021 at 5:08 PM, CDW said:

I had two detail up sets but sold them about a year ago. Have you checked for vendors in Japan? It should turn up on Ebay eventually.

That's definitely the only place I've seen the set so far... but only from ONE vendor! They seem to have cornered the market right now!

Thanks for the reply!

Hi All!

I figured I'd ask if anyone is thinking or willing to sell the Hasegawa #40071 Detail-Up Parts Super set?

I'm planning on building the 1/350 Akagi, but this item is long sold-out online (except for one seller on Ebay in Korea...)

anyone not planning on using one in their collection? Or am I completely out of luck?

Thanks in advance!

Absolutely insane work, LLM!

10 hours ago, cog said:

Turned out rather well, especially for a first time build. Next one will be easier, if you do not have to much PE

... well, I AM considering the wooden deck and PE parts for the Mikasa, which seems much more involved.

However, another thing I will do differently is attach the PE details tot he hull and superstructure before painting it. Maybe I'll have more luck that way?

Thanks very much!

1 hour ago, Landlubber Mike said:

Nicely done!  Congratulations!  Mikasa will be a good second one to work on  

Good luck to you Mike whenever you get to your Yukikaze!

Well, I guess I didn't make enough entries for my first Build Log... sorry about that.

I finished the Yukikaze superstructure without any added details (or drama!) choosing to paint the gun mounts a lighter colour (Tamiya XF-75 Kure Arsenal) just to get them to stand out a bit from the rest of the model. After applying a quick wash to them, I think the effect is fine.

CE glue was very difficult to come to grips with. I suppose I worried that I wasn't using enough when applying the PE railings, but everything seems to be hanging on fairly well... if something went on a bit crooked, I chose to leave it, for fear of having to do it all again, and possibly making a mess of the deck... 

I've fallen in love with PE parts though; they make all the difference, and I can see why many people insist on adding them in. Practice will improve my skills I'm sure.

I used EZ-line 'fine' rigging, and in lieu of adding posts or hard points tot he superstructure or hull, I sort of 'winged it' adding them to approx. places on the ship. Not totally accurate, but for me it was an exciting add-on to the model. Again, my fear of CE glue kept me from being as careful as I should have been, but I think I was able to cover up the most egregious blobs of glue (again, to the naked eye it seems acceptable)

Some very light dusting of Tamiya Weathering Master set 'B' (snow, soot and rust) picked out some highlights, and some experimenting with the AK Interactive Weathering Pencils sets (Greens and browns, the 'sepia' colour in particular) helped create rudimentary rust streaks...

I also realized I'd glued the cross-braces near the forward stack backwards. D'oh!

Finally, I attempted to give the paper flags that came with the kit a bit of dimension, so I used watered-down white glue to attach and 'wrap' the flag around a piece of kitchen tin foil... then simply shaped it a bit to look like it's fluttering in the wind. It worked fairly well!

Overall, I realized I'd attempted washes and weathering before applying a semi-gloss coat over the base paint, and that made things a bit rougher than I would have like... also, CE glue was intimidating, but I felt like I was coming to grips with it by the end of the project... 

For my first ship, I enjoyed building this kit a lot and – of course – LEARNED a lot during the process. I THINK Santa is bringing me the 1/350 Hasegawa IJN Mikasa for the holidays, so I will hopefully be evolving my abilities even further.

Thanks to all for good advice, encouragement, assistance and kind words!  C & C very welcome!!!

4 hours ago, amateur said:

From what I have seen from others on this site, eg @Old Collingwood or @RGL, it is a mix of both: some parts to be removed and replaced by PE, others remaining and sticking through the deck.

 

Jan

Thanks very much! I am also assuming it'll be some of both as you say. I hope it's not necessary to shave down all deck textures from the plastic, as that'll take a lot more patience than I possess!

Hi all;

I'm planning my next attempt at ship modelling – the 1/350 Hasegawa Mikasa.

https://www.hlj.com/1-350-scale-ijn-battleship-mikasa-120th-anniversary-of-launch-hsgsp470

After my initial foray into PE parts, I was interested in the wood deck that Hasegawa has available for this model, but had one major question...

Will I simply apply it over the plastic deck on the model? Or do I have to ‘shave down’ the deck details in the plastic before applying?

https://www.hlj.com/1-350-scale-ijn-mikasa-wood-deck-panel-hsgqg48

Any information would be appreciated.

Thanks in advance! 

I am totally using your great work as a guide for rigging my own attempt at the Tamiya 1/350 Yukikaze this weekend! Thanks for taking it on first!!!😀

Okay, here's some more progress...

I drilled out wee little holes in the gun bases for the 12.7 cm Fine Molds PE barrels I bought... not a great picture (sorry) but I'm happy with the results. The metal is primed and ready to paint.

I wasn't too happy with the fit of the turrets; they are molded in 4 pieces (top, sides and bottom) so, using my limited skills, I filled the spaces with Tamiya putty and sanded them down... after a quick layer of primer, I fixed a few more edges as best I could, and am ready to airbrush them.

I've applied the superstructures for the most part... I'm still coming to grips with CA glue (special thanks to everyone who helped out in my other post about that!!) so it looks rough in-camera, but acceptable to me to the naked eye.

The PE ladders supplied with the kit looks great... except for the blob of CA glue I left at the base! Maybe some poor IJN crewman dropped a bucket of paint on his way down the ladder?

The PE 'grill' under the forward superstructure went in nicely, but it 'tipped' out a bit at the top as it was drying. Ah well.

I'm figuring I'll put almost everything on EXCEPT for the absurdly flimsy masts and towers and THEN apply the PE railings... then try my hand at some weathering effects.

Overall, this kit is exactly what I was hoping; a lot of fun, and a GREAT test bed for working with CA glue, TINY parts and PE parts.

On 10/27/2020 at 11:23 AM, James H said:

I use a toothpick (sharpened) and a disposable weighing boat. Just pop a spot into the boat and use the pick to apply. 

Sharpen the pick as necessary. 

 

No need for fancy tools.

 

Admittedly, this is something I tried, along with my 'glue applicator' (which is a fancy plastic version of the toothpick, IMO)

I certainly felt like Godzilla trying to use knitting needles!

15 hours ago, ah100m said:

Amazon has (or have if you're British!) the loopers:

 

https://www.amazon.com/s?k=glue+looper&ref=nb_sb_noss_1

 

They're all I use.  Small and medium for thin CA, large for thick.

I'll head out to the local hobby store on the weekend and see if they have loopers!