Thukydides
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As requested see below with the planks colour coded. notice how the white mark is further away from the main plank fan line. It is closer to the narrow end of the fan. I positioned it by making the white mark the same width as the previous plank (that plank is unmarked). I also had to make sure that the widest tick (the red one) didn't exceed the width of the provided strips.
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Minor Update, the planking on one side is done. Thank you to everyone for the likes and the encouragement. @glbarlow So with the benefit of hindsight I should have made the garboard thinner put in three strakes where above I had two. I had lots of room at the stem, but less room at the first two bulkhead lines. This also resulted in the wider second strake than I wanted at midships. Not a huge deal as this will all be sanded and filled and painted white below the water line. @Peanut6 If you are talking about how I gradually widened the planks at the stern (which I discussed in log 11). You can see a good picture of the results of this in log 12 (second last picture). Just in case you were talking about something else, as requested see below: Normally when you use the planing fan you need to make sure your tick strip is parallel to the main line on the fan. All I did to get a gradual increase was to rotate the tick strip which results in the distribution of ticks going from small to large. How I determined how much to rotate was based on using the previous plank to determine the first mark. Then I rotated the strip till that mark lined up with the first plank fan line. I hope this helps clarify it more for you.
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Fantastic work, I am consistently amazed by your work. I have really enjoyed following along with this log.
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Thanks mcp. I didn't think clinker on my first build was wise Also thanks @BobG and @jpalmer1970 for the encouragement.
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Log #12: The Garboard Strake With the second band of planking complete it is time to consider the garboard strake. I have done a lot of reading on where this should be positioned and what it should look like and I am still confused. To make matters worse, the clearest pictures I can find have bows which appear to curve much more sharply. So the part of the garboard that meets the stem has a shape that I can’t reproduce if I want it to fit the alert. The necessary shape of the garboard for the alert thins gradually to a point. The only way I can think of to avoid this is to curve the bottom edge, but that will introduce the requirement of much stronger bends at the bow and everything I read seems to suggest that the top edge of the garboard should be straight at that point. So what follows is my muddled attempts to fit a garboard plank that looks as close to the examples I found as I could make while also conforming to the hull. I used a piece of paper I clamped at both ends which I held against the hull and then ran a pencil along the edge between the keel and the hull to produce the necessary taper. I then transferred this shape to a piece of wider pearwood stock I purchased from @Joe V at the modeler’s sawmill. I then used heat and moisture to bend and twist it so it lay in place properly with no forcing required. One of the difficult parts of this process was determining the bevel on the lower edge in order to fit tightly against the keel given there is no rabbet to slide into. Interestingly, while the template appeared to be narrowing very gradually, now that I have the plank cut and bent, it looks much closer to the pictures I was trying to replicate. Maybe part of my problem was just the optical illusion produced by the pictures. At the stern end I allowed the garboard to widen as it approached the stern post in order to follow the run of the planks at the bottom of the second band. And this is how it looked in the end. Now I just need to finish the final band and the second planking will be complete.
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Looks really good
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That would have been my understanding too. Interestingly, the preventer stay on the alert does have the heart arrangement, but Steel only refers to lanyards in the table and Goodwin identifies the connection between the two hearts (very similar to the Lavery Bellona diagram) as being lanyards.
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I am having trouble figuring out what the lashing for the mainstay would be for a cutter. In Steel's table he refers to lashing ropes in addition to the seizing, and lanyards. The lashings are a larger diameter than the seizings, but it is not clear to me what they are. In the below diagram Goodwin makes no mention of lashings only calling numbers 5 and 9 seizing. A google search for lashings seems to indicate it was a bit like seizing but used to attach one rope to another. If anyone can shed any light on this I would appreciate it.
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Log #11: Adjusting the Second Band I have completed the first band of planking on each side and things appear to be progressing well. Now that the hull is beginning to take shape, I decided to make some adjustments to my lining off based on lessons learned so far. The first of these changes was to stop using the bulkhead lines and to draw some new ones that lined up with the plank ends for my planking pattern. While reading @DelF's duchess build log, I came to the realization that the bulkhead lines were essentially arbitrary and I could use as many or as few as I wished. The advantages of the new system are (1) more precision due to the increased number of measuring points and (2) measuring points that line up with the end of the planks making it easier to cut them to the right shape. Note the lines in the below picture don't look like they are parallel, but that is just a problem of the camera perspective. With the second band the planks at the stern need to start getting wider (they will be full width in the third band). To avoid a jarring transition from narrow to wide I decided to increase the width of the planks at the stern gradually so that the first will match the width of the first band, but the last will be full width. To do this I simply measured the band using a tick strip as normal, but when it came time to mark the individual planks, I pre marked the first one using the width from the first band and then rotated the tick strip on the planking fan until both the two ends and the first plank lined up. This produced a continuous transition from narrow to wide which I then transferred to the stern. Now I just have to finish the second band. In may next log entry we will discuss the garboard plank.
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Just read lots of build logs for the lady nelson and take your time. You may also find a lot of helpful info in build logs for similar cutters such as the alert. Rushing will only cause things to take more time when you have to go back to correct previous errors. You will make lots of mistakes. The great thing about working with wood is that most mistakes can be corrected. Good luck and enjoy.
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It has been quite a while since I last posted so I figured I would give another minor update. I am still plugging away at the second planking, but have had very little time to work on it. I finally got an evening I was able to block off to work on it and have made some headway on the first band on the port side.
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Maybe to add some more weight in favour of single blocks for most smaller guns is some stuff I found in the 1891 textbook of seamanship. In the section on tackle it refers to gun tackle now (in the late 1800s) using either a single and a double or two doubles where previously two single blocks were used. Interestingly it notes that: Power can only be increased at the expense of time, hence there are many cases on board ship where a great deal of purchase would be a positive disadvantage. Were treble-blocks used for the side tackles of a broadside gun, the gun could be run out more easily than with a double and a single block, but then it would be longer in running out, and there would be an inconvenient accumulation of fall. This seems to suggest that likely two singles would have been used for somthing small like a 6pounder. Edit: it seems to me that Goodwin was convinced of the single plus double arrangement because I managed to find his diagram of the tackle for the 6pounders in his book on the blandford and he is using the same single plus double arrangement as he used for the alert book. So now I am second guessing my conclusion :).
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Thanks for the thoughts. I have a copy of Goodwins construction and fitting of the english man of war on the way. I am hoping he may discuss the issue more in it.
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@Gregory So if I understand correctly, it seems that the evidence is uncertain and you could reasonably justify using either method?
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Out of curiosity do you have a source for this? I was looking at the alert book by goodwin and he seems to suggest that the 6 pounders on it used the single + double block configuration. Is this because his source is just contemporary models?
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I think that looks really good. Just try applying varnish over your test piece and see what happens when you rub it a bunch.
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Good idea, it is always interesting to me to see the different solutions and approaches people have to the problems presented by models.
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The best way to learn is to make those mistakes. Starting your own build log is helpful as people here can give you advice and encouragement as you go along. There are a lot of good lady nelson build logs on this site. Read as many of them as you can to learn from other people's mistakes. The lingo is a bit confusing at first, but as you read more logs you will start to understand what people mean by things like bearding line and false meek etc. In any case you can always ask questions on other people's build logs (as long as the question is relevant to their work) your own log or some of the specific topic areas of the site.
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Just a word of warning from one first time builder to another. Make sure you really take your time with the faring and check it with strips many times particularly around the bow. My failure to do this caused me a lot of grief.
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Now that I think about it it seems obvious. I guess it just never occurred to me that the lines I choose don't really matter. I was just using the bulkeads because in all the tutorials that is what people did. I guess really if you want to get your measurements more accurate you use more lines and the only trade-off is the extra time measuring.
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How do you decide where to put the lines? is this just arbitrary or do you space them a specific distance and use a particular technique to keep the straight? I ask because I noted that you have more lines than there were bulkheads on the model and some of them are clearly not in the same place as the bulkheads.
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Minor update: I have finished planking the first band on one side of the ship. So that is one down, 5 more to go. The planking pattern pattern was a bit difficult to figure out at first, but once I got it going it flows easily. On to the next side.
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