Jack H

Hi！ My 3D printer arrived yesterday. This is the schematic diagram of what I call the "TOP Frame Jig". The yellow part is 7mm plywood, and 7mm is chosen so that it only occupies the position of one frame. The green part is 3D printed, which I call "Frame jig". There are scale lines and numbers on its upper surface. It's really quite rushed right now. Liu will give me feedback, including whether the expansion components for transoms assembly are needed. I once suggested that he eliminate some tenons and mortises, which would greatly reduce the difficulty. However, he wants to take on the highest level of difficulty, so let's wait and see. In my design, the red transoms require precise positioning for assembly. For the gray ones, I have added allowances to facilitate corrections. As for the blue ones, I have disassembled them to make it easier to adjust their positions during assembly, especially the positions of the tenons. This is an assembly method designed by my friend DaHai and me. With an aluminum alloy platform and a wooden pressure plate, after being tightened with screws, the horizontal resistance can reach more than 1-2 kg (estimated value, static pressure). If you try to push it by hand, it can hardly move. The three components of the transoms shown in blue in the diagram will be glued together only during assembly. This way, the splicing gaps will be left on the inner side, ensuring the best possible finish on the outer side. However, Liu may have his own ideas, and I can't stifle his creativity, so I'll wait for his results. I also used another type of metal jig, which is widely used in the CNC machining industry. Its current price is already very low. Previously, it cost more than $15, and that was even the price for a cheap second-hand product. The horizontal resistance of this jig may exceed 5 kg. It can almost correct any deformation—if I may put it a bit exaggeratingly—and can precisely adjust the displacement.

Liu started assembling the cant frames at the bow because I haven't sent him the stern jig yet. I agree with Greg that the stern structure requires skill and is quite challenging. Several years ago, I discussed the assembly of the stern components with BiTao, who is an excellent modeler with great skills. I watched him assemble the stern,same method as Edward's—using a significant amount of allowance. I conducted tests on the wing transom, stern post, and fashion piece. After finishing the processing of these components, I left most of them exposed on my office desk without any wrapping for over a year. Then I put them in a box for about two years. During this period, they went through several seasons. In my city, spring is a rainy season with high humidity that lasts for 2-3 months, followed by a hot summer and a dry winter. Finally, after testing, it was found that the deformation of the wing transom was approximately 0.7mm.So when I processed the filling transom, I only allowed a 0.7mm allowance, but Liu insisted that I shouldn't leave any allowance. Another batch of components, which is what you see being assembled, was mostly processed 4 years ago and then sent to Xi'an, a city in northwest China where Liu is located. After several years, that city is relatively dry. Having been transported from the southern part of China, which is humid, to the dry northwest region, these components have gone through about 4 full years. There is indeed some deformation, and in the coming days, Liu will show us the effect of reassembling these components that have been stored for 4 years. I will introduce some tools I designed myself to correct the deformation of the wood, which should be used at some point in the future if Liu finds that the deformation of the components exceeds the allowable range. The main reason for using CNC to process ship model components is to simplify the assembly difficulty and let the machine handle the tedious polishing work.

Liu completed the assembly of the Hawse pieces today. This is Wang's 1/4" scale pear wood version.

hi Matthias,I provide the wale and the planking above it, while temporary fixing battens are used below the wale, similar to the Bellona in the NMM.

Thank you everyone,thank you Greg,the hawse piece, stemson, and the breast hook you mentioned are not fully fixed. You can see clearly that the hawse piece is not in the correct position and there is a large gap. Liu only used "a drop of glue" to temporarily fix it. He temporarily used the breast hook as a jig to position the hawse pieces. Actually, this is my fault because I failed to provide him with the frame jig in time. In my plan, the bow jig has a reserved expansion interface for the installation of the outer contour jig. However, I don't like the outer jig because it will interfere with the assembly of components. But I once designed an inner jig (frame jig) in another project. Nevertheless, I told Liu that Albert completed the assembly using only curved wooden strips without a jig, so I asked him to use the breast hook as a temporary jig, as you might have guessed. Your experience will be of great guiding significance to this project. After all, 3D design still falls into the category of theory. Personally, I have no objection to 3D printing; it's just that in this project, they require me to use all solid wood components. I haven't completed the design of any other jigs so far. I need to make sure that my design avoids being the same as those by other designers, but the inner frame jig is quite simple.To facilitate their assembly, I need to provide them with the 3D-printed frame jig as soon as possible.

Hi all, My partner Liu has decided to continue with the 1:36 prototype, and several model builders are preparing pear-wood version in 1/4" scale as well as another two sets of pear wood version in 1/3" (1:36) scale.So I'm continuing to develop this project, even though it has been on hold for 4 years – that's way too long,say so sorry.

I'm sorry I forgot to reply to you. I saw your question at that time, but I was busy with other things. Later, I forgot. I saw this post today one more time accidentally ... I use rhino6, silo2.5 ,zbrush2018, and then program machining with rhinocam 2018. The commercial licenses of these software are relatively cheap. I mean, compared with expensive software such as Solidworks + solidcam, 3DMAX, UG, PowerMILL .... But personal use of these software（rhino/cam,zb...） is still a big expense. I spent about $4900 at that time.The price of SolidWorks + solidcam in China is $11,500, from Chinese agent in 2018. Jack

Thank you JJ ,Allan,and all your "likes". For some reasons in my business, it may be another few months before this project continues. Also, due to the pandemic, one of my partners, who made prototype of 1:36 in scale, he wanted to pause for a while.so I needed to restart working on the 1:48 prototype. Thank you all for your attention. Jack

If it's just a bow section, 1:36 may have better details, but as the full kit of the first POF project, I think 1:48 can be considered because many modelers will put her and winchelea side by side, the same scale is better. Moreover, POF projects are very complex, smaller projects are undoubtedly a wise choice (they can be developed faster). In addition, if I am lucky enough to cooperate with Chuck one more time, I hope do better than last time.

I use rhino6 and ZBrush 2018 (upgraded to 2021), so my figure head can be assembled to the model accurately. By the way, my own Cumberland, I was waiting for the modeler to complete the first chapter, so I took time to do something else.

My friend‘s POB La Artesien, process of planking on hull, so I modified the figurehead one more time, a lot of modifications, from head to foot.

Yes，that's basically the first chapter. And then I went on to process the 1:48 parts, and I started to make this model in a real sense, I want to show you my idea, that is, how to simplify a complex POF model into several large parts by machine and hands, so that modelers with common skills and no professional tools can make this complex model. This is the first step. Let's take a look at the basic parts of pear wood and the pre assembled parts of jujube wood on the right.I will process a set of Asian boxwood samples at the same time.Maybe you are tired of looking at those model parts all the time. Indeed, I am too busy. I have to go to work during the day, and then design and process the ship model in my spare time. Maybe I only have a few hours of spare time every day. However, my classmate's processing factory can process these parts in batch ,I insist on testing these parts myself in the hope of finding more mistakes and modifying them. On the left is Chinese pear wood, and on the right is jujube wood. Asian boxwood and jujube wood look similar, but undoubtedly boxwood is the best, more delicate than pear wood, and has good color. In the future, I will release about 3-10 full boxwood kits, if anyone likes them.

Testing samples of packaging, 1:36,the next assembly work will be handed over to Liu, and I will make a 1:48 prototype.

No,it's not the same company,thank you,