DocBlake

The capstan bars are held in place in the drumhead bu long ring bolts that pass through the upper drumhead, the capstan bar in it’s mortise and then the lower drumhead, locking the bar in place.  The ringbolts are removable to remove the bars and are attach by a chain to some permanently mounted ringbolts around the center of the drumhead.  Because the bars will not be removable on this model, the ringbolts are much shorter than they would be.  I used .032” brass and a special jewelry-making tool that fashions ring bolts or eyebolts.  They are blackened with dilute Birchwood Casey Brass Black.  The chain is from Michael’s craft store.  The ringbolts attached to the loose end of the chain  will be glued in place once the bars are in position.

The only problem is that the ring size is fixed.  The 1.5 mm looper makes ringbolts with a 1/16" ID.  That's 3 scale inches at 1:48 scale.  Almost perfect for rigging cannons etc.
 
https://www.amazon.com/Beadsmith-Millimeter-Consistent-Bracelets-Necklaces/dp/B00BOZ79UO?th=1

The only problem is that the ring size is fixed.  The 1.5 mm looper makes ringbolts with a 1/16" ID.  That's 3 scale inches at 1:48 scale.  Almost perfect for rigging cannons etc.
 
https://www.amazon.com/Beadsmith-Millimeter-Consistent-Bracelets-Necklaces/dp/B00BOZ79UO?th=1

The capstan bars are held in place in the drumhead bu long ring bolts that pass through the upper drumhead, the capstan bar in it’s mortise and then the lower drumhead, locking the bar in place.  The ringbolts are removable to remove the bars and are attach by a chain to some permanently mounted ringbolts around the center of the drumhead.  Because the bars will not be removable on this model, the ringbolts are much shorter than they would be.  I used .032” brass and a special jewelry-making tool that fashions ring bolts or eyebolts.  They are blackened with dilute Birchwood Casey Brass Black.  The chain is from Michael’s craft store.  The ringbolts attached to the loose end of the chain  will be glued in place once the bars are in position.

The capstan bars are held in place in the drumhead bu long ring bolts that pass through the upper drumhead, the capstan bar in it’s mortise and then the lower drumhead, locking the bar in place.  The ringbolts are removable to remove the bars and are attach by a chain to some permanently mounted ringbolts around the center of the drumhead.  Because the bars will not be removable on this model, the ringbolts are much shorter than they would be.  I used .032” brass and a special jewelry-making tool that fashions ring bolts or eyebolts.  They are blackened with dilute Birchwood Casey Brass Black.  The chain is from Michael’s craft store.  The ringbolts attached to the loose end of the chain  will be glued in place once the bars are in position.

Getting closer to the end.  I found a nice piece of walnut cutoff that was about the right size for the model base.  A few minutes at the miter saw and the router table and the base was done.  Next came the wipe on poly.  The capstan bars are made of swiss pear.  They are tapered, and have a tenon cut into the proximal ends which fit into the square mortises in the drumhead. A little poly applied to all the parts.  The bars fit pretty well!!  

The capstan bars are held in place in the drumhead bu long ring bolts that pass through the upper drumhead, the capstan bar in it’s mortise and then the lower drumhead, locking the bar in place.  The ringbolts are removable to remove the bars and are attach by a chain to some permanently mounted ringbolts around the center of the drumhead.  Because the bars will not be removable on this model, the ringbolts are much shorter than they would be.  I used .032” brass and a special jewelry-making tool that fashions ring bolts or eyebolts.  They are blackened with dilute Birchwood Casey Brass Black.  The chain is from Michael’s craft store.  The ringbolts attached to the loose end of the chain  will be glued in place once the bars are in position.

Getting closer to the end.  I found a nice piece of walnut cutoff that was about the right size for the model base.  A few minutes at the miter saw and the router table and the base was done.  Next came the wipe on poly.  The capstan bars are made of swiss pear.  They are tapered, and have a tenon cut into the proximal ends which fit into the square mortises in the drumhead. A little poly applied to all the parts.  The bars fit pretty well!!  

Getting closer to the end.  I found a nice piece of walnut cutoff that was about the right size for the model base.  A few minutes at the miter saw and the router table and the base was done.  Next came the wipe on poly.  The capstan bars are made of swiss pear.  They are tapered, and have a tenon cut into the proximal ends which fit into the square mortises in the drumhead. A little poly applied to all the parts.  The bars fit pretty well!!  

Getting closer to the end.  I found a nice piece of walnut cutoff that was about the right size for the model base.  A few minutes at the miter saw and the router table and the base was done.  Next came the wipe on poly.  The capstan bars are made of swiss pear.  They are tapered, and have a tenon cut into the proximal ends which fit into the square mortises in the drumhead. A little poly applied to all the parts.  The bars fit pretty well!!  

Getting closer to the end.  I found a nice piece of walnut cutoff that was about the right size for the model base.  A few minutes at the miter saw and the router table and the base was done.  Next came the wipe on poly.  The capstan bars are made of swiss pear.  They are tapered, and have a tenon cut into the proximal ends which fit into the square mortises in the drumhead. A little poly applied to all the parts.  The bars fit pretty well!!  

Getting closer to the end.  I found a nice piece of walnut cutoff that was about the right size for the model base.  A few minutes at the miter saw and the router table and the base was done.  Next came the wipe on poly.  The capstan bars are made of swiss pear.  They are tapered, and have a tenon cut into the proximal ends which fit into the square mortises in the drumhead. A little poly applied to all the parts.  The bars fit pretty well!!  

Getting closer to the end.  I found a nice piece of walnut cutoff that was about the right size for the model base.  A few minutes at the miter saw and the router table and the base was done.  Next came the wipe on poly.  The capstan bars are made of swiss pear.  They are tapered, and have a tenon cut into the proximal ends which fit into the square mortises in the drumhead. A little poly applied to all the parts.  The bars fit pretty well!!  

Getting closer to the end.  I found a nice piece of walnut cutoff that was about the right size for the model base.  A few minutes at the miter saw and the router table and the base was done.  Next came the wipe on poly.  The capstan bars are made of swiss pear.  They are tapered, and have a tenon cut into the proximal ends which fit into the square mortises in the drumhead. A little poly applied to all the parts.  The bars fit pretty well!!  

Getting closer to the end.  I found a nice piece of walnut cutoff that was about the right size for the model base.  A few minutes at the miter saw and the router table and the base was done.  Next came the wipe on poly.  The capstan bars are made of swiss pear.  They are tapered, and have a tenon cut into the proximal ends which fit into the square mortises in the drumhead. A little poly applied to all the parts.  The bars fit pretty well!!  

Getting closer to the end.  I found a nice piece of walnut cutoff that was about the right size for the model base.  A few minutes at the miter saw and the router table and the base was done.  Next came the wipe on poly.  The capstan bars are made of swiss pear.  They are tapered, and have a tenon cut into the proximal ends which fit into the square mortises in the drumhead. A little poly applied to all the parts.  The bars fit pretty well!!  

To assemble the grating, I started by making a quick, simple jig to keep the assembly square.  Make sure the sides of the jig are no taller than the the level of the notches for the battens.  They should be about 1/16" below the batten level.  This helps prevent gluing the grating to the jig!  Set the first and last grating ledges in the jig and then glue the first and last battens in place, making sure everything is square until the glue dries.  This is the critical step!  If the first two ledges and battens are square, so will the grating be.  Continue adding ledges, using a spare ledge as a spacer and fitting battens into the notches until the grating is complete.  Use a razor saw to remove the ends of the battens.  Sand the grating and it’s done!   
 
 
 
          

After prepping the blank for the ledges (cutting the batten notches), I started with the battens.  The notches for the battens were cut freehand in the Byrnes saw. I didn’t use an indexing pin like you would with a box joint jig.  I’m pretty good at this, and my notches on the ledges vary in width from one another by only a few thousandths of an inch.  The eye can’t discern any differences.  Make sure the depth of cut is equal to the thickness of the battens or slightly less.  Lock the blade height!
 
  Then cut out the battens, more than needed, and making them slightly wider than needed to fit in the notches.  Use the fence and the fine micrometer adjustment on the Byrnes to “sneak up” on each individual batten.  A custom fit for each batten!  
 
Next, use a slitting blade on the Byrnes and slice off the grating ledges.  I cut about twice what I needed (14).  Using boxwood, and at this large scale, I didn’t have one broken tooth!  Each of those ledges has a pencil mark near one end on the back side so all the slightly varied notches for the battens line up.  

 

Getting closer to the end.  I found a nice piece of walnut cutoff that was about the right size for the model base.  A few minutes at the miter saw and the router table and the base was done.  Next came the wipe on poly.  The capstan bars are made of swiss pear.  They are tapered, and have a tenon cut into the proximal ends which fit into the square mortises in the drumhead. A little poly applied to all the parts.  The bars fit pretty well!!  

To assemble the grating, I started by making a quick, simple jig to keep the assembly square.  Make sure the sides of the jig are no taller than the the level of the notches for the battens.  They should be about 1/16" below the batten level.  This helps prevent gluing the grating to the jig!  Set the first and last grating ledges in the jig and then glue the first and last battens in place, making sure everything is square until the glue dries.  This is the critical step!  If the first two ledges and battens are square, so will the grating be.  Continue adding ledges, using a spare ledge as a spacer and fitting battens into the notches until the grating is complete.  Use a razor saw to remove the ends of the battens.  Sand the grating and it’s done!   
 
 
 
          

To assemble the grating, I started by making a quick, simple jig to keep the assembly square.  Make sure the sides of the jig are no taller than the the level of the notches for the battens.  They should be about 1/16" below the batten level.  This helps prevent gluing the grating to the jig!  Set the first and last grating ledges in the jig and then glue the first and last battens in place, making sure everything is square until the glue dries.  This is the critical step!  If the first two ledges and battens are square, so will the grating be.  Continue adding ledges, using a spare ledge as a spacer and fitting battens into the notches until the grating is complete.  Use a razor saw to remove the ends of the battens.  Sand the grating and it’s done!   
 
 
 
          

To assemble the grating, I started by making a quick, simple jig to keep the assembly square.  Make sure the sides of the jig are no taller than the the level of the notches for the battens.  They should be about 1/16" below the batten level.  This helps prevent gluing the grating to the jig!  Set the first and last grating ledges in the jig and then glue the first and last battens in place, making sure everything is square until the glue dries.  This is the critical step!  If the first two ledges and battens are square, so will the grating be.  Continue adding ledges, using a spare ledge as a spacer and fitting battens into the notches until the grating is complete.  Use a razor saw to remove the ends of the battens.  Sand the grating and it’s done!   
 
 
 
          

After prepping the blank for the ledges (cutting the batten notches), I started with the battens.  The notches for the battens were cut freehand in the Byrnes saw. I didn’t use an indexing pin like you would with a box joint jig.  I’m pretty good at this, and my notches on the ledges vary in width from one another by only a few thousandths of an inch.  The eye can’t discern any differences.  Make sure the depth of cut is equal to the thickness of the battens or slightly less.  Lock the blade height!
 
  Then cut out the battens, more than needed, and making them slightly wider than needed to fit in the notches.  Use the fence and the fine micrometer adjustment on the Byrnes to “sneak up” on each individual batten.  A custom fit for each batten!  
 
Next, use a slitting blade on the Byrnes and slice off the grating ledges.  I cut about twice what I needed (14).  Using boxwood, and at this large scale, I didn’t have one broken tooth!  Each of those ledges has a pencil mark near one end on the back side so all the slightly varied notches for the battens line up.  

 

I anticipated the hatch grating would be the toughest job in the build, so I put it off until near the end. The practicum outlines a couple of methods of making the grating, but both require gluing up individual grating ledges into a “sandwich” with PVA glue and then dissolving the glue in isopropyl alcohol once the notches for the battens are cut. I took a little different approach. I did this all with a Byrnes saw and a disk sander, so most scratch builders can use the same technique First, I decided to build the hatch coamings to fit the grating and not vice versa. The gratings are made of 2 different parts : The grating ledges – the parts with the “teeth” that define the holes in the grating, and the battens, which fit into the spaces between the teeth. The ledges are 3/16” thick and the battens are 3/64” thick. The teeth and the space between them are all 5/32” square. I milled some 3/16” boxwood for the ledges and glued a grating ledge side template to the edge of the strip. Preset the depth of cut to 3/64”. I then carefully cut the teeth and recesses for the battens. A sliding table for the Byrnes saw makes this easy work, but you can do a fine job with just the miter gauge. Once the grooves for the battens are cut, turn the blank over and draw a line across the bottom of the blank, parallel to the grooves and close to one end. This will orient the pieces when it comes time to assemble the grating. Mill a piece of boxwood 3/64” thick. We’re ready to cut ledges and battens. The last photo shows the pencil line on the back of the blank, parallel to the grooves.
 
 


 

The parts of the drumhead were glued together and 12 bolts were added to hold the iron ring to the structure.