Cap'n Snack

16 hours ago, Nunnehi (Don) said:

Don’t want to leave the impression that CA is the be-all and end-all, it’s not. While it’s great in the plastic world, particularly for photo-etch detail stuff, and filling seams and gaps, these also have their place and may be the better tool for the job. Micro crystal clear is great for attaching clear plastic parts and filling portholes. I’ve never used wefalck’s varnish technique and would like to give it a try. 

 

Don

 

Thanks for the tips and the picture!

Love the tips and advice. Thanks to all!

Hi all;

So I'm new to CA glues, and found that my wee squeeze bottle from Tamiya dispenses a LOT more adhesive than I needed (now my Photo-etched 1/350 scale ladders have large blobs at the bottom of them!)

Does anyone have good advice on techniques to dispense JUST the right amount of glue? I tried squirting some onto a tinfoil cup ad dipping my glue applicator into it, but it didn't seem to 'get enough' on the applicator. 

Any tips or tricks are most welcome. Thanks in advance!

21 hours ago, cog said:

Well done so far. Your airbrushing looks very good. Put her on either a styrofoam or towel from now on, any hard surface will damage  the bottom and you will have to repaint. Besides a towel gives you the advantage to slant her when working on her. Looking good mate

Oooh.. really? Good advice! Thanks!

This... THIS is what I'm aspiring to emulate. Great stuff.

So here's a first update: I had a bit of trouble with the hull pieces – not a Tamiya problem, but a 'my clumsy fingers' problem.

I had to work to get the waterline and hull sides to match up without noticeable seams, so I was sanding and touching it all up.

So far, I have the hull pieces together, and some initial deck elements added; also, for the first time, I airbrushed a model! I masked off the 'linoleum deck' sections and am relatively satisfied with the results. After years of relying on spray cans, I realized how delicate an airbrush coating can be, repeatedly leaving fingerprints and such on parts. Gloves on from now on!

Also... I dropped the damn thing when removing the masking, and bent the cleat at the very front of the bow, and the stern a bit. ARGH!

Next step is to detail the deck elements, TRY to add some detail to the 'ribs' on the linoleum deck areas, and move on to the superstructure parts.

Any C&C is welcome (very welcome)! 

Well, now I have an inspirational guide to follow! Great work!

22 hours ago, cog said:

You might have alook at RGL's builds. He did quite a number of builds which he weathered more or less intensive.

Holy smoke, RGL's builds are just what I'm hoping I can get to! Thanks for the tip

17 hours ago, cog said:

You might have alook at RGL's builds. He did quite a number of builds which he weathered more or less intensive.

RGL? They quoted in the feed as well! I'll look 'em up! Thanks

1 hour ago, cog said:

Okay: Luck

 

You'll be weathering her, or build her as if new?

I'd prefer to try my hand at weathering her a bit! Some rust and roughening!

Welp, My IJN Yukikaze arrived!

So I'll start with the 'whole shebang' image of what I have to begin with!

Keep in mind this is my first ship model, and the first time I've ever worked with PE parts!

Wish me luck guys!

21 hours ago, ccoyle said:

They're probably not identical sets in terms of what's included and what isn't, but if they include some of the same items, say grab rails for instance, then those parts should be interchangeable, assuming the sets are for the same time period. It's not uncommon for the plastic masters to buy multiple PE sets and then pick-and-choose which parts they will use from each set.

Thanks for the tip, Chris! Maybe I will try to pick-and-choose as well!

16 hours ago, Louie da fly said:

Hi Cap'n Snack and welcome to MSW. I had to look up what gunpla was. Quite a move from that to ship modelling, but I imagine the skills from on should transfer to the other quite well. 

 

Make sure you start a build log when you begin your model. It is a very good way to get help and advice and encouragement, and we get to see yet another beautiful ship model under way.There are instructions on how to do it here:

 Looking forward to seeing your progress.

Ahh! Perfect introduction to making a log. Thanks very much for the link!

14 minutes ago, VTHokiEE said:

Welcome aboard! Do you have your eyes on a specific model for your first ship kit?

Thanks! 

Actually, I chose the 1/350 Tamiya Yukikaze to begin! I'm keen to see what PE parts are like to work with.

My fantasy is to build a 1/350 Akagi with all the brass bells and whistles!

Hi all!

I'm a mediocre modeller, who comes from the Gunpla realm... I'm keen to try out scale ship models, and wanted to get advice and discover new techniques... this looks like the place to get all of that!

Just saying hello and introducing myself!

Hi all! I'm about to try out my first ship model, and had a question about Photo-Etched or Detail Parts.

I've chosen the 1/350 Tamiya Yukikaze, which comes with a small sheet of PE parts... I was considering it a test-bed for my abilities, and also for discovering what PE parts are like to build with.

My question is; can I use PE parts meant for Fujimi or Hasegawa 1/350 Yukikaze models on the Tamiya model? Does anyone know if the proportions are slightly different, or is it really oranges and oranges? (Probably not)

Any info would be appreciated, and thank in advance!