BANYAN

The Dutch company Artitec makes some resin-kits of small German railway ferries around the island of Rügen (I think) in HO- and N-scale:
 
https://www.artitecshop.com/en/railroad-ferry.html

https://www.artitecshop.com/en/wittow-ferry.html

https://www.artitecshop.com/en/ferry-fehmarn.html - This one I remember seeing in operation, when we spent our summer holidays with may grandparents up at the Baltic coast.

 
 
 
 

What a great result Eberhard; thanks for stepping us through the process.  It looks very effective/realistic, especially at that scale.
 
cheers
 
Pat

Hi Bob, agree your reasoning WRT using such coils.  These coils may have been a bit more commonly used than perhaps thought.  Further to Bob's comments, even in this day and age (well when I was in the service at least) where synthetic cordage is commonly used (and more prone to the effects of UV), these decorative coils were in common use for rope whenever the ship was in harbour/at the buoy or at anchor.  When underway 'proper' working coils were always used. These coils are also evident in images of HMCSS Victoria (1855).  It appears this may have been the general practice in RN ships (or military type ships) back then also, as can be seen in the following photograph (c.1858) of the gun tackle working parts being cheesed (or more correctly - Flemish coiled).  The vessel was in harbour (moored) at the time.
 
However, I must offer a point of difference in opinion WRT to how they were unwound.  When reforming the coils, or taking the coil in hand, we would 'unwind' it from out to in by grasping the rope/line near the block or securing device, then walking the line out.  This was the opposite to the way it was made up, which minimised the risk or tendency of the rope to kink, and allowed the rope to unwind with its lay.  That said, other Services/ships may have done it differently.
 
cheers
 
Pat
 

Hi Bob, agree your reasoning WRT using such coils.  These coils may have been a bit more commonly used than perhaps thought.  Further to Bob's comments, even in this day and age (well when I was in the service at least) where synthetic cordage is commonly used (and more prone to the effects of UV), these decorative coils were in common use for rope whenever the ship was in harbour/at the buoy or at anchor.  When underway 'proper' working coils were always used. These coils are also evident in images of HMCSS Victoria (1855).  It appears this may have been the general practice in RN ships (or military type ships) back then also, as can be seen in the following photograph (c.1858) of the gun tackle working parts being cheesed (or more correctly - Flemish coiled).  The vessel was in harbour (moored) at the time.
 
However, I must offer a point of difference in opinion WRT to how they were unwound.  When reforming the coils, or taking the coil in hand, we would 'unwind' it from out to in by grasping the rope/line near the block or securing device, then walking the line out.  This was the opposite to the way it was made up, which minimised the risk or tendency of the rope to kink, and allowed the rope to unwind with its lay.  That said, other Services/ships may have done it differently.
 
cheers
 
Pat
 

Hi Vossey,
 
I will try to describe the technique I use for 'cheesing' the tail ends of tackles. Not my original idea, but it works well for me.  First soak your rope/thread, cut to an appropriate size (if doing separate) in a diluted solution of PVS/water ( I use about a 60 water/40 PVA).  If using the actual tail end of the tackle, this still works but just soak the required length of the tail (working end of the falls)
 
I use two small squares (or round) of clear plastic (from shirt boxes or the like).  I punch a pin (usually a tack with raised plastic head) through both (See Photo).  Separate the two leaving the upper plastic square/round on the pin, and put the outer/tail end of the rope/thread through the centre hole of the bottom square with about 1 to 2mm protruding to the bottom side.  Put the pin back into this such that it holds the end and makes a sandwich with the thread between both plastic squares.  Now rotate either the assembly or wind the thread around the centre pin to start making a flat cheesed coil to the desired diameter.  Allow the finished coil to dry before removing; the plastic does not let them stick too much but still take some care when separating the coil from the plastic.  These 'jigs' are so easy and cheap to make you can dispose and remake as required, especially when the centre holes become too large from wear/use.

 
Just one way to do it.  
 
 
cheers
 
Pat
 
 

Hi Vossey,
 
I will try to describe the technique I use for 'cheesing' the tail ends of tackles. Not my original idea, but it works well for me.  First soak your rope/thread, cut to an appropriate size (if doing separate) in a diluted solution of PVS/water ( I use about a 60 water/40 PVA).  If using the actual tail end of the tackle, this still works but just soak the required length of the tail (working end of the falls)
 
I use two small squares (or round) of clear plastic (from shirt boxes or the like).  I punch a pin (usually a tack with raised plastic head) through both (See Photo).  Separate the two leaving the upper plastic square/round on the pin, and put the outer/tail end of the rope/thread through the centre hole of the bottom square with about 1 to 2mm protruding to the bottom side.  Put the pin back into this such that it holds the end and makes a sandwich with the thread between both plastic squares.  Now rotate either the assembly or wind the thread around the centre pin to start making a flat cheesed coil to the desired diameter.  Allow the finished coil to dry before removing; the plastic does not let them stick too much but still take some care when separating the coil from the plastic.  These 'jigs' are so easy and cheap to make you can dispose and remake as required, especially when the centre holes become too large from wear/use.

 
Just one way to do it.  
 
 
cheers
 
Pat
 
 

What a great result Eberhard; thanks for stepping us through the process.  It looks very effective/realistic, especially at that scale.
 
cheers
 
Pat

Hi Vossey,
 
I will try to describe the technique I use for 'cheesing' the tail ends of tackles. Not my original idea, but it works well for me.  First soak your rope/thread, cut to an appropriate size (if doing separate) in a diluted solution of PVS/water ( I use about a 60 water/40 PVA).  If using the actual tail end of the tackle, this still works but just soak the required length of the tail (working end of the falls)
 
I use two small squares (or round) of clear plastic (from shirt boxes or the like).  I punch a pin (usually a tack with raised plastic head) through both (See Photo).  Separate the two leaving the upper plastic square/round on the pin, and put the outer/tail end of the rope/thread through the centre hole of the bottom square with about 1 to 2mm protruding to the bottom side.  Put the pin back into this such that it holds the end and makes a sandwich with the thread between both plastic squares.  Now rotate either the assembly or wind the thread around the centre pin to start making a flat cheesed coil to the desired diameter.  Allow the finished coil to dry before removing; the plastic does not let them stick too much but still take some care when separating the coil from the plastic.  These 'jigs' are so easy and cheap to make you can dispose and remake as required, especially when the centre holes become too large from wear/use.

 
Just one way to do it.  
 
 
cheers
 
Pat
 
 

Hi Vossey,
 
I will try to describe the technique I use for 'cheesing' the tail ends of tackles. Not my original idea, but it works well for me.  First soak your rope/thread, cut to an appropriate size (if doing separate) in a diluted solution of PVS/water ( I use about a 60 water/40 PVA).  If using the actual tail end of the tackle, this still works but just soak the required length of the tail (working end of the falls)
 
I use two small squares (or round) of clear plastic (from shirt boxes or the like).  I punch a pin (usually a tack with raised plastic head) through both (See Photo).  Separate the two leaving the upper plastic square/round on the pin, and put the outer/tail end of the rope/thread through the centre hole of the bottom square with about 1 to 2mm protruding to the bottom side.  Put the pin back into this such that it holds the end and makes a sandwich with the thread between both plastic squares.  Now rotate either the assembly or wind the thread around the centre pin to start making a flat cheesed coil to the desired diameter.  Allow the finished coil to dry before removing; the plastic does not let them stick too much but still take some care when separating the coil from the plastic.  These 'jigs' are so easy and cheap to make you can dispose and remake as required, especially when the centre holes become too large from wear/use.

 
Just one way to do it.  
 
 
cheers
 
Pat
 
 

Hi Vossey,
 
I will try to describe the technique I use for 'cheesing' the tail ends of tackles. Not my original idea, but it works well for me.  First soak your rope/thread, cut to an appropriate size (if doing separate) in a diluted solution of PVS/water ( I use about a 60 water/40 PVA).  If using the actual tail end of the tackle, this still works but just soak the required length of the tail (working end of the falls)
 
I use two small squares (or round) of clear plastic (from shirt boxes or the like).  I punch a pin (usually a tack with raised plastic head) through both (See Photo).  Separate the two leaving the upper plastic square/round on the pin, and put the outer/tail end of the rope/thread through the centre hole of the bottom square with about 1 to 2mm protruding to the bottom side.  Put the pin back into this such that it holds the end and makes a sandwich with the thread between both plastic squares.  Now rotate either the assembly or wind the thread around the centre pin to start making a flat cheesed coil to the desired diameter.  Allow the finished coil to dry before removing; the plastic does not let them stick too much but still take some care when separating the coil from the plastic.  These 'jigs' are so easy and cheap to make you can dispose and remake as required, especially when the centre holes become too large from wear/use.

 
Just one way to do it.  
 
 
cheers
 
Pat
 
 

Hi Vossey,
 
I will try to describe the technique I use for 'cheesing' the tail ends of tackles. Not my original idea, but it works well for me.  First soak your rope/thread, cut to an appropriate size (if doing separate) in a diluted solution of PVS/water ( I use about a 60 water/40 PVA).  If using the actual tail end of the tackle, this still works but just soak the required length of the tail (working end of the falls)
 
I use two small squares (or round) of clear plastic (from shirt boxes or the like).  I punch a pin (usually a tack with raised plastic head) through both (See Photo).  Separate the two leaving the upper plastic square/round on the pin, and put the outer/tail end of the rope/thread through the centre hole of the bottom square with about 1 to 2mm protruding to the bottom side.  Put the pin back into this such that it holds the end and makes a sandwich with the thread between both plastic squares.  Now rotate either the assembly or wind the thread around the centre pin to start making a flat cheesed coil to the desired diameter.  Allow the finished coil to dry before removing; the plastic does not let them stick too much but still take some care when separating the coil from the plastic.  These 'jigs' are so easy and cheap to make you can dispose and remake as required, especially when the centre holes become too large from wear/use.

 
Just one way to do it.  
 
 
cheers
 
Pat
 
 

Hi Vossey,
 
I will try to describe the technique I use for 'cheesing' the tail ends of tackles. Not my original idea, but it works well for me.  First soak your rope/thread, cut to an appropriate size (if doing separate) in a diluted solution of PVS/water ( I use about a 60 water/40 PVA).  If using the actual tail end of the tackle, this still works but just soak the required length of the tail (working end of the falls)
 
I use two small squares (or round) of clear plastic (from shirt boxes or the like).  I punch a pin (usually a tack with raised plastic head) through both (See Photo).  Separate the two leaving the upper plastic square/round on the pin, and put the outer/tail end of the rope/thread through the centre hole of the bottom square with about 1 to 2mm protruding to the bottom side.  Put the pin back into this such that it holds the end and makes a sandwich with the thread between both plastic squares.  Now rotate either the assembly or wind the thread around the centre pin to start making a flat cheesed coil to the desired diameter.  Allow the finished coil to dry before removing; the plastic does not let them stick too much but still take some care when separating the coil from the plastic.  These 'jigs' are so easy and cheap to make you can dispose and remake as required, especially when the centre holes become too large from wear/use.

 
Just one way to do it.  
 
 
cheers
 
Pat
 
 

Now it's time to build magazines and all sorts of decks and beams. For that phase an accurate depth gauge is essential, so I've let my brain overthink yet another tool 
 
The requirements are:
1) Soft plastic or wood to avoid scratching the model
2) Nice looking and pleasure to use, that tool would be in active service for at least a decade.
3) Ideally it should have a thumbwheel or a knob for fine adjustment. 
 
I have a cheap plastic vernier calliper that satisfies the first requirement, but it does not have an knob / thumbwheel.

Could not find any plastic callipers with a knob, unfortunately. The plastic ones are already rare enough, let alone with a wheel adjuster.
 
Then I spotted a Lego set with a container loader ("reach stacker", to be more precise) that has a worm gear and tried to make an abomination out of it. It is surprisingly challenging to build a compact functional tool out of random lego parts, a whole puzzle of its own. Respect to people who do it on a regular basis!

It kind of works, but the play and precision is not good enough for my needs. 
So I gave up on the wheel adjuster requirement and went back to the simple "calliper on a gantry" setup.
It was a nice warmup to recover some skills that I've lost over years of inactivity.
 

This time I even got help from my little helper! She enjoyed cranking the mill  

 
The resulting design has two parts - sliding gantry (no t-tracks, it is stable enough on its own) and a "calliper holder" that slides sideways on the gantry to allow the gantry keep contact with both sides of the baseboard.
The bottom edge of the caliper is trimmed to a flatter profile to avoid hitting the keelson. Both ends of the calliper can be used for a markup to allow for a comfortable pencil positioning.
The setup relies on three clamps to fix everything in position. These plastic clamps are a bit of an eyesore, maybe I will sidetrack again to build a nicer ones  


 
 

I spent some years designing dust and fume collection systems for laboratories and research facilities. Most devices like this are of little value; it’s the nature of the beast.
Try this experiment:  Get your vacuum cleaner hose, and hold your hand a 1/4” from the nozzle. Feel the air movement?  Ok, now move your hand 1” from the nozzle:  you probably can’t feel air moving, or just barely. 2” away you feel nothing. 
Now, connect your vacuum hose to the discharge of the vacuum ( if you can). You can hold your hand several feet from the discharge and still feel the air movement. 
Why the difference?  Air best flows to where it is pushed, not pulled. 
The suction of the hose is relying on barometric pressure to push the air into it ( essentially, the vacuum hose creates a “ hole” in the surrounding area near the nozzle that the air “falls” into). On the discharge end, the energy from the vacuum cleaner motor has been imparted to the air and will move with more force. 
To better control the particles in the air, get a small fan to blow across your work surface away from you. 

A stunning build Richard; an exemplar of how to build such a model.  I have very much enjoyed this build log so far.
 
cheers
 
Pat
 

I have reached another small milestone.  All of the below deck fittings and cabins are completed.  The gun deck is fully framed as well.   Next up I will start planking the inboard bulwarks.   That should make a huge difference.  
 
I hope to see many of you this weekend at the New London show.   It should be a very enjoyable weekend.   I am looking forward to it.
 







 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Chuck

Great way to rekindle those memories Mark; good luck with this project. 
 
cheers
 
Pat

Left planking of the forward and aft platforms until after varnishing the main hull unit, in order to improve access (it was already difficult enough underneath the fixed quarterdeck structure...)
Plan 21, an estract of which is shown below (© Estate of John F. Coates, reproduced with permission) shows the planking of the forecastle planking stopping short of the port and starboard extremities (I guess, because there is no beam for the forward edge of any plank to rest on...). As you can see in the image below, ive gone along with this despite the obvious hazard involved with getting a foot caught up in the gap if the ship rolls at the wrong moment...

The aft moogin platform is shown in Plan 23 , an estract of which is shown below (© Estate of John F. Coates, reproduced with permission) together with my interpretation, which has ended up a bit wider at the aft end...

 

It might be worthwhile getting a larger piece of brass and machine the part you require. Saw and files or power tools if you have them. I think this method would be more easily controlled and offer you a better chance of success. Brass is quite soft and files to shape quickly.

Well, that's where we are at the moment.

I think the books have some errors...
Standard 81T0833

This arrangement is therefore not correct at all.

And is shamelessly copied in the next book.

And this is what it actually looks like in the drawing.
A channel or rigging rail a little bit lower.
The Calderkraft model also follows this arrangement. Thanks @Mr Pleasant 
 
 
And so does our Russian colleague.
https://www.shipmodeling.ru/phpbb/viewtopic.php?f=45&t=71379  thanks @firdajan

next
horizontal planking or curved straight
Most from this period seem to go for horizontal.
The curved straight ones are starting to become a bit old-fashioned in this period, it seems to me

Thanks for following

Ian, that block looks like an ordinary block with a toggle each side. Those toggles have been found in archaeology as far back as the 11th century, though I don't know if they've been found from the Classical Roman period. They are very useful for quick attachment and release of different parts of rigging on Mediterranean lateeners - for an example of the toggle in use see my post #1217 at 
Tony, thanks for your nice comment. Much appreciated.
 
More progress on the San Marco ship.
 
Grab rings for the hatch covers:

Hatch covers in place and with grab rings (now blackened) in place. I had to wait until the masts were glued in before I could finalise the hatch covers, otherwise I wouldn't have been able to see the mast steps to guide the masts into position.


Shrouds:

Foremast starboard shrouds in place:

All foremast shrouds in place. The port shrouds are loose because the lateen sail was within the shrouds - if the leeward shrouds were kept tight they would interfere with the sail as it bellied out with the wind. 
   
Getting ready for tomorrow's Modelling Exhibition! while I'm sitting there keeping people (and their precious little darlings) from touching my models with their sticky fingers I'll probably be working on positioning the halyards and their tackle, and adding the blocks for the tacks to the yards. 
 
Steven
 

Great way to rekindle those memories Mark; good luck with this project. 
 
cheers
 
Pat

Great way to rekindle those memories Mark; good luck with this project. 
 
cheers
 
Pat

Finally an update.   I'm reading and re-reading the instructions and looking at other logs of this ship.   And I currently have all the framing (I think) done.   About to start marking the top lines of the frames.   Hopefully I get more time to spend on this project but seems real life keeps dragging me off.