Toolmaker

I must apologise for my initial answer as I believed you had received the books but were complaining about the time taken for them to be delivered. It was lost in translation. I think you must try to contact Seawatch and follow the advice they offer. Hopefully it will be fixed to your satisfaction.

Dave, I have that same make and model and it has worked fine for as long as I can remember. Maybe ask for an exchange unit. I don’t use mine for soldering but I like it for hardening, annealing etc. I also use it with that tip you are showing for heating wood planks or the like needing removal. Works a treat for softening the glue.

I have also ordered books from Seawatch which arrived. Mine only took 2 weeks and not 4 like yours did but mine were not caught up in the Christmas Post, as I ordered them in the summer. I’m not sure what you want help with?

Maybe this link will help close that circle. Seems like this is where it originated https://ebts.org/uk/2021/the-best-english-boxwood-is-to-be-found-in-wales/

That’s great to know as I have a number of their clamps. I really like them. I thought I might write and tell them that one flew off recently and I haven’t been able to locate it!!! 😂

That’s fantastic Chuck. Is Ed going to be looking in on this forum (in the film)?

Before I became a wooden ship modeller I was in a period of photo etch heaven. I couldn’t get enough of it. This kit was top of my list at the time. I’ve seen the kit in the box and I have seen it finished and it is a fantastic opportunity. I say opportunity as it is also a major challenge. 👍🏼👍🏼

I think it’s safe to look in now Glenn. I’ve just had a nosey around and it’s full of interest for model ship builders (it was orrible before).

Ignoring any issues about import and export when buying model ships I think Chris has done more recently than anyone to retain newcomers to the hobby. A few years ago I cut my teeth on a number of Vanguard kits and whenever I see that question about suitable kits for beginners I always advise starting with a Vanguard kit. It makes even more sense if your this side of the Atlantic pond, hence my opening line. Chris has taken top quality materials and used the latest technologies to provide the best chance of fulfilment. Together with those fab instructions put together by James H and you have a truly winning combination. I hope he continues to have belief in himself and in his decision making. Believe it or not, I don’t work for Vanguard 😂. In fact, I don’t build their kits these days but without them I don’t believe I would have got to what I am building now. Cheers Chris, keep going, it’s a fine legacy. Thanks Paul

I’m in line with OllieS here. It’s likely not an issue with the drop plank in particular but perhaps with enthusiasm for the hobby in general. This hobby enthusiasm ebbs and flows for most people. Some get it back again (sometimes again and again) and some people give up a hobby as, not for them. A hobby is a choice, and one that should be enjoyed. Regarding Cheerful in particular, I am doing the same build. It has been a challenge which is good. It is not perfect, unlike the one in the instruction book which leads to some frustration, but it is a big improvement on my previous build. You could leave the drop plank and go inboard. False deck, inboard planking, deck planking. This might help to restore the passion. I have been building wooden ships for about 4 years and only now do I feel slightly competent. Lastly I mention the hobby working environment. If you don’t like being in the basement then you are unlikely to want to spend time there. Regards Paul

That’s come up really well Richard. Finished in keeping with the effort put in. Fab. Its impressive that the spindle is tapered and even has a drift slot for tool removal. I’m on the watch out for your next build. Thanks Paul

Those heady days when folks continued the carpeting up the side of the bath!

Bob, can you fill me in with a bit more information on the “jeweller’s saw” please. Is it realistic to saw 0.2mm/0.008” wire with the saw. Using a saw relies on at least 2 teeth straddling the material so said material doesn’t fall between the teeth, hence the thinner the material the greater the tpi. If you have the detail, what is the traditional tpi on a jewellers saw or is it a diamond impregnated wire blade? Thanks Paul

Ah yes Allen, I see what you mean. The wire I’m showing was more like 26 gauge. Depending on functionality and if painting is an option, you can get lead wire down to, and finer than, 30 gauge. From a modelling perspective, it has all sorts of uses and is easy to work with. cheers Paul

I would echo what Glenn said above. Here is a link to a typical instruction manual that comes with the Vanguard models. This particular kit is ideal for beginners as the hull shape is forgiving of skill. https://vanguardmodels.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2020/04/Fifie_construction_manual.pdf I hope that is helpful. Regards Paul

Hi Mark, Do you have a link for a supplier of these. The company website is unclear. Thanks Paul

I have used this method myself Allan, as seen here. I was using pre-painted wire. The ship in question was ww2 era, hence the painted wire. The wire was soft enough to cut with a scalpel. I hope the pictures are helpful to someone. Regards Paul

How I manage to miss these I will never know. Today is the first time I have spotted this and it’s virtually finished. So well done on your latest machine tool. It’s another beaut. You certainly went to town on the base casting and pushed on from there without too many issues. As for the broken tap, cast aluminium can be a little “sticky”. The only advice I can offer is to make sure that your hole at the top of the tapping size or even a little over and use some switch cleaner or paraffin. Another lovely edition to your miniature workshop. I shall try to keep up and catch the start next time. Regards Paul

Allan it was Veritas, this is photo from a uk supplier. It’s not a link as they often disappear but it shows what you are looking for. Regards Paul

No arguments from me on that point 👍🏼

Serious input, thanks. I have to say that these little chisels hold a great edge for weeks/months from a single sharpening. I hope I’m not going to disappoint here, but the holder is a veritas model if memory serves me right. Tighten it as hard as possible and then sharpen from that position. Don’t remove until done.

I’ve just sharpened my miniature chisels for the second time I bought these with a large dose of scepticism as apart from 4 years rearing chickens I have spent all my professional life in the pursuit of the best cutting tools. I’m in my mid sixties now, so that’s been a while. As expected, when they arrived they were not finished when it came to edge confirmation. I spent the best part of a day getting them to where I thought they could best perform. I have just completed the hull on the Syren model HMS Cheerful which has been done in Costello Boxwood. These chisels have been exemplary. I can happily state that the whole process would have been much more difficult without them. Those previous 2 pictures are trying to show that the steel used is good enough to take a “shaving” edge. I know it’s a little bizarre to shave your own hand and I accept no responsibility for any of you attempting similar, but it does prove a point. This is a simple set up using 600, 1000 and 3000 grit stones in a sunken bath of water. After completing a hull, it took less than an hour to reinstate a good edge on all three chisels. Its not easy to get a good shot of the edge with a phone camera. Get in touch if I can help with your chisel sharpening challenge. I’m sure you recognise these chisels and I have no relationship to the manufacturer. They are however the real deal, albeit in miniature. Cheers folks, I hope that might be useful. regards Paul

Hi Rob, I’ve not commented on your more recent builds, but I have enjoyed following along immensely. I feel your pain regarding rigging, or in fact any other aspect of modelling that we might struggle with to match our peers. To that end, I have a good friend who is a very accomplished modeller, he is an IPMS Championship winner in the UK and his work is well respected in aircraft modelling magazines. He recently told me how he would “love” to copy my model ship woodwork, but felt he was rubbish at woodwork. Now I know he would be fantastic at doing wooden ship models, (eventually), but of course the “apprenticeship is still x number of years”, and that won’t be full of walk in the park fun. Myself, I have been a confident airbrusher, hey I could spray, clean the airbrush and spray again six time an hour. I used to solder 0.5mm brass for fun, but for the past 3 years I have struggled with wood ship building. Thankfully I am improving (I realise that’s only my opinion) and I am committed to this part of the hobby as I have sold all my plastic kits. I think the upshot is that some of the model making skills take years to master and like with anything if you don’t keep updating those skills you will lose them. “Jack of all trades, master of none” was a saying from my youth and it still stands today. I think eventually you will probably decide to focus more on what you enjoy, which of course is obvious as long as it remains a hobby. Aside from the modelling, I enjoy your open approach and collective sharing. Thank you. Cheers bud Regards Paul

Am I wrong in thinking you would have continually changing pressure with that style.

Top link in lists of kits. Top link again https://modelshipworld.com/forum/150-index-of-all-kits-by-brand-and-subject/ Top link again pick the date 1851-1900👍🏼 Scroll down and you find around 50 build logs for your requested subject