Toolmaker

Hello Richard, What a fab read that was. Once over the initial shock of thinking I was back in work, I thoroughly enjoyed every post. I designed and made workholding fixtures for much of my working life, however I never made a 4 jaw chuck! I have even used 2 jaw chucks and 3 jaw eccentric chucks but still never made my own. You are more than capable and I have little to offer but a couple of things came to mind as I was reading your log. The first was it seemed you had an opportunity to machine 2 sides in one set-up. For instance both faces of the tail stock knee when you were face milling. If that is possible it gives you two faces square and parallel to each other and it is often easier to measure the distance between them. As you know, the issue with clamping castings is to do so without putting any twist or bend into the casting. The second was offering a different route to the gluing of your parts onto mandrels. I have used as little holding force as double sided tape when working to micron tolerances, but only with lightweight al/al or plastic components. Generally I would prefer mechanical means where possible. Two other options for your parts were a shouldered mandrel slighter shorter than your part with a drilled and tapped hole in the end. Then a flat washer and a cap head screw or bolt to hold the part tight. Similarly an expanding mandrel. Again drill and tap and add a large countersink to your tapped hole on a shouldered mandrel but leave the holding diameter a little over size. Split the length of the mandrel with a hacksaw with two or more cuts depending on diameter. Take a cap head bolt and machine a chamfer at the head end of the thread, this chamfer matches the countersink in the mandrel and tightening the screw forces the mandrel to expand. When ready for use put the mandrel in your lathe, just nip the screw and finish turn the mandrel for a slide fit on your component. Tighten the screw some more and your part will be rock solid. If the mandrel is shorter than the component you can use this method to face and turn. I apologise for the long winded interruption, it’s just that I get a little excited by this stuff😂 Regarding the kit materials, for the none cast items they could supply much nicer free cutting cast iron (not that much more expensive). The issues with the bronze will be down the cutting tool angles. Straight or shallower fluted drills would perform much better, but that’s getting a bit too specialised for the one off beauties you are producing. I shall keep an eye out for your next build. Thank you Paul

Looks great and much respect to you. I gave card modelling a go last year and failed miserably. It was far more challenging than I could have imagined. cheers Paul

I have just condensed your 6 years of effort into a few hours of reading and learning. Fascinating and quite spellbinding seeing the build evolve. Very enjoyable. Thank you Paul

It takes one to know one bud. I did the fitter/turner approach whilst you were still enjoying primary school. To be fair to yourself, if I had read this and your previous topics a little more carefully I would have seen you mentioned it a couple of times before. As for that name it’s pronounced Doog-a-vul-he with a guttural sound between the vul and he. Perhaps “near Conwy” is easier 😂 Keep up the great work and thanks for being so approachable. I expect I will pick your brains some over the coming months. Cheers Paul

Hi Doc, This is looking very neat and tidy. Lots of etch and add on’s to keep you busy. I did the 1/200 version with full etch in the past and still have lots of historical photo’s should you need any. I shall keep looking in. Thank you Paul

Hi Mark, I’m just starting out in the forum but during my lurking phase this build was, and continues to be, a main draw. Your workmanship is superb and I love your approach. I can’t help thinking you have some background in machine shop practice. Whether or not that is the case, I find your work inspiring me as I prepare for my next project. Thank you. Paul

I think that must be the Dragons Back race. Probably the worlds toughest race and starts a couple of miles from my home. oh yes, lots of pictures available once I figure the process. That seemed to work. Many thanks to everyone for the warm welcome.

Hello to all, My name is Paul and I live in Wales, UK. I have modelled for some years starting with plastic, then more multi media using brass and resin and more lately I have concentrated on wooden ships. My first ship build was a 1/200 scale USS Arizona with lots of etch. This was followed by a 1/72 scale Flower Class Corvette with more brass than plastic. Recently I have built two Vanguard Models kits, the Fifie Lady Eleanor and the Cutter HMS Alert and I am currently just starting the rigging on the Syren Ship Model Company, Medway Longboat. I have been undercover here for some time but having just signed up to the HMS Winchelsea group and acknowledging the help likely needed with that, I thought it best to climb out of my hiding place. Thank you for having me Paul