Dan Vadas

I thought about that Carl, but I'd have had bigger problems. To cut extra incisions you'd finish up with the points too short leaving a gap where they meet. If I'd have cut extra ones in ignoring the printed ones there would be a white line between them which would still need painting.
 
Pre-forming the petals with a rounded stick before gluing the skin on helped a lot .
 
  Danny

Thanks for the advice Pav, but I also agree with Peter. I'm leaving the deck as it is - bad enough now, worse later if I try to fix it .
 
All the extra card has been fitted and faired. I haven't added any extra bracing between large-spaced bulkheads, I'm going to give it a go the way it is and hope for the best .
 
Before fitting any hull skins I need to do some work on the Portholes. I've got the PE portholes from GPM (2.0mm and 1.6mm) which could just be glued to the hull over the printed ones. I've punched them out and glued some thin clear plastic behind to simulate glass. I'll fit the PE after all the hull has been skinned in case some come off when I'm gluing the skins on :


 
Time to glue the first skin. I'm starting with the upper bands rather than the bottom of the hull as directed by the kit. This way worked well on Amatsukaze and I'm doing the same as I think it's a LOT more important to get the detailed upper skins to fit correctly - they all need trimming (1st pic below), and there's nothing dictating exactly how much to take off the lower skins.



 
The sides have a step inward halfway down which needs a narrow horizontal piece. I fitted this first. When fitting the large skin I managed to muck it up a bit, so a little filler and touch-up will be needed. I have to paint the edges of the paper anyway, so it's no big deal :


 
  Danny

I thought about that Carl, but I'd have had bigger problems. To cut extra incisions you'd finish up with the points too short leaving a gap where they meet. If I'd have cut extra ones in ignoring the printed ones there would be a white line between them which would still need painting.
 
Pre-forming the petals with a rounded stick before gluing the skin on helped a lot .
 
  Danny

Here's the next update, the first of the lower hull skins. Hopefully this will be one of the hardest to fit, as it took me a few hours.
 
The bottom of the bow bulges out, which made fitting the skin a lot harder than any of the others. GPM are rather stingy when it comes to designing the cut-outs for rounded areas - Halinski would have used at least twice the amount of cuts, which makes for a better "round". I pre-shaped the petals as best I could before fitting which made it somewhat easier. However there was still some trimming required before it would fit properly :
 




 
It didn't turn out too bad, it'll look a whole lot better with a bit of filler and touch-up paint.
 
  Danny

Here's the next update, the first of the lower hull skins. Hopefully this will be one of the hardest to fit, as it took me a few hours.
 
The bottom of the bow bulges out, which made fitting the skin a lot harder than any of the others. GPM are rather stingy when it comes to designing the cut-outs for rounded areas - Halinski would have used at least twice the amount of cuts, which makes for a better "round". I pre-shaped the petals as best I could before fitting which made it somewhat easier. However there was still some trimming required before it would fit properly :
 




 
It didn't turn out too bad, it'll look a whole lot better with a bit of filler and touch-up paint.
 
  Danny

Here's the next update, the first of the lower hull skins. Hopefully this will be one of the hardest to fit, as it took me a few hours.
 
The bottom of the bow bulges out, which made fitting the skin a lot harder than any of the others. GPM are rather stingy when it comes to designing the cut-outs for rounded areas - Halinski would have used at least twice the amount of cuts, which makes for a better "round". I pre-shaped the petals as best I could before fitting which made it somewhat easier. However there was still some trimming required before it would fit properly :
 




 
It didn't turn out too bad, it'll look a whole lot better with a bit of filler and touch-up paint.
 
  Danny

I thought about that Carl, but I'd have had bigger problems. To cut extra incisions you'd finish up with the points too short leaving a gap where they meet. If I'd have cut extra ones in ignoring the printed ones there would be a white line between them which would still need painting.
 
Pre-forming the petals with a rounded stick before gluing the skin on helped a lot .
 
  Danny

Here's the next update, the first of the lower hull skins. Hopefully this will be one of the hardest to fit, as it took me a few hours.
 
The bottom of the bow bulges out, which made fitting the skin a lot harder than any of the others. GPM are rather stingy when it comes to designing the cut-outs for rounded areas - Halinski would have used at least twice the amount of cuts, which makes for a better "round". I pre-shaped the petals as best I could before fitting which made it somewhat easier. However there was still some trimming required before it would fit properly :
 




 
It didn't turn out too bad, it'll look a whole lot better with a bit of filler and touch-up paint.
 
  Danny

Here's the next update, the first of the lower hull skins. Hopefully this will be one of the hardest to fit, as it took me a few hours.
 
The bottom of the bow bulges out, which made fitting the skin a lot harder than any of the others. GPM are rather stingy when it comes to designing the cut-outs for rounded areas - Halinski would have used at least twice the amount of cuts, which makes for a better "round". I pre-shaped the petals as best I could before fitting which made it somewhat easier. However there was still some trimming required before it would fit properly :
 




 
It didn't turn out too bad, it'll look a whole lot better with a bit of filler and touch-up paint.
 
  Danny

Here's the next update, the first of the lower hull skins. Hopefully this will be one of the hardest to fit, as it took me a few hours.
 
The bottom of the bow bulges out, which made fitting the skin a lot harder than any of the others. GPM are rather stingy when it comes to designing the cut-outs for rounded areas - Halinski would have used at least twice the amount of cuts, which makes for a better "round". I pre-shaped the petals as best I could before fitting which made it somewhat easier. However there was still some trimming required before it would fit properly :
 




 
It didn't turn out too bad, it'll look a whole lot better with a bit of filler and touch-up paint.
 
  Danny

Here's the next update, the first of the lower hull skins. Hopefully this will be one of the hardest to fit, as it took me a few hours.
 
The bottom of the bow bulges out, which made fitting the skin a lot harder than any of the others. GPM are rather stingy when it comes to designing the cut-outs for rounded areas - Halinski would have used at least twice the amount of cuts, which makes for a better "round". I pre-shaped the petals as best I could before fitting which made it somewhat easier. However there was still some trimming required before it would fit properly :
 




 
It didn't turn out too bad, it'll look a whole lot better with a bit of filler and touch-up paint.
 
  Danny

Many thanks for looking in.  Many thanks for the kind comments Heinrich. As this is only my second build I am still learning many of the intricacies of building model boats. I did think of adding wood nails but in the end decided to concentrate on the instructions from Modellers Central....maybe a bit lazy but still unsure of how these builds go. Will probably be more adventurous by adding more detail on my next build!
 
I've finally finished the second layer of planking and although not perfect am generally happy with the result. After a light sanding and a couple of coats of satin finish the hull is looking OK. Next comes the cosmetic frames that go on the inside of the bulwarks. I will also need to cut out the wash holes which will be done after the false frames have been inserted. Have also been finishing off some of the deck furniture which should be finished before I put on the cap rails. More to follow!
 

I've been rather busy doing other stuff for the last week or so. I've finished the upper hull skinning and just started on the lower skins. A progress report will be coming shortly .
 
  Danny

I've been rather busy doing other stuff for the last week or so. I've finished the upper hull skinning and just started on the lower skins. A progress report will be coming shortly .
 
  Danny

Thanks for the advice Pav, but I also agree with Peter. I'm leaving the deck as it is - bad enough now, worse later if I try to fix it .
 
All the extra card has been fitted and faired. I haven't added any extra bracing between large-spaced bulkheads, I'm going to give it a go the way it is and hope for the best .
 
Before fitting any hull skins I need to do some work on the Portholes. I've got the PE portholes from GPM (2.0mm and 1.6mm) which could just be glued to the hull over the printed ones. I've punched them out and glued some thin clear plastic behind to simulate glass. I'll fit the PE after all the hull has been skinned in case some come off when I'm gluing the skins on :


 
Time to glue the first skin. I'm starting with the upper bands rather than the bottom of the hull as directed by the kit. This way worked well on Amatsukaze and I'm doing the same as I think it's a LOT more important to get the detailed upper skins to fit correctly - they all need trimming (1st pic below), and there's nothing dictating exactly how much to take off the lower skins.



 
The sides have a step inward halfway down which needs a narrow horizontal piece. I fitted this first. When fitting the large skin I managed to muck it up a bit, so a little filler and touch-up will be needed. I have to paint the edges of the paper anyway, so it's no big deal :


 
  Danny

The three sections of Deck are on and I've finished adding all the extra card to the bulkheads etc, and also added some between the upper, middle and lower "decks" to remove any slight bows between the wider spaced bulkheads as well as stiffening everything up. Now to spend a day or so Fairing everything. I'm not all that happy about the printing on the deck timber, the joins stand out a lot more because the colours of the planks don't match at the joins :
 





 
  Danny

Nice one Grant .
 
Probably. Or a bigger motor - someone once said "There's no such thing as TOO MUCH power", and I agree .
 
Are you running a Cav Plate? You might have it adjusted a bit too low. That'll push the bow down.
 
More likely the problem will fix itself when you get a bit more speed out of her .
 
  Danny

Thank you for dropping in John . It's 1260mm, about 4 feet long. BIG .
 
  Danny

Apologies for not posting for some time. I spent most of September on holiday (managed to visit the Vasa museum in Stockholm on my travels...worth the 4 hours I spent there!) and arrived back home only to get a shocking flu which kept me in bed for nearly a week! Anyway have been able to do some more work on the Norfolk and have just about completed the second layer of planking. Apologies for the clarity of the photos (my phone has also been playing up...must have caught the same flu bug that I had!!!).  I will be finishing the planking later today then a sanding job together with the first coat of a matt satin finish. The bluff bow was a lot harder than I originally thought it would be but the experience has been both frustrating and enjoyable...if that makes sense.
 
More to come........Fernando

Thank you for dropping in John . It's 1260mm, about 4 feet long. BIG .
 
  Danny

Thanks for the advice Pav, but I also agree with Peter. I'm leaving the deck as it is - bad enough now, worse later if I try to fix it .
 
All the extra card has been fitted and faired. I haven't added any extra bracing between large-spaced bulkheads, I'm going to give it a go the way it is and hope for the best .
 
Before fitting any hull skins I need to do some work on the Portholes. I've got the PE portholes from GPM (2.0mm and 1.6mm) which could just be glued to the hull over the printed ones. I've punched them out and glued some thin clear plastic behind to simulate glass. I'll fit the PE after all the hull has been skinned in case some come off when I'm gluing the skins on :


 
Time to glue the first skin. I'm starting with the upper bands rather than the bottom of the hull as directed by the kit. This way worked well on Amatsukaze and I'm doing the same as I think it's a LOT more important to get the detailed upper skins to fit correctly - they all need trimming (1st pic below), and there's nothing dictating exactly how much to take off the lower skins.



 
The sides have a step inward halfway down which needs a narrow horizontal piece. I fitted this first. When fitting the large skin I managed to muck it up a bit, so a little filler and touch-up will be needed. I have to paint the edges of the paper anyway, so it's no big deal :


 
  Danny

Good evening everyone
 
i was happy with the hanger, but last weekend i ripped the after block off (director gear office) and did it again
this was because at the end of the hanger roof  where it drops down would not sit square (sorted)

i am even putting in access points, in case i need them 

everything is removable at this time
 


 
 
 

Thanks for the advice Pav, but I also agree with Peter. I'm leaving the deck as it is - bad enough now, worse later if I try to fix it .
 
All the extra card has been fitted and faired. I haven't added any extra bracing between large-spaced bulkheads, I'm going to give it a go the way it is and hope for the best .
 
Before fitting any hull skins I need to do some work on the Portholes. I've got the PE portholes from GPM (2.0mm and 1.6mm) which could just be glued to the hull over the printed ones. I've punched them out and glued some thin clear plastic behind to simulate glass. I'll fit the PE after all the hull has been skinned in case some come off when I'm gluing the skins on :


 
Time to glue the first skin. I'm starting with the upper bands rather than the bottom of the hull as directed by the kit. This way worked well on Amatsukaze and I'm doing the same as I think it's a LOT more important to get the detailed upper skins to fit correctly - they all need trimming (1st pic below), and there's nothing dictating exactly how much to take off the lower skins.



 
The sides have a step inward halfway down which needs a narrow horizontal piece. I fitted this first. When fitting the large skin I managed to muck it up a bit, so a little filler and touch-up will be needed. I have to paint the edges of the paper anyway, so it's no big deal :


 
  Danny

Nice one Grant .
 
Probably. Or a bigger motor - someone once said "There's no such thing as TOO MUCH power", and I agree .
 
Are you running a Cav Plate? You might have it adjusted a bit too low. That'll push the bow down.
 
More likely the problem will fix itself when you get a bit more speed out of her .
 
  Danny

Nice one Grant .
 
Probably. Or a bigger motor - someone once said "There's no such thing as TOO MUCH power", and I agree .
 
Are you running a Cav Plate? You might have it adjusted a bit too low. That'll push the bow down.
 
More likely the problem will fix itself when you get a bit more speed out of her .
 
  Danny