DocBlake
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DocBlake got a reaction from CiscoH in British Capstan circa 1777 by DocBlake - FINISHED - 1:16 Scale
The parts of the drumhead were glued together and 12 bolts were added to hold the iron ring to the structure.
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DocBlake got a reaction from CiscoH in British Capstan circa 1777 by DocBlake - FINISHED - 1:16 Scale
1) With the barrel completed, the next step is to build the drumhead assembly. The drumhead is a short cylindrically shaped part that has 6 holes around the circumference for the capstan bars to insert. The bars are used to turn the capstan barrel. The drumhead is shaped like a snare drum (duh!). The plans and practicum call for the drumhead to be made from 4 semicircular slices of wood, with the recesses for the capstan bars cut out using a razor saw and various chisels and X-Acto blades. There is a square hole in the lower drumhead which fits onto a square extension from the top of the capstan barrel. I gave it a try and soon realized there had to be a better way. Or at least an EASIER way! I cut out two pieces of boxwood for the upper and lower part of the drumhead. I then cut some stock that was as thick as the 6 holes for the capstan bars were tall. I cut out pie-slice shaped pieces and glued them to the lower drumhead part. When the upper part is added, the result is a finished drumhead with 6 perfectly shaped and spaced holes. The first photo shows Toni’s parts for the drumhead. The second two are my initial attempt. The rest are the sequence I used to make the part.
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DocBlake got a reaction from SJSoane in British Capstan circa 1777 by DocBlake - FINISHED - 1:16 Scale
As noted above, I cut the chocks oversized and custom fit them to the notches on the whelps. The lower chocks are larger than the upper. Once installed, the lower chocks were sanded convex and the upper sanded concave. Chock bolts were then installed. A gasket was made of 1/32” plywood to raise the capstan barrel up a tiny bit above the step so the barrel doesn’t “drag” on the step when turned. Finally a 5/8” diameter barrel bottom was added to mount the capstan barrel in the 5/8” hole in the capstan step.
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DocBlake got a reaction from CiscoH in British Capstan circa 1777 by DocBlake - FINISHED - 1:16 Scale
The 5 whelps are next glued unto the recesses of the capstan barrel. The edges of the flat surfaces where the whelps contact the barrel are beveled slightly before gluing to ensure a tight, clean fit. The upper and lower chocks are of different sizes and shapes. I cut the oversized in two dimensions for a custom fit. You can see the start of the process in the final photo.
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DocBlake got a reaction from CiscoH in British Capstan circa 1777 by DocBlake - FINISHED - 1:16 Scale
All five whelps are identical and they sit on the “recessed” faces of the barrel polyhedron. The first step is to cut out five blanks for the whelps (and a couple extra) and shape their profile. I used rubber cement to glue the template pattern for each whelp to the boxwood blank. I cut them out with the scroll saw and used files, sanding sticks and a disk sander to define the final shape. There are two pair of notches on each whelp, one at the top and another pair near the bottom. These are for fitting the upper and lower chocks. It’s a custom fit, and comes a little later. The notches can be cut with a chisel, but I found a sharp X-Acto works better! The first photo is a detail of the whelps from the plans. The second shows the steps Toni used to shape the whelps. It comes from the practicum. The last photos are my whelps, with the chock bolts in place.
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DocBlake got a reaction from Cathead in British Capstan circa 1777 by DocBlake - FINISHED - 1:16 Scale
I decided to use a single treenail at each joint on the grating because I thought the two diagonally placed ones might be too busy looking. These are not actual treenail…just marks in the wood made with an awl. The effect is subtle, which is what I was going for. The hatch coaming is bloodwood. I added the capstan step bolts and made up the step brakes and installed them. I decided to add some deck planking. The wood is hornbeam. Pale like holly but with a slight gray cast. I kind of like it. The only thing left is to finish up the drumhead on the capstan and add the bars.
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DocBlake got a reaction from Canute in British Capstan circa 1777 by DocBlake - FINISHED - 1:16 Scale
I decided to use a single treenail at each joint on the grating because I thought the two diagonally placed ones might be too busy looking. These are not actual treenail…just marks in the wood made with an awl. The effect is subtle, which is what I was going for. The hatch coaming is bloodwood. I added the capstan step bolts and made up the step brakes and installed them. I decided to add some deck planking. The wood is hornbeam. Pale like holly but with a slight gray cast. I kind of like it. The only thing left is to finish up the drumhead on the capstan and add the bars.
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DocBlake got a reaction from bruce d in British Capstan circa 1777 by DocBlake - FINISHED - 1:16 Scale
I decided to use a single treenail at each joint on the grating because I thought the two diagonally placed ones might be too busy looking. These are not actual treenail…just marks in the wood made with an awl. The effect is subtle, which is what I was going for. The hatch coaming is bloodwood. I added the capstan step bolts and made up the step brakes and installed them. I decided to add some deck planking. The wood is hornbeam. Pale like holly but with a slight gray cast. I kind of like it. The only thing left is to finish up the drumhead on the capstan and add the bars.
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DocBlake got a reaction from usedtosail in British Capstan circa 1777 by DocBlake - FINISHED - 1:16 Scale
I decided to use a single treenail at each joint on the grating because I thought the two diagonally placed ones might be too busy looking. These are not actual treenail…just marks in the wood made with an awl. The effect is subtle, which is what I was going for. The hatch coaming is bloodwood. I added the capstan step bolts and made up the step brakes and installed them. I decided to add some deck planking. The wood is hornbeam. Pale like holly but with a slight gray cast. I kind of like it. The only thing left is to finish up the drumhead on the capstan and add the bars.
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DocBlake got a reaction from Ryland Craze in British Capstan circa 1777 by DocBlake - FINISHED - 1:16 Scale
I decided to use a single treenail at each joint on the grating because I thought the two diagonally placed ones might be too busy looking. These are not actual treenail…just marks in the wood made with an awl. The effect is subtle, which is what I was going for. The hatch coaming is bloodwood. I added the capstan step bolts and made up the step brakes and installed them. I decided to add some deck planking. The wood is hornbeam. Pale like holly but with a slight gray cast. I kind of like it. The only thing left is to finish up the drumhead on the capstan and add the bars.
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DocBlake got a reaction from Canute in British Capstan circa 1777 by DocBlake - FINISHED - 1:16 Scale
To give a sense of scale, I made a mockup of an average Royal Navy sailor in 1777 for comparison. He stands 5'6" tall, about average for the time.
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DocBlake got a reaction from GrandpaPhil in British Capstan circa 1777 by DocBlake - FINISHED - 1:16 Scale
I decided to use a single treenail at each joint on the grating because I thought the two diagonally placed ones might be too busy looking. These are not actual treenail…just marks in the wood made with an awl. The effect is subtle, which is what I was going for. The hatch coaming is bloodwood. I added the capstan step bolts and made up the step brakes and installed them. I decided to add some deck planking. The wood is hornbeam. Pale like holly but with a slight gray cast. I kind of like it. The only thing left is to finish up the drumhead on the capstan and add the bars.
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DocBlake got a reaction from Canute in British Capstan circa 1777 by DocBlake - FINISHED - 1:16 Scale
The only problem is that the ring size is fixed. The 1.5 mm looper makes ringbolts with a 1/16" ID. That's 3 scale inches at 1:48 scale. Almost perfect for rigging cannons etc.
https://www.amazon.com/Beadsmith-Millimeter-Consistent-Bracelets-Necklaces/dp/B00BOZ79UO?th=1
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DocBlake got a reaction from Ryland Craze in British Capstan circa 1777 by DocBlake - FINISHED - 1:16 Scale
To give a sense of scale, I made a mockup of an average Royal Navy sailor in 1777 for comparison. He stands 5'6" tall, about average for the time.
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DocBlake got a reaction from CiscoH in British Capstan circa 1777 by DocBlake - FINISHED - 1:16 Scale
I decided to use a single treenail at each joint on the grating because I thought the two diagonally placed ones might be too busy looking. These are not actual treenail…just marks in the wood made with an awl. The effect is subtle, which is what I was going for. The hatch coaming is bloodwood. I added the capstan step bolts and made up the step brakes and installed them. I decided to add some deck planking. The wood is hornbeam. Pale like holly but with a slight gray cast. I kind of like it. The only thing left is to finish up the drumhead on the capstan and add the bars.
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DocBlake got a reaction from garyshipwright in Granado 1742 by DocBlake - FINISHED - 1:32 Scale - Bomb Vessel Cross-Section
Thanks for your input, guys! I made a decision!
I finished planking the bulwarks except for the plank sheers. This was done in boxwood, including the black strake. The upper and lowers wales are ebony. I chose to make the center "filling wale" out of boxwood for the contrast. In the AOTS series, both HMS Blandford and Royal Yacht Caroline have this arrangement for the wales. I decided not to use hooked scarf joint on the ebony wales since they wouldn't show up well. The filling wale joints are typically butt joints but I took some license and made a couple of hook scarfs: one on each side.
I cut some holly planking and dyed it an aqua/turquoise blue. I used Transfast water soluble dye so I could glue the planks without worrying if the glue would hold. Do you guys like the look, or is it "too much" for a natural wood model? I'm not committed to anything yet. Those planks are just sitting there!
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DocBlake got a reaction from Seventynet in British Capstan circa 1777 by DocBlake - FINISHED - 1:16 Scale
To give a sense of scale, I made a mockup of an average Royal Navy sailor in 1777 for comparison. He stands 5'6" tall, about average for the time.
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DocBlake got a reaction from greenstone in British Capstan circa 1777 by DocBlake - FINISHED - 1:16 Scale
The capstan bars are held in place in the drumhead bu long ring bolts that pass through the upper drumhead, the capstan bar in it’s mortise and then the lower drumhead, locking the bar in place. The ringbolts are removable to remove the bars and are attach by a chain to some permanently mounted ringbolts around the center of the drumhead. Because the bars will not be removable on this model, the ringbolts are much shorter than they would be. I used .032” brass and a special jewelry-making tool that fashions ring bolts or eyebolts. They are blackened with dilute Birchwood Casey Brass Black. The chain is from Michael’s craft store. The ringbolts attached to the loose end of the chain will be glued in place once the bars are in position.
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DocBlake got a reaction from KentM in British Capstan circa 1777 by DocBlake - FINISHED - 1:16 Scale
To give a sense of scale, I made a mockup of an average Royal Navy sailor in 1777 for comparison. He stands 5'6" tall, about average for the time.
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DocBlake got a reaction from Cathead in British Capstan circa 1777 by DocBlake - FINISHED - 1:16 Scale
To give a sense of scale, I made a mockup of an average Royal Navy sailor in 1777 for comparison. He stands 5'6" tall, about average for the time.
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DocBlake got a reaction from JpR62 in British Capstan circa 1777 by DocBlake - FINISHED - 1:16 Scale
To give a sense of scale, I made a mockup of an average Royal Navy sailor in 1777 for comparison. He stands 5'6" tall, about average for the time.
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DocBlake got a reaction from mtaylor in British Capstan circa 1777 by DocBlake - FINISHED - 1:16 Scale
To give a sense of scale, I made a mockup of an average Royal Navy sailor in 1777 for comparison. He stands 5'6" tall, about average for the time.
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DocBlake got a reaction from Matt D in British Capstan circa 1777 by DocBlake - FINISHED - 1:16 Scale
To give a sense of scale, I made a mockup of an average Royal Navy sailor in 1777 for comparison. He stands 5'6" tall, about average for the time.
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DocBlake got a reaction from GrandpaPhil in British Capstan circa 1777 by DocBlake - FINISHED - 1:16 Scale
To give a sense of scale, I made a mockup of an average Royal Navy sailor in 1777 for comparison. He stands 5'6" tall, about average for the time.
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DocBlake got a reaction from Cathead in British Capstan circa 1777 by DocBlake - FINISHED - 1:16 Scale
The capstan bars are held in place in the drumhead bu long ring bolts that pass through the upper drumhead, the capstan bar in it’s mortise and then the lower drumhead, locking the bar in place. The ringbolts are removable to remove the bars and are attach by a chain to some permanently mounted ringbolts around the center of the drumhead. Because the bars will not be removable on this model, the ringbolts are much shorter than they would be. I used .032” brass and a special jewelry-making tool that fashions ring bolts or eyebolts. They are blackened with dilute Birchwood Casey Brass Black. The chain is from Michael’s craft store. The ringbolts attached to the loose end of the chain will be glued in place once the bars are in position.
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