GGibson
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Everything posted by GGibson
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Great idea on using the jig, Jon. Gives it a nice consistency in rope lengths, etc. Need to remember that! They look sharp. Well done, sir!
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How do you do it? You tie Tanic down well. 👍
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A couple updates... I needed to complete the work on the chain plates before I did too much more on other things. I mentioned in my previous post that I figured to have some valid reason for not cutting the holes/slots for the chainplates while I was putting in the rails. And I was kicking myself now for every one of the twenty (20) slots I had to cut into the rails after-the-fact. Message to all future Bluenose builders... CUT THE CHAINPLATE SLOTS WHEN YOU INSTALL THE RAILS! OK, enough self-criticism... here's what I was able to accomplish. I marked the locations of the chainplates on the main rails and the monkey rails based on the plans. In order to assure that I was drilling the holes on the correct side of the bulwarks and, when drilling the holes in the quarter deck rails, going thru both the monkey rail and main rail, I decided to drill from the underside, from the bottom up, to give myself a better visual of where I was going with the drill bit. I also was reminded how crucial the placement of the main rails is on top of the bulwark and stanchions, in order to give you the spacing required for these chain plates. Anyways, I used a #61 micro drill bit to begin each hole/slot and then, using my 2 largest micro-size precision reamers, I enlarged each of the slots until a "test" brass strip could fit into the hole. The kit-provided brass strips are 1/64" thick by 1/16" wide. But, when the tops of the strips are folded over to secure the wire holding the deadeyes, that thickness doubles to 1/32" plus a bit more due to the twisted wire thickness. As the chain plates were slid into each hole for testing, the paint job on the rails and the hull was taking a beating. Definitely going to require a lot of touchup. Again, another reason for doing this cutting sooner. <head slap> Actually, preparing the chainplates and deadeyes was the smoothest part of this process. I prepared a small jig, similar to what was done for the pintles and gudgeons, in order to drill the holes in the chainplates per the plans. My new Proxxon drill press with the X/Y table came in handy once again! Then, using a pair of hemostat forceps and a vise, I wrapped the thin brass wire provided in the kit around the deadeyes and twisted them. That is what, then, was secured into the tops of each chainplate. Long story short (I know, too late for that), I was able to place each of the twenty (20) chainplates and deadeyes in their locations with some work. Drilled holes in the hull at the chainplate hole locations and, using small brass nails with heads on them and a spot of CA glue, secured the nails to the chainplates to simulate bolts. I then spot-retouched all of the paint job that I had damaged in the process. I hope they will all look good once I get to the rigging. Before I get to the anchors and cathead installation, I wanted to do some additional work on the deck. I was wanting to place some barrels just ahead of the cabin, but wasn't totally sure how to place them. I was then inspired by the work that John Ruy has done on his Bluenose, as well as looking at the pictures of the old Bluenose on the Nova Scotia Archives website. So, I constructed a little rack holding a half-dozen barrels along with a couple other barrels tied to the front of the cabin. The barrels I used were from Model Shipways, 35/64" x 15/32" (14x12mm), and I think were sized about right. I also had a slightly bigger alternative, but that sized barrel just looked too big for scale, even for the black ones that are tied to the cabin. Not perfect, but I think they came out pretty well, and they add nicely to the deck furnishings, as depicted in those old pictures. Thanks to John for the reminder and the inspiration! Now I think it's time for the catheads and anchors work. Let's see how well this goes...
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Welcome, TJM! Enjoy the benefits of the MSW community. And, I've had to remind myself many times... This Model Ship World forum is not a competition of who's best or fastest, but simply an awesome forum to share both our struggles and our successes and learn from one another. Look forward to seeing your HMS Flirt build log!
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Very neat project, Brad! Thanks for sharing! I have the OcCre 1:300 scale kit in my shipyard to work on "sometime in my lifetime". In the meantime, it's fun (and educational and entertaining) to look at others' builds! And, unlike the very original vessel, it appears from this picture that, no matter how many passengers it carried, your original model didn't sink! 👍Great work by your N.S. team! Will watch the new build with interest!
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Lots of interesting options that look nice, but think I still want to wait on a Byrnes! I was just at our local ship modelers' club meeting today, and I asked around the room what the guys were using, as most of them are scratch builders, and I heard a series of "Byrnes, Byrnes, Byrnes....." responses. 👍
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Good looking out, pre-rigging, John! Always nice to spot those items now rather than a "how am I going to get that in there now?" moment later! Already found a few of those on mine as I progress but will do the same check when I get to your point in the build, as well. Looking forward to watching your rigging success.
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Looks really sharp, John! Great work, sir! I can probably look back and see, but did you paint or blacken the small brass pieces around the mast? I'm working on the chain plates now, and the blackening has worked pretty well for them. Will do the same, I think, when I get to the stage you are at, as well. Going to take another approach to soldering and do some more practicing. Anyways, back to your Bluenose... you're about to the rigging stage now, aren't you? Super cool! Carry on, John!
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Yep... I'm just waiting on their email reply saying they are back from their vacay! 👍
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USS Constitution by mtbediz - 1:76
GGibson replied to mtbediz's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Thanks for clarifying, Mustafa! As I said before, it really looks like an awesome planking. Carry on, sir! -
USS Constitution by mtbediz - 1:76
GGibson replied to mtbediz's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Planking looks really good, Mustafa. Congrats on a smooth job! Curious, though, on your choice of butt joint spacing. I generally read about recommendations for 3 or 4 plank spacing before repeated butt joints. Yours looks like only 2. Does the copper plating that will cover a good part of the hull have an effect on that decision? Not meant as criticism but genuinely curious as to process, being a new modeler. I'm enjoying watching your build log! -
Byrnes Table Saw Configeration
GGibson replied to Guyuti's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Reading all of this with great interest, as I've sent Jim & Donna a message on their website for when they return from their break. Appreciate all of the recommendations given above... 👍 -
I have sent Jim & Donna an email/message on their website, anxiously waiting for them to return from their time off. 👍👍
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Excellent work, Wizard! Never really thought about a name plate for my first few ships. Great idea!
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- Model Shipways
- Shipwright Series
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Great detailed (and tiny!) work...!
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Titanic by Tsm209 - 1/100
GGibson replied to Tsm209's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1901 - Present Day
It's going to be HUGE! Will watch with great interest. -
John - Here's some info in L.B. Jenson's Bluenose II - Saga of the Great Fishing Schooners on page 43 regarding ensigns, flags and masthead pennants. I am posting a picture of the page, but the typeset is difficult to read in the book, let alone with my poor photography skills, so I'll type here what is said about each item, as well. Upper Left - Canadian Blue Ensign to 1965 - This ensign only could be flown under the authority of a Canadian Government warranty. Worn by Canadian merchant ships commanded by Naval Reserve Officers & with a percentage of Reservist crew. This was worn by Bluenose II. Middle Left - National Flag of Canada from 1965 - This ensign has been worn by Bluenose II and all other Canadian merchant ships since February 1965. Red on white. Lower Left - The Flag of Nova Scotia - Worn on the Stbd. spreader. Blue cross on white. Red badge on gold. Center Top - Name Flag - 7 feet by 30 feet (approx.) Center Middle - The Oland House Flag - Gold - griffon, rivers and sails. Black - background of griffon, balls & hull. Blue - flags on ship. In accordance with usual maritime custom, schooners wore the house flags of their companies. Center Bottom - Nova Scotia Schooner Association - blue cross, red vessel. This pennant was presented by the Association and Bluenose II was designated "Queen of the Nova Scotia Schooner Association Fleet" Very Center Bottom - Courtesy Flags - It is the custom among merchant ships when entering a foreign port to fly the colours of that country at the fore masthead, and, when leaving, similarly to fly the colours of the port to which they are immediately bound. Upper Right - The Canadian Ten Cent Silver Coin, first minted 1st January 1937 Lower Right - The Canadian Fifty Cent Bluenose stamp, blue, 6th January, 1929.
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Sorry, John! I'll be quiet now... 🤣🤣
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I have trouble soldering something at 7.64", let alone 7/64"... Speaking of the flag halliard, though, did you find a resource for a Canadian Red Ensign flag, or are you making your own? Continuing to look awesome, John! Totally envious..! Great work! I'll get there... eventually.
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Thanks, John! Plenty of great build logs to refer to, as well, including your current progress! 👍 And, yes, some great info/drawings on shrouds and rigging in the book. Will definitely be researching more. I mentioned working on anchors and cathead next, but I still need to put the chainplates in, so better do that before I knock the crap out of a cathead while drilling for the brass strip slots. I'm sure I had a valid reason for waiting until now to do these chainplates and deadeyes... <eyeroll>
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A small update, but an update, nonetheless... Time to get the windlass and other machinery placed on the deck. While everything was pretty straight-forward, it was definitely tedious, small-scale work. First thing I needed to do, though, as a pretty new ship modeler who had no real nautical experience, I needed to familiarize myself with the total operation of the windlass, how it affects the anchoring, hoisting the sails, hoisting cargo, etc. As I began this Bluenose build, another local builder whom I had met at a KC-area club meeting provided me with several books from his library. One of those was Bluenose II - Saga of the Great Fishing Schooners by L.B. Jenson. Others here on MSW have mentioned this book in some of their posts. In this book, the author discusses details of not only the Bluenose II, but the original Bluenose 1921. On pages 54-55 of the book, he has descriptions and drawings of the windlass and associated machinery, and the working anchors and cables. Very interesting and informative! (My apologies for any blurry photo shots.) All of the kit-provided cast metal pieces were in pretty good shape. Just needed some cleaning. The chain whelp side of the windlass barrel was lined with 1/64" brass strips using CA glue. The wood whelp side of the windlass was a little more tricky, as it was fitted with some very small pieces of 1/16" & 3/32" square strips, and it took a few tries to get something that looked decent enough to call good. The counter shaft assembly and the other winch machinery, including the arch that will make up the jumbo jib boom crutch, all came together pretty well. I also added the brake beam to the top of the bowsprit and added, as best I could, a thin brass rod from the brake beam down to the quadrants attached to the windlass barrel. Before it got too tight and busy on the deck for me to do it, I also added the claw chain stopper to the port side of the samson post, as was shown in Mr. Jenson's book. In order to simulate the gear chain on the windlass, I opted to not take any jewelry from my wife's jewelry box... I'M JOKING!... and I purchased some of the Mantua black chain that Model Expo had advertised on their website. This chain is approximately 24 links/inch. In reading what would be appropriate size chain for a 1:64 scale project like the Bluenose, I saw somewhere in the 22-24 links per inch range. The chain is definitely tiny, but didn't want the chain to look oversized on the deck, as I will also use this chain for the anchors and a display of a few flakes on the deck and in the chain box. Hopefully, it will look good. So... working on the anchors is probably the next thing on my Bluenose to-do list. Again, the aforementioned book by Mr. Jenson, on page 55, discusses working anchors and cables, their normal stowage positions, and how the cathead is shifted from port to starboard, depending on whether the club anchor or fishing anchor is prepared to be let go. Again, very interesting and informative.
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MicroMark or another similar precision tool company may have what you are looking for. Maybe a Harbor Freight close to where you live?
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Hi Barbara! When you say "portable drill", are you referring to something like a pin vise, that you would manually use with small micro bits of 0.05"/1.3mm? Or are you looking for a power tool drill, still using micro bits? I recently purchased a Proxxon TBM115 bench drill press, and I am loving it.
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Great Photo Etched Saw Blades
GGibson replied to kurtvd19's topic in NAUTICAL RESEARCH GUILD - News & Information
So, just a quick update and acknowledgement... After Kurt's initial post here providing additional information regarding my query during the NRG Virtual Workshop a few Saturdays ago, and several other members' agreement on the quality of the product, I got on John Votech's UMM-USA website this afternoon and ordered the Micro Saw Pack. I received an email acknowledgement of the order at 6:51PM, and at 7:12PM I received a notice that a USPS tracking number had been assigned to the shipment! What great customer service! And, just before I came on here to give him kudos, I sent John a personal thank you email for his speed and, while typing this post, received another thank you from him for doing business with him. All over one simple purchase. Those are the people we continue to work with! Thanks, Kurt, for the info! -
I am not a paint expert, but I have been using acrylic paint on my hand-brushed Bluenose. Goes on the wood well (after a white primer underneath) with a couple of coats on the hull, and the brushes clean up nicely with water and a drop of Dawn detergent.
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