Gregory
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Everything posted by Gregory
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I beg your pardon, I'm afraid you have the advantage of me...
Gregory replied to JohnSGG's topic in New member Introductions
Looking at some of the fittings, particularly the deadeyes and belaying pins, it was not totally out of the box.. -
Cured CA is essentially plastic. It will not deteriorate any faster than other plastics. That said, if you roughen up the brass and use tight holes, PVA should work as well.
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Cast Metal and Brass
Gregory replied to Flyfisher's topic in Metal Work, Soldering and Metal Fittings
A little more context might help. Is this a kit? Which one? Which parts? I've never seen a typical kit that suggested any soldering at all. -
That is what I was looking for.
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Quick question for the Constitution guys who have researched this so well. Looking at the plans you posted, are the deck planks that end in a point actual practice, now and in the past? I had always been led to believe the points were to be avoided and were eliminated with nibbling(?).
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Not much of a gap. If it were me, I would sand away until everything fits.
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Your build should be the Poster Child for that kit!
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Proxxon cross cut sled + other accessories
Gregory replied to OT1138's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
The one from MicroMark for the tilt arbor saw should work. However, something you could make yourself would work as well if not better. Sliding Table Microlux -
I also said: " I don't know if that's close to your final look..."
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British Pathe film: Model Boat Building, 1956.
Gregory replied to uss frolick's topic in Nautical/Naval History
Ever watched NCIS? Main character Gibbs, builds boats ( not models ) in his basement.
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Here is the rudder attachment from Chuck's Winchelsea. It is typical. The pintles are countersunk into the rudder and the gudgeons are no bigger than the slot where the pins are. I'm surprised the Bluejacket plans don't show this more clearly. The kit supplied parts may have to be modified somewhat, or you might consider making your own. I made the gudgeons and pintles on my Resolution from cardstock. Your rudder would also require some modification to fit correctly. Keep in mind that it doesn't have to go together like the real thing to look good. For my Resolution, I put the Pintle pin in the gudgeon, rather than hang the rudder as in actual practice. Then I used small pins to fix the rudder to the stern post. You might find a different way that suits you better.
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I don't know if that's close to your final look, but the rudder would be almost flush with the stern post. Your arrangement looks rather incongruous. Sorry to sound critical, but I wouldn't want that to detract from an otherwise excellent build. The kit supplied gudgeons and pintles may leave something to be desired, or require a lot of work to get a good fit.
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Those look really good.. If I were going to shoot for any improvement, it would be a more uniform size.
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I think your best bet for understanding the Garboard will be to look at the Half Hull Planking Project.. Talk about the garboard starts here: I agree the garboard has caused a lot of grief, but I think the main mistake people make is how far forward it should run. The black strip shows the placement of the garboard. Toni says " The garboard is the only strake with a straight edge. " The image is misleading due to perspective. As it runs forward you have to account for the space it covers on the curved bulkheads. As I mentioned, where the garboard meets the stem is critical, but if you just lay a straight line , accounting for your plank width, from the stern to the stem, it will be perfect. The mistake most often made is letting the garboard fall to far aft , which result in planks that curve upward too much as the planking moves up the bow. Practice making your planks with paper or card before committing your wood stock.
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We have this information from a recent discussion. https://modelshipworld.com/topic/36354-gun-positions-and-their-associated-tackle/?do=findComment&comment=1042700
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I hope my comments were not taken as being critical of your work. To the contrary, your planking and now, the mitered joints are an inspiration, and I think it great that you are adding a detail that sets your model apart from the crowd.
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Your work looks very good, but who is George Stockwell? I seem to recall seeing the mitered joints on a contemporary model or two, but for the most part they were the lap joints we see on a lot of models here and elsewhere. I borrowed these from Chucks Cheerful. Of course, the builders of the Virginia Sloops may have followed a different practice, of which I have no expertise.
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Considering earlier discussion it should easily fall within 1501-1750.
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.. Forbid it should be 8.6..😁 For modeling purposes, I think once the shape of the block is good, while keeping the size of the rope in mind, I think the size of the block is more a matter of " what looks good, is good"..
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I'm sure it is implied somewhere. You should have the information you need to proceed with your planking.. The image I posted couldn't be more clear about the space to be covered and how it should look. Look forward to seeing your progress.
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Hopefully you will take the advice to look at the references given . Here is another example from Chuck's Cheerful. The green line shows where the first two planks next to the keel are. The first plank next to the keel is the garboard, and you may want to look at Thukydides reference for establishing the garboard plank. I also discounted the next plank because it doesn't lend itself to measuring a width where it meets the stem. You will have to try to achieve the look you see on those two planks and taper them accordingly. The red line is the distance you will measure to determine the width of the planks at the bow. If you measure the red line to be 55mm, then would divide 55 by 18 to get 3.05 mm for the width of your planks at the red line. Since your number may be something that is really hard to measure for cutting, such as 3.05 mm, then you may want to use just 3mm ( just an example as your actual number will probably be different ), and have one or two planks a little bigger. You could just fit them in at the end. Unless you follow the planking practices you have been given, you will not have an easy time achieving something like the picture above. Look at the many build logs for Cheerful and Alert. The planking details may not be well documented in all of them, but it will be in a few like the one Thukydides pointed you to.
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Use a piece of string, then measure the string with a ruler. Divide the length of the string by the number of planks used to cover a midship bulkhead. Here is a post I made about tapering planks from mid ship to bow. Your measurements should be different than my example.
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Do you have any illustration of what you mean by this? It's basically a matter of dividing the space available by the number of planks. Have you looked at the planking videos by Chuck? They show how to get a better fit of the planks by 'edge bending'. Sometimes a " drop plank " at the bow will help you avoid planks that become too narrow at the stem. A drop plank reduces two planks to one. The problem with doing this with a kit is that it requires wider stock than the basic planking stock, so it may not be practical with the kit you are building. You should be able to work around this by just making the ends of the planking more narrow than the drop plank would provide. I assume we are talking bout the Sherbourne you are building, so I think you could get some ideas by looking at Chuck's Cheerful. The lines are very similar. It is a single plank model, but the run of the planking will be much the same as your 2nd planking on the Sherbourne. Chuck has the instructions for Cheerful at his Syren Ship Model Co. Here is a link to Chapter 4 which covers the planking below the wales.
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Go to Windows search and type " snipping tool ".. You can copy any part of the screen you are looking at. It goes to the clip-board, so you can paste it directly into the discussion. You can edit in "Paint", or do whatever you like. Even though it's telling you to press all those keys, all you really need to do is press Ctr+N..
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You don’t have the “Snipping Tool”?
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