Dan Vadas

Topgallant Masts
 
The Topgallant Masts are rather on the thin side, but still needed the same amount of detailing as the lower masts. The Hounds are similar to those on the Topmasts. There are 4 sheaves in each mast, although I cheated a bit on the 3 upper Mizzen mast ones - the two middle ones just have a sheave pin, and the uppermost one is a fake made by drilling two holes and filing a dummy sheave into it. The 1.0mm diameter sheaves which I made for the upper fore and main topgallants are about the limit in size that I can make, these needed 0.75mm which I put in the "too hard" basket :
 

 

 

 
  Danny

Topgallant Masts
 
The Topgallant Masts are rather on the thin side, but still needed the same amount of detailing as the lower masts. The Hounds are similar to those on the Topmasts. There are 4 sheaves in each mast, although I cheated a bit on the 3 upper Mizzen mast ones - the two middle ones just have a sheave pin, and the uppermost one is a fake made by drilling two holes and filing a dummy sheave into it. The 1.0mm diameter sheaves which I made for the upper fore and main topgallants are about the limit in size that I can make, these needed 0.75mm which I put in the "too hard" basket :
 

 

 

 
  Danny

Thanks Grant, Pat, Remco and Cog.
 
Grant, first I drilled the hole, then I used a left-handed cutting tool set to cut at an angle of 45 degrees both ways for the groove. The sheaves were removed from the stock with a cut-off tool. I had to make them one at a time - drilling a 0.5mm hole any further than the thickness of the sheave plus the thickness of the cutoff tool (plus 0.3mm for good measure, a total of 1.8mm) risked a snapped drill.
 
Topmast Trestles and Crosstrees
 
These were a whole lot of fun to make. The Mizzen crosstrees in particular are very tiny - a mere 1.4mm wide by 2.8mm thick (don't try THIS with anything but the BEST timber ). The crosstrees have an aftward curve, and are rebated to the trestle trees in the same way as the lower ones. I found that the best way to make them was by first cutting the rebates into the stock, then cutting in the outside curve. Next I used a compass to draw a parallel line the width of the crosstree, marked and drilled the holes for the shrouds using my mill, and cut the inner curve on the scroll saw. Finishing off was done with a sanding stick. Here are a couple of pics of the Main and Mizzen ones :
 

 

 

 
The Fids for the topmasts were of three sizes, the Mizzen fid being 6.5mm long by 1.0mm wide by 0.5mm thick. I made them the same way as the lower ones :
 

 
A couple of pics of the topmast tops in place :
 

 

 
  Danny

Thank you for all the "likes" and comments. 
 
Hawse timbers... version 4.5 (1 side was replaced once, the other twice).   The hard part (to me) is that lines drawing give no shape to the bow forward of the first cant fram so I'm fumbling with templates and photos.  I think I'm close.  I've filled in most of the low spots and sanded down the highs.  Cherry has this nice feature  that if it ages a bit and darkens, when you sand it the sanded parts become light. This, coupled with a batten and templates gives you a pretty good idea of where one stands in the fairing.
 
They still need more fairing but I need to hold off a bit.  Frankly, I'm getting tired of the sawdust in the air at the moment.     The reality is, I need to put in the gunport sills and fair those in.  And then the interior.  The deck clamp "knees" (actualy just nubs of wood) need to be worked such to give a smooth sheer to the clamps.  I'll have to hold on the clamps though, until the stern is finished.
 
Yes, I'm avoiding the stern like the plague.  Hahn doesn't give you a template on the plans for the transoms so I'm sorting this out.  I have the stern framing showing height and width of the timbers, the side showing the location and depth but no top view showing the shape.  Again, much staring at the prints and Hahn's limited build photos.  This seems to be one of those areas that are "up to the builder" to sort out like the quarter galleries.   Speaking of which I'm also sorting out that area as it's not really defined on the prints as to timbers.  However, I'm putting together a plan, which if it works I'll happy dancing for weeks.
 
So... to the pictures.  The first three show the hawse timbers and cant frames.  None of this will be visible when planked.  The last is kinda' artsy-craftsy looking at the interior so I can get an idea of amount of fairing in there to be done.
 




 
 
As always, feel free to click on any picture to enlarge it to full size.  Oh.. sorry for the sawdust and debris.  I really need to hit this with the shop vac.

Thanks Grant, Pat, Remco and Cog.
 
Grant, first I drilled the hole, then I used a left-handed cutting tool set to cut at an angle of 45 degrees both ways for the groove. The sheaves were removed from the stock with a cut-off tool. I had to make them one at a time - drilling a 0.5mm hole any further than the thickness of the sheave plus the thickness of the cutoff tool (plus 0.3mm for good measure, a total of 1.8mm) risked a snapped drill.
 
Topmast Trestles and Crosstrees
 
These were a whole lot of fun to make. The Mizzen crosstrees in particular are very tiny - a mere 1.4mm wide by 2.8mm thick (don't try THIS with anything but the BEST timber ). The crosstrees have an aftward curve, and are rebated to the trestle trees in the same way as the lower ones. I found that the best way to make them was by first cutting the rebates into the stock, then cutting in the outside curve. Next I used a compass to draw a parallel line the width of the crosstree, marked and drilled the holes for the shrouds using my mill, and cut the inner curve on the scroll saw. Finishing off was done with a sanding stick. Here are a couple of pics of the Main and Mizzen ones :
 

 

 

 
The Fids for the topmasts were of three sizes, the Mizzen fid being 6.5mm long by 1.0mm wide by 0.5mm thick. I made them the same way as the lower ones :
 

 
A couple of pics of the topmast tops in place :
 

 

 
  Danny

Thanks Grant, Pat, Remco and Cog.
 
Grant, first I drilled the hole, then I used a left-handed cutting tool set to cut at an angle of 45 degrees both ways for the groove. The sheaves were removed from the stock with a cut-off tool. I had to make them one at a time - drilling a 0.5mm hole any further than the thickness of the sheave plus the thickness of the cutoff tool (plus 0.3mm for good measure, a total of 1.8mm) risked a snapped drill.
 
Topmast Trestles and Crosstrees
 
These were a whole lot of fun to make. The Mizzen crosstrees in particular are very tiny - a mere 1.4mm wide by 2.8mm thick (don't try THIS with anything but the BEST timber ). The crosstrees have an aftward curve, and are rebated to the trestle trees in the same way as the lower ones. I found that the best way to make them was by first cutting the rebates into the stock, then cutting in the outside curve. Next I used a compass to draw a parallel line the width of the crosstree, marked and drilled the holes for the shrouds using my mill, and cut the inner curve on the scroll saw. Finishing off was done with a sanding stick. Here are a couple of pics of the Main and Mizzen ones :
 

 

 

 
The Fids for the topmasts were of three sizes, the Mizzen fid being 6.5mm long by 1.0mm wide by 0.5mm thick. I made them the same way as the lower ones :
 

 
A couple of pics of the topmast tops in place :
 

 

 
  Danny

Thanks once again for all the kind comments Geoff, Grant, Greg, Nils, John, Joe, David, Steve, Christian, Carl, Janos, Johann, E&T and Padeen, and also for all those who "Liked" my last post .
 
I somehow made a measurement error on the Mizzen Crosstrees, and subsequently had to remove all the pieces of the top (apart from the Battens), make new crosstrees and refit the lot. I'm very happy with the results now .... that kind of thing would have caused all sorts of problems later on.
 
Topmasts
 
The Topmasts are a bit trickier to shape than the lower masts. Starting from the bottom they have an octagonal shape, then a square, another octagon, a tapered round for most of it's section, a tapered octagon and a tapered square topped by the tenon for the topmast cap. It all sounds very difficult, but it was surprisingly easy (although time consuming). As with the lower masts most of the work was done with a chisel, rounding the middle section with sandpaper.
 

 
I made the Fids from brass strip. The rectangular holes were cut with a very narrow chisel after first drilling two small holes :
 

 

 

 

 
Two slots were cut for the Top Rope sheaves, which were turned from brass :
 

 

 
  Danny

This will be the last update for a while as we're off on holiday next week.
 
I'm continuing to fit deck beams in the Pritt.  I had hoped to get more done yesterday, but as it's school holidays here the museum was pretty crowded with lots of people stopping to see what I was doing and to ask questions.
 
It's a little hard to see what's been happening in the photos as all the wood is the same colour, but I think these two show best what the current state of play is.
 
John
 

Hi folks, I am about to head off on some holidays so I thought I had better post an update of my latest additions to my Endeavour.  the rigging is proving to be a challenge in determining what goes where as this is my first rigged model.
cheers
 
Pat
 
 
 

Thanks once again for all the kind comments Geoff, Grant, Greg, Nils, John, Joe, David, Steve, Christian, Carl, Janos, Johann, E&T and Padeen, and also for all those who "Liked" my last post .
 
I somehow made a measurement error on the Mizzen Crosstrees, and subsequently had to remove all the pieces of the top (apart from the Battens), make new crosstrees and refit the lot. I'm very happy with the results now .... that kind of thing would have caused all sorts of problems later on.
 
Topmasts
 
The Topmasts are a bit trickier to shape than the lower masts. Starting from the bottom they have an octagonal shape, then a square, another octagon, a tapered round for most of it's section, a tapered octagon and a tapered square topped by the tenon for the topmast cap. It all sounds very difficult, but it was surprisingly easy (although time consuming). As with the lower masts most of the work was done with a chisel, rounding the middle section with sandpaper.
 

 
I made the Fids from brass strip. The rectangular holes were cut with a very narrow chisel after first drilling two small holes :
 

 

 

 

 
Two slots were cut for the Top Rope sheaves, which were turned from brass :
 

 

 
  Danny

Hello, dear friends!
Thank you very much for your kind words and support. I appreciate all your comments a lot. I have to apologize you, I am writing so late, but I have a lot of problems mainly at work and also many duties, so I did not visit internet almost at all and unfortunately have no time for building models.
I am searching for a new and better job, so it is quite difficult time now for me, cause there are a lot of unemployed people in our country.
I believe, things will go better next months and it will be possible to continue with modelling in winter. I am going to share my work with you and looking forward to continuing.
 
Have a great time and take care
Doris
 
Here are some of last pics from the process, I have made in august.
 

The pins are hand made.
 
 

Dear friends,

I appreciate your kind words and praise a lot. Your support means a lot for me and I feel  very honored you like my work on the model. Thank you warmly for all your comments.
Well, I think you overrate my skills. Here at MSW there are a lot of great and professional quality models, and I find here plenty of superb inspiration. This helps me to achieve better results in my work. I am still learning new ways, how to do...., and also try to avoid own mistakes that I did at my previous models.
 
 
Oh yes, a lot of things I cannot do.... For example I am not very handy for cooking, but fortunately I have a tolerant partner who forgive me.
And the ropes/rigging - I think, you make a very good job on it. Do not underestimate yourself, I like your work a lot.
 
 
Hello Johann,
no problem, I use this rope walk from Amati:
http://www.modelylodi.cz/Pripravek-na-vyrobu-lan-d754.htm
 
 
And what´s new on rigging...

Today I finished main and fore stay. As a basis I use ropes mainly from Amati and Corel, the each rope on the pics below is plaited from three springs.
 










 
Please enjoy the pics and have a great time.
Best regards,
Doris

Hello dear friends,

thank you warmly for your comments and kind words, I am very pleased and honored reading all the posts you wrote to me. That is a great motivation and feedback for my work.
 
This week I have started to make shrouds, all ropes are hand plaited on ropewalk and I try to make the rigging in a better way and more realistic than on my previous models.
All the ropes are also improved by weathering and impregnated.
Here you can see the result:
 




 







 
Best regards
Doris

I decided to add on the bow also the seats of ease, I found inspiration also here:

 








 
As my opinion the bow grating looks better now. I know that the bars should be embedded into slots, but at this stage of progress with many delicate details around it was very difficult to remake the grating and make it accurate.
 
Best regards,
Doris

Floorhead Thickstuff and Treenails
 
Next planks are the Floorhead Thickstuff - three planks thicker than the regular Ceiling planks. The innermost and outermost are a scale 3" thick, while the middle one is 4 1/2" thick.
 
 

 

 

 

 
 
The Thickstuff is treenailed using bamboo.
 
 

 

 

Thanks once again for all the kind comments Geoff, Grant, Greg, Nils, John, Joe, David, Steve, Christian, Carl, Janos, Johann, E&T and Padeen, and also for all those who "Liked" my last post .
 
I somehow made a measurement error on the Mizzen Crosstrees, and subsequently had to remove all the pieces of the top (apart from the Battens), make new crosstrees and refit the lot. I'm very happy with the results now .... that kind of thing would have caused all sorts of problems later on.
 
Topmasts
 
The Topmasts are a bit trickier to shape than the lower masts. Starting from the bottom they have an octagonal shape, then a square, another octagon, a tapered round for most of it's section, a tapered octagon and a tapered square topped by the tenon for the topmast cap. It all sounds very difficult, but it was surprisingly easy (although time consuming). As with the lower masts most of the work was done with a chisel, rounding the middle section with sandpaper.
 

 
I made the Fids from brass strip. The rectangular holes were cut with a very narrow chisel after first drilling two small holes :
 

 

 

 

 
Two slots were cut for the Top Rope sheaves, which were turned from brass :
 

 

 
  Danny

Thanks once again for all the kind comments Geoff, Grant, Greg, Nils, John, Joe, David, Steve, Christian, Carl, Janos, Johann, E&T and Padeen, and also for all those who "Liked" my last post .
 
I somehow made a measurement error on the Mizzen Crosstrees, and subsequently had to remove all the pieces of the top (apart from the Battens), make new crosstrees and refit the lot. I'm very happy with the results now .... that kind of thing would have caused all sorts of problems later on.
 
Topmasts
 
The Topmasts are a bit trickier to shape than the lower masts. Starting from the bottom they have an octagonal shape, then a square, another octagon, a tapered round for most of it's section, a tapered octagon and a tapered square topped by the tenon for the topmast cap. It all sounds very difficult, but it was surprisingly easy (although time consuming). As with the lower masts most of the work was done with a chisel, rounding the middle section with sandpaper.
 

 
I made the Fids from brass strip. The rectangular holes were cut with a very narrow chisel after first drilling two small holes :
 

 

 

 

 
Two slots were cut for the Top Rope sheaves, which were turned from brass :
 

 

 
  Danny

Thanks once again for all the kind comments Geoff, Grant, Greg, Nils, John, Joe, David, Steve, Christian, Carl, Janos, Johann, E&T and Padeen, and also for all those who "Liked" my last post .
 
I somehow made a measurement error on the Mizzen Crosstrees, and subsequently had to remove all the pieces of the top (apart from the Battens), make new crosstrees and refit the lot. I'm very happy with the results now .... that kind of thing would have caused all sorts of problems later on.
 
Topmasts
 
The Topmasts are a bit trickier to shape than the lower masts. Starting from the bottom they have an octagonal shape, then a square, another octagon, a tapered round for most of it's section, a tapered octagon and a tapered square topped by the tenon for the topmast cap. It all sounds very difficult, but it was surprisingly easy (although time consuming). As with the lower masts most of the work was done with a chisel, rounding the middle section with sandpaper.
 

 
I made the Fids from brass strip. The rectangular holes were cut with a very narrow chisel after first drilling two small holes :
 

 

 

 

 
Two slots were cut for the Top Rope sheaves, which were turned from brass :
 

 

 
  Danny

Thanks once again for all the kind comments Geoff, Grant, Greg, Nils, John, Joe, David, Steve, Christian, Carl, Janos, Johann, E&T and Padeen, and also for all those who "Liked" my last post .
 
I somehow made a measurement error on the Mizzen Crosstrees, and subsequently had to remove all the pieces of the top (apart from the Battens), make new crosstrees and refit the lot. I'm very happy with the results now .... that kind of thing would have caused all sorts of problems later on.
 
Topmasts
 
The Topmasts are a bit trickier to shape than the lower masts. Starting from the bottom they have an octagonal shape, then a square, another octagon, a tapered round for most of it's section, a tapered octagon and a tapered square topped by the tenon for the topmast cap. It all sounds very difficult, but it was surprisingly easy (although time consuming). As with the lower masts most of the work was done with a chisel, rounding the middle section with sandpaper.
 

 
I made the Fids from brass strip. The rectangular holes were cut with a very narrow chisel after first drilling two small holes :
 

 

 

 

 
Two slots were cut for the Top Rope sheaves, which were turned from brass :
 

 

 
  Danny

Thanks once again for all the kind comments Geoff, Grant, Greg, Nils, John, Joe, David, Steve, Christian, Carl, Janos, Johann, E&T and Padeen, and also for all those who "Liked" my last post .
 
I somehow made a measurement error on the Mizzen Crosstrees, and subsequently had to remove all the pieces of the top (apart from the Battens), make new crosstrees and refit the lot. I'm very happy with the results now .... that kind of thing would have caused all sorts of problems later on.
 
Topmasts
 
The Topmasts are a bit trickier to shape than the lower masts. Starting from the bottom they have an octagonal shape, then a square, another octagon, a tapered round for most of it's section, a tapered octagon and a tapered square topped by the tenon for the topmast cap. It all sounds very difficult, but it was surprisingly easy (although time consuming). As with the lower masts most of the work was done with a chisel, rounding the middle section with sandpaper.
 

 
I made the Fids from brass strip. The rectangular holes were cut with a very narrow chisel after first drilling two small holes :
 

 

 

 

 
Two slots were cut for the Top Rope sheaves, which were turned from brass :
 

 

 
  Danny

Thank you mhegazi, and a warm welcome to MSW to you Mark .
 
Forecastle Railings
 
I'm nearly at the stage of "Stepping" the Foremast, but I realised that it would be nearly impossible to fit the Forecastle Railings if the Shrouds were already fitted, so this was my next step.

The Stanchions have a wide flair at the bottom, so to simulate that I silver soldered some 1.6mm tubing (ID of 0.85mm) to the bottom of some 0.8mm brass wire. I calculated the length of each stanchion first - none are the same length.

Then I soldered a piece of 0.6mm ID tubing to the top of each stanchion for the Eye through which the rope will pass :
 

 
I made the eyes a little on the large size to make soldering easier, then filed them down to the correct size :
 

 
The top rope has an eye seized into one end, and a lashing at the fore end secures it :
 

 

 
The aft end terminates with a seizing on an eyebolt :
 

 

 

 
  Danny

Thanks once again for all the kind comments Geoff, Grant, Greg, Nils, John, Joe, David, Steve, Christian, Carl, Janos, Johann, E&T and Padeen, and also for all those who "Liked" my last post .
 
I somehow made a measurement error on the Mizzen Crosstrees, and subsequently had to remove all the pieces of the top (apart from the Battens), make new crosstrees and refit the lot. I'm very happy with the results now .... that kind of thing would have caused all sorts of problems later on.
 
Topmasts
 
The Topmasts are a bit trickier to shape than the lower masts. Starting from the bottom they have an octagonal shape, then a square, another octagon, a tapered round for most of it's section, a tapered octagon and a tapered square topped by the tenon for the topmast cap. It all sounds very difficult, but it was surprisingly easy (although time consuming). As with the lower masts most of the work was done with a chisel, rounding the middle section with sandpaper.
 

 
I made the Fids from brass strip. The rectangular holes were cut with a very narrow chisel after first drilling two small holes :
 

 

 

 

 
Two slots were cut for the Top Rope sheaves, which were turned from brass :
 

 

 
  Danny

Thanks once again for all the kind comments Geoff, Grant, Greg, Nils, John, Joe, David, Steve, Christian, Carl, Janos, Johann, E&T and Padeen, and also for all those who "Liked" my last post .
 
I somehow made a measurement error on the Mizzen Crosstrees, and subsequently had to remove all the pieces of the top (apart from the Battens), make new crosstrees and refit the lot. I'm very happy with the results now .... that kind of thing would have caused all sorts of problems later on.
 
Topmasts
 
The Topmasts are a bit trickier to shape than the lower masts. Starting from the bottom they have an octagonal shape, then a square, another octagon, a tapered round for most of it's section, a tapered octagon and a tapered square topped by the tenon for the topmast cap. It all sounds very difficult, but it was surprisingly easy (although time consuming). As with the lower masts most of the work was done with a chisel, rounding the middle section with sandpaper.
 

 
I made the Fids from brass strip. The rectangular holes were cut with a very narrow chisel after first drilling two small holes :
 

 

 

 

 
Two slots were cut for the Top Rope sheaves, which were turned from brass :
 

 

 
  Danny

Thanks once again for all the kind comments Geoff, Grant, Greg, Nils, John, Joe, David, Steve, Christian, Carl, Janos, Johann, E&T and Padeen, and also for all those who "Liked" my last post .
 
I somehow made a measurement error on the Mizzen Crosstrees, and subsequently had to remove all the pieces of the top (apart from the Battens), make new crosstrees and refit the lot. I'm very happy with the results now .... that kind of thing would have caused all sorts of problems later on.
 
Topmasts
 
The Topmasts are a bit trickier to shape than the lower masts. Starting from the bottom they have an octagonal shape, then a square, another octagon, a tapered round for most of it's section, a tapered octagon and a tapered square topped by the tenon for the topmast cap. It all sounds very difficult, but it was surprisingly easy (although time consuming). As with the lower masts most of the work was done with a chisel, rounding the middle section with sandpaper.
 

 
I made the Fids from brass strip. The rectangular holes were cut with a very narrow chisel after first drilling two small holes :
 

 

 

 

 
Two slots were cut for the Top Rope sheaves, which were turned from brass :
 

 

 
  Danny

Thanks once again for all the kind comments Geoff, Grant, Greg, Nils, John, Joe, David, Steve, Christian, Carl, Janos, Johann, E&T and Padeen, and also for all those who "Liked" my last post .
 
I somehow made a measurement error on the Mizzen Crosstrees, and subsequently had to remove all the pieces of the top (apart from the Battens), make new crosstrees and refit the lot. I'm very happy with the results now .... that kind of thing would have caused all sorts of problems later on.
 
Topmasts
 
The Topmasts are a bit trickier to shape than the lower masts. Starting from the bottom they have an octagonal shape, then a square, another octagon, a tapered round for most of it's section, a tapered octagon and a tapered square topped by the tenon for the topmast cap. It all sounds very difficult, but it was surprisingly easy (although time consuming). As with the lower masts most of the work was done with a chisel, rounding the middle section with sandpaper.
 

 
I made the Fids from brass strip. The rectangular holes were cut with a very narrow chisel after first drilling two small holes :
 

 

 

 

 
Two slots were cut for the Top Rope sheaves, which were turned from brass :
 

 

 
  Danny