Dan Vadas

It's 1/25 scale. I wouldn't doubt that there would be a lot of PE etc out there. This particular kit doesn't seem to have Laser-cut Treads, at least not from GPM as far as I could tell.
 
I DID however, just now find THIS laser-cut set for the frame and wheels. Too late now, I'm already most of the way through laminating the paper templates for same . Besides, I'd have had to wait about a month to get it, plus pay nearly 30 Euros for a 5.50 Euro kit once the postage was added .
 
Danny

Hi Grant, yeah it's a bit different to what I'm used to . This kit also comes with a detailed cockpit and engine compartment, so that will be fun.
 
As I didn't get any laser-cut framing etc for this model I've had to do it the hard way, glue the parts to 1mm card and cut out. I've found it's a lot easier and more accurate to actually glue it to some 0.5mm first, cut out the piece, and then glue it to another 0.5mm card and cut out again (the 2nd time is a lot easier). This ensures a much squarer cut without running off on an angle. I'm using fairly hard card, the "right" stuff is easier to cut but I've run out of large sections of it at the moment :


 
Several parts require an angle to be cut on at least one edge. I use a scalpel to take off the bulk of the material, and finish off with a 150 grit sanding stick :

 
Once the main hull was glued up it came time to fit the outer skin, which comes in one piece. It actually fit quite well :



 
The lit supplies extra parts if you want a more "3D" effect than merely the printed covers etc. The longer pieces in the pic below are slightly rounded using a brass rod and a piece of high-density foam :

 
The start of the suspension :

 
These little (3mm) boxes were a bit more difficult to make than usual because they are double thickness. Despite that they turned out quite well :


 
To avoid damaging the parts that protrude past the floor level while working on the rest of the hull I used double-sided tape to stick on some 4mm thick card packers :

 
Danny

Thanks for sharing Danny,
 
Nils

Believe it or not - I've finished this boat already . That only took 4 1/2 days.
 
There are extra hatch covers which can be glued to the deck to make them look more realistic than simple printing :


 
The bridge had some rather flimsy legs, but it all turned out OK with a bit of care :


 
I've used some PE railings left over from one of my previous builds. This comes out a lot better than trying to make them from thread as the kit suggets :

 
The ship's wheel took a lot of careful cutting. It's only 5mm in diameter between the tips of the spokes :

 
I used my hole punch kit to make the various diameters of round pieces of the Capstan :

 
The middle deck Ventilators. There are two smaller ones on the fore deck :


 
The funnel has 3 steam pipes attached, which I cut from paper :

 
The Galley and two Heads were pretty straight-forward, although I cut all the tabs off and edge-glued the various joins :



 
The Bollards are the smallest ones I've made so far that use a rolled paper tube :

 
If I thought the bridge legs were flimsy, they paled in comparison to the Awning Supports. I wicked some CA glue on the edges for strength :

 
The Anchors and Chain. I used 40 link-per-inch :

 
The ship's boat was quite easy to make. It consisted of a mere 4 parts :


 
The tiny Navigation Lights were a bit of a pain to make :

 
And some overview pics of the completed model. It is only 200mm long :

 
The Companionway in this pic is also left-over PE. There is another behind it on the middle deck :



 
And the last piece fitted (as usual) - the German Imperial Flag :

 
I still need to make a base for the model. It will be a simple piece of Card, painted blue.
 
My next model arrived yesterday - just in time . It's a WW2 German tank, a Stug 40. A link to the build log for it will appear in my signature when I get started on it.
 
Danny

Yeah, I know . But as I said at the beginning of the log - I don't know anything about building stagecoaches, so I went with the kit directions .
 
BTW - not a bad replica of my model that they have in the bank's museum .
 
Danny

Yeah, I know . But as I said at the beginning of the log - I don't know anything about building stagecoaches, so I went with the kit directions .
 
BTW - not a bad replica of my model that they have in the bank's museum .
 
Danny

Yeah, I know . But as I said at the beginning of the log - I don't know anything about building stagecoaches, so I went with the kit directions .
 
BTW - not a bad replica of my model that they have in the bank's museum .
 
Danny

Yeah, I know . But as I said at the beginning of the log - I don't know anything about building stagecoaches, so I went with the kit directions .
 
BTW - not a bad replica of my model that they have in the bank's museum .
 
Danny

Yeah, I know . But as I said at the beginning of the log - I don't know anything about building stagecoaches, so I went with the kit directions .
 
BTW - not a bad replica of my model that they have in the bank's museum .
 
Danny

Yeah, I know . But as I said at the beginning of the log - I don't know anything about building stagecoaches, so I went with the kit directions .
 
BTW - not a bad replica of my model that they have in the bank's museum .
 
Danny

Yeah, I know . But as I said at the beginning of the log - I don't know anything about building stagecoaches, so I went with the kit directions .
 
BTW - not a bad replica of my model that they have in the bank's museum .
 
Danny

Hello - and thank you for the likes in the previous posting and thank you Busby for your nice comments and I wish you well with your build.
 
Had a go to slightly improve the dip in the Main Stay.
 
 
The lantern (Caldercraft) and rudder chain.
 

 
Bobstays and Bowsprit Shrouds done and so that is Sheet 11 all done. My heart sank once I studied Sheet 12 as there was so much more rigging and it was already getting hard not to lean on existing lines without a fair chance of some damage.
 
 
Start of Sheet 12 with a Tack Toggle. Not sure if you can see it clearly in picture and not sure what the Tack Toggle does. It looks like a quick release system perhaps.

Lines to the rail have all gone through a deck ring before being tied off to the rail. Have added more eyelets than were originally asked for.
 

 
Thanks for looking.
 
Regards
 
Doug

Thank you for your interest.
druxey: I don't think delaminating is the problem with hout-board. It breaks if you are not careful enough and I doubt if dampening will change that. But it is a suggestion I will certainly investigate.
 
Part III
As seen on previous pictures I copied the deck and the inside of the bulwark in an early stage, before they were glued. I use 180 gr paper, which is about twice as thick as what you use in a printer. The paint I use for the deck is a yellow ochre Humbrol 94. After it dried completely, a fine-liner helped out to draw the planks. I began with the middle section in which the hatches are situated and where we find the holes for the masts. As the deck has some camber and also some sheer it is not possible to paste the painted deck on in one piece, so to prevent wrinkling it was cut in three. I first glued the middle section between the binding strakes (the longitudinal parts on both sides of the hatches), after which the parts on both sides were added. They only needed very small corrections. 
 
The planking of the hull needs to be primed, to prevent the paint wearing off during handling. Tamya has a good white primer, but there are more good brands. Then the hull was painted. Below the waterline I use Humbrol 24, a dirty white or grey color, matching the color of the white stuff that was used in the old days. It consisted of a mixture of animal fat, sulfur and resin to prevent growth of shells and algae, which slows down the ship. Above the waterline I use Humbrol 64, another yellow ochre. The paint has to be applied in a very thin layer, because it should not fill the grooves in the plastic strips, imitating the wood structure. The reason for this will become apparent in a few minutes. Two layers of thin paint may be necessary. 
At the top of the bulwark a narrow strip of red paint it applied. A modest red is used: Humbrol 153. At bow and stern this can connect to a red-white-blue decoration, referring to the Dutch flag. 
After painting, the model should be stored for at least half a week, but of course that is impossible. There are too many things that have to be done. Care has to be taken however not to touch the paint with any other paint until it is completely dry.
 

 

 

That gives us the chance to make some details like hatches, pumps, windlass, knights and other small parts. In paper these are all very easy to make.
I use a lot of thin card, 0.5 mm, from boxes used to sell all sorts of food. Most of the time I paint stuff in advance to use, after which only the tiny white sides have to be touched up.
 

Hatches are made of 1 mm board for the top with 0.5 mm sides.
 

The pumps are made of a tube of paper with some parts to imitate the handle and the pivot. The rod is just a piece of wire.
 

The windlass is also a piece of paper rolled to a tube with another piece of paper, which is scored into 8 parallel strips, glued to it. Holes for the handlebars are drawn with ink. The cheeks on the sides are simply made of a 1mm top and the sides of 180 grams paper.
 

The windows in the stern are 0.5 mm yellow frames with a red piece of paper glued behind. Between the wales on the location of the window a piece of card is glued as a filler to give the window a good landing.
 

The hinges for the rudder are made of a strip of black paper cut in halves up to almost the middle. The two top strips are bend backwards to be glued to the rudder, the two lower ones are pasted to the stern. The connection between stern and rudder consists of two pins or pieces of brass wire, glued with CA glue in pre-drilled holes in both the rudder and the stern.
 
 
The helm is made of 1 mm grey-board. Applying a few drops of CA glue can enforce this part.
 
 
The knight with which the main yard is hoisted is made of separate layers of 0.5 mm thick card with openings for the jeer. 
 
The anchor is made of 1 mm thick card with hands from 180 gr. paper and a stock of two layers of 1 mm card.
 
There were not many flags on simple ships like this one, but they can be made of blotting paper, using diluted paint to keep the colors a bit flat.
 In making these small parts paper proves to be a quick, easy and versatile material. None of these parts took more than 15 minutes to make.
 
 
Before we go on painting, this might be the moment to explain something about the hooker as a ship type.
The vessel sailed in European waters from the late Middle Ages up to half the 19thcentury and was usually equipped with a fish-box. This means that a section of the planking was perforated with thousands of holes. This allowed the water to run in and out to keep the fish fresh in a separated compartment of the hull. Hookers were used to catch haddock and cod with a trod line. This was a very long line (up to 4 miles) with short lines attached to them with a hook and bait. To be able to lay the line on the sea bottom in a straight line the ship had to be a steady sailer, for which the long keel was a great help. It also had to able to sail close hauled, because it had to sail the same way back, to take back in the long line. Therefore it was sharply shaped, at least compared to other Dutch vessels, which were mostly more or less box shaped.
Because of its fine lines and its sailing quality the hooker was also used as a freighter outside the fishing season and even the East India Company (VOC) used hookers for trading in Indian waters. As a privateer and a convoy-ship the vessel was lightly armed, mostly with swivel guns. In the 18thcentury hookers were made larger and were rigged with three masts.
The hooker on Chapman’s drawing was a fish carrier, transporting the fish to the harbor caught by other ships, which could stay at sea longer to continue fishing.
 

Gerrit Groenewegen: a fish-hooker. From: 'Verzameling van vier en tachtig stuks Hollandsche Schepen. Rotterdam 1789.

Gerrit Groenewegen: a fish-hooker sailing out the trod-line. From: 'Verzameling van vier en tachtig stuks Hollandsche Schepen. Rotterdam 1789. Unknown origin.

Fishing with a trod-line. The distance between the floating barrels was 840-1000 fathom (1536 - 1828 meters).
 
And now the great moment has finally arrived. The paint has dried for at least three days and now we take a firm brush and cover the whole Humbrol 64 area with a dark brown paint called Van Dijks Brown oil paint (your art supplier can surely help you out). Brush the paint into every corner of the planked outside of the hull and then wipe it off with a soft cloth. The dark brown will give a wonderful accent to the ochre and also stays behind in the fine grooves in the plastic strips creating a perfect wood imitation. Judge for yourself.
 

 

 

 
Next time we will do the rigging.

Ofcourse we believe.
we already saw your tank!
 
Jan

Looks like another interesting build to follow Danny.😊

It's 1/25 scale. I wouldn't doubt that there would be a lot of PE etc out there. This particular kit doesn't seem to have Laser-cut Treads, at least not from GPM as far as I could tell.
 
I DID however, just now find THIS laser-cut set for the frame and wheels. Too late now, I'm already most of the way through laminating the paper templates for same . Besides, I'd have had to wait about a month to get it, plus pay nearly 30 Euros for a 5.50 Euro kit once the postage was added .
 
Danny

It's 1/25 scale. I wouldn't doubt that there would be a lot of PE etc out there. This particular kit doesn't seem to have Laser-cut Treads, at least not from GPM as far as I could tell.
 
I DID however, just now find THIS laser-cut set for the frame and wheels. Too late now, I'm already most of the way through laminating the paper templates for same . Besides, I'd have had to wait about a month to get it, plus pay nearly 30 Euros for a 5.50 Euro kit once the postage was added .
 
Danny

Yeah - 5 pages out of the total 16 just for the tracks .
 
Danny

Nice work Ab . I'd like to see how you develop complex shapes like hull skins for card.
 
Danny

Yeah - 5 pages out of the total 16 just for the tracks .
 
Danny

Hi all,
My next Card model - a WW2 German Tank, the Stug 40. This kit is from GPM in Poland, but I bought mine through Fenten's in Brisbane for $35.00 including postage . Those of you who saw my GPM Bismarck may remember that I wasn't very happy with the quality of the kit, but this one seems to be OK so far (but I haven't really started yet ).
 
Here's a pic of the cover art from the kit :

 
I've made my usual preparations - cut out all the pages from the kit book, scanned them, placed them into a clear-leaf folder and made up the Part Finder Spreadsheet. I've also translated the Polish instructions well enough to work out what they mean. Now to start the real work.
 
Danny

The model is now finished. I made a simple stand from cedar and gave everything a couple of coats of clear gloss :









 
My next "real" model will be a WW2 tank made again from Card. While waiting for it I downloaded a fairly simple ship - a German Monitor named Mosel. A link to it can be found in my Signature.
 
Danny

Yeah - 5 pages out of the total 16 just for the tracks .
 
Danny

Fitting the motor to the frame :


 
The airbox took a bit of tricky fitting, aligning the two pipes :


 
The exhaust system fitted rather well, although I had to cut one piece off and re-align it slightly. I started by gluing the two short pipes into the barrels :


 
The tank and seat had to be modified quite a bit before they'd fit properly. They both turned out OK :


 
Danny

Thanks Popeye.
 
The two crankcase side covers, footpegs and levers :



 
That's all the parts finished and glued into modules. All that's left now is to glue all the modules together .
 
Danny