DocBlake
-
Posts
1,811 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Reputation Activity
-
DocBlake got a reaction from popash42 in Granado 1742 by DocBlake - FINISHED - 1:32 Scale - Bomb Vessel Cross-Section
With lots to do around the house, I've not had much modeling time. I did finish the deck planking, though!
I wanted as much deck framing as possible to show, but I still needed to accommodate three long gums. I started the holly planking at the outboard mortar pit bulkhead and worked my way to the waterway. The margin p[lank was custom fit. It turned out to be as wide as the others at it's forward end, with a bit of a taper aft. It turned out pretty well.
-
DocBlake got a reaction from Captain Poison in Granado 1742 by DocBlake - FINISHED - 1:32 Scale - Bomb Vessel Cross-Section
With lots to do around the house, I've not had much modeling time. I did finish the deck planking, though!
I wanted as much deck framing as possible to show, but I still needed to accommodate three long gums. I started the holly planking at the outboard mortar pit bulkhead and worked my way to the waterway. The margin p[lank was custom fit. It turned out to be as wide as the others at it's forward end, with a bit of a taper aft. It turned out pretty well.
-
DocBlake got a reaction from KentM in Granado 1742 by DocBlake - FINISHED - 1:32 Scale - Bomb Vessel Cross-Section
With lots to do around the house, I've not had much modeling time. I did finish the deck planking, though!
I wanted as much deck framing as possible to show, but I still needed to accommodate three long gums. I started the holly planking at the outboard mortar pit bulkhead and worked my way to the waterway. The margin p[lank was custom fit. It turned out to be as wide as the others at it's forward end, with a bit of a taper aft. It turned out pretty well.
-
DocBlake got a reaction from Canute in Granado 1742 by DocBlake - FINISHED - 1:32 Scale - Bomb Vessel Cross-Section
With lots to do around the house, I've not had much modeling time. I did finish the deck planking, though!
I wanted as much deck framing as possible to show, but I still needed to accommodate three long gums. I started the holly planking at the outboard mortar pit bulkhead and worked my way to the waterway. The margin p[lank was custom fit. It turned out to be as wide as the others at it's forward end, with a bit of a taper aft. It turned out pretty well.
-
DocBlake got a reaction from JpR62 in Granado 1742 by DocBlake - FINISHED - 1:32 Scale - Bomb Vessel Cross-Section
With lots to do around the house, I've not had much modeling time. I did finish the deck planking, though!
I wanted as much deck framing as possible to show, but I still needed to accommodate three long gums. I started the holly planking at the outboard mortar pit bulkhead and worked my way to the waterway. The margin p[lank was custom fit. It turned out to be as wide as the others at it's forward end, with a bit of a taper aft. It turned out pretty well.
-
DocBlake got a reaction from Saburo in HMS Winchelsea by Beckmann 1/48
So you say you want to work with wood? All risk is relative! This list will turn your hair white!
https://www.mountainwoodworker.com/articles/toxic_woods.pdf
-
DocBlake got a reaction from garyshipwright in Granado 1742 by DocBlake - FINISHED - 1:32 Scale - Bomb Vessel Cross-Section
Thanks guys. for all the "likes"!
I needed to figure out a way to make the hatch cover boards. I planned on using boxwood for the color contrast. The boards are about 5/64" thick with a very slight curve to them that matches the curved coamings. But bending the curve and getting the precise length right cutting strip stock was going to fail! Too hard to get consistency in the four boards. Here's what I did:
I cut up a boxwood blank the fit into the recess where the boards sit. It was thick enough so it stood just proud of the highest point on the curved coamings. Then I traced the coaming top lines onto the 4 edges of the blank. I used double sided carpet tape to tape the blank to a block of wood, keeping it perpendicular to the table of my disc sander, and parallel to the disk's face. Using my variable speed disk sander on LOW speed, I sanded the curve into the blank!
Once I was satisfied with the curve, I took the blank and simulated the four boards by scoring them in and darkening the score lines with very thin pencil lead. It worked out well!
-
DocBlake got a reaction from Elijah in Philadelphia by Elijah - Model Shipways - 1:24 Scale - Continental Gunboat
Really beautiful, Elijah! I hope I can see her in person next year in Manitowoc!
-
DocBlake got a reaction from Ryland Craze in Medway Longboat 1742 by rafine - FINISHED -1:24 Scale
Beautiful model! Well done, Bob!
-
DocBlake reacted to rafine in Medway Longboat 1742 by rafine - FINISHED -1:24 Scale
Finally, I’ve gotten to finish. This was my New Jersey summer project, but because of COVID we haven’t been here In two years. The last of the rigging has been done, lines have been tightened and coils added. The grapnel is in place. Whew!!
Bob
-
DocBlake got a reaction from Canute in Granado 1742 by DocBlake - FINISHED - 1:32 Scale - Bomb Vessel Cross-Section
Thanks guys. for all the "likes"!
I needed to figure out a way to make the hatch cover boards. I planned on using boxwood for the color contrast. The boards are about 5/64" thick with a very slight curve to them that matches the curved coamings. But bending the curve and getting the precise length right cutting strip stock was going to fail! Too hard to get consistency in the four boards. Here's what I did:
I cut up a boxwood blank the fit into the recess where the boards sit. It was thick enough so it stood just proud of the highest point on the curved coamings. Then I traced the coaming top lines onto the 4 edges of the blank. I used double sided carpet tape to tape the blank to a block of wood, keeping it perpendicular to the table of my disc sander, and parallel to the disk's face. Using my variable speed disk sander on LOW speed, I sanded the curve into the blank!
Once I was satisfied with the curve, I took the blank and simulated the four boards by scoring them in and darkening the score lines with very thin pencil lead. It worked out well!
-
DocBlake got a reaction from popash42 in Granado 1742 by DocBlake - FINISHED - 1:32 Scale - Bomb Vessel Cross-Section
Thanks guys. for all the "likes"!
I needed to figure out a way to make the hatch cover boards. I planned on using boxwood for the color contrast. The boards are about 5/64" thick with a very slight curve to them that matches the curved coamings. But bending the curve and getting the precise length right cutting strip stock was going to fail! Too hard to get consistency in the four boards. Here's what I did:
I cut up a boxwood blank the fit into the recess where the boards sit. It was thick enough so it stood just proud of the highest point on the curved coamings. Then I traced the coaming top lines onto the 4 edges of the blank. I used double sided carpet tape to tape the blank to a block of wood, keeping it perpendicular to the table of my disc sander, and parallel to the disk's face. Using my variable speed disk sander on LOW speed, I sanded the curve into the blank!
Once I was satisfied with the curve, I took the blank and simulated the four boards by scoring them in and darkening the score lines with very thin pencil lead. It worked out well!
-
DocBlake got a reaction from KentM in Granado 1742 by DocBlake - FINISHED - 1:32 Scale - Bomb Vessel Cross-Section
Thanks guys. for all the "likes"!
I needed to figure out a way to make the hatch cover boards. I planned on using boxwood for the color contrast. The boards are about 5/64" thick with a very slight curve to them that matches the curved coamings. But bending the curve and getting the precise length right cutting strip stock was going to fail! Too hard to get consistency in the four boards. Here's what I did:
I cut up a boxwood blank the fit into the recess where the boards sit. It was thick enough so it stood just proud of the highest point on the curved coamings. Then I traced the coaming top lines onto the 4 edges of the blank. I used double sided carpet tape to tape the blank to a block of wood, keeping it perpendicular to the table of my disc sander, and parallel to the disk's face. Using my variable speed disk sander on LOW speed, I sanded the curve into the blank!
Once I was satisfied with the curve, I took the blank and simulated the four boards by scoring them in and darkening the score lines with very thin pencil lead. It worked out well!
-
DocBlake got a reaction from bruce d in Granado 1742 by DocBlake - FINISHED - 1:32 Scale - Bomb Vessel Cross-Section
Thanks guys. for all the "likes"!
I needed to figure out a way to make the hatch cover boards. I planned on using boxwood for the color contrast. The boards are about 5/64" thick with a very slight curve to them that matches the curved coamings. But bending the curve and getting the precise length right cutting strip stock was going to fail! Too hard to get consistency in the four boards. Here's what I did:
I cut up a boxwood blank the fit into the recess where the boards sit. It was thick enough so it stood just proud of the highest point on the curved coamings. Then I traced the coaming top lines onto the 4 edges of the blank. I used double sided carpet tape to tape the blank to a block of wood, keeping it perpendicular to the table of my disc sander, and parallel to the disk's face. Using my variable speed disk sander on LOW speed, I sanded the curve into the blank!
Once I was satisfied with the curve, I took the blank and simulated the four boards by scoring them in and darkening the score lines with very thin pencil lead. It worked out well!
-
DocBlake got a reaction from Ainars Apalais in Granado 1742 by DocBlake - FINISHED - 1:32 Scale - Bomb Vessel Cross-Section
Thanks guys. for all the "likes"!
I needed to figure out a way to make the hatch cover boards. I planned on using boxwood for the color contrast. The boards are about 5/64" thick with a very slight curve to them that matches the curved coamings. But bending the curve and getting the precise length right cutting strip stock was going to fail! Too hard to get consistency in the four boards. Here's what I did:
I cut up a boxwood blank the fit into the recess where the boards sit. It was thick enough so it stood just proud of the highest point on the curved coamings. Then I traced the coaming top lines onto the 4 edges of the blank. I used double sided carpet tape to tape the blank to a block of wood, keeping it perpendicular to the table of my disc sander, and parallel to the disk's face. Using my variable speed disk sander on LOW speed, I sanded the curve into the blank!
Once I was satisfied with the curve, I took the blank and simulated the four boards by scoring them in and darkening the score lines with very thin pencil lead. It worked out well!
-
DocBlake got a reaction from GrandpaPhil in Granado 1742 by DocBlake - FINISHED - 1:32 Scale - Bomb Vessel Cross-Section
Thanks guys. for all the "likes"!
I needed to figure out a way to make the hatch cover boards. I planned on using boxwood for the color contrast. The boards are about 5/64" thick with a very slight curve to them that matches the curved coamings. But bending the curve and getting the precise length right cutting strip stock was going to fail! Too hard to get consistency in the four boards. Here's what I did:
I cut up a boxwood blank the fit into the recess where the boards sit. It was thick enough so it stood just proud of the highest point on the curved coamings. Then I traced the coaming top lines onto the 4 edges of the blank. I used double sided carpet tape to tape the blank to a block of wood, keeping it perpendicular to the table of my disc sander, and parallel to the disk's face. Using my variable speed disk sander on LOW speed, I sanded the curve into the blank!
Once I was satisfied with the curve, I took the blank and simulated the four boards by scoring them in and darkening the score lines with very thin pencil lead. It worked out well!
-
DocBlake got a reaction from Canute in Granado 1742 by DocBlake - FINISHED - 1:32 Scale - Bomb Vessel Cross-Section
I started work on the hatch. The coamings are 7/32" thick bloodwood and jointed by half laps at the four corners. The coamings are also beveled inward by 10 degrees on all four sides. How to do the beveling easily and accurately? I decided on a jig!
Basically the jig is a slice of wood, angled at 10 degrees from the horizontal. When the face of a coaming is sanded such that it is square up against the Byrnes sanders disk, you know the angle is a perfect 10 degrees. The hatch frame is attached to the jig with two sided carpet tape.
Sanding the four sides took about 20 minutes.
-
DocBlake got a reaction from Canute in Granado 1742 by DocBlake - FINISHED - 1:32 Scale - Bomb Vessel Cross-Section
Thanks, guys!
The complicated anatomy of the ends of the angled bulkheads actually makes fitting the outboard and transverse bulkheads easy. They are cut a little long at a 90 degree angle. I then "sneak up" on the final width with the Byrnes sander.
-
DocBlake got a reaction from drjeckl in Granado 1742 by DocBlake - FINISHED - 1:32 Scale - Bomb Vessel Cross-Section
Thanks guys. for all the "likes"!
I needed to figure out a way to make the hatch cover boards. I planned on using boxwood for the color contrast. The boards are about 5/64" thick with a very slight curve to them that matches the curved coamings. But bending the curve and getting the precise length right cutting strip stock was going to fail! Too hard to get consistency in the four boards. Here's what I did:
I cut up a boxwood blank the fit into the recess where the boards sit. It was thick enough so it stood just proud of the highest point on the curved coamings. Then I traced the coaming top lines onto the 4 edges of the blank. I used double sided carpet tape to tape the blank to a block of wood, keeping it perpendicular to the table of my disc sander, and parallel to the disk's face. Using my variable speed disk sander on LOW speed, I sanded the curve into the blank!
Once I was satisfied with the curve, I took the blank and simulated the four boards by scoring them in and darkening the score lines with very thin pencil lead. It worked out well!
-
DocBlake got a reaction from oneslim in Granado 1742 by DocBlake - FINISHED - 1:32 Scale - Bomb Vessel Cross-Section
Thanks guys. for all the "likes"!
I needed to figure out a way to make the hatch cover boards. I planned on using boxwood for the color contrast. The boards are about 5/64" thick with a very slight curve to them that matches the curved coamings. But bending the curve and getting the precise length right cutting strip stock was going to fail! Too hard to get consistency in the four boards. Here's what I did:
I cut up a boxwood blank the fit into the recess where the boards sit. It was thick enough so it stood just proud of the highest point on the curved coamings. Then I traced the coaming top lines onto the 4 edges of the blank. I used double sided carpet tape to tape the blank to a block of wood, keeping it perpendicular to the table of my disc sander, and parallel to the disk's face. Using my variable speed disk sander on LOW speed, I sanded the curve into the blank!
Once I was satisfied with the curve, I took the blank and simulated the four boards by scoring them in and darkening the score lines with very thin pencil lead. It worked out well!
-
DocBlake got a reaction from gjdale in Granado 1742 by DocBlake - FINISHED - 1:32 Scale - Bomb Vessel Cross-Section
Thanks guys. for all the "likes"!
I needed to figure out a way to make the hatch cover boards. I planned on using boxwood for the color contrast. The boards are about 5/64" thick with a very slight curve to them that matches the curved coamings. But bending the curve and getting the precise length right cutting strip stock was going to fail! Too hard to get consistency in the four boards. Here's what I did:
I cut up a boxwood blank the fit into the recess where the boards sit. It was thick enough so it stood just proud of the highest point on the curved coamings. Then I traced the coaming top lines onto the 4 edges of the blank. I used double sided carpet tape to tape the blank to a block of wood, keeping it perpendicular to the table of my disc sander, and parallel to the disk's face. Using my variable speed disk sander on LOW speed, I sanded the curve into the blank!
Once I was satisfied with the curve, I took the blank and simulated the four boards by scoring them in and darkening the score lines with very thin pencil lead. It worked out well!
-
DocBlake got a reaction from BANYAN in Granado 1742 by DocBlake - FINISHED - 1:32 Scale - Bomb Vessel Cross-Section
Thanks guys. for all the "likes"!
I needed to figure out a way to make the hatch cover boards. I planned on using boxwood for the color contrast. The boards are about 5/64" thick with a very slight curve to them that matches the curved coamings. But bending the curve and getting the precise length right cutting strip stock was going to fail! Too hard to get consistency in the four boards. Here's what I did:
I cut up a boxwood blank the fit into the recess where the boards sit. It was thick enough so it stood just proud of the highest point on the curved coamings. Then I traced the coaming top lines onto the 4 edges of the blank. I used double sided carpet tape to tape the blank to a block of wood, keeping it perpendicular to the table of my disc sander, and parallel to the disk's face. Using my variable speed disk sander on LOW speed, I sanded the curve into the blank!
Once I was satisfied with the curve, I took the blank and simulated the four boards by scoring them in and darkening the score lines with very thin pencil lead. It worked out well!
-
DocBlake got a reaction from rafine in Granado 1742 by DocBlake - FINISHED - 1:32 Scale - Bomb Vessel Cross-Section
Thanks guys. for all the "likes"!
I needed to figure out a way to make the hatch cover boards. I planned on using boxwood for the color contrast. The boards are about 5/64" thick with a very slight curve to them that matches the curved coamings. But bending the curve and getting the precise length right cutting strip stock was going to fail! Too hard to get consistency in the four boards. Here's what I did:
I cut up a boxwood blank the fit into the recess where the boards sit. It was thick enough so it stood just proud of the highest point on the curved coamings. Then I traced the coaming top lines onto the 4 edges of the blank. I used double sided carpet tape to tape the blank to a block of wood, keeping it perpendicular to the table of my disc sander, and parallel to the disk's face. Using my variable speed disk sander on LOW speed, I sanded the curve into the blank!
Once I was satisfied with the curve, I took the blank and simulated the four boards by scoring them in and darkening the score lines with very thin pencil lead. It worked out well!
-
DocBlake got a reaction from popash42 in Granado 1742 by DocBlake - FINISHED - 1:32 Scale - Bomb Vessel Cross-Section
I started work on the hatch. The coamings are 7/32" thick bloodwood and jointed by half laps at the four corners. The coamings are also beveled inward by 10 degrees on all four sides. How to do the beveling easily and accurately? I decided on a jig!
Basically the jig is a slice of wood, angled at 10 degrees from the horizontal. When the face of a coaming is sanded such that it is square up against the Byrnes sanders disk, you know the angle is a perfect 10 degrees. The hatch frame is attached to the jig with two sided carpet tape.
Sanding the four sides took about 20 minutes.
-
DocBlake got a reaction from KentM in Granado 1742 by DocBlake - FINISHED - 1:32 Scale - Bomb Vessel Cross-Section
I started work on the hatch. The coamings are 7/32" thick bloodwood and jointed by half laps at the four corners. The coamings are also beveled inward by 10 degrees on all four sides. How to do the beveling easily and accurately? I decided on a jig!
Basically the jig is a slice of wood, angled at 10 degrees from the horizontal. When the face of a coaming is sanded such that it is square up against the Byrnes sanders disk, you know the angle is a perfect 10 degrees. The hatch frame is attached to the jig with two sided carpet tape.
Sanding the four sides took about 20 minutes.
Our Emblem ®
