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ERS Rich

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Everything posted by ERS Rich

  1. Almost ready to assemble the fuselage. Typical techniques, pre-shading with flat black Tamiya XF-1, Zinc Chromate coat Vallejo Model Air 71.006, control boxes Semi Gloss Black Tamiya X-18 (well thinned), applied with Paasche Talon @20 psi. Note gunsight on the white card - a long way from Revell….
  2. Hi Canute, Thank you, the 1/32 scale version…..
  3. Hello and welcome to Model Ship World!
  4. Korean War version of the Mustang, designated F-51D. A beautiful kit that’s been on the shelf awhile. Here are the engine/cockpit/ equipment sections.
  5. We now have 3 Halftrack types. On to making all the men and their weapons and accoutrement. Giving the Wood & Leather set a try.
  6. Hi David, Before planking the lower hull, between the wale and the keel, consider building out the stern counter first. The counter lower board will give you a straight line for the aft ends of the lower hull planking to meet. The lower hull planking is bounded aft by the counter, forward by the stem, above by the wale, and below by the keel. Check the references/instruction here on MSW and focus on belts, tapering planks, and making sure a plank lies flat along the bulkhead frames. And in a belt, at a bulkhead, the planks in the that belt are generally the same width. This is a big hull, hang in there….. Cheers
  7. Welcome to Model Ship World!
  8. Hi, For better control, suggest, doing the taper with a small block plane upside down in a small vise. Make sure the plane iron is sharp. Mark the bulkhead locations, work from left to right, plane from the first mark to the left end, second mark to the left end, etc. When the plank lies flat on the bulkheads you are there. In a belt, try to have all the planks the same width at each bulkhead location. You did do a good job…..keep going!
  9. Hello and welcome. Your skill set is a great foundation. Looking forward to seeing your work.
  10. Nice job! Looking forward to the Hood…… Cheers
  11. Hi Avi, I paint with Vallejo. For metal I’ve had good results with Mr Metal Primer. And for wood, it needs to be sealed before painting, as mentioned before I go with shellac or a natural stain. And hang in there. A difference at scale between a 6” or a 9” plank isn’t significant. It won’t be noticeable after the cannon and all the deck structures are installed, plus the masts and rigging. Cheers! -Rich
  12. The distance between the black lines, that simulate caulk on the sheet of decking.
  13. Hi, cutting wood is measuring, marking, and removing the waste. First measure to the location of the cut, with a ruler, divider, or some other reference. Second mark the line to cut, with a fine pencil, then a knife. Make light passes across the line with a knife to make an indentation known as a stop. Use a guide, like a block of wood, to make sure the line is horizontal, vertical, or whatever it needs to be. This is the most important step. This line needs to be the final location of the cut. If needed make a practice line on the waste side of the cut, then repeat at the final location. Next remove the waste. Many ways s to do this. Easy at first. I’d drill holes along the center line frame and approach each waste line. Then cutout the frame with nippers or a knife. The hard part is approaching the line. Make small cuts, with say Tamiya mini hand saws. Another idea is just drill two holes on the waste side of each line, then cut the frame with the Tamiya mini saw. Or an Exacto Knife. Good luck, figuring out how you’ll do this is part of the woodworking craft. Checkout YouTube for videos on making “stop cuts”
  14. Welcome to MSW. Always available to answer a question. Good luck with your project!
  15. Hi Peter, I love the spray gun, hope it works out for you. Regarding the deck planking. The butt locations are over frames. At the fore and aft end of a run, used tabs under the waterway. Convenience rather than historical accuracy governed. Given the scale and the relatively small width of a plank found it would be too tedious to taper. And probably not noticed. I’m in the “building a ship model” camp, rather than “building a miniature ship camp”. Thanks for looking at my work, hope it helps with yours…..
  16. First attempt at a face….. He’s a little blotchy because I didn’t let the base coat full dry before blending other shades…. Looks OK from a foot away….
  17. These are fun because they go together quickly. M3A2, outfitted for a Light Machine Gun Squad.
  18. Good Morning, Building 3 variations, M16, shown above with the quad “Ma Deuce” Browning 50 Cal. Here is the M3A2, in progress. Goal is getting up to speed on figure painting. Stay tuned!
  19. Taking a break from Wood for a while…. Cheers!
  20. This fellow does a much better job of explaining what I said above…..thanks
  21. My masking tape preference is Tamiya, place it, then run a finger along the edge for a seal. Inevitable there is some bleed under the edge, so expect some touchup. About applying the paint, airbrushes, like my preferred Paasche Talon, excel at applying a fine lines of paint or covering small areas, not so well covering large areas. When using the Talon, I try to move the brush in parallel passes, easier when painting small parts or areas, to maintain a wet edge, the next pass can overlap.. As the area gets larger there is a tendency to move the air brush in circles - or wave the airbrush. This leads to applying inconsistent amounts of paint, leading to blotchiness, or paint drying on the surface forming a powder. The solution is a larger airbrush - a paint gun, or sprayer designer to apply paint to large areas - like the hull of our Constitution. My preference is the Iwata RG-3l mini gun. I just love the way it lays down Tamiya acrylics. Before the spray gun I’d brush out large areas, using Model Shipways paints - a nice brush and properly thinned paint are important. Try it out on a piece of scrap wood….. Cheers
  22. When making the coamings exploited my cabinetmaking knowledge and the Byrnes saw to cut stock to the profile on the plan…
  23. Hi Peter, missed this post and just noticed. Yes the ports should be symmetrical, on the Port side it looks like the top strake needs to be cut so the port is four strakes high. Here is the Port side of the forward end as it stands right now. The model has been on the shelf for about a year and a half - I’m thinking of taking it up again in the fall… Decided to focus on some plastic this summer. And I noticed another problem, see the gunport is low by a strake. How I missed this is a mystery to me. Can’t believe I didn’t notice this while masking. Oh well, such is model building.
  24. Welcome. Start with something small and inexpensive. Open boat, fishing boat, a single mast at the most. Something that can be quickly finished. Check the post about those who start big projects and never finish. Good luck with it….
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