Paul Le Wol

Glen, the deck houses are exceptional, especially the rails!

Hi Rick, thank you very much for your comment!

‘Thank you John, I appreciate your comment very much!

Thank you Jacques, the plan at the moment is to add support behind the planks at the water line. Either a vertical or horizontal piece of 1/8” basswood between the frames to keep the planks from flexing. Other than that I think the rest will be left open. But you know how plans change 😀

Thank you Keith, been doing ten minutes of sanding every day so that it isn’t such a big job at the end

Hi Everyone, I hope all is good. Thank you for the great Comments and Likes. Just have a bit of a planking update today. I worked my way up to the rails and added support for the forecastle subdeck which will be 1/32" plywood. The model had to be removed from the build board and turned over to finish the fairing and planking down to the water line. Once that was done I started to focus on the counter. The first two strakes on Port and Starboard needed tapering, bending and twisting. A combination of CA and white PVA was used to keep them in place. My 2 year old Starbond CA was not up for the job so I picked up some Bob Smith CA. Read a lot of good reviews about Bob Smith and I completely agree with them. Support made from 1/8" basswood sheet has been added at the water line. The rest of the counter planks have a slight taper and run off the stern so back to using just white PVA. Next post I hope to be finished the hull planking. See you soon.

This is my take on the people in the photo. If the woman was the captain, she would be standing in the doorway of the pilot house wearing a big smile. She may be the captain’s wife/ daughter who had just brought him lunch. The captain is eating lunch in the pilot house because she wants to take the dishes home before they get underway again The man driving the car is a travelling salesman so the captain has to keep his eye on him during lunch. Those guys in the background are a whole other story.

Beautifully executed work Gary!. The photo etch bender looks like a nice device to have in the tool box.

Hi Kim, the wood effect on the masts and the painting of the eagle look great!

Jacques, just thinking out loud here but would it be possible to draw the stem on the drawing with the A and B cant frames. If the upper ends of A and B are the same distance apart as on the plan view then having the stem drawn there might get you close to the required length

Hi Glen, I’ll let you know if I ever come across any nano clamps for your SIBs

Hi Gary, thank you very much for your comments. I can’t walk by a clamp without buying it. Might have to have an intervention! 😀

Keith, my thoughts and prayers are with you.

John, thank you very much for your comments and support.

Thank you Glen, This is my favorite part of the job. (Not that its a job.🙂) Thank you Yves, I don’t think I’m up to the challenge of making a realistic sea base. I was thinking about getting a slab of 1/2 Corian countertop type material cut for a base. Something dark grey. Thank you Jacques, the jig worked well but wow did that take a long time! Thank you so much Keith.

Hey Everyone, thank you for the Likes and Comments. The are always appreciated! Planking has been moving along at a pretty good clip. The first plank laid was CA'd into the rabbet at the stem. Spacers were made that sit between the waterways and the longitudinal boards on the bulwark stanchions making it easier to maintain the proper run of the first strake. The strake above this one contains the freeing ports and the scuppers. The scuppers were filed into one plank port and starboard using a strip of brass with a notch filed into it. There are 21 scuppers on each side. The planks are edge glued and glued to the bulkheads using white PVA. Small tabs are glued to the backsides of the planks to help keep them aligned. A mold was cut out of a pine board in order to shape the planks running around the stern. The two trigger clamps pivot on their jaws as the planks are moistened and heated with a heat gun. These planks are attached with CA just at the centerline and then with PVA the rest of the way. I added some filler blocks where the port lights will go. The next photo shows the tabs behind the planks ganging up at the bow. And this is what she looks like today. The planks are not in scale but the wider planks are just easier to install and the hull will be painted. Once it is planked up to the forecastle and cabin decks the model will have to be tipped over and the lower bulkheads faired. Take care!

Thank you for the explanation Eric. 👍

Eric,this is very interesting. In the track plan above, there is a duckunder that leads to the staging area. Do you need to access that area for operation or is the switching automated / controlled from a central location?

Hi Bontie, before you use boiling water you could try using a heat gun set on Low and room temperature water. I've been bending a fair bit of Alaskan Yellow Cedar lately so while I have everything set up I got out a strip of 2mm x 5mm mahogany and clamped one end that had been sitting in a cup of water for a few minutes to an ABS coupling. The other end is weighted with mini clamps. Applied heat to the strip of wood while every so often brushing on more water. This result took about 5 minutes. If you are edge bending you can still use a heat gun and water but in a bending jig. Good luck with your project.

Very true.

Hi Mike, if you decide not to use filler blocks you could try an alternate method that I have used and still use. Glue small pieces of offcut planking to the backside of the planks to keep them in line. If you dry fit the plank after shaping and/or bending you will be able to see where they need to be placed. I then glue to the bulkhead and edge glue with white pva. After a while you will be able to figure whether the tabs need to be attached to the previous plank or the plank that you are currently working on. Good luck with your build.

Hi Jacques, I really enjoy using my Ultimation hand operated disk sander and wondered why someone doesn’t make a similar spindle sander. There are lots of sites online about making your own treadle powered lathe. Something like that would be nice and quiet.

Hi Nils, happy that you are able to to get some build time in. Your Elbe 1 is looking great!

Excellent!

Yves, the gun decks are a work of art!