Toolmaker

Richard, A tricky little component for sure. Lots going on there. I assume that you don’t intend working these machines once built other than showing a working mechanism. Therefore I think as long as you can get a working gib strip then what ever you choose will be fine. Potentially if you lost 1/16” from the 1.313” you will only have reduced the travel on that axis by 3/4” real world. Nobody would know and we won’t tell. Good luck and enjoy whichever skinning method you choose. My own day seems to be following a similar pattern as I attempt a raft of compound angles on gun ports. Hobbies eh, who would have one. Cheers Paul

Richard Yes, plenty of options here. Two pins would be enough. With it doweled you could re position if you had more work to do. I would put the dowels towards the middle where you won’t see them should you go right through. You could tap the holes in the casting, you can always drill them clear through later. I half expected you to dowel and loctite it, releasing it when done. Your super glue tip from your previous build. I haven’t seen this part but is it an option to use M3 left hand studding? It is available. If the part is shouldered can you drill/tap and screw some studding in and lock it in place? Regarding the play on the saddle of your lathe, it should not really be an issue. Assuming it’s the left hand thread, you will be cutting from headstock to tailstock and again I’m assuming you keep the lead screw permanently engaged while threading. When you power on for each cut your hand should act as a break on the saddle wheel, in effect you are holding against the backlash. Do that for each cut and your thread should have good form. Of course It’s still a challenge due to the small size. I’m sure you already have, but I learnt early on to read the drawing notes. It’s often there that the designer writes the detail he forgot to add when he did the drawings. Good luck, you have some interesting parts ahead. Paul

Thanks for the welcome. Good alignment will certainly help with smooth operation on completion. It looked like the feed mechanism will be operational when finished. I can also see they direct you to have the bosses and spindle bore square. The best way to ensure this would be to skim the two bosses in the same set up as finishing the spindle bore. Something you might apply to other builds and which may have helped on this one is a method to index the work without an indexer. For instance, if you machined the bottom of the main casting first and then fastened it to a square block. An al/al block would do in this case and block should be a little bigger than the base of the casting. You can now machine any of the other 5 faces of the casting by holding the block in the vice. It all looks very interesting. Do you have to cut the bevel gears or are they already complete? Are you going to make your own left hand tap? haha Does the kit come from the US? Its going to look great Regards Paul

I just spotted that you are off and running again Richard. It looks like you have plenty on your plate with this build. I see another miniature gem in the making and shall follow along with your fun. Paul

I don’t know how to do it yet, but I do know fab work when I see it. Outstanding stuff Rigging at its best. Thank you for showing your work Paul

I looked at this, your latest post, from an offline position. I thought it would be just rude not to immediately log in and offer my “crikey that’s outstanding” comment. It really is super work. I know you can take great photo’s, which they are, but you can only show us what’s in front of you. You present a high bar indeed. Lovely stuff. Thank you Paul

You can see here the type of iron I use; The method is simple enough; Have the joint clean and fixed in place. Load the hot iron with solder. Using a modellers paint brush, paint the joint with liquid flux and immediately offer the loaded iron to the joint. The brass immediately heats up and the solder transfers from the iron to the joint. lastly, avoid any stupid methods of seeing if the iron is hot! Thanks Paul

Its Tamiya modellers masking tape. Its fairly low tack and in normal use doesn't leave residue. I think for the most part its about keeping the heat very localised which you can do with a fine nosed soldering iron. I generally use a small radiused nose rather than flat. I hope that helps Paul

A very enjoyable watch Thank you Paul

As a follow up to Roger’s post and in agreement with him, I am also a supporter of the soldering iron. My personal preference is a gas powered item. For the most part, ship fittings are lightweight enough to need only soft soldering. My preferred method for holding parts in place is masking tape. That may sound doubtful but it is easier to explain in clear pictures. I hope this is seen as helpful rather than indulgent. Here you can solder between the masking tape and when the tape is removed then solder the rest if you feel it’s necessary. I didn’t. The next two pictures are the all brass bridge. Almost all the parts were soldered whilst held in place with masking tape. Some similar examples Parts were usually taped to a heat resistant tile or held in self grip tweezers. Another example is the Carley floats. Minimum size was also not a barrier. This method of soldering has been discussed before but I thought it worth showing some ideas regarding holding. Thats definitely me done here on soldering 😂. Thank you Paul

Certainly 300 series and 17-4PH(precipitation hardened). I’m sure if you Google it you will find many suppliers for the process. Thank you Paul

I’m not sure if I’m missing something here, but I have done a lot of blacking to stainless steel parts.

This is great fella’s , your enthusiasm is palpable. It’s always good to see a “all in” approach. Thank Paul

Looking at your gallery images it’s certainly something I would like to see more of. Thank you Paul

Thank you for the interest shown and taking the time to comment. I’m sure you’re correct that this only worked due to the reasonably simple hull shape. The appeal for me was that I was able to have full length strakes over the complete hull. The last strake ended up varying between 2.2mm and 3.5mm so not much lost over the hull. I only measured on one side, over assuming, however I was lucky that it came out fairly even. After I had shaped each piece and bevelled the edge, I did pre-shape them. It’s a very neat kit. I thoroughly enjoyed it. Thank you. I intend to follow your lead. I got away with my cheap fix but intend to up my game going forward. Thanks for commenting, it’s appreciated. Thanks Tim, I’m sure you will do a great job on your upcoming build. If you do intend to try the route I took, here are some notes I made at the time. The shaping of the planks, even as a bunch of 10 brings its own if’s and but’s; Measure the widths of your planks and bundle them into +/- 0.05. My 4.1mm average width became 4.0mm on one batch. My Alert planks varied by 0.3mm over the lot. Choose the best side of each plank, when you stack them for profiling you will want 5 with the best side facing you and 5 with it facing away. Port and Starboard become a mirror image. On the reverse of each plank Mark the bottom as it’s surprisingly difficult to tell which edge you have profiled once they are all separated. Mark m/s on each plank as everything is taken from there. Watch out for losing that mark when you soak the plank😂 The front taper lends itself to using a plane. As a batch your stack is now about 12mm wide. The v shaped in the plank towards the stern is more problematic. Now if only I had a laser cutter and some nice sheets of pear wood! I found I approximately shaped the planks as a batch and then finished each individually. I needed to taper the front end of each plank to fit in the keel slot. It’s just a couple of millimetres. Do it on the back of the plank. This and the upper edge bevel should be done before bending. It can be done after should you forget but it’s a lot harder to bevel a compound curved edge. All the best Paul

Fairly recently I came over to the other side and began wooden ship building. My first build was a Vanguard Fifie. I feel I planked the hull in the traditional beginner manner and although happy with the result I wanted to improve on my next build. Unfortunately I found this forum a little late and embarked using my own method. My second build was another Vanguard kit, HMS Alert. Here is breakdown of how I planked the hull. The first layer was done in the manner of my Fifie The next picture is after I had tested my idea with the first 5 planks. It shows me taking measurements for the second band. I have put tape between the lower and upper planks on the bulwarks position. I have also taped (in white) the length at a halfway position for a 5 plank band. The tapes were removed and the measurements put on paper. I had previously sorted the planking strips and for this band was using 4.1mm width planks. That gave me 15 planks at mid ships. I then divide each bulwark length by 15 and I get a plank width at each bulwark. I then make 1 plank to those dimensions making sure to mark midship position. This strake is now my pattern and I make nine more to the same dimensions. The planks are individually bevelled and fastened to the framework. This process is then continued for batches of 5 planks per side. I did change the tape from white to yellow Tamiya, as the white had too much stretch. Hopefully, the rest of the pictures become self explanatory. By the end it wasn’t too far out for a rough and ready method. I’m not suggesting this is a great method, but it was a step up towards lining off the hull in a more exacting manner. My third and current build is the Syren Medway Longboat so I suspect my ad-lib method will not be used by me again. Like I said, it worked for me at that time. Thanks for looking Paul

Sorry for that Rob, just a bit of cross purposes. I agree with your approach on this. In fact some of those bits are so small I would probably be sticking them on with varnish! The paint would hold them in place. Cheers

Love it, I have definitely shouted lots worse. That there is frustration. To be fair Rob, although you know the issues you have faced, your photo’s rarely show anything other than “job done”. It all looks really good, those racks look great and will improve even further when fitted and painted. They will become just another part of an “amazing” assembly. I got slightly involved in a conversation on here today about soldering, and your build here was at the forefront of my mind. I can’t help but think you are batting way above the production level of this kit. The plastic doesn’t look good but your etch work does. Cheers fella. Thank you Paul

Cheers, thanks. That combination build really leaves you with no option but to solder. To try and ca the David Parkins sets just wouldn’t bode well. The last paragraph that Dr PR (coincidently, my initials!) wrote sums up my method beautifully. It has to be said that almost all the soldering on that build is fairly thin photo etch but comparable to what many of us require in our modelling. Its a different story when working with solid machined parts and silver solder. Thanks Paul

My thoughts entirely. It takes some effort to become proficient but after that it seems so simple. I believe I could teach anyone to solder small brass parts within an hour. The quoted paragraph is what I do, using a gas soldering iron. I have never considered a flame since. This component is 10 individual parts, I can’t imagine taking a flame anywhere near it, that would be a scatter gun approach. How small can you go using this method? Less than 0.4mm Getting close to other parts requires serious heat sinks. In this case it’s just wet cotton wool. The same method copes with bigger size parts equally well. If it wasn’t for the thousands of miles between most of us, we could set up a little soldering workshop. Thank you Paul

This brought back memories and had me chuckling. As for your fab build, it has become one of my favourites to follow. This is another aspirational build, the sort that creates a rush of kit buying. For me it’s the complete package, great woodwork, painted to the same level and now equally impressive fittings and rigging. Wow, I certainly have my work cut out trying to catch up with you fella’s. Thank you Paul

Both inspirational and aspirational, which translates to, that’s beautiful work which I hope to match one day.

https://qmro.qmul.ac.uk/xmlui/bitstream/handle/123456789/1703/PIETSCHShips'Boys2003.pdf?sequence=1&isAllowed=y I wasn’t sure if the document should be embedded or just linked? The link is to a large research document written using the records of the Marine Society. Still operating today, at the time in question the society was responsible for approximately 15% of Royal Navy recruitment. Page 149 shows a graph regarding Boys ages. Although only one portion of a larger picture I hope it is of some use. Thank you Paul

During the second half of the 18th century the London Marine Society registered around 4500 boys for sea service. Their stated minimum age was 14 although it was accepted that many boys younger than that may have been accepted.

Hi Rob, yes spot on, that’s what I did in the end. The top half of the legs are hand painted although I had painted those curved railings prior to fixing them on. It’s at this point you end up thinking why didn’t I just stick to armour, ha. Ship building is so much more challenging. I went to 1/700 scale for a short while before moving to the wood stuff. That sure demands a steady hand. Regarding my own Arizona, at the moment there are just a few pictures in the gallery here. I did a build log on another forum some years ago but it has since gone. I may eventually repeat it on MSW as a retrospective log, but for now I will happily continue to enjoy yours. cheers Paul