AJohnson
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Everything posted by AJohnson
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Hi Dave, I have a few spare Caldercraft deadeye straps you could try out if you would like me to post some to you to try before committing to a wholesale change. One issue that might arise with the CC straps is the size of the two prongs that stick into the channel, they are not big and if your channel has slots already for the deadeyes they might be too loose even if trapped by the channel edging strip. Just a thought
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Thanks, I used a SAKURA Pigma Professional Brush Pen, found it did not "bleed"into the wood grain too much and the brush type head seems to give a little more centrol than a traditional 'hard' marker pen head. I experimented and found I liked the effect if I marked both edges of the plank rather than just one. The only obstacle I came across was that many of the Tanganyika strips had a rough edge, so needed sanding before marking with the pen to give a smooth edge. -
Having a change this evening and assembled one of the replacement items I've bought to hopefully improve upon some kit parts, tried out the Binnacle from Vanguard model (on the left) which I think an improvement. Also having a trial go at a new yoke and handle for the swivel guns made out of eyelet pins, instead of the square PE kit parts which I don't like, I did use them on my Sherborne and Orestes and wish I hadn't - a bit chunky looking.
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HMS bounty colour?
AJohnson replied to Rich12ace's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
Yes I'm using those on my Bounty also, the paints have slight sheen once more than one coat applied, I don't mind that, but I have seen on MSW others don't like that. I may varnish with matt once hull finished. -
Here is the deck as it looks now. I wish I had done it before the bulwarks and capping rails, I won't make the mistake of following the instructions in order again!
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Apologies for resurrecting another old thread, but I am seeking advice on what type of skylights Bligh had installed on the Bounty for the "garden" conversion of the great cabin. Others have spotted in his log that Bounty had air scuttles and two skylights added but the McKay AOTS book only shows gratings in the positions available for skylights. The lines of Bethia/Bounty show what I think most assume are gratings, but could be low skylights (would have to be low for the one under the tiller and steering tackle).
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Yes she was copper bottomed.
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HMS bounty colour?
AJohnson replied to Rich12ace's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
Tell me about it! I have already been told by the Boss the Blue of the Bounty "Doesn't go" with our light green walls where the shelf is that I intend to place my Bounty when finished! 😂 -
Hi, Thank you, the strip is the kit supplied 4.0mm wide Tanganyika. So a scale 10 inches wide, which compared to the drawing in McKay's Anatomy of the Ship book, are too wide, but on 1/50th scale may be more accurate, so you might be okay with yours, ask for more learned opinions on your build log. To be honest the Tanganyika was of mixed quality, thickness and width! Many of them were rough, so I had to sand them before I marked the edges with black marker pen, but overall I am pleased with the deck, it looks like it has severe woodworm now as I am in the middle of drilling hundreds of holes to simulate the treenails; these will be filled with wood filler.
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I've seen the plaque, Bligh's former residence is a stones throw from the Imperial War museum, well worth a visit with the imposing 15inch guns of HMS Ramillies and Resolution at the entrance.
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I just can't believe that is the Airfix kit!!! 😱 Brilliant work! 👏
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Progressed on the deck planking today. Think if I was doing this again I would do the deck planking before the bulwarks and capping rails and not after as laid out in the instructions, think the access would be easier. That will teach me for slavishly following instructions! 😆 I've given it rub down and first seal, next I will be faintly marking out the deck beams so I can do the Treenails. I'll be using the "drill & fill" technique with wood filler, as that seemed to work when I did it on the Orestes build. I know from experience I will get bored of all that drilling & filling, so can take breaks from it and build and paint my new cannons/binnacle/capstan/wheel & crew members that arrived today. 😁
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A few goodies arrived in the post today to hopefully improve a few areas of the kit. Have bought replacement 4 pounder guns, binnacle and capstan from Vanguard and a replacement brass wheel and white metal chimney from Caldercraft. These replace items that are a bit below par in the kit, I have built up the originals before I made these purchases and will do a comparison at a later date. Also got half a dozen Amati 25mm crew figures, I know these little chaps verge on being a bit whimsical, but I quite like them and did populate my previous build, HMS Orestes with a few, I have no pretence to be taken too seriously and want to have fun with my models. 😁
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Update on recent progress, completed the two anchors. Used black card as per. the instruction to form the bands, but also added a little detail by using wire to simulate the stock bolts. Puddening around the ring was done in 1mm black thread. The Stocks were coloured with dilute black enamel paint to looking like preservative, I was undecided on whether to leave the stocks natural wood or paint black as I have seen on other MSW builds. Advice from the "Ships fittings" section of the forum suggested a compromise would be a dark colour @mgdawson Thanks Mark! Also made a start on the decking....
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A good guess though I would have thought, preservatives would have been oil/tar based so a good call if not black then dark at least. I am still doing the puddening around the ring and the cable knot, so time to ponder a while longer.
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Hi, hopefully posting this in the correct area. I’m building the Bounty and currently making up the anchors, my question is should these be painted black or left natural wood? On my two previous builds I have not painted, but I have seen many builds on MSW that have painted them. If it could have been either, anyone know what the Bounty had, reading about the voyage I know Bounty lost one anchor as it’s stock was rotten and Bligh recommended voyages to warmer climes should have metal socks, but not aware of any reference to painting the stocks. Thanks for any guidance folks can give. 🙂
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I too got the Endeavour because of my interest in Cook, living in North Yorkshire, I get to visit Whitby, Staithes, Marske & Great Ayton regularly ( well before COVID I did!) looking at both kits in my stash I think I will be doing the Snake next, the Endeavour looks like the Bounty on Steroids! The lime first planking is forgiving, but the bluff bow of the Bounty and Endeavour present the same challenges to someone of my skill level.
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Hi Daniel, I'm just in awe of your attention to detail with your Bounty and the dedication to the craft to rip the planking off and start from scratch, I got upset about a few copper plates! I too have the John McKay book and have spotted some differences, but i don't have the skill or inclination to fix many of them, I'm content this time to build almost out of the box and the fact my Bounty is a bit "fat/wide" I will just have to live with (like my expanding waistline during Covid-19 lockdown! 😆) Going to follow your build with interest! 👍
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Hi Dave, the copper plates do come with the kit, you can buy them separately if you haven't got any in your kit. The CC copper plates do have prominent "bumps" on them to simulate the copper nail heads. From reading other posts on MSW, the reception of them is mixed, I think there are other ones available that are more visually pleasing, but seems they are more expensive of course! As for the CC instructions, they are very brief, but the plans are good and almost full size. I have a few CC kits, built their "Sherbourne" & "Mars" (really Orestes), I am on with this Bounty and have CC's "Snake" and "Endeavour" saved in stock, I can say the written instructions are almost identical in them all! (okay slight exaggeration, but there does seem to be a fair bit of cut and paste going on.) The materials seem okay to me, but I have no experience of other manufacturers.
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Hi Dave, I have started a build log for my Bounty, so "shadowing" you, good luck with the masts and yards. As for CC instructions they are a bit "sparse" to say the least, the plans are good though and nearly full size, so plenty of room for notes etc. so think we have poor instructions in common, thank goodness for MSW and others build logs! 😁
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Bit of progress on the stern, added the Lanterns, the instructions say to only use a single 1mm length of wire to support, but from looking at other builds and Anatomy of the Ship book, then the lantern supports were a bit more detailed, so I added some 0.7mm wire for the side supports. Also added a chain connecting the rudder to the hull. Also spent a good while re-drilling the dead eyes, in preparation for using them, as I can remember what a pain it is to try and do that when mounted on a model and you can't getting some rigging to go through them! Will do the blocks later when nearing the time for rigging. I'm waiting for some marker pens to arrive to try simulating caulking before I start the deck planking, so also made a start on the anchors. All for tonight, thanks for looking
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Photoetch brass black problems
AJohnson replied to Seems ok to me's topic in Metal Work, Soldering and Metal Fittings
Thanks all for the tips above, I am having just this problem and think now, having read the above I am leaving the PE in too long and certainly haven't diluted the blackener. So will try as suggested for the next batch of hooks and chain plates. Thanks again! 😁 -
Thanks, I will follow your build as well, I think we both probably fell into the same trap and took on something a bit too ambitious back then. 😄
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Glad to have a fellow Bounty builder restarting their build like me, though at 25 years you have me beat, I only "paused" for 10 with mine!
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Think you have done a great job on the rudder! 👏 I am at that stage on my Bounty build and like you found it hard to get the straps to lay flat on the "bumpy" copper plates; think in hindsight marking out and flatting the "nail heads" on the copper plates would have helped. Going to follow you with interest, my next project is yet another Snake! 😃
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