Gregory
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Everything posted by Gregory
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Another thing to keep in mind, when you spin your own rope, differences in machinery, set-up and conditions ( humidity, temperature ) an cause subtle differences, not necessarily negligible at scale.
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@Jaager Interesting insight into the tree nailing effect , but do you have any suggestions regarding JFMJr's question regarding how to drive the small nails that come with most kits?
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Hold them with some small needle nose plyers and tap them with a small hammer to get them started. The I would use a small nail setting tool and the hammer to seat them.
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Just moving the pin into the cut-out should do it. See druxey's image above. -
The idea is for the rudder to fit almost flush against the stern post..
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That looks pretty good to me! One small quibble. Those pintle pins should not stand proud of the leading edge of the rudder . .
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I suppose you can, but you are moving out of my area of expertise when you start drawing your own plans. Perhaps someone else can help. It sounds like you may need some good drafting software to do this.
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I am not sure what you are calling ' bridges '...
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The colors from the AL kit should work as well as any..
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Here is the rudder from G Barlow's Cheerful. I think the cutouts for the " pintles " can be interpolated fairly easy. Some lines from the NMM.
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There are some good references in the Cheerful logs. I can't get to them right now, but will dig up something later if you don't beat me to it...
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FWIW Chuck did include scuppers on Cheerful; Aft, as shown in the painting above ( if those are scuppers ) wouldn't make much sense. If I remember correctly, from some of the Cheerful logs, some builders chose not to model them. I have seen several contemporary models that did not show them either. I think it was one of those things that didn't show up on contemporary line drawings because they were taken for granted.
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I would start off by Googling English Galleon Plans and looking at the images. You will have to sort out what kind of costs, if any, you might incur. You will see many options including images where you might be able to infer the run of the decks. If you are not that concerned about historical or architectural accuracy, then what you can infer from these drawings, along with the lines you have, you should be able to come up with the basis for a nice model.
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The decks are not shown in those drawings, so you would need another source to provide that information. When you say " false keel " are you referring to the center longitudinal piece of a plank on bulkhead model? To establish the slots, you will first have to establish the deck/s ...
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While this may be true, I think it makes for a more interesting model.
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Did you see Kurt's answer above? I really don't have any idea.. I was just trying to find the kerf you were looking for.
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I think Chuck was asking about your other parameters- diameter, arbor, etc. However, I suspect you have that covered and are just trying to zero in on the kerf. Malco has some 1/32 blades called Plain Metal Slitting saws.
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What OS are you using? Windows ?
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I get my blades from Malco Saw . The .03 is .762 mm They have a 1/2" arbor, so you have to make an adapter or get the one from Micromark. I have not had any problem with the .03 blade over heating and warping, with stock 6mm or less. The .02 can be a problem except with very thin stuff. It's good for very shallow grooves.
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Well, that single screw, holding the fence to the sliding block might be a problem. 😉
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Thanks for the explanation.. I really wasn't understanding from an earlier post what a zero clearance insert had to do with tear out.
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The Dado effect for the Proxxon saw is a separate issue from the discussion of the sled. as well as a separate issue of Byrnes vs Proxxon. You would manage your insert just as you would for different width blades.. The warping washers are just another option to get a wider cut vs stacking blades or using wider blades. I can't even say it is something I would use, but I don't know why it wouldn't serve it's purpose if it is what you want to accomplish with one of these doll house saws..
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Right. "Wobble" makes it sound like the blade is loose, which is not the case. The washers are thicker in one area, causing the cut of the blade to wobble laterally.. I don't know why it wouldn't be square. Maybe you could explain.
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Have you seen what MicroMark calls a Dado Cutting System for their tilt arbor saw? Just some "Specially-designed" washers that make the blade wobble. Seems it would be pretty easy to make your own. Could be useful for gratings or other projects.
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I have to admit my lack of expertise and ask for an example of when the sliding table is the best way to use the saw?
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