Captain Poison

In my opinion you should keep it since it is a discontinued kit and that makes it valuable... If this would be your first kit maybe you should start with other for beginners and thus learn the basics.

Then you could start with this and do a better job because you do have the necessary knowledge.

I repeat that it is my opinion and at the end you are the captain of your ship, so if you think necessary to start with this and no other, here you will find all the support and tips of people with extensive experience.

I saw one on a Spanish website for 220 euros.

http://www.rincondelcoleccionista.com/classified.php/listing/55320/maquetismo-militar-barcos-aviones-y-vehculos/hannah-1775-artesana-latina-descatalogado#.VjbFR2eFPb1

and in September 2015 was sold one on Ebay for 100 dollars

This is a score block, maybe the author did not know how to name this type of block which is similar with two holes?

My interpretation is that the 417 block is double and the single 342. In your fourth image instead of using a single triple block, they suggest to join a 342 and a 417... It is amazing how A.L. not specified in greater detail (why they use two different blocks with the same number I do not understand, must be an error).

The image shows two 417 on the mizzen mast (is not my ship),

in the second image does not appear the blocks 417, the author did it the way that Petersson suggests in his book

Exactly, I was referring to that...as always a pleasure to help!

If all the pieces fit perfectly, you can work in sections... If you think it is appropriate and more easy place the full mast, no problem.

In my case, the pieces fit perfectly and do not need any type of glue, but you have to be precise..

Another thing to bear in mind and above all, is to have more space to work comfortably,do not place the Rails in the tops, do it to last to prevent damage.

Edit:(Tip) When you do the tops of the main mast and foremast, leave a square space for maneuver that held the yard. Because there is not enough space near the masts

You're doing a good job and this is the part that I like most.

It is better to take your time studying each part and its function, to not regret later..

Another thing that will make your work more easy is to put only the first part of the mast on the ship, this greatly facilitates the placement of the shrouds and other maneuvers.

You are welcome..

*Captain Al, Those half part serves to support the rope that held the yard..

I am improving all the rigging which I think is deserved in this scale...my work is based on the book

"rigging period ship models" by Lennarth Petersson,I highly recommend it.

*LA Don, The source of that picture is "Anatomy of the ship" The Armed Transport Bounty by Jhon McKay.

http://soubory.radekshipmodels.cz/knihy/ both books are here...

The comment I made in the post #86, about the space needed for the shrouds is because I'm using thick ropes (excellent ropes found in Syren - Ship model company-) .54/ 1.37mm

I also have seen the same thing and what I did was use another dowel, so I had a perfect fit in the caps, sometimes the A.L. recommendation are not entirely accurate

Edit:Also I had to correct the space at the sides of the topmast to leave more room for the shrouds

In the first image I see that you've placed a Deadeye, (next to the bowsprit cap) when in fact should go a block (#342)... in general you're doing a good job.

Dan,your Vulture scratchbuilt is excellent and somehow you have me inspired for my next ship.

I am thinking of building a Spanish Frigate 22 guns of the 18th century (1:48)

What I try to do on the Bounty is an improvement in the rigging, I understand that the plans indicate what Artesania Latina wants but does not mean that it is entirely correct.

This is a scale that allows you to make a few changes..

Yes they refer as dead blocks ( #501) Model expo sells them to $3.99 (10 units 7mm)

You'll need more since the kit supplies 6 only and will be necessary also on the fore mast and main mast.

These images are not mine but you can see how it is properly. (HMS Bounty and Santísima Trinidad)

* A- 2 each side of bowsprit

* B- 2 in line

No problem thomaslambo, also follow your log and you are doing a great job.

Captain AI, recently I realized that instead of using deadeyes (# 500) you should place closed hearts (4), two in-line and two on the sides.I hope it's not late to change this.

"CP, thank you for the offer of more detailed pix and info. Right now I'm good (I think) but I know I will need help with the masts. Can I avail myself of your personal email (on this site I mean) when the time
comes?"

Feel free to do so, happy to help you... the second and third week of September I'll be on vacation and I'll have more time to work on my ship, I still have to finish the yards of the main mast and mizzen. bowsprit and fore mast are completed.

 

If you still have some doubts about the bowsprit and how many blocks or deadeyes are, I can display images with more details. I have not yet placed it but is completed.

I also have my doubts at the time, Artesania Latina assumes that this model is for experienced modelers and many things are not explained in the manual... I found some errors and report them to the company (I don't think they will do something about it, but if they want to improve the model it is better to listen to customers).

I'm working on this ship from 2014 and now I started with masts and yards, with some modifications that I think should be included in this model, any other questions I'll be happy to share...

Are you talking about this ring?

I have a Dremel Micro and it is really great to work with small parts,especially when it comes to carving..thanks to this small wonder my work look ten times better.

This is what I use and you can find it in businesses of scale trains,it is very good material and they come in different colors,the brand is Woodland Scenics

Recently just bought a thick cutting board 18x 12 inches at Amazon at 19.99 free shipping..

Maybe covering the inside walls with aluminum foil to increase and maintain moisture?

I use an old pan that removed the handle lid leaving a hole about 1 cm,very effective..

I was guessing..there are different periods for this class of frigates,before 1660,from 1688 to 1719 and the list continues until 1850.

HMS Jason is in the category of 32- gun fifth rate (1763)...

HMS Ethalion-1797

For the cannons, I paint them with gun metal and then apply graphite with a cloth..the finish is quite realistic..