homer

Very nice job Bruce! I set the ship aside for a little while as I have been building cabinets for the garage. I'm just about done if I don't build any more! Then, back to the Morgan. 

I had sent you a personal message some time back congratulating you on such a beautiful build. I just wanted to say it again on the NRG site. I should be getting back to my build soon and like Bruce, will be relying heavily upon your build as I go. Again, just beautiful. 

You wil no doubt get answers from some very talented builders on this site. Personally, I've never used glass as a scraper. I've used metal scrapers on large wood projects but the only thing close to that is using single edged razor blades as a scraper. I have done that. a bit. But, I typically use different sand papers and 0000 still wool before applying a stain, sealer or clear coat. Hope that helps. 

You wil no doubt get answers from some very talented builders on this site. Personally, I've never used glass as a scraper. I've used metal scrapers on large wood projects but the only thing close to that is using single edged razor blades as a scraper. I have done that. a bit. But, I typically use different sand papers and 0000 still wool before applying a stain, sealer or clear coat. Hope that helps. 

You wil no doubt get answers from some very talented builders on this site. Personally, I've never used glass as a scraper. I've used metal scrapers on large wood projects but the only thing close to that is using single edged razor blades as a scraper. I have done that. a bit. But, I typically use different sand papers and 0000 still wool before applying a stain, sealer or clear coat. Hope that helps. 

You wil no doubt get answers from some very talented builders on this site. Personally, I've never used glass as a scraper. I've used metal scrapers on large wood projects but the only thing close to that is using single edged razor blades as a scraper. I have done that. a bit. But, I typically use different sand papers and 0000 still wool before applying a stain, sealer or clear coat. Hope that helps. 

I had sent you a personal message some time back congratulating you on such a beautiful build. I just wanted to say it again on the NRG site. I should be getting back to my build soon and like Bruce, will be relying heavily upon your build as I go. Again, just beautiful. 

Hi Scoot, I just checked out your build. Doing a great job! You also have an awesome shop area. I'm going to retire in two years at (62) but until then am using a small hobby desk tucked in the corner of my office. I travel for work so for the last twenty plus years my employer, Principal Financial has me work from a dedicated home based office. 
 
I see you know John. He's a very nice person and has answered a lot of questions for me and has also been a good source for some Proxxon equipment. My favorite tool is that X/Y table and drill machine. Well, I need to upload some more build pics of my Morgan and maybe I'll do that now!!! Take care and thanks for the info on the brass edging. Ron 

My build continues on the Morgan. I enhanced the ponce wheel jig to make the copper plates. I took a strip of wood and lined it with very thin strips a quarter inch apart. These strips are just a hair thicker than the copper tape. I then played two more thin strips on top of the two previously glued down. Except, I pushed them closer together so there is a slight overhang such that the copper tape will slide between the bottom two and under the top two. I then laid some more thin cross strips that I could trace the vertical ponce lines. I put these just under 3/4" apart and the others are line up guides. I start by running the ponce wheel along one side of the entire horizontal strip. Then, as I pull the copper strip through the jig, I make the vertical lines. I keep repeating the process until done. I only put one horizontal line because the strips will overlap slightly as they are being applied to the hull.
 
I've taken some pics of the hull completion. I also added the 1/8 X 1/8" waterway and sanded the top inside edge down. This will eventually taper into the ceiling planks. 
 
I have included pictures of the copper plate jig and ponce for making the plates. Of interest, I purchased chemicals to put a black, red, rust and patina affect on the copper. I did like the way some of them turned out but in the end, I used Acrylic pain with a make-up rubber do-hickey that my wife uses to apply her make-up (I think!). I would dip the soft rubber sponge thing into the paint, tap it a few times then dap it onto the copper plates. I had much more control of the coloring this way. If you recall, I posted a while back that I like the way the copper plates look on the Model Shipways box cover. So, I came close to that but added a patina look and while they are not the most realistic ... I like it and that's what counts!!! :-)   
 
Oh, while I was making the copper plates, I would constantly wipe with alcohol. Then, after the plates were painted I sprayed a clear matte finish onto them. This way, when I applied them to the hull, my prints wouldn't get on them. After they were all applied, I sprayed them again. I suspect they will continue to age as I've read on this site. So, we'll see what happens!
 
Here are some pics:
 

Hi everyone, I just finished building the Greyhound by Corel at 1:100 scale. I have placed a few pics of it in the Gallery. I just started my new build of the Charles Morgan and will post pics as I go!
 
I purchased the kit from Model Expo and have been a long time customer of theirs. After inventory of everything in the box I was short 30 pieces of 1/16 X 3/32 X 24" and short 2 pieces of 1/16 X 1/4 X 24". I contacted Frank at Model Expo and these were sent out ASAP no problems! They do indeed stand behind their product. This is one reason I like getting things from them if they have what I'm looking for. 
 
The Keel, stem and stern post went together well and were all very straight. I tried something different this time and won't know how well it will work or how clean it will look until I start planking the hull. I took the center keel before gluing on the false keel, stem and stern pieces and after marking the bearding line used my Dremel tool sander instead of chisel. Then I glued the remaining flat surface to the full-size stem, false keel and stern pieces. I'd appreciate any input if others have done this and if it worked well for you.
 
I then pre-shaped and dry fitted the bulkheads. Once square they were glued in place and I then did some additional bevel cutting and sanding. I suspect there will be some tweaking along the way. 
 
I then cut and installed the stern stems. Make sure you align the posts and watch the height making sure not to cut them too short. I then installed the Planksheer and even though I was careful I managed to break (several times) the part going around the bow. I then installed the stanchions and it's very important to make sure they are aligned and most important that when you install the mainrail (again I managed to break this very thin piece several times) they leave enough overhang so that it will accommodate the batten planks. 
 
I looked at a few other build logs at this point and of interest, after the hull was planked it was eventually sanded smooth. However, one would then have to add a fashion piece that is usually painted white along the outside of the plank sheer and I suppose main rail. This was troubling for me and I had to cut off all stanchions and realign to accommodate the stepped look. I really don't know if that was the correct thing to do or take the easy way out, sand the whole thing smooth and add the extra piece later???
 
Now, currently I'm struggling with the stanchions on the bow that go from the main rail down to the filler block. And, at the same time keep the exterior "future" planking aligned with the balance of other stepped planking. The problem is that the interior bow has this ceiling and waterway planks that are supposed to be sweeping up and smooth (just at the bow).  I've taken this apart a few times and naturally busted up the plank sheer and main rail several times. I look at the blueprint sheets everything lines up but I just don't have the sweeping angle it needs. 
 
I'll keep messing with this until I get it! Meantime any advice is always welcome. Also, I'm thinking of getting a ropewalk jig. Is Model Expos as cheap as it looks? I'm also thinking of ordering a few different chemicals from Jax to oxidize the copper plates before I install them. I was then thinking of putting a sealer on them before handling and installing? I really like the way the Model Shipways picture on their kit looks. Frank said the guy that built it actually used paper! you could use a thick paper and still roll over it with the ponce wheel to get the rivet effect. But, I'll use the copper and will sample a bunch of different shades and methods. Do I want more realistic or what appeals to "me"!!!
 
 

It looks like my last uploads were of the deck housings and shelter cover. I've constructed the foremast, main mast and mizzen but have only completed, painted and installed the lower first sections. Hopefully I took some build pics of these. I take a lot of pics and then have to name them and change them from 1-2 meg to something around 500 to 700K so they are easy to upload into the NRG site. 
 
Of note, the metal spider bands were a bit loose on the Foremast and Main Mast. I added / glued very thin shims and then sanded them down so they aren't too noticeable. At John's recommendation I used a business card tried down and painted for the futtock band. I took tin snips and cut the truss iron piece from a piece of tin. Then installed and painted it. Before I go any further I'll see if I can find / post some pics of this work.
 
I just found a few pics and guess what... I forgot to install the cheeks on the Main Mast! Guess I know what the next thing I'll be doing. Ron 

Next I began attaching the deadeye to one end of the served shroud line. I do know that some model ship builders attach the pre-served line to the deadeye and then begin serving it along with the rest of the shroud line. But, I wanted my deadeyes to have "served" line wrapped around them. So I attached the line after serving it. I would place the served shroud line around the deadeye pulling it up about 5 to 7mm past. I would use an alligator clip to hold it in place and then take a thin piece of thread and tie it in place just to hold its position. Then I would attach it back on the serving machine to serve over the now attached deadeye and double shroud line. I would cut part of the extra line if there were too much left.
 
Here's a HINT that I didn't figure out until nearly done with the shroud lines on the Foremast and Main mast... when you wrap the shroud line around the deadeye, tie it off "behind" the shroud line, kind of a twist in the line so the extra part is not to the side. Why, because when you do the final serve / attach the deadeye you don't want the shroud to look too thick just above the deadeye. If you pull the line behind and then do the final serving, your shroud will appear narrow. Obviously, when you overlap the deadeye you're going to have double the line. If you place it and tie it off behind the shroud before you do the final serving, it will look much better. Hope I explained this without making it real confusing! I'm kind of tired and probably not articulating this very well.
 
Here are some pics of my unfortunate too thick shrouds just above the deadeyes. I suppose if you wrapped the deadeye with unserved line you wouldn't have this problem. But, you better be really precise when doing the same on the other side. I wanted my deadeyes to be somewhat in line. I made a jig with pins that will attach to the lower deadeye fixed to the chain plate and hold the top deadeye in established place so I can pull the shroud line taught around the upper deadeye before attaching it in place. I then remove it and return it to the serving machine for the final wrap. I've seen this done several ways so you have to let me know if I'm doing it wrong!  
 
 

So, I should probably upload some of the completed served shroud lines with attached deadeyes. I ran the completed shroud lines around the masts and through the Fore and Main Tops down to the lower attached deadeyes. Then what I do is cut off a length of lanyard. I tie a knot at one end and I harden the tip of the other end with CA. Once hardened I cut a sharp angle on the thread so I can "thread" it through the deadeyes by hand. Once the deadeyes are all rigged up, using tweezers I pull the line taught getting the deadeyes in line and making sure the masts are all straight. While I didn't see this done on pics of the real Morgan (so not sure why I actually did this) but I pull the line up behind the deadeye and push it through the top of the deadeye and served line to the front. I then wrap it around the shroud and use a cow hitch to tie it off. I put a tiny drop of white glue on the knot (drys clear and doesn't crack like CA) that will hold all in place. And, if you mess up or want to change something... like I did, you can pull things apart without destroying everything! 
 
After I installed my lanyards I kept looking at pics that John took of the Morgan. I personally felt like I used too thin of line for the lanyards. I kept looking at how they tied the line off above the deadeye (cow hitch) and it just looked like fairly thick rope. So, I decided to remove all the lanyards and use a thicker twine that I had laying around. I like the way it looks but retrospectively, it now may be just a tad too thick!. Oh well. 
 
Then I really got a wild hair and decided to use some of that Doc O'Brien's Dusting Powders to give the deadeyes and lanyards some character. As you may recall, I aged much of the deck items and wanted to also do something with the deadeyes and lanyards. So far I only did this to the Foremast lanyards and also a few of the ratline boards )I added a couple just for fun even though I'm not really at that step). I was also able to practice a bit tying the ratline boards. So anyway, the jury is still out on the powder/ aging stuff. I might try to wash some of it off but do want some light aging...maybe just not as much as I have added. I'm open to suggestions! 
 
 

So, I should probably upload some of the completed served shroud lines with attached deadeyes. I ran the completed shroud lines around the masts and through the Fore and Main Tops down to the lower attached deadeyes. Then what I do is cut off a length of lanyard. I tie a knot at one end and I harden the tip of the other end with CA. Once hardened I cut a sharp angle on the thread so I can "thread" it through the deadeyes by hand. Once the deadeyes are all rigged up, using tweezers I pull the line taught getting the deadeyes in line and making sure the masts are all straight. While I didn't see this done on pics of the real Morgan (so not sure why I actually did this) but I pull the line up behind the deadeye and push it through the top of the deadeye and served line to the front. I then wrap it around the shroud and use a cow hitch to tie it off. I put a tiny drop of white glue on the knot (drys clear and doesn't crack like CA) that will hold all in place. And, if you mess up or want to change something... like I did, you can pull things apart without destroying everything! 
 
After I installed my lanyards I kept looking at pics that John took of the Morgan. I personally felt like I used too thin of line for the lanyards. I kept looking at how they tied the line off above the deadeye (cow hitch) and it just looked like fairly thick rope. So, I decided to remove all the lanyards and use a thicker twine that I had laying around. I like the way it looks but retrospectively, it now may be just a tad too thick!. Oh well. 
 
Then I really got a wild hair and decided to use some of that Doc O'Brien's Dusting Powders to give the deadeyes and lanyards some character. As you may recall, I aged much of the deck items and wanted to also do something with the deadeyes and lanyards. So far I only did this to the Foremast lanyards and also a few of the ratline boards )I added a couple just for fun even though I'm not really at that step). I was also able to practice a bit tying the ratline boards. So anyway, the jury is still out on the powder/ aging stuff. I might try to wash some of it off but do want some light aging...maybe just not as much as I have added. I'm open to suggestions! 
 
 

Next I started serving the Foremast and Main mast shrouds. I did purchase the electrical ad-on to the serving machine but since it was my first time using it I wanted to turn it by hand to get the feel for it.  I'm not sure if what I did was a no-no but after threading the thin cotton line onto the pre-served shroud line I brushed a very light white glue watered down onto the pre-served shroud before turning it. I did this just in case I goofed up while turning the machine, the line wouldn't come unwound. It seemed to work very well for me and when the time came to adjust the length of the served line, it never came unwound. I should add that it also remained pretty soft and easy to handle and bend / loop. Here are a few pics of that:
 
 

Next I began attaching the deadeye to one end of the served shroud line. I do know that some model ship builders attach the pre-served line to the deadeye and then begin serving it along with the rest of the shroud line. But, I wanted my deadeyes to have "served" line wrapped around them. So I attached the line after serving it. I would place the served shroud line around the deadeye pulling it up about 5 to 7mm past. I would use an alligator clip to hold it in place and then take a thin piece of thread and tie it in place just to hold its position. Then I would attach it back on the serving machine to serve over the now attached deadeye and double shroud line. I would cut part of the extra line if there were too much left.
 
Here's a HINT that I didn't figure out until nearly done with the shroud lines on the Foremast and Main mast... when you wrap the shroud line around the deadeye, tie it off "behind" the shroud line, kind of a twist in the line so the extra part is not to the side. Why, because when you do the final serve / attach the deadeye you don't want the shroud to look too thick just above the deadeye. If you pull the line behind and then do the final serving, your shroud will appear narrow. Obviously, when you overlap the deadeye you're going to have double the line. If you place it and tie it off behind the shroud before you do the final serving, it will look much better. Hope I explained this without making it real confusing! I'm kind of tired and probably not articulating this very well.
 
Here are some pics of my unfortunate too thick shrouds just above the deadeyes. I suppose if you wrapped the deadeye with unserved line you wouldn't have this problem. But, you better be really precise when doing the same on the other side. I wanted my deadeyes to be somewhat in line. I made a jig with pins that will attach to the lower deadeye fixed to the chain plate and hold the top deadeye in established place so I can pull the shroud line taught around the upper deadeye before attaching it in place. I then remove it and return it to the serving machine for the final wrap. I've seen this done several ways so you have to let me know if I'm doing it wrong!  
 
 

So, I should probably upload some of the completed served shroud lines with attached deadeyes. I ran the completed shroud lines around the masts and through the Fore and Main Tops down to the lower attached deadeyes. Then what I do is cut off a length of lanyard. I tie a knot at one end and I harden the tip of the other end with CA. Once hardened I cut a sharp angle on the thread so I can "thread" it through the deadeyes by hand. Once the deadeyes are all rigged up, using tweezers I pull the line taught getting the deadeyes in line and making sure the masts are all straight. While I didn't see this done on pics of the real Morgan (so not sure why I actually did this) but I pull the line up behind the deadeye and push it through the top of the deadeye and served line to the front. I then wrap it around the shroud and use a cow hitch to tie it off. I put a tiny drop of white glue on the knot (drys clear and doesn't crack like CA) that will hold all in place. And, if you mess up or want to change something... like I did, you can pull things apart without destroying everything! 
 
After I installed my lanyards I kept looking at pics that John took of the Morgan. I personally felt like I used too thin of line for the lanyards. I kept looking at how they tied the line off above the deadeye (cow hitch) and it just looked like fairly thick rope. So, I decided to remove all the lanyards and use a thicker twine that I had laying around. I like the way it looks but retrospectively, it now may be just a tad too thick!. Oh well. 
 
Then I really got a wild hair and decided to use some of that Doc O'Brien's Dusting Powders to give the deadeyes and lanyards some character. As you may recall, I aged much of the deck items and wanted to also do something with the deadeyes and lanyards. So far I only did this to the Foremast lanyards and also a few of the ratline boards )I added a couple just for fun even though I'm not really at that step). I was also able to practice a bit tying the ratline boards. So anyway, the jury is still out on the powder/ aging stuff. I might try to wash some of it off but do want some light aging...maybe just not as much as I have added. I'm open to suggestions! 
 
 

I've been able to spend a little time on the build in the evenings. I completed the Tri -Works, Cooling Tank and Scrap Hopper. Didn't have any copper sheeting to make the cooling tank so I used card stock and painted it copper color and then used some aging powder to give it a bit of a dirty look. I need to change the chain attachment that is seen in the picture as it doesn't go well. I'll post my build pics of these below:
 
 

I almost forgot ... a few weeks ago someone was talking about making a more sturdy working stand for the ship while under construction. I initially made my finished display stand shortly after coppering the hull. But, during construction I tend to drip this and that and scratch it all up. Usually, I just refinish it after the build and before the ship is placed in it's display cabinet that I build. 
 
But this new working stand idea intrigued me. I took an old show box and cut it down to size opening the ends to a half circle. Then wrapped the ship in shrink wrap or plastic wrap so it doesn't get anything on it. I then set the ship on the box and shot that expanding foam, you can buy at Home Depot, into the corners. It filled it all the way up and after it hardens I trimmed it down and now have a perfect fitting stand!  

George and Jan,
 
Thank you for your comments!
It is appreciated!
 
Jan, yes this is a big model and the case will be even bigger! I'm sure that there will be a "tug of war" between my wife and me as to where the ship ends up in the house. We'll see how that goes
 
Thanks,
 
Frank

The last pic "ready for Deadeye" is a close up and only a quick sample. The seizing should be about half as long or cut in half to make two seizings. Ron

I've been moving a bit slow on the Morgan build and haven't been able to give it as much time as I'd like. I've laid the deck planks, installed the pin rails and pins, cheek knees, head rails, billet head and have begun working on the deck fittings and the bowsprit. I will upload pics of the work completed to date. 
 
 
 

It's been a while since my last upload. Lots of things going on at home and I haven't been able to spend a whole lot of time on the ship. But here and there I squeeze in an hour or so.  I was able to spend half of today working on it and have some pics to share.
 
I finished with the copper plates and painted the balance of the hull black. I then sprayed a matte finish on it. Then I finished up most of the outside part of the stern and painted it. 
 
I then finished installing the Waterway and Ceiling Planks. Admittedly, I struggled with the Ceiling Planks and had to use a little filler. I then installed the Log Rail and Top Gallant Rail. Again, I painted the exterior black. 
 
I then installed the Lashing Rail and decided to paint the inside now so I wouldn't have to tape off or make a mess after planking the interior. Today I worked on the supports that will go under the coamings for the Hatches, Skylight, Steerage companion, Tryworks and Forecastle. I also installed the deck insert for the Windlass. If I recall, the width of the scrap wood used for the supports was about 1/4" wide. 
 
I'll see if I can upload the pics to this work: 

My build continues on the Morgan. I enhanced the ponce wheel jig to make the copper plates. I took a strip of wood and lined it with very thin strips a quarter inch apart. These strips are just a hair thicker than the copper tape. I then played two more thin strips on top of the two previously glued down. Except, I pushed them closer together so there is a slight overhang such that the copper tape will slide between the bottom two and under the top two. I then laid some more thin cross strips that I could trace the vertical ponce lines. I put these just under 3/4" apart and the others are line up guides. I start by running the ponce wheel along one side of the entire horizontal strip. Then, as I pull the copper strip through the jig, I make the vertical lines. I keep repeating the process until done. I only put one horizontal line because the strips will overlap slightly as they are being applied to the hull.
 
I've taken some pics of the hull completion. I also added the 1/8 X 1/8" waterway and sanded the top inside edge down. This will eventually taper into the ceiling planks. 
 
I have included pictures of the copper plate jig and ponce for making the plates. Of interest, I purchased chemicals to put a black, red, rust and patina affect on the copper. I did like the way some of them turned out but in the end, I used Acrylic pain with a make-up rubber do-hickey that my wife uses to apply her make-up (I think!). I would dip the soft rubber sponge thing into the paint, tap it a few times then dap it onto the copper plates. I had much more control of the coloring this way. If you recall, I posted a while back that I like the way the copper plates look on the Model Shipways box cover. So, I came close to that but added a patina look and while they are not the most realistic ... I like it and that's what counts!!! :-)   
 
Oh, while I was making the copper plates, I would constantly wipe with alcohol. Then, after the plates were painted I sprayed a clear matte finish onto them. This way, when I applied them to the hull, my prints wouldn't get on them. After they were all applied, I sprayed them again. I suspect they will continue to age as I've read on this site. So, we'll see what happens!
 
Here are some pics:
 

The build continues. I planked between the Planksheer and the Main Rail. Admittedly, I struggled at the bow. I only had to do some minor filling for now. I then took a small break and was messing around with how I will do the copper plates. I purchased some chemicals and applied then to the copper. I then made a bunch of plates on a copper strip and used Acrylic paint with very light strokes. 
 
Now, if you remember I very much like the look of the Charles Morgan on the box cover of Model Shipways box. I also did some intense searching and found two other Charles Morgan's built and one placed in a museum. It too had the same look at the box cover (it wasn't the same model). So, the jury is out how or which plates I'll use below the water line. I know what I want to do isn't true to form but darn it... I really like the look!  
 
I've uploaded some pics of where I'm at. On one you can see this jig I made to use the ponce wheel. But the jury is out on that too (I'm not that happy with it). Anyway, opinions welcome!!!! Ron /Homer