BETAQDAVE

Thank you Tom, it's my pleasure. Here's another 
The Escort Carrier Tracker, recovers a Wildcat, with Avengers in the deck park
water colour 14" X 11"

Keeping in the same time frame of the War of 1812, here is a minor war vessel with sheer legs rigged, replacing her main mast. Lots of the books I have for reference have old line engravings of this sort of thing and I've tried to keep the flavour.
Watercolour. 15 x 10 inches

One of my favourites. First painting after returning from the Russian trip
HMS Faulknor
Watercolour 15 X 11 inches 
Jim

For a while HMS HOOD had a catapult fitted at her stern 
Here is a Fairey 111F getting airborn.
Jim 

Hi Graham. Thanks for commenting. They were both of 'my era'. RN personel had a soft spot for the 'Shack' , they used to drop mail to us.
Here HMS Daring recieved her drop, somewhere in the Indian Ocean
jim

This was inspired by Rudyard Kipling's poem about minesweepers in WW1
 
  Mine sweepers courtesy Of Mr Kipling 



DAWN OFF the Foreland - the young flood making
Jumbled and short and steep - 
Black in the hollows and bright where it's breaking -
Awkward water to sweep.
"Mines reported in the fairway,
"Warn all traffic and detain.
" 'Sent up Unity, Claribel, Assyrian, Stormcock, and Golden Gain." 

Noon off the Foreland - the first ebb making 
Lumpy and strong in the bight.
Boom after boom, and the golf-hut shaking 
And the jackdaws wild with fright !
"Mines located in the fairway,
"Boats now working up the chain,
"Sweepers - Unity, Claribel, Assyrian, Stormcock, and Golden Gain." 

Dusk off the Foreland - the last light going 
And the traffic crowding through,
And five damned trawlers with their syreens blowing 
Heading the whole review !
"Sweep completed in the fairway.
"No more mines remain.
" 'Sent back Unity, Claribel, Assyrian, Stormcock, and Golden Gain."

Thank you both, I much prefer the smaller warships.
 Here is a couple of Minesweeping Trawlers
Pencil sketch Trawler 'United Boys and 'Bervie Braes'
10 X 7 inches

Thank you Zach, I look forward to hearing from you.
meanwhile, back in The North West coast of the US.
Orcas with Mellon!
USCGC MELLON off the North West somewhere.
Jim

Thank you Kurt for the detailed explanation of what has worked for you over the years!  I've had the same questions lately.
Dave

I have found that in almost all cases in static modeling silver soldering is not needed. 
 
I have found that stay-brite silver solder (J. W. Harris Co  #11000) is completely adequate for static modeling purposes.  It's listed as silver solder on the container but when it is opened and the instructions are unfolded it is called stay-brite silver bearing solder.  It melts and flows at 430 degrees F and has a tensile strength of 10,600 psi.  I defy anybody to put enough tension on a rigging line to exceed that rating.  The percentage of Silver it contains is shown as 3-6 percent and Tin at 94-97 percent.  It is lead and cadmium free
 
I can't imagine any need for more strength in a static model.  I do true silver soldering on radio controlled boat rudders and control arms.  But the stay-brite has been perfectly adequate for all the hand rails and other metal parts on even 1/12 scale r/c boats.
 
Stay-brite mimics true silver solder in the way if flows into joints.  It can be blackened using the same stuff used to blacken the joined parts.  It's also great for resistance soldering.  I found out with a lot of use that the liquid flux that comes with it works fine but I have switched to Nokorode soldering paste (flux) by M. W. Dunton Co. due to my being able to put the paste flux exactly where i want it unlike the liquid flux.  I also prefer it due to less oxidation and base metal distortion than with true silver soldering.
 
Kurt
 
 

Why should you nee one? After carefully fitting and checking, glueing should be possible without too much problems.
I have seen people using jigs (with various results), but more often people clamp something square (such as a bunch of lego-blocks)  between bulkhead and keel. something like this one (I borrowed this from the internet)
(notice the building board to keep the keel strainght.)

 
Jan

One off, one on. HMS Centaur and Destroyer HMS Carisfort. Sea Vixen off Gannet on. Painted for a guy who served in both ships.
jim

My wife and I have made ten trips to Hawaii prior to my life in a wheelchair and we really would like to return, but air travel would really be tough now.  One of the things that I always admired was some of the woodworking projects that I saw when we were there made of Hawaiian Koa and some of the other native woods.  I would love to incorporate some of them into my modeling projects but, unfortunately have not seen any offered thru any of our wood suppliers.  Is there any source that you are aware of that can supply them?  I  like that you have been able to come up with the some of the woodworking properties of the various woods also.

My wife and I have made ten trips to Hawaii prior to my life in a wheelchair and we really would like to return, but air travel would really be tough now.  One of the things that I always admired was some of the woodworking projects that I saw when we were there made of Hawaiian Koa and some of the other native woods.  I would love to incorporate some of them into my modeling projects but, unfortunately have not seen any offered thru any of our wood suppliers.  Is there any source that you are aware of that can supply them?  I  like that you have been able to come up with the some of the woodworking properties of the various woods also.

My wife and I have made ten trips to Hawaii prior to my life in a wheelchair and we really would like to return, but air travel would really be tough now.  One of the things that I always admired was some of the woodworking projects that I saw when we were there made of Hawaiian Koa and some of the other native woods.  I would love to incorporate some of them into my modeling projects but, unfortunately have not seen any offered thru any of our wood suppliers.  Is there any source that you are aware of that can supply them?  I  like that you have been able to come up with the some of the woodworking properties of the various woods also.

I love Hawaiian Koa. I used it for the binding on my acoustic guitar build. (See thread in my signature) 

Hawaii is one of those places where almost any kind of tree will grow.  Unfortunately apple, pear, walnut and boxwood are not among the trees that thrive here.  Below is a picture of some of the common wood found in this area.  There are many more species but this is what I had on hand to photograph so I will start there and possibly in the future add others.

From left to right they are causarina, tropical almond, mango, albiza, lemon, ohia, milo and avocado.
 
Causarina, also known as Australian pine, she oak, iron wood and river oak is a tree native to Australia.  Introduced in Hawaii as a wind break tree.  The wood is hard with a moderate grain and red coloring varied from a very light red brown sap wood to a dark red heart wood.  To coarse for exterior use on a model that is going to be finished bright but and excellent wood for framing that will remain hidden.  Tends to crack during drying and bleed dark read sap when first cut.  Doesn't seem to be a good wood for bending.
 
Tropical Almond is a tree native to the south Pacific and may be native to Hawaii but there is some that think it was introduced after European contact.  Popular shade tree in seaside parks.  Similar to a tree native to Hawaii called Kamani or Hawaiian oak.  Hard wood with a light brown sap  wood and darker brown heart wood.  Nice grain and works easily.  Fairly hard with a moderate grain.  To coarse for exterior use unless painted but other wise a good wood to work with.  Very good for display base and/or cabinet.
 
Mango.  Common in tropical areas.  Beautiful grain but way to coarse for model building.  The dust and sap can cause irritation and rash.
 
Albiza.  Native to India and is the fastest growing tree in the world.  Considered a trash tree in Hawaii but has nice wood with some interesting properties.  Very light, heavier than balsa but lighter than basswood.  Very strong for it weight but has a coarse, stringy texture.  Works easily and holds fastenings fairly well.  Does not bend well.  Makes a great wood for fillers and backing pieces and can be used for a solid hull that will be planked over.
 
Lemon.  This piece is from a Meyer lemon tree my neighbor cut down.  Unfortunately is laid on the ground in the rain for several days before I found out about it.  Hard, tight grained wood that saws, carves and turns well.  Very susceptible to insect attack and staining if not seasoned and stored correctly.  Very good all around modeling wood.
 
Ohia is the most common native tree in Hawaii and is found no where else.  Scientific names is polymorphus because it can grown in a large variety of forms from a low spreading bush to a giant a hundred feet tall and 3 feet thick at the base depending on the conditions.  Hard, dense and close grained wood.  Will crack if not sealed as soon as it is cut and seasoned correctly.  Has been used for outrigger canoes, flooring, furniture, musical instruments, turning and carving.  Color varies from medium brown to a very dark, reddish brown.  In general an excellent wood for modeling especially for dark parts finished bright.
 
Milo is another tree native to Hawaii and found on other south Pacific islands.  Beautiful wood for carving.  Moderately hard with a close grain.  Light brown sap wood and dark brown heart wood.  Some really old trees have heart wood that is very nearly black.  Common in coastal areas where there is a source of fresh water.  Tends to have a very convoluted, multi-trunk structure so finding long, straight pieces is unusual.  An excellent wood for model building.
 
Avocado.  Common tree in warm climates including southern California and Florida.  Wood is a light brown with a grain that varies from tight and straight to wavy with flecks.  Good wood for general purpose use in model building but the grain can be a problem.

Beautiful work, and a wide variety of subject matter to boot!  Thank you for sharing these with us.
 
All the best -
 

Three more
HMS Campanula cuts through a convoy to investigate a 'contact'.
Replenishing at sea HMS Saumerez and Wave class RFA Tanker
Corvette  Campanula and  Wave Tanker

That's what I like to see, re-purposing a tool to do something that it was never originally intended to do!  I have also tried it with one of my new Sonic Pop Dental units that my wife picked up from QVC as one of their special picks.  I didn't like it for my teeth but after reshaping the head with a bend added to it, it makes a good vibrating sander.  I don't know about you but, I can't sand by hand at 30,000 vibrations per minute!  As it has a very compact stroke it can really get in some tight spaces.  The only drawback is your hand seems to keep vibrating after you finish.

That's what I like to see, re-purposing a tool to do something that it was never originally intended to do!  I have also tried it with one of my new Sonic Pop Dental units that my wife picked up from QVC as one of their special picks.  I didn't like it for my teeth but after reshaping the head with a bend added to it, it makes a good vibrating sander.  I don't know about you but, I can't sand by hand at 30,000 vibrations per minute!  As it has a very compact stroke it can really get in some tight spaces.  The only drawback is your hand seems to keep vibrating after you finish.

That's what I like to see, re-purposing a tool to do something that it was never originally intended to do!  I have also tried it with one of my new Sonic Pop Dental units that my wife picked up from QVC as one of their special picks.  I didn't like it for my teeth but after reshaping the head with a bend added to it, it makes a good vibrating sander.  I don't know about you but, I can't sand by hand at 30,000 vibrations per minute!  As it has a very compact stroke it can really get in some tight spaces.  The only drawback is your hand seems to keep vibrating after you finish.

I'll post the pictures again. It has not been a good digital day.

Hello,   Aside from being  generally entertaining and culturally informative.  I think you'll see some tools and techniques that could be adapted for dimensioning think strips of wood, e.g. the 'planer', the 'bender', the 'splitter'.   
 
 

Very nice thanks for sharing.