BANYAN

Made some final mods to the clipper half hull plaque.  I added a short epilogue and description made from a maple tree I cut down in the yard.
Relocated the anchor as well.
 
Now were to hang it.....MMMMMM
 
Rob

Hi Pat,
The Funnel came out very well for 3D printing. Impressed I am.
The printed surface, as you have found looks smooth, but rippled with the layering of the filament.
I've bought small diameter nozzles to install on my 3DP, aim is for thinner layers > smoother finishes.
All learning on this method.
Cheers

Thanks Greg, appreciate the feedback.
 
cheers
 
Pat

Very nice display piece Rob, you have done an excellent job on those half-hulls and chosen a very good way display them.
 
cheers
 
Pat

Hi again folks, some further small updates.  i have decided I HATE this camera - it shows far too much detail too clearly   These photos are extreme close-ups as the port openings (with bucklars fitted) are less than 20mm across.  They show that I have a lot (did I say a LOT) of cleaning up to do yet.  All those bumps (dust) are not visible to the naked eye.  The one advantage is that it clearly shows where I need to sand, touch-up or square off etc. so that will be the next major undertaking.
 
The first photos show a 3D printed funnel; primed black.  We had started one in metal but getting the panel rivet details etc to show proved too difficult.  The 3D printed one looks OK but has a bit of cleaning up (sanding mainly) to be done yet.  The tie-down rings are small brass eyes I made; chains will be fitted to these and secured at the deck with bottle screws.


The towing timbers (bollards) are made from brass (shown previously) and blackened.  I then sanded the top to simulate the copper cap (as per the contract).  The small wingnuts (first photo) simulate one method by which these bucklers may have been secured in place for sea (battens across the towing timbers and pulled taut with the threaded rod and wingnut.
 


 

I have also fitted the heads (less than 10mm across) and pissdales - this one is shown closed, the opposite has the lid up.  I still have to add a small rope handle to the lids.

I have also dry fitted the rear bench to the transom.

Now back to the sanding and scraping, then touch ups to cover the 'vermillion' that just keeps showing/bleeding through.
 
cheers
 
Pat
 
 

so size does matter?  
 
Many images of the "stick" show it with a head, whereas others do not.
According to the story the lead head melted off when the beast breathed fire at it.  The melted lead flowed into it's mouth and killed it.
So at the beginning of the fight it was a spear and at the end it was a javelin?  
 
 
 

Thanks Pat.  I have many scale models of clippers in my library/den/man cave..and about the rest of the home.  However, they all tend to be within the same scale....but they are surely NOT in the same scale to one another...lending confusion to those who view them.  For years, it troubled me that I had no way of demonstrating the actual size differences between many famous clippers.  Not to mention that since the Cutty Sark is the most modeled clipper and by her, many if not most, think she was what could be considered an average, if not typical representation of the clipper model, failing to see the astounding truth of the matter.
 
Clippers are profoundly an American expression...and with wood aplenty, size and luxury was left to the designers(and builders) skill and imagination .  Not to be lost in the discussion, is also the fact that clipper designs(for a better and faster model) were being played out as they were being built.  Not any two clippers are exactly alike...no two share the same design...for ever better designs were being experimented with in each new clipper sliding down the ways.
 
I just hope I've turned the light on of understanding....of just how different and even drastic, comparing(IN SCALE) the extreme size difference there was within the small and short lived class of vessels that were called CLIPPERS.
 
Thanks for your fine comments.
 
Rob

Skylight fixture....
Progress on the skylight fixture is coming along very slowly.  The brass railing has not been cleaned up yet, and I haven't added the stanchion footings.
After I finish gluing the brass bars in place, I'll try to find a way to assemble all those little parts.

Thank you @mtaylor, @BANYAN, @Mike Y, @druxey, @Omega1234, @John Allen, and @oneslim for your reactions. Much appreciated.
___________________________________________
Yeah, sometimes it's fun, especially when it works out okay. 
 
Had a bit of a headache working out how to attach the overhanging roof. So I placed a block of wood inside and secured it with a screw at either end. Then made window frames to fit in the gap, gluing only ceiling end of the frames. Then took out the block to complete the construction.
 

Ah yes. I know the machine. It's called the Cocoon and I've heard good things about it despite the low price (Now selling for around $499 from the same store). It seems to be doing a good job for you!
 

Unless you can put the plastic together perfectly it usually needs some work. Tamiya fits perfectly, everyone else, not so. For example with the last photo, photoetch is designed to fit perfectly, so any error means it needs work, be it putty or just plain CA or shims. If you are going to use a file the piece must be glued down hard to save the metal piece coming off a little bit and bending. 
 
Mr Surfacer is good to paint on joins to see if you’ve got it right. 
 
What you can’t see in the photo you mention, I ran a bead of glue along the edge which is transparent but “should” look ok when painted. 

Hi Alan, first nice progress with your drawings - should turn into a nice figurehead.
 
As to Javelin Vs Spear - Druxey is quite right to point out the difference as a javelin is a light throwing spear differentiated mainly with a javelin not having a head; whereas a spear generally does.
 
cheers
 
pat

Very nice Greg.  With all the PE, where it joins the resin/plastic parts do you fill the joint, or file down the PE edge so that it does not stand proud - for example the vertical join aft of the ladder in your port side amidships photo earlier?  I may be jumping the gun but am interested as I may have to do something similar when I finally get around to my Vampire resin build.  The PE certainly holds a lot more detail.
 
cheers
 
Pat

Hi Alan, first nice progress with your drawings - should turn into a nice figurehead.
 
As to Javelin Vs Spear - Druxey is quite right to point out the difference as a javelin is a light throwing spear differentiated mainly with a javelin not having a head; whereas a spear generally does.
 
cheers
 
pat

Very nice Greg.  With all the PE, where it joins the resin/plastic parts do you fill the joint, or file down the PE edge so that it does not stand proud - for example the vertical join aft of the ladder in your port side amidships photo earlier?  I may be jumping the gun but am interested as I may have to do something similar when I finally get around to my Vampire resin build.  The PE certainly holds a lot more detail.
 
cheers
 
Pat

Very nice Greg.  With all the PE, where it joins the resin/plastic parts do you fill the joint, or file down the PE edge so that it does not stand proud - for example the vertical join aft of the ladder in your port side amidships photo earlier?  I may be jumping the gun but am interested as I may have to do something similar when I finally get around to my Vampire resin build.  The PE certainly holds a lot more detail.
 
cheers
 
Pat

Hi Alan, first nice progress with your drawings - should turn into a nice figurehead.
 
As to Javelin Vs Spear - Druxey is quite right to point out the difference as a javelin is a light throwing spear differentiated mainly with a javelin not having a head; whereas a spear generally does.
 
cheers
 
pat

Hi all, many thanks for the remarks, questions and likes.
 
General  Comments:  The camera really points/brings out the errors especially at this scale.  In hind-sight the pipes for the pissdales are too large in relation to the dales themselves, and the battens for bolstar securing are a little too thick, but they looked OK before adding them to the model and to the naked eye - I think I will leave these as are.  However, I am not as sure that I can live with the poorly filed tops of a couple of the towing timber.  The problem is that these are two-part epoxied into the waterways and it would be too difficult and risky to file them flat in-situ - I am still thinking on this issue   I need to find a way to better inspect these parts before fitting them.
 
Russ:  Thanks for your kind comment.  There is much more detail to be added yet :).
 
Carl:  Thanks for the suggestions; I will try to sand but may be a tad fiddly.  I think the real issue comes down to the brand of paint I used and I have decided not to use it again - committed to it for this build though.
 
Ed:  Many thanks for looking in and being 'gentle' on my workmanship (especially compared to yours).  I am learning a lot and one of the biggest lessons is not to file freehand (put it in a vice dummy! - I have learned the hard way and you show this in all your work so I should have known better).
I am using acrylic paints, but as I explained to Carl, it is either the paint brand (peculiarities with their composition) or the thinner/reducer I have used as it seems to take weeks to fully cure.  I am leaving the red to settle for a few more days while I clean up some of the other work and then try to recoat it.
As to the funnel, yep a great way to show the details but please see next comments.
 
Bernie:  I did not print this myself - the build is a club effort even though I am doing 80% of the work  or should it be  -  A friend of mine recently purchased a 3D printer from ALDI (German owned grocery shopping chain here in Australia that uses 'special deals' on other merchandise as a marketing ploy and inducement to go to their shops) - he got it for A$200ish - very cheap but seems to work very well.  He uses it with AutoCAD 3D (or some name like that - from the AutoCAD family I believe); it is not much good for 2D but seems great for 3D.  He really knows how to make it 'sing' and experiments with different print mediums and placement of 'holders' etc to get the best results.  I can put you in touch for a private discussion with him about it if you like? Give me a bell or PM.
There is a downside though, every little detail shows through if you airbrush and I am finding the printing pattern, even though smooth to the touch, comes through and you have to use many layers of paint.  That said I think it is a great way to do details such as this and even though not 'scratch' in the purest sense, I still had to do all the research, he had to create the drawing and print it off.  It is similar to buying a resin or PE after-market part I suppose.  
We have plans to try and do the capstan also.
 
cheers
 
Pat
  

Hi all, many thanks for the remarks, questions and likes.
 
General  Comments:  The camera really points/brings out the errors especially at this scale.  In hind-sight the pipes for the pissdales are too large in relation to the dales themselves, and the battens for bolstar securing are a little too thick, but they looked OK before adding them to the model and to the naked eye - I think I will leave these as are.  However, I am not as sure that I can live with the poorly filed tops of a couple of the towing timber.  The problem is that these are two-part epoxied into the waterways and it would be too difficult and risky to file them flat in-situ - I am still thinking on this issue   I need to find a way to better inspect these parts before fitting them.
 
Russ:  Thanks for your kind comment.  There is much more detail to be added yet :).
 
Carl:  Thanks for the suggestions; I will try to sand but may be a tad fiddly.  I think the real issue comes down to the brand of paint I used and I have decided not to use it again - committed to it for this build though.
 
Ed:  Many thanks for looking in and being 'gentle' on my workmanship (especially compared to yours).  I am learning a lot and one of the biggest lessons is not to file freehand (put it in a vice dummy! - I have learned the hard way and you show this in all your work so I should have known better).
I am using acrylic paints, but as I explained to Carl, it is either the paint brand (peculiarities with their composition) or the thinner/reducer I have used as it seems to take weeks to fully cure.  I am leaving the red to settle for a few more days while I clean up some of the other work and then try to recoat it.
As to the funnel, yep a great way to show the details but please see next comments.
 
Bernie:  I did not print this myself - the build is a club effort even though I am doing 80% of the work  or should it be  -  A friend of mine recently purchased a 3D printer from ALDI (German owned grocery shopping chain here in Australia that uses 'special deals' on other merchandise as a marketing ploy and inducement to go to their shops) - he got it for A$200ish - very cheap but seems to work very well.  He uses it with AutoCAD 3D (or some name like that - from the AutoCAD family I believe); it is not much good for 2D but seems great for 3D.  He really knows how to make it 'sing' and experiments with different print mediums and placement of 'holders' etc to get the best results.  I can put you in touch for a private discussion with him about it if you like? Give me a bell or PM.
There is a downside though, every little detail shows through if you airbrush and I am finding the printing pattern, even though smooth to the touch, comes through and you have to use many layers of paint.  That said I think it is a great way to do details such as this and even though not 'scratch' in the purest sense, I still had to do all the research, he had to create the drawing and print it off.  It is similar to buying a resin or PE after-market part I suppose.  
We have plans to try and do the capstan also.
 
cheers
 
Pat
  

Very nice display piece Rob, you have done an excellent job on those half-hulls and chosen a very good way display them.
 
cheers
 
Pat

Very nice work Tecko; that is some serious alteration.
 
cheers
 
Pat

Very nice work Tecko; that is some serious alteration.
 
cheers
 
Pat

Hi again folks, some further small updates.  i have decided I HATE this camera - it shows far too much detail too clearly   These photos are extreme close-ups as the port openings (with bucklars fitted) are less than 20mm across.  They show that I have a lot (did I say a LOT) of cleaning up to do yet.  All those bumps (dust) are not visible to the naked eye.  The one advantage is that it clearly shows where I need to sand, touch-up or square off etc. so that will be the next major undertaking.
 
The first photos show a 3D printed funnel; primed black.  We had started one in metal but getting the panel rivet details etc to show proved too difficult.  The 3D printed one looks OK but has a bit of cleaning up (sanding mainly) to be done yet.  The tie-down rings are small brass eyes I made; chains will be fitted to these and secured at the deck with bottle screws.


The towing timbers (bollards) are made from brass (shown previously) and blackened.  I then sanded the top to simulate the copper cap (as per the contract).  The small wingnuts (first photo) simulate one method by which these bucklers may have been secured in place for sea (battens across the towing timbers and pulled taut with the threaded rod and wingnut.
 


 

I have also fitted the heads (less than 10mm across) and pissdales - this one is shown closed, the opposite has the lid up.  I still have to add a small rope handle to the lids.

I have also dry fitted the rear bench to the transom.

Now back to the sanding and scraping, then touch ups to cover the 'vermillion' that just keeps showing/bleeding through.
 
cheers
 
Pat
 
 

Hi again folks, some further small updates.  i have decided I HATE this camera - it shows far too much detail too clearly   These photos are extreme close-ups as the port openings (with bucklars fitted) are less than 20mm across.  They show that I have a lot (did I say a LOT) of cleaning up to do yet.  All those bumps (dust) are not visible to the naked eye.  The one advantage is that it clearly shows where I need to sand, touch-up or square off etc. so that will be the next major undertaking.
 
The first photos show a 3D printed funnel; primed black.  We had started one in metal but getting the panel rivet details etc to show proved too difficult.  The 3D printed one looks OK but has a bit of cleaning up (sanding mainly) to be done yet.  The tie-down rings are small brass eyes I made; chains will be fitted to these and secured at the deck with bottle screws.


The towing timbers (bollards) are made from brass (shown previously) and blackened.  I then sanded the top to simulate the copper cap (as per the contract).  The small wingnuts (first photo) simulate one method by which these bucklers may have been secured in place for sea (battens across the towing timbers and pulled taut with the threaded rod and wingnut.
 


 

I have also fitted the heads (less than 10mm across) and pissdales - this one is shown closed, the opposite has the lid up.  I still have to add a small rope handle to the lids.

I have also dry fitted the rear bench to the transom.

Now back to the sanding and scraping, then touch ups to cover the 'vermillion' that just keeps showing/bleeding through.
 
cheers
 
Pat