Dan Vadas

Yeah - 5 pages out of the total 16 just for the tracks .
 
Danny

Hi all,
My next Card model - a WW2 German Tank, the Stug 40. This kit is from GPM in Poland, but I bought mine through Fenten's in Brisbane for $35.00 including postage . Those of you who saw my GPM Bismarck may remember that I wasn't very happy with the quality of the kit, but this one seems to be OK so far (but I haven't really started yet ).
 
Here's a pic of the cover art from the kit :

 
I've made my usual preparations - cut out all the pages from the kit book, scanned them, placed them into a clear-leaf folder and made up the Part Finder Spreadsheet. I've also translated the Polish instructions well enough to work out what they mean. Now to start the real work.
 
Danny

Have fun with the tracks! 

Ooh, I've always loved the look of the stugs! 
I've never done a vehicle card kit before so I will be following this with interest.

Hi all,
My next Card model - a WW2 German Tank, the Stug 40. This kit is from GPM in Poland, but I bought mine through Fenten's in Brisbane for $35.00 including postage . Those of you who saw my GPM Bismarck may remember that I wasn't very happy with the quality of the kit, but this one seems to be OK so far (but I haven't really started yet ).
 
Here's a pic of the cover art from the kit :

 
I've made my usual preparations - cut out all the pages from the kit book, scanned them, placed them into a clear-leaf folder and made up the Part Finder Spreadsheet. I've also translated the Polish instructions well enough to work out what they mean. Now to start the real work.
 
Danny

Hi all,
My next Card model - a WW2 German Tank, the Stug 40. This kit is from GPM in Poland, but I bought mine through Fenten's in Brisbane for $35.00 including postage . Those of you who saw my GPM Bismarck may remember that I wasn't very happy with the quality of the kit, but this one seems to be OK so far (but I haven't really started yet ).
 
Here's a pic of the cover art from the kit :

 
I've made my usual preparations - cut out all the pages from the kit book, scanned them, placed them into a clear-leaf folder and made up the Part Finder Spreadsheet. I've also translated the Polish instructions well enough to work out what they mean. Now to start the real work.
 
Danny

Hi all,
My next Card model - a WW2 German Tank, the Stug 40. This kit is from GPM in Poland, but I bought mine through Fenten's in Brisbane for $35.00 including postage . Those of you who saw my GPM Bismarck may remember that I wasn't very happy with the quality of the kit, but this one seems to be OK so far (but I haven't really started yet ).
 
Here's a pic of the cover art from the kit :

 
I've made my usual preparations - cut out all the pages from the kit book, scanned them, placed them into a clear-leaf folder and made up the Part Finder Spreadsheet. I've also translated the Polish instructions well enough to work out what they mean. Now to start the real work.
 
Danny

Hi all,
My next Card model - a WW2 German Tank, the Stug 40. This kit is from GPM in Poland, but I bought mine through Fenten's in Brisbane for $35.00 including postage . Those of you who saw my GPM Bismarck may remember that I wasn't very happy with the quality of the kit, but this one seems to be OK so far (but I haven't really started yet ).
 
Here's a pic of the cover art from the kit :

 
I've made my usual preparations - cut out all the pages from the kit book, scanned them, placed them into a clear-leaf folder and made up the Part Finder Spreadsheet. I've also translated the Polish instructions well enough to work out what they mean. Now to start the real work.
 
Danny

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 311 – Main Topgallant Mast
 
It has been an interesting week in the shop.  Temperatures in our area dropped below freezing this week, with the usual drop in humidity, causing the long stays on the model to sag somewhat from their taut condition when installed during the warmer, more humid months.  The sag on these is not too displeasing and actually mimics the sag in the photos of the ship.  I measured this by magnifying the images and drawing straight CAD lines to compare.  This could be corrected by hauling up on the backstay lanyards but for now I am not doing this.
 
The topic in this part is the main topgallant mast.  This and its crosstrees were made earlier.  Before erecting the mast, the iron band for the royal futtock shrouds needed to be installed.  This is placed at the smallest mast diameter, just under the octagonal hounds that spread outward to support the crosstrees.  For this reason a soldered band cannot be used.  The first pictures show the way I made this band.  
 

The copper strip was first crimped around the mast in a way that formed two tabs on the aft side.  One of these was cut shorter than the other so the longer end could be bent and pressed over the first to form the flange-like tab shown in the next picture.
 

In the picture this has been drilled for the four futtock shroud eyebolts.  It was then blackened and the eyebolts glued in with CA.  The crosstrees were then fitted and the mast erected.  The next picture shows the foot of the installed mast and the turning-in of the two tg shrouds on the starboard side.
 

The mast fid with its shackle may be seen in the picture.  The forward, served shroud has its deadeye turned in with three seizings.  The second shroud, to the left, is ready for its throat seizing.  The deadeye is held in an alligator clamp for this.  The next picture shows the tg mast with lanyards threaded on two of the shrouds and other lines hanging loose.
 

The loose ends of the shrouds and seizings will be trimmed off when the glue coating dries.  The forward stay has been run, but the upper collar seizing remains untied at this stage.  The lower end of the stay is shown in the next picture.
 

The stay is served at this end and passes through a bullseye strapped to the fore lower masthead.  It is then seized to an eyebolt through the center crosstree.  This picture also shows the fully loaded fairlead planks with just a few spare, unused holes.  The next picture shows a closer view of the shrouds as the tg backstay is being prepared.
 

The next picture shows the deadeye and lanyard connection of the backstay to the channel.
 

The stay and shrouds are threaded but will not be hauled tight until their port side counterparts and the forward stay are rigged.  The next picture shows the state of the model before rigging the port side lines.
 

The sag of the topmast and lower mast stays may be apparent in this picture.  While it is not very pronounced and perhaps realistic, it is counter to the desire for a tight, rigid structure – I guess.
 
Interspersed with the above work, the dreary and eye-straining making and tying of ratlines continues.  I estimate there are around 650 of these on the model.
 
 
Ed

Thank you all very much for your encouraging remarks.
Amateur: Yes, I posted this tutorial on a small Belgium forum, which closed its doors a few weeks ago. Thought it was a pity to let it disappear, so I made the translation and tried again. Hope you like it anyway.
 
Part II
Planking a paper model can be a choice of several possible methods. You can plank with ‘real’ planks, following the run of the real planking of the vessel, you can plank in sections and you can use a combination of the two. Most of the time several layers of planks are used, but I will show the simplest method, with only one drawback, about which more later on.
First of all a few words about the material I use. For the skin a sort of card is used, which in Holland is called ‘hout-bord’ (wood-board) in English probably called -white mechanical pulp board-. It is a yellowish slightly spongy sort of material, much like the coasters used in pubs to place your beer glass on. If you ever bought a Polish kit and purchased the laser-cut parts too, you will know exactly what I mean. It can be bought in different sizes, but I mainly use the 1 mm thick one. The reason to choose this material will become clear in a minute, but I should warn you. This material is inclined to break. Not into two pieces, but it cracks and the crack leaves an ugly angle in the material you surely don’t want. So you will have to carefully pre-bend it with a round stick of sufficient diameter, rolling it in your hand until the final shape is more or less reached and the strip can be glued without stress. 
Starting in the mid-ship area it is a simple process to cut a strip of the right width and glue it to the frames, using only one half of the doubled frames to glue to. Thus the next strip will have a decent landing too. Working to both ends of the hull things will get a little bit more complicated: due to the difference in shapes of the frames the strips more and more begin to show a twist. So they have to be cut wider to begin with. The procedure is simple. 
 

Place the bottom of the strip against the keel and the last planked section, allowing for no gaps. Carefully fold the bended strip over the frames, in a way that they touch them entirely on both sides. With a pencil or pen the overlapping side against the already planked area can be marked. Also the height of the bulwarks can be marked. Take sufficient length and width for the strip, because it can easily be trimmed, but hardly enlarged once it is glued on. Cut the excess and place the strip back on its location. 

Now there is only side that is left to be shaped. The more often you do this, the better it gets. It is wise for your first efforts to begin cutting a bit wider than necessary. You can always trim later. Make sure that the strip touches the frames everywhere. Any gap will mercilessly show up later.

So in the end we reach the extremities. Now the spongy character of the card will prove to be handy. Cut a piece of card and fit it over the area to be planked. Make sure that it is a few millimeters wider than the gap it will have to cover. Place it in the palm of your hand and use something round to press. I use an iron ball, but I guess a firm spoon will do the job as well. The material will take a roundish shape and with some kneading and pushing and pulling the part will fit and close the remaining opening.
 



 
The result so far is rather crude, but have faith, all will end up ship-shape.
As stated earlier the frames above deck-level will have to be removed. Because we slightly perforated them in an earlier stage, this is an easy process: just push them forwards and backwards. They will break and can be removed, flush on deck-level. Prepare a strip wide enough to cover the inside of the bulwarks and glue it on the inside, lining up all the strips of the planking above deck-level. Save the shape of this strip on a separate paper for later finishing.
 

 
Here we are with our paper hull completed and more or less in shape.
Not really. The drawback of this type of planking is that angles in the shape of the hull are visible and we don’t want them. It is called ‘the hungry-horse-effect’, looking like the ribs of a neglected horse. So here comes the dirty part of this method. Putty has to be applied all over the hull and sanding is the only way to produce an acceptable shape. Don’t do this in-doors where your wife rules over the tidiness of the house. Your marriage will definitely grind to a halt and that might not be your intention. But applying putty can be done outside the house, as can sanding. It looks like a lot of work, but I doubt if it will take more than an hour all together. 
 

 

 

 

The trick is to do this in shifts. Apply a first layer of quickly drying putty. Use a flexible piece of card or plastic to cover the flat areas between the seams and as little as possible on the seams themselves. Try to follow the curves of the hull. Wait at least overnight until it is thoroughly dry and sand. Use a flat piece of wood and a curved one to wrap the sandpaper in. A few minutes of sanding will be enough to get your first result. You will not like it as it is. So put on a second layer of putty for finishing, only where necessary. After drying, sand again and mark the spots that are still not satisfying in your opinion. A fourth shift, only applied to places where it is needed will probably finish the job.
Of course this is dirty and on top of that it will take some experience. So there are other, more subtle solutions to the problem of planking. You can for instance work with longitudinal strips and apply several layers of planks on top of each other, combined with some sanding that will finally reduce any unwanted angles to almost nothing. You can also try to shape every section of planking you apply with a variant of the iron ball method: make shallow cuts on the inside of every section where a curve is needed and carefully shape them so that the frames become almost invisible. After that you will still have to plank the ship longitudinally, taking care to narrow the planks towards the bow and use stealers aft. You will end up with a magnificent hull. But that will take experience too. The whole process is about experience, but the method I described is easier if you use the trick I will show you here.
 
But before I unveil the trick, some more preparations have to be made. First you will have to make the rudder. No problem at all. Glue some layers of card together and take the shape from Chapman’s plan. With a few pieces of wire it can be attached to the stern. No hinges? No, why would you take the trouble of making a working rudder if it will never work anyway? We are making a model that looks like ship, but it still is a model and it will only look like a ship. 
Once you reached this point, it is wise to make a stand. I use strips of a beautiful kind of card, used for framing artwork, called ‘ivory-card’. The pictures show what it looks like and your art-supplier can help you out.
 
With the help of a block of wood of the right height you can run a pencil around the hull to mark the waterline and from there you can draw the run of the wales. This should be done with the utmost of care, taking measurements from the plan. Slightly off-line and the beauty of the hull disappears and leaves you with an inelegant and awful result, so take care. The wales can be made both from card and from plastic styrene. The same goes for the top rail, defining the top of the bulwarks. Now the lines of the hull will become visible and you can judge if a week’s work does pay.
 
 
Now the final planking is done. There is a firm in Germany producing self-adhesive foils, called C-D-Fix. They sell all sorts of decorative films like flowers, marble, and a variety of sorts of wood: oak, fir, beech and so on. Some builders use these foils, but I don’t like them, looking too ‘plastic’ to me.I use ‘whitewood’, a white foil with a wood imprint. Here is the address: https://www.amazon.com/stores/page/B9ED20F0-36EF-461D-9741-8F093C72F76F?ingress=0&visitId=9aa24d54-da79-4f8c-ab51-d6af39183894
Simply cut strips of the right width and cover the hull with a natural run of the planking. The material sticks remarkably well to the hull, especially if you heat it a little with a hair-dryer. Where the planks should be bended some more heat does the job. The process of planking is so fast that I don’t even have pictures of it. Here is the result after little more than half an hours work.
 

 

 

 
Next time we will give the hull it’s color and we will work on the details.

Another nice build.  You needed something quick because those paper armor builds seem to take a long time. 
 
Greg

You've got far to much time on your hands Danny!!!
 
Lovely build though ... especially for the time it took you ... but 4.5 days and not yet finished ... the base is mandatory!!

Believe it or not - I've finished this boat already . That only took 4 1/2 days.
 
There are extra hatch covers which can be glued to the deck to make them look more realistic than simple printing :


 
The bridge had some rather flimsy legs, but it all turned out OK with a bit of care :


 
I've used some PE railings left over from one of my previous builds. This comes out a lot better than trying to make them from thread as the kit suggets :

 
The ship's wheel took a lot of careful cutting. It's only 5mm in diameter between the tips of the spokes :

 
I used my hole punch kit to make the various diameters of round pieces of the Capstan :

 
The middle deck Ventilators. There are two smaller ones on the fore deck :


 
The funnel has 3 steam pipes attached, which I cut from paper :

 
The Galley and two Heads were pretty straight-forward, although I cut all the tabs off and edge-glued the various joins :



 
The Bollards are the smallest ones I've made so far that use a rolled paper tube :

 
If I thought the bridge legs were flimsy, they paled in comparison to the Awning Supports. I wicked some CA glue on the edges for strength :

 
The Anchors and Chain. I used 40 link-per-inch :

 
The ship's boat was quite easy to make. It consisted of a mere 4 parts :


 
The tiny Navigation Lights were a bit of a pain to make :

 
And some overview pics of the completed model. It is only 200mm long :

 
The Companionway in this pic is also left-over PE. There is another behind it on the middle deck :



 
And the last piece fitted (as usual) - the German Imperial Flag :

 
I still need to make a base for the model. It will be a simple piece of Card, painted blue.
 
My next model arrived yesterday - just in time . It's a WW2 German tank, a Stug 40. A link to the build log for it will appear in my signature when I get started on it.
 
Danny

The model is now finished. I made a simple stand from cedar and gave everything a couple of coats of clear gloss :









 
My next "real" model will be a WW2 tank made again from Card. While waiting for it I downloaded a fairly simple ship - a German Monitor named Mosel. A link to it can be found in my Signature.
 
Danny

Believe it or not - I've finished this boat already . That only took 4 1/2 days.
 
There are extra hatch covers which can be glued to the deck to make them look more realistic than simple printing :


 
The bridge had some rather flimsy legs, but it all turned out OK with a bit of care :


 
I've used some PE railings left over from one of my previous builds. This comes out a lot better than trying to make them from thread as the kit suggets :

 
The ship's wheel took a lot of careful cutting. It's only 5mm in diameter between the tips of the spokes :

 
I used my hole punch kit to make the various diameters of round pieces of the Capstan :

 
The middle deck Ventilators. There are two smaller ones on the fore deck :


 
The funnel has 3 steam pipes attached, which I cut from paper :

 
The Galley and two Heads were pretty straight-forward, although I cut all the tabs off and edge-glued the various joins :



 
The Bollards are the smallest ones I've made so far that use a rolled paper tube :

 
If I thought the bridge legs were flimsy, they paled in comparison to the Awning Supports. I wicked some CA glue on the edges for strength :

 
The Anchors and Chain. I used 40 link-per-inch :

 
The ship's boat was quite easy to make. It consisted of a mere 4 parts :


 
The tiny Navigation Lights were a bit of a pain to make :

 
And some overview pics of the completed model. It is only 200mm long :

 
The Companionway in this pic is also left-over PE. There is another behind it on the middle deck :



 
And the last piece fitted (as usual) - the German Imperial Flag :

 
I still need to make a base for the model. It will be a simple piece of Card, painted blue.
 
My next model arrived yesterday - just in time . It's a WW2 German tank, a Stug 40. A link to the build log for it will appear in my signature when I get started on it.
 
Danny

Believe it or not - I've finished this boat already . That only took 4 1/2 days.
 
There are extra hatch covers which can be glued to the deck to make them look more realistic than simple printing :


 
The bridge had some rather flimsy legs, but it all turned out OK with a bit of care :


 
I've used some PE railings left over from one of my previous builds. This comes out a lot better than trying to make them from thread as the kit suggets :

 
The ship's wheel took a lot of careful cutting. It's only 5mm in diameter between the tips of the spokes :

 
I used my hole punch kit to make the various diameters of round pieces of the Capstan :

 
The middle deck Ventilators. There are two smaller ones on the fore deck :


 
The funnel has 3 steam pipes attached, which I cut from paper :

 
The Galley and two Heads were pretty straight-forward, although I cut all the tabs off and edge-glued the various joins :



 
The Bollards are the smallest ones I've made so far that use a rolled paper tube :

 
If I thought the bridge legs were flimsy, they paled in comparison to the Awning Supports. I wicked some CA glue on the edges for strength :

 
The Anchors and Chain. I used 40 link-per-inch :

 
The ship's boat was quite easy to make. It consisted of a mere 4 parts :


 
The tiny Navigation Lights were a bit of a pain to make :

 
And some overview pics of the completed model. It is only 200mm long :

 
The Companionway in this pic is also left-over PE. There is another behind it on the middle deck :



 
And the last piece fitted (as usual) - the German Imperial Flag :

 
I still need to make a base for the model. It will be a simple piece of Card, painted blue.
 
My next model arrived yesterday - just in time . It's a WW2 German tank, a Stug 40. A link to the build log for it will appear in my signature when I get started on it.
 
Danny

Believe it or not - I've finished this boat already . That only took 4 1/2 days.
 
There are extra hatch covers which can be glued to the deck to make them look more realistic than simple printing :


 
The bridge had some rather flimsy legs, but it all turned out OK with a bit of care :


 
I've used some PE railings left over from one of my previous builds. This comes out a lot better than trying to make them from thread as the kit suggets :

 
The ship's wheel took a lot of careful cutting. It's only 5mm in diameter between the tips of the spokes :

 
I used my hole punch kit to make the various diameters of round pieces of the Capstan :

 
The middle deck Ventilators. There are two smaller ones on the fore deck :


 
The funnel has 3 steam pipes attached, which I cut from paper :

 
The Galley and two Heads were pretty straight-forward, although I cut all the tabs off and edge-glued the various joins :



 
The Bollards are the smallest ones I've made so far that use a rolled paper tube :

 
If I thought the bridge legs were flimsy, they paled in comparison to the Awning Supports. I wicked some CA glue on the edges for strength :

 
The Anchors and Chain. I used 40 link-per-inch :

 
The ship's boat was quite easy to make. It consisted of a mere 4 parts :


 
The tiny Navigation Lights were a bit of a pain to make :

 
And some overview pics of the completed model. It is only 200mm long :

 
The Companionway in this pic is also left-over PE. There is another behind it on the middle deck :



 
And the last piece fitted (as usual) - the German Imperial Flag :

 
I still need to make a base for the model. It will be a simple piece of Card, painted blue.
 
My next model arrived yesterday - just in time . It's a WW2 German tank, a Stug 40. A link to the build log for it will appear in my signature when I get started on it.
 
Danny

Believe it or not - I've finished this boat already . That only took 4 1/2 days.
 
There are extra hatch covers which can be glued to the deck to make them look more realistic than simple printing :


 
The bridge had some rather flimsy legs, but it all turned out OK with a bit of care :


 
I've used some PE railings left over from one of my previous builds. This comes out a lot better than trying to make them from thread as the kit suggets :

 
The ship's wheel took a lot of careful cutting. It's only 5mm in diameter between the tips of the spokes :

 
I used my hole punch kit to make the various diameters of round pieces of the Capstan :

 
The middle deck Ventilators. There are two smaller ones on the fore deck :


 
The funnel has 3 steam pipes attached, which I cut from paper :

 
The Galley and two Heads were pretty straight-forward, although I cut all the tabs off and edge-glued the various joins :



 
The Bollards are the smallest ones I've made so far that use a rolled paper tube :

 
If I thought the bridge legs were flimsy, they paled in comparison to the Awning Supports. I wicked some CA glue on the edges for strength :

 
The Anchors and Chain. I used 40 link-per-inch :

 
The ship's boat was quite easy to make. It consisted of a mere 4 parts :


 
The tiny Navigation Lights were a bit of a pain to make :

 
And some overview pics of the completed model. It is only 200mm long :

 
The Companionway in this pic is also left-over PE. There is another behind it on the middle deck :



 
And the last piece fitted (as usual) - the German Imperial Flag :

 
I still need to make a base for the model. It will be a simple piece of Card, painted blue.
 
My next model arrived yesterday - just in time . It's a WW2 German tank, a Stug 40. A link to the build log for it will appear in my signature when I get started on it.
 
Danny

Believe it or not - I've finished this boat already . That only took 4 1/2 days.
 
There are extra hatch covers which can be glued to the deck to make them look more realistic than simple printing :


 
The bridge had some rather flimsy legs, but it all turned out OK with a bit of care :


 
I've used some PE railings left over from one of my previous builds. This comes out a lot better than trying to make them from thread as the kit suggets :

 
The ship's wheel took a lot of careful cutting. It's only 5mm in diameter between the tips of the spokes :

 
I used my hole punch kit to make the various diameters of round pieces of the Capstan :

 
The middle deck Ventilators. There are two smaller ones on the fore deck :


 
The funnel has 3 steam pipes attached, which I cut from paper :

 
The Galley and two Heads were pretty straight-forward, although I cut all the tabs off and edge-glued the various joins :



 
The Bollards are the smallest ones I've made so far that use a rolled paper tube :

 
If I thought the bridge legs were flimsy, they paled in comparison to the Awning Supports. I wicked some CA glue on the edges for strength :

 
The Anchors and Chain. I used 40 link-per-inch :

 
The ship's boat was quite easy to make. It consisted of a mere 4 parts :


 
The tiny Navigation Lights were a bit of a pain to make :

 
And some overview pics of the completed model. It is only 200mm long :

 
The Companionway in this pic is also left-over PE. There is another behind it on the middle deck :



 
And the last piece fitted (as usual) - the German Imperial Flag :

 
I still need to make a base for the model. It will be a simple piece of Card, painted blue.
 
My next model arrived yesterday - just in time . It's a WW2 German tank, a Stug 40. A link to the build log for it will appear in my signature when I get started on it.
 
Danny

Nice work Ab . I'd like to see how you develop complex shapes like hull skins for card.
 
Danny

Believe it or not - I've finished this boat already . That only took 4 1/2 days.
 
There are extra hatch covers which can be glued to the deck to make them look more realistic than simple printing :


 
The bridge had some rather flimsy legs, but it all turned out OK with a bit of care :


 
I've used some PE railings left over from one of my previous builds. This comes out a lot better than trying to make them from thread as the kit suggets :

 
The ship's wheel took a lot of careful cutting. It's only 5mm in diameter between the tips of the spokes :

 
I used my hole punch kit to make the various diameters of round pieces of the Capstan :

 
The middle deck Ventilators. There are two smaller ones on the fore deck :


 
The funnel has 3 steam pipes attached, which I cut from paper :

 
The Galley and two Heads were pretty straight-forward, although I cut all the tabs off and edge-glued the various joins :



 
The Bollards are the smallest ones I've made so far that use a rolled paper tube :

 
If I thought the bridge legs were flimsy, they paled in comparison to the Awning Supports. I wicked some CA glue on the edges for strength :

 
The Anchors and Chain. I used 40 link-per-inch :

 
The ship's boat was quite easy to make. It consisted of a mere 4 parts :


 
The tiny Navigation Lights were a bit of a pain to make :

 
And some overview pics of the completed model. It is only 200mm long :

 
The Companionway in this pic is also left-over PE. There is another behind it on the middle deck :



 
And the last piece fitted (as usual) - the German Imperial Flag :

 
I still need to make a base for the model. It will be a simple piece of Card, painted blue.
 
My next model arrived yesterday - just in time . It's a WW2 German tank, a Stug 40. A link to the build log for it will appear in my signature when I get started on it.
 
Danny

Believe it or not - I've finished this boat already . That only took 4 1/2 days.
 
There are extra hatch covers which can be glued to the deck to make them look more realistic than simple printing :


 
The bridge had some rather flimsy legs, but it all turned out OK with a bit of care :


 
I've used some PE railings left over from one of my previous builds. This comes out a lot better than trying to make them from thread as the kit suggets :

 
The ship's wheel took a lot of careful cutting. It's only 5mm in diameter between the tips of the spokes :

 
I used my hole punch kit to make the various diameters of round pieces of the Capstan :

 
The middle deck Ventilators. There are two smaller ones on the fore deck :


 
The funnel has 3 steam pipes attached, which I cut from paper :

 
The Galley and two Heads were pretty straight-forward, although I cut all the tabs off and edge-glued the various joins :



 
The Bollards are the smallest ones I've made so far that use a rolled paper tube :

 
If I thought the bridge legs were flimsy, they paled in comparison to the Awning Supports. I wicked some CA glue on the edges for strength :

 
The Anchors and Chain. I used 40 link-per-inch :

 
The ship's boat was quite easy to make. It consisted of a mere 4 parts :


 
The tiny Navigation Lights were a bit of a pain to make :

 
And some overview pics of the completed model. It is only 200mm long :

 
The Companionway in this pic is also left-over PE. There is another behind it on the middle deck :



 
And the last piece fitted (as usual) - the German Imperial Flag :

 
I still need to make a base for the model. It will be a simple piece of Card, painted blue.
 
My next model arrived yesterday - just in time . It's a WW2 German tank, a Stug 40. A link to the build log for it will appear in my signature when I get started on it.
 
Danny

Believe it or not - I've finished this boat already . That only took 4 1/2 days.
 
There are extra hatch covers which can be glued to the deck to make them look more realistic than simple printing :


 
The bridge had some rather flimsy legs, but it all turned out OK with a bit of care :


 
I've used some PE railings left over from one of my previous builds. This comes out a lot better than trying to make them from thread as the kit suggets :

 
The ship's wheel took a lot of careful cutting. It's only 5mm in diameter between the tips of the spokes :

 
I used my hole punch kit to make the various diameters of round pieces of the Capstan :

 
The middle deck Ventilators. There are two smaller ones on the fore deck :


 
The funnel has 3 steam pipes attached, which I cut from paper :

 
The Galley and two Heads were pretty straight-forward, although I cut all the tabs off and edge-glued the various joins :



 
The Bollards are the smallest ones I've made so far that use a rolled paper tube :

 
If I thought the bridge legs were flimsy, they paled in comparison to the Awning Supports. I wicked some CA glue on the edges for strength :

 
The Anchors and Chain. I used 40 link-per-inch :

 
The ship's boat was quite easy to make. It consisted of a mere 4 parts :


 
The tiny Navigation Lights were a bit of a pain to make :

 
And some overview pics of the completed model. It is only 200mm long :

 
The Companionway in this pic is also left-over PE. There is another behind it on the middle deck :



 
And the last piece fitted (as usual) - the German Imperial Flag :

 
I still need to make a base for the model. It will be a simple piece of Card, painted blue.
 
My next model arrived yesterday - just in time . It's a WW2 German tank, a Stug 40. A link to the build log for it will appear in my signature when I get started on it.
 
Danny

The idea with those is that you drill a hole about 2/3 the diameter of the thread first to make them easier to screw in.
 
Danny

Hi Danny,
 
your Yamaha bike looks wonderful, its amazing what you can do with card !!!
 
Nils