GGibson

Do as much of the gaff & boom rigging and block preparation as you can off ship. When it got to that point, I used my tall "helping hand" alligator clip holder apparatus to hold the gaffs in place while doing the final rigging and securing the gaff to the mast with parrel beads. I decided not to do sails on my Bluenose, so I wish you the best with the sail installations!

The bowsprit blocks do look better, Rod! And, yes... a ton of clove hitches! Great job! Getting the flying backstays on the ship will help solidify the main mast, as well. Your Bluenose is looking awesome.

Good to know, Jon. Should have known you had that all figured. Appreciate the clarification. Thanks!

Definitely something to consider, Mustafa! I appreciate your confidence in me! 🤷‍♂️😅 I need to look back at some more of your forward spar deck pictures to remind myself how your gun deck details in that area are exposed. Your work is magnificent. Hoping your summer holiday with family has been wonderful and relaxing!

Hey Jon! As I have been looking some more at your spar deck planking pictures again, another question came to mind, and I apologize if I have missed something in your previous work, but... had you already done the necessary shaping/tapering of the bowsprit in preparation of its eventual rigging prior to installing it? Prior to your planking in the bow area, it would be easier to remove and replace the bowsprit into its keyhole slot with no spar deck planking. With it all planked now, MUCH more difficult! Perhaps you did all that work when you were working on the bowsprit hatch and I've just skimmed over that section of your build log (so far!) and missed that completed work. Thought I would ask the question, though. Interested in seeing how you finish the deck staining!

The spar deck planking is looking very nice, Jon. Great info to store away regarding the tapering. And it's awesome to see how your detailed gun deck will be exposed in certain areas. Coming along great! Thanks for sharing!

Another “mini-project” done (well, mostly done), so another short update. Bow Knightheads and Timberheads Using the plan copies that I had made to cut up and use as templates, I cut out the spar deck framing piece and outlined it on a 3/32” section of provided basswood sheet. I also flipped it and re-outlined it for the port side framing. Using my scroll saw, I then cut the framing for both sides and sanded to shape. Using the same outline the template” process, I also cut out the knightheads and timberheads for both sides. Several of the build logs I have used for research and guidance mentioned that the lengths of the plan’s pieces might have been a little short, so I added 1-2mm to each of the framing pieces as I cut them, so I could adjust as needed when I fit them on top of the filler blocks. I worked on the starboard side first and used the knighthead #1 piece and the timberhead #5 piece (the one closest to Bulkhead A) to have the spar deck frame to sit on for fitting and adjustment. A bit of sanding was needed for the spar deck frame to sit well in its “slot” between the center keel and Bulkhead A, and the notches both in the filler block and the spar deck frame needed some small widening in spots for the frames to fit well. I also tested the height of the spar deck frame, as well, against the existing tops of Bulkheads A, B, etc., to make sure the spar deck planking will be level. I then repeated all of this process on the port side of the ship. The plans also show the addition of planksheer supports, stiffeners and bridle port header and sill. Using some suggested 3/32” square strips, I added the planksheer supports just above the spar deck level. I’d like to hold off on any stiffener additions until I get a better idea of how the bow area will be completed,, and I’m holding off on the bridle port frames until I get to the gun deck gunport framing, as that will all be done at the same level and I want it to be as accurate as I can. Whether these are good decisions or not… we shall see. It will be easy, though, to add (I think) when needed. I also need to do some additional sanding, both inside and out, to smooth things out. Also, I do recall Jon Gerson mentioning an issue he discovered at this point in his build regarding the bowsprit placement and, in looking further at his build log and at some other logs, I reminded myself that, at some point before it all gets closed up and hard to get to, I will need to widen the area where the two spar deck frames come together to allow for the bowsprit to fit properly. Thanks, Jon! I am also cognizant of the issue Peter reminded me of in his post above regarding the planking placement on these spar deck frames. It is great to have such awesome build logs and followers to rely on through this Constitution build! Y’all are fantastic! Thanks! For now, though, I think I am moving to the back of the ship to begin the stern and transom framing. This, of course, is where everyone’s building methods have changed depending on which Constitution era we are shooting for. Exciting times ahead! Appreciate the likes, follows, comments and criticisms.

Nice work on the steering wheel base, Peter! The plans show the base wood to be cherry. This looks really close. Is it natural wood, painted or stained?

Thanks for this reminder, Peter! Yeah, I just finished cutting and shaping the spar deck framing pieces before I read your reminder post... ...and am wondering if I shouldn't redo this framing with a slightly wider girth, as you suggested in your Post #14, just for grins. OK, off to make these knightheads and timberheads. 🤷‍♂️🤞

Appreciate the info, Peter. And, yes.... well, technically 1:76.8

The Syren wheel, albeit the assembly looks to be a bit tedious (excellent lathe work, BTW), does look pretty sharp with some stain, Peter! OK, I am too lazy to pull applicable plans out and do the measurements and conversions, but I am curious (and trying to take meticulous notes). The Syren wheel looks to be in scale with your kit-provided wheel. Is that Syren's 24mm or 31.75mm wheel? Thanks, Peter! Great work, sir!

Thanks, Peter. As simple as it is, it really did help me get the blocks to the more accurate shape that they need to be prior to gluing. But not for the brass wire measurements, I probably would have quit shaping the blocks multiple times before hitting the mark. But, in measuring, I would be as much as 2-3mm off in sanding/shaping. So, I kept at it. Hopefully, that will save a lot of additional sanding needed once I actually get to the hull planking. Appreciate the follow and the comments.

Excellent question, Jon! And I guess my best response is to use the 🤷‍♂️emoji and say "I dunno...". Didn't really think about doing it that way and using the scroll saw for the notches. Perhaps it was because my scroll saw is out in the garage and the Proxxon mill is in the shipyard and more convenient to use. I think I am more accurate with the mill, too, than with the scroll saw blade. Was planning on using the mill again for the upper bow framing notches, too. Hmmm.... Appreciate your feedback, Jon. Thank you!

BOW FILLER BLOCKS Yes, another update, I have moved forward on the ship and began working on the bow filler blocks. All in all, I think the completion of the bow filler blocks went smoother than the stern filler blocks. Mostly, of course, because much of the work was essentially a rehash of the process used at the stern. The kit provides us with a 2” x 2” x 6” long block. The plans suggest that you cut that larger block into two 2-1/2 x 1-1/4 x 1-1/2” blocks for each side. Rather than full 2-1/2” lengths, I cut two 2-1/8” length blocks and two shorter ½” length blocks. Employing a technique from Tom (@usedtosail), I will mill the required notches for the knightheads, gunports and head access frames into the ½” pieces, as it will be easier to do it this way on the mill. I will then glue the ½” pieces onto the larger pieces for final shaping. Trace the Gun Deck top view onto each block to ascertain cuts to be made. Note that I have written port and starboard designations, as well as the Bulkhead A and Hull Center Lines, on each block to help keep them organized in my head. Then, using the scroll saw, I cut out the bow filler block shapes. I then moved the top part of the blocks to the mill and cut out the notches. I scribed and then drew a line for the 1/8” depth notches, as suggested on the plans. I then glued the halves together and let them cure overnight. I then drew the A, B & C markings and bearding line shapes to determine how the blocks would be cut and shaped. I also used the same technique I did for the stern filler block shaping, using small 0.51mm brass wires cut to the A, B & C lengths shown on the plan view, which helped me determine amount of sanding to check the shape. Although I know the bow filler blocks will need additional shaping when we get to placing the hull planks, I think we’ve got the blocks shaped well. So, I glued the bow filler blocks in place. Everything seems to look good. I am now working on the knighthead framing and the other bow framing above the bow filler blocks. I appreciate the likes, comments, advice and criticisms.

Excellent work, Rod! Great skills.