Dan Vadas

Hi Richmond,
 
You have gone way beyond "the contract" with the hull framing. It's not necessary to clear-coat it for one thing - save that for the visible pieces.
A common problem with some kits. If you do another card model after this one, consider using Laser-cut framing if available - it saves a LOT of work, and is reasonably priced.
 
A solution would be to fill the entire bow/stern section with card or balsa and sand to shape.
 
I would be avoiding foam (although I've never actually tried using it). If there are any unstable bulkheads then glue some extra card between them longitudinally. DO NOT glue the hull skins to these. You can bring the extra card bracing out to the (inner) level of the skin to help with avoiding accidental crushing when picking up the model, but leave it unglued from the skin.
 
When I first started card building I glued extra card to the faces of the bulkheads for a larger gluing surface. This proved to be a mistake, as you need to use as little PVA as possible to avoid the "starving cow" effect. The glue tends to pull the skins inward alongside where it meets the bulkhead. 1.5mm thick bulkheads are more than adequate for gluing two sections of hull skin together, even though they may not look like it at first. You will get better at gluing thin card edge-to-edge as you gain practise.
 
Danny

I'm using Matte Photo Paper - 170gsm weight, which measures at 0.25mm thick.
 
Danny

A couple more steps in the build - the Fuel Tank, Drive Chain and Engine :
 



 
The tank still needs a couple of pieces to be added before it's finished. I need to re-print a page for one part, which I'll do when I get more photo paper :

 
The drive chain comes in several sections, and takes some cutting. It's actually easier to make than it looks :



The curved sections of chain need to be squeezed in and glued between the links :

 
The Engine took me three days to build. The crankcase hasn't turned out too bad, considering the different sections in it :




 
I fitted the forward section of chain before gluing on the R/H crankcase cover, it would have been impossible later on :



 
Danny

A couple more steps in the build - the Fuel Tank, Drive Chain and Engine :
 



 
The tank still needs a couple of pieces to be added before it's finished. I need to re-print a page for one part, which I'll do when I get more photo paper :

 
The drive chain comes in several sections, and takes some cutting. It's actually easier to make than it looks :



The curved sections of chain need to be squeezed in and glued between the links :

 
The Engine took me three days to build. The crankcase hasn't turned out too bad, considering the different sections in it :




 
I fitted the forward section of chain before gluing on the R/H crankcase cover, it would have been impossible later on :



 
Danny

I'm using Matte Photo Paper - 170gsm weight, which measures at 0.25mm thick.
 
Danny

A couple more steps in the build - the Fuel Tank, Drive Chain and Engine :
 



 
The tank still needs a couple of pieces to be added before it's finished. I need to re-print a page for one part, which I'll do when I get more photo paper :

 
The drive chain comes in several sections, and takes some cutting. It's actually easier to make than it looks :



The curved sections of chain need to be squeezed in and glued between the links :

 
The Engine took me three days to build. The crankcase hasn't turned out too bad, considering the different sections in it :




 
I fitted the forward section of chain before gluing on the R/H crankcase cover, it would have been impossible later on :



 
Danny

I'm using Matte Photo Paper - 170gsm weight, which measures at 0.25mm thick.
 
Danny

That might still happen Jan .
 
Danny

Denis, the MT-01 or the MT-10 will be my next card model bike . Edge gluing isn't easy - you generally have only a 0.25mm edge to glue. Sometimes I might laminate an extra piece inside the join to make it a bit easier.
 
This kit has three stages. The first one is now finished. Here's a particularly tricky piece to cut and fold :

 
The seat is one of the most difficult pieces I've found so far, owing to the multiple curves. It hasn't turned out quite as well as I hoped, so it's going to get sanded and painted. I used sanding sealer to fill in all the joins :


 
The frame has a lot of tube rolling involved. Where it needs extra strength there's an internal support :


 
Stage one finished. I haven't permanently attached the steering/front guard assembly yet, as it's rather difficult to hold the frame with it in place while I'm fitting the engine, seat etc :





 
Danny

Thanks for the "heads-up" Jan. I've downloaded all the remaining five motorbikes, I'll decide later if I make another (or all of them ).
 
The front fender took a fair bit of work, some delicate cutting and edge-gluing :



 
A few hours work in the fender braces :


 
This sub-assembly is finished for now :

 
Danny

Hi all,
 
After finishing HMS Hood I've decided to do something a bit different this time. A change is as good as a holiday, as they say .
 
This is a free download of a Card model - a vintage Yamahe YA-1, the first bike that Yamaha made. This won't be a comprehensive Build Log, but I'll post pics as I complete certain significant sub-assemblies.
 
The kit is not particularly good (different to what I'm used to might be more appropriate), as they would have you use Tabs throughout the build. I'm cutting them off and edge-gluing instead. The instructions are VERY good for a card model, every step is highly detailed.
 
First thing (and I'm following the instructions with this one ) is the Headlight :



 
No clear lacquer has been applied yet. It will "hide" the unsightly excess glue marks when it's on. Next things are the front shock absorbers. The "rubber" boots took a while to make :



 
The Headstock comes next. Some of these parts are a bit tricky to work out how they fold at first, but I'm quickly getting used to it :




 
Updates will follow when I have something substantial to show.
 
Danny

I'm using Matte Photo Paper - 170gsm weight, which measures at 0.25mm thick.
 
Danny

Denis, the MT-01 or the MT-10 will be my next card model bike . Edge gluing isn't easy - you generally have only a 0.25mm edge to glue. Sometimes I might laminate an extra piece inside the join to make it a bit easier.
 
This kit has three stages. The first one is now finished. Here's a particularly tricky piece to cut and fold :

 
The seat is one of the most difficult pieces I've found so far, owing to the multiple curves. It hasn't turned out quite as well as I hoped, so it's going to get sanded and painted. I used sanding sealer to fill in all the joins :


 
The frame has a lot of tube rolling involved. Where it needs extra strength there's an internal support :


 
Stage one finished. I haven't permanently attached the steering/front guard assembly yet, as it's rather difficult to hold the frame with it in place while I'm fitting the engine, seat etc :





 
Danny

A couple more steps in the build - the Fuel Tank, Drive Chain and Engine :
 



 
The tank still needs a couple of pieces to be added before it's finished. I need to re-print a page for one part, which I'll do when I get more photo paper :

 
The drive chain comes in several sections, and takes some cutting. It's actually easier to make than it looks :



The curved sections of chain need to be squeezed in and glued between the links :

 
The Engine took me three days to build. The crankcase hasn't turned out too bad, considering the different sections in it :




 
I fitted the forward section of chain before gluing on the R/H crankcase cover, it would have been impossible later on :



 
Danny

A couple more steps in the build - the Fuel Tank, Drive Chain and Engine :
 



 
The tank still needs a couple of pieces to be added before it's finished. I need to re-print a page for one part, which I'll do when I get more photo paper :

 
The drive chain comes in several sections, and takes some cutting. It's actually easier to make than it looks :



The curved sections of chain need to be squeezed in and glued between the links :

 
The Engine took me three days to build. The crankcase hasn't turned out too bad, considering the different sections in it :




 
I fitted the forward section of chain before gluing on the R/H crankcase cover, it would have been impossible later on :



 
Danny

A couple more steps in the build - the Fuel Tank, Drive Chain and Engine :
 



 
The tank still needs a couple of pieces to be added before it's finished. I need to re-print a page for one part, which I'll do when I get more photo paper :

 
The drive chain comes in several sections, and takes some cutting. It's actually easier to make than it looks :



The curved sections of chain need to be squeezed in and glued between the links :

 
The Engine took me three days to build. The crankcase hasn't turned out too bad, considering the different sections in it :




 
I fitted the forward section of chain before gluing on the R/H crankcase cover, it would have been impossible later on :



 
Danny

A couple more steps in the build - the Fuel Tank, Drive Chain and Engine :
 



 
The tank still needs a couple of pieces to be added before it's finished. I need to re-print a page for one part, which I'll do when I get more photo paper :

 
The drive chain comes in several sections, and takes some cutting. It's actually easier to make than it looks :



The curved sections of chain need to be squeezed in and glued between the links :

 
The Engine took me three days to build. The crankcase hasn't turned out too bad, considering the different sections in it :




 
I fitted the forward section of chain before gluing on the R/H crankcase cover, it would have been impossible later on :



 
Danny

Denis, the MT-01 or the MT-10 will be my next card model bike . Edge gluing isn't easy - you generally have only a 0.25mm edge to glue. Sometimes I might laminate an extra piece inside the join to make it a bit easier.
 
This kit has three stages. The first one is now finished. Here's a particularly tricky piece to cut and fold :

 
The seat is one of the most difficult pieces I've found so far, owing to the multiple curves. It hasn't turned out quite as well as I hoped, so it's going to get sanded and painted. I used sanding sealer to fill in all the joins :


 
The frame has a lot of tube rolling involved. Where it needs extra strength there's an internal support :


 
Stage one finished. I haven't permanently attached the steering/front guard assembly yet, as it's rather difficult to hold the frame with it in place while I'm fitting the engine, seat etc :





 
Danny

Thanks for the "heads-up" Jan. I've downloaded all the remaining five motorbikes, I'll decide later if I make another (or all of them ).
 
The front fender took a fair bit of work, some delicate cutting and edge-gluing :



 
A few hours work in the fender braces :


 
This sub-assembly is finished for now :

 
Danny

Hi all,
 
After finishing HMS Hood I've decided to do something a bit different this time. A change is as good as a holiday, as they say .
 
This is a free download of a Card model - a vintage Yamahe YA-1, the first bike that Yamaha made. This won't be a comprehensive Build Log, but I'll post pics as I complete certain significant sub-assemblies.
 
The kit is not particularly good (different to what I'm used to might be more appropriate), as they would have you use Tabs throughout the build. I'm cutting them off and edge-gluing instead. The instructions are VERY good for a card model, every step is highly detailed.
 
First thing (and I'm following the instructions with this one ) is the Headlight :



 
No clear lacquer has been applied yet. It will "hide" the unsightly excess glue marks when it's on. Next things are the front shock absorbers. The "rubber" boots took a while to make :



 
The Headstock comes next. Some of these parts are a bit tricky to work out how they fold at first, but I'm quickly getting used to it :




 
Updates will follow when I have something substantial to show.
 
Danny

A couple more steps in the build - the Fuel Tank, Drive Chain and Engine :
 



 
The tank still needs a couple of pieces to be added before it's finished. I need to re-print a page for one part, which I'll do when I get more photo paper :

 
The drive chain comes in several sections, and takes some cutting. It's actually easier to make than it looks :



The curved sections of chain need to be squeezed in and glued between the links :

 
The Engine took me three days to build. The crankcase hasn't turned out too bad, considering the different sections in it :




 
I fitted the forward section of chain before gluing on the R/H crankcase cover, it would have been impossible later on :



 
Danny

A couple more steps in the build - the Fuel Tank, Drive Chain and Engine :
 



 
The tank still needs a couple of pieces to be added before it's finished. I need to re-print a page for one part, which I'll do when I get more photo paper :

 
The drive chain comes in several sections, and takes some cutting. It's actually easier to make than it looks :



The curved sections of chain need to be squeezed in and glued between the links :

 
The Engine took me three days to build. The crankcase hasn't turned out too bad, considering the different sections in it :




 
I fitted the forward section of chain before gluing on the R/H crankcase cover, it would have been impossible later on :



 
Danny

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 298 – Crojack Yard 3
 
In the first picture, the yard has been permanently hung on its truss, the sling chain fastened to the mast, and the two triple tackles for the lower topsail yard sheets rigged.  These are shown in the first picture. 

 
The tackles are fixed to the sheet chains with wire shackles, formed in place.  At the lower ends the blocks are hooked to deck eyebolts.  The tackle falls pass through sheaves in the sheet bitts and will be belayed on pins through those bitts.  The next picture shows the two yard braces with their pendants.
 

 
I am installing the mizzen braces as each yard is rigged because they run forward toward the center and should not interfere with later rigging access like those on the forward masts that run outboard.  Those are being deferred until later.  In the picture the two pendants are threaded on to a wire that will form the common shackle by which they are secured to an eyebolt on the main mast.  The next picture shows that shackle being formed.
 

 
To make the shackle, the wire is passed through the eyebolt from both sides.  A single overhand loop in the wire is then pulled tight through the eyebolt to simulate a shackle.  The wire will later be painted black.  The braces are spliced to eyes in the block straps as shown in the previous photo.  The lines then run through blocks shackled to eyes at the yard arm, back through the pendant blocks and are belayed on the main mast fife rail below.  The next picture shows the run of the two braces.
 

 
The next picture shows the brace connection at the yardarm.  The blocks are shackled to the forward band eyebolts on each side as shown below.
 

 
The next lines on this yard to be rigged were the clue garnets with their sheet blocks, tacks and lazy tacks attached, followed by the bunt and leech lines. These are virtually identical in configuration to their counterparts on other masts that were described in earlier posts.  They may be seen in the next photo.
 

 
The clue garnet blocks are positioned by temporary belaying of the tacks and lazy tacks.  This will be adjusted later when the sheets are rigged.   These, along with most other outer rigging is being deferred until later to maximize access.  The next picture shows the bunt and leech line blocks on the yards and hooked under the top. 
 

 
These six lines pass through fairleads on the lower shrouds, then belay on the main pin rails port and starboard.  The reef tackles were then rigged, one of which is shown in the next picture.
 

 
The standing end of the reef tackle is spliced to an eye on the yardarm block that is shackled to the bottom eye on the yard arm band.  It then passes through a block tied off to the jackstay as shown, then back through the outer block, inward to the double quarter block on this side, then down to the fife rail.  This picture also shows a close view of the shackled brace block and the shackled topping lift pendant on the top eye of the band.  The loosely hanging chain is the lower topsail sheet that will be rigged later.
 
Whew!  These descriptions are like a rewrite of the rigging list.
 
Next, the bowlines.
 
Ed

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 297 – Crojack Yard 2
 
The first picture shows the crojack yard set up in the fixture used for rigging.
 

 
The footropes, topsail yard sheet chains, topping lift pendants, and reef tackle yardarm blocks have been installed.  The blocks for this yard that remain to be installed have been strapped and are shown on the fixture base ready to be lashed on.  Altogether, there are 30 blocks associated with this yard – not the most or least for a yard but perhaps an average for the 18 yards.  The next picture shows a closer view of these blocks.
 

 
From left to right, these are: 2 assemblies of shackled sheet and clew garnet blocks, 4 triple blocks for the topsail sheet tackles, 2 iron-strapped, hooked, double quarter blocks, 4 + 2 spare bunt line blocks that will be lashed to the jackstays, 4 + 2 spare of these to be hooked under the crosstrees, and 2 reef tackle blocks that will be tied off to the jackstays.  Except for the two 11" sheet blocks, all are 8".
 
The next picture shows the method I use for the simplest strapping configuration – a strap with a single eye.
 
 
 
Strapping line, about 1/3 in size to the size of the block, is first tied in a double overhand knot around a pin to form the eye.  With the block held in a surgical clamp, the splice at the base of the block is formed with a single overhand knot.  The pin left in the eye is helpful in centering the eye on the top of the block when tying the splice.  The splice and the top knot are then brushed with diluted dark glue.  This simple method works well for small blocks – and is easy – especially helpful if you have 100's to do.
 
The next picture shows the sheet/clew garnet block assemblies before cutting off the excess strapping.  For these, the eyes were first tied around the shackles then spliced below as described above.
 

 
The shackles are large enough to handle the eyes of the sheet, tack and lazy tack – to be shown later.  In the next picture all the lashed blocks have been installed.
 

 
The last picture shows the attached blocks on one side. 
 

 
Below the yardarm is the reef tackle block lashed to the lower collar eye.  The topping lift pendant is shackled to the top eye and dangles behind the yard. The brace pendant, will later be shackled to the forward eye on the collar.  From the left, just inside the clamp, the first block fixed to the jackstay is the other reef tackle block – tied with hemp since this is cut free and fixed the sail when it is set.  The next two on the jackstay are the permanently lashed bunt line blocks.  Next, hanging below the yard, is the hooked iron strapped quarter block.  The loop of chain below the iron sheet block will have the triple tackle blocks shackled and the chain separated into two falls later.
 
 
Ed

Hello - the progress so far is some yards are up and in position.
Not exactly parallel as yet but hopefully will be once fully rigged.
 

 
Parral set up - seems slightly on the big size. For the top yards will use some left over from my Supply build which are smaller.
 

 
 
 

 
The Crossjack Tie on the mizzen mast was done slightly different from instructions. Took the centre block off and tried to copy what was illustrated in my book. the Thimbles were made from copper tubing.
 

 

 

 
 
An overall picture.
 

 
Thank you for looking and the ' Likes'
 
Doug