DocBlake

I like the idea of filing a nail flat. That's the tool I've been missing, something to really square off those edges (my file wasn't doing it properly). Thank you!

This should go in the keeper files. Good photos and excellent explanation. 

Thanks Chuck for your comments.  Your work inspires all of us to try to do better with our builds.
 
 
 
Cathead, I really struggled with making my windlass.  It took me three attempts until I finally made a windlass that I was satisfied with.  I am going to try to explain how I made mine.
 
I made a jig by cutting some scrap wood at 45 degree angles and I placed my windlass in the "V" that was formed with the scrap wood.
 

 
I then used sanding sticks to shape the windlass being careful to keep it horizontal to the wood base.
 

 
Once I had the shape of the windlass, I made another jig to drill the holes in the windlass. 
 

 
I used a #61 drill bit in my pin vise and would twist it several turns.  Then I would keep rotating the windlass until I drilled all four sides of the windlass.  The holes would eventually go all the way thru the windlass, meeting in the center of the windlass.
 

 
The windlass now has round holes.  To get them square, I placed the windlass on a flat piece of wood.  I then placed a piece of old planking material to use as a resting place for a small four sided file.  I then pushed the file, with pressure against the wooden base, into the round holes in my windlass.  It is important to keep the flat side of the file horizontal to the wood base.  The flats of the windlass will lie naturally flat on the wood base.
 

 
The final step was to open up the hole to about .045 inch.  I had taken a finishing nail and filed the point square and pushed it into the square hole made by my square file.  I filed the corners of the nail so that it left a crisp square edge.  Once I finished with the square holes, I placed a small bit of wood into the windlass hole to fill the interior of the hole so that you could not see all the way through the hole.
 

 
This was quite a challenge for me and I had many failed attempts trying other methods.  I finally got thru this and am now able to continue on with the build.  If you have any other questions, please do not hesitate to ask me.
 
 

I finished the interior ironwork.  I definitely appreciate the work of the Longboat builders before me as I had trouble with the small locker hinges and ironwork due to my stubby fingers.  I also had several pieces that mysteriously disappeared from the tip of my tweezers never to be found again.
 

 
Here is a picture of the longboat with the thwarts installed.  All that is left to do for the interior is to install the six knees on top of the thwarts and against the sides.  I have also decided to redo my belaying pins.
 

The outer planking continues.

 

 

 

 

 

Really looking good, some very nice planking, and it looks like you are going to have a first model that you can be really proud of.

After trying a variety of different methods, I finally found what is working best for me for curving these planks.  I lay 2" clear tape over the plank edge on the hull, trace it as if I were spiling, and cut out a template from the tape.  I stick the tape to my metal work surface, then after soaking the planks (I've found ammonia works better than hot water), I lay them to match the curve in the tape.  I use a bunch of strong magnets to hold down and flatten the inside edge of the curve to prevent the bacon ripple effect.  Then I hit everything with a heat gun to rapidly dry and set the planks.  It only curves in one plane, but as thin as these planks are I find it takes no effort for the glue to hold them in place once the edge shape is correct.
 

 
The flat metallic disc magnets are very good for flattening those ripples.  Once dry and cool, I have a plank that looks as if it were cut that way from flat stock.
 

 
Hopefully the next time I can spare a few hours I will get the outer hull finished.

Thanks, David!
 
I decided to keep the stock ship's wheel.  I played around with scratch building a wheel, but nearly every technique I found required a milling machine. The shipyard has a formal request for one submitted to the Admiralty, but so far no word!
 
I painted the wheel "Milwaukee Road Boxcar Red" which is a pretty good approximation of varnished mahogany.  I may stick with the stock transom lights also. Am I getting a little lazy, or just anxious to finish the model?

Thanks, David!
 
I decided to keep the stock ship's wheel.  I played around with scratch building a wheel, but nearly every technique I found required a milling machine. The shipyard has a formal request for one submitted to the Admiralty, but so far no word!
 
I painted the wheel "Milwaukee Road Boxcar Red" which is a pretty good approximation of varnished mahogany.  I may stick with the stock transom lights also. Am I getting a little lazy, or just anxious to finish the model?

Great work, David!  I scaled back the rigging on my MS AVS because of the same problem:  The blocks were way too big for rigging a 3 pounder cannon at 1/48 scale!  As to the rope coils, they look great.  On a real ship thy were only formally laid out like that for inspection or when a dignitary was on board.  Obviously the coils couldn't be maintained during battle or even when the vessel was underway.  You can see the same phenomenon at your local yacht club, where lines are neatly coiled on the pier next to the boat, only to be tossed on board, in less than formal fashion when under way.
 
First rate work so far!

Thanks, David!
 
I decided to keep the stock ship's wheel.  I played around with scratch building a wheel, but nearly every technique I found required a milling machine. The shipyard has a formal request for one submitted to the Admiralty, but so far no word!
 
I painted the wheel "Milwaukee Road Boxcar Red" which is a pretty good approximation of varnished mahogany.  I may stick with the stock transom lights also. Am I getting a little lazy, or just anxious to finish the model?

Doc,
 
Really nice. Your detailing combined with wood choices makes it all pop. I love it.  .  .  .
 
Respectfully,
John

Thanks, David!
 
I decided to keep the stock ship's wheel.  I played around with scratch building a wheel, but nearly every technique I found required a milling machine. The shipyard has a formal request for one submitted to the Admiralty, but so far no word!
 
I painted the wheel "Milwaukee Road Boxcar Red" which is a pretty good approximation of varnished mahogany.  I may stick with the stock transom lights also. Am I getting a little lazy, or just anxious to finish the model?

Thanks, David!
 
I decided to keep the stock ship's wheel.  I played around with scratch building a wheel, but nearly every technique I found required a milling machine. The shipyard has a formal request for one submitted to the Admiralty, but so far no word!
 
I painted the wheel "Milwaukee Road Boxcar Red" which is a pretty good approximation of varnished mahogany.  I may stick with the stock transom lights also. Am I getting a little lazy, or just anxious to finish the model?

Thanks, David!
 
I decided to keep the stock ship's wheel.  I played around with scratch building a wheel, but nearly every technique I found required a milling machine. The shipyard has a formal request for one submitted to the Admiralty, but so far no word!
 
I painted the wheel "Milwaukee Road Boxcar Red" which is a pretty good approximation of varnished mahogany.  I may stick with the stock transom lights also. Am I getting a little lazy, or just anxious to finish the model?

Thanks, David!
 
I decided to keep the stock ship's wheel.  I played around with scratch building a wheel, but nearly every technique I found required a milling machine. The shipyard has a formal request for one submitted to the Admiralty, but so far no word!
 
I painted the wheel "Milwaukee Road Boxcar Red" which is a pretty good approximation of varnished mahogany.  I may stick with the stock transom lights also. Am I getting a little lazy, or just anxious to finish the model?

Thanks, Brian and all for the "likes"
 
Here is the binnacle.  This is similar to Dr. Feldman's original version as well as the MS version from their kit plans.  the top needs 2 more coats of poly, and the hardware needs a coat of Testor's DullCote to knock off the shine.

Thanks, Brian and all for the "likes"
 
Here is the binnacle.  This is similar to Dr. Feldman's original version as well as the MS version from their kit plans.  the top needs 2 more coats of poly, and the hardware needs a coat of Testor's DullCote to knock off the shine.

Thanks, Brian and all for the "likes"
 
Here is the binnacle.  This is similar to Dr. Feldman's original version as well as the MS version from their kit plans.  the top needs 2 more coats of poly, and the hardware needs a coat of Testor's DullCote to knock off the shine.

Thanks, Brian and all for the "likes"
 
Here is the binnacle.  This is similar to Dr. Feldman's original version as well as the MS version from their kit plans.  the top needs 2 more coats of poly, and the hardware needs a coat of Testor's DullCote to knock off the shine.

Thanks, Brian and all for the "likes"
 
Here is the binnacle.  This is similar to Dr. Feldman's original version as well as the MS version from their kit plans.  the top needs 2 more coats of poly, and the hardware needs a coat of Testor's DullCote to knock off the shine.

Back in the shipyard.  I cut the scuppers into the inboard planking, then painted the inside of the sweep ports and gun ports with a sample of Benjamin Moore paint I had that matched the red heart fairly well.  I did add some Dark Vintage Maple TransTint water soluble dye to darken it a little. The deck, planking and framing were given 3 coats of poly.  I'm getting closer to the end.  The binnacle is nearly done (pictures to come).  Then all that's left are the rudder, the ship's wheel, the catheads and swivel gun supports, the guns themselves and the cabin roof framing and planking.  Did I say "nearly done"?

Thanks, Brian and all for the "likes"
 
Here is the binnacle.  This is similar to Dr. Feldman's original version as well as the MS version from their kit plans.  the top needs 2 more coats of poly, and the hardware needs a coat of Testor's DullCote to knock off the shine.

Thanks, Brian and all for the "likes"
 
Here is the binnacle.  This is similar to Dr. Feldman's original version as well as the MS version from their kit plans.  the top needs 2 more coats of poly, and the hardware needs a coat of Testor's DullCote to knock off the shine.

I didn't want to paint the 3-D printed windlass to look like wood, so I made my own out of boxwood and rosewood.  I will keep the ship's wheel, though.  I'll paint it to look like varnished mahogany.