Captain Poison

Hi 🙂 Bread oven, part one brick making with clay, and baked, the bricks are bricked up with cement:  
 

Hi All
 
Things seem to have gone ok with the making of the solid piece that fits under the transom.
 
I did the usual of cutting out templates making sure that the grain was correct before roughly shaping the parts and gluing them together.  The angle between the transom and the last frame is slightly under 90 degrees; I don't know how everyone else takes the angles from either the ship or plans but I use a sliding bevel.  I transferred this angle to a face sander and cut the top edge first but I forgot to take a photo of this step.
 
I then I had to think about how to cut the taper at the rear keeping it square to the face.  In the end I used double sided tape and fixed it to a metal block.  This did the trick nicely and worked out the shape by taking measurements from the plan and scribing it as I went along.  
 
It's made now but I just need to rough shape it a bit first on the outside and also cut the recess on the inside.  
 
Cheers Mark
 
 

Yes CNC and 3d printing has its advantages.  But laser cutting at an advanced level can produce some excellent results with some creativity.  
 
Below is an experiment of mine I would like to eventually translate to cnc.  But as you can see you can achieve shapes and details with a laser cutter that most wouldnt have guessed.  The double blocks below were entirely laser cut. 
 

In fact these are laser cut using just Yellow Cedar.  The color is all the laser char.  A quick dip in Ebony stain and you have some really nice blocks.  The laser cutting was done all four sides.  Pushing the limits of the machine.  Four of these little sticks took about 7 minutes or less of actual laser cutting.  Thats not bad for 24 pretty acceptable double
blocks.
 
i would like to apply this same technique to the Hobby CNC machines out there and see if they cross over.
 

Interesting development...Divers are making a digital map of 17th century warship 'The London'

Hi Everyone
 
I've at last made a start on installing the frames.  I had to make a lot of adjustments to my building frame as I realised that I had adjusted it to follow the line of the whale rather than the line I required.  I just misread the drawing but thats all sorted now.  I've made up lots of chock blocks for between the frames so hopefully it will all go ok.
 
A few pictures below of the first two frames complete with keelson chock with the limber channel and the upper and lower chocks too.  I'm sure that I will need to make some alterations along the way but so far so good.
 
Mark

Hi all - sorry for the lack of updates but I started some decorating at home which has turned into a full blown building job so I'm fitting the ship building in-between.
 
So what have I been doing - well finding more patience than I thought that I would ever have.  
 
I discovered that just because I had made the parts for the transom did not mean that they would all fit perfectly together.  Wow what a challenge this turned into for me!  To get all of the parts to line up so that all of the joints were nice a square and that the shape of the transom was also correct was far more difficult that I thought it would be.  
 
I managed to pretty much ruin the first set of lower transom parts that I made in my efforts to get the fashion pieces to fit correctly.  It then took a week of soaking in IPA to get them unstuck as the joints were tight without the glue.
 
So here is what I learnt - leave the templates on all of the parts after gluing them together so that you have a reference to what you are trying to sand too. Without them I was just sanding blind which just made things worse.  Also leave enough on the parts for the fairing of them - I'm starting to get better at this.
 
Anyway the results are in the pictures below and quite frankly I think that this is about the best I can do at this stage of my ship building experience.  I have also added the small wedges that are required between the wing transom and the fashion pieces.  I hope that it's all ok and if anyone can see something that I need to alter please let me know.  If not the next job is to start installing the frames.  Wow what a few weeks this has been and now I know how Kevin Kenny felt last week!  I have to admit I did enjoy doing it though!!
 
Cheers Mark
 
 

After a few lovely weekends catching up with the family I've at last got around to having a go at the wing transom.  So what did I discover?  Firstly its quite a complicated piece to make and requires a big piece of timber to make it.  Its a shame that about 40% of that piece of wood is turned to sawdust but thats just the way it goes.  It took a lot longer to make than I thought it would due to all of the angles involved.  A few pictures of the process below and for a first attempt I think that it came out ok.
 
 

A few pictures of what is now starting to look like a ship.
 

Just a quick update.  This completes Chapter 8.   The carlings and ledges were added to the deck framing.  There are mostly carlings which run fore and aft between the beams defining the hatch coamings and companionways.  1/8" x 1/8" cedar strips were used.  The long strip was painted red on the sides and bottom like the beams.  Then small lengths were cut and fitted according to the provided templates.  
 
Normally you see these morticed into the beams.  Yes....you can do that if you like.  But as long as they are glued in well and secure that is a lot of work to only be covered completely with deck planking.   I just cut them neatly to fit.   The two ledges on the forecastle were done using 3/32" x 3/32" strips.  In addition, the mizzen mast partner was added which is laser cut for you.
 


We are now 2/3rds of the way through this project.  There will be four more chapters in order to complete the model (not including the barge).  Here is a breakdown of what those last four chapters will entail.
 
chapt 9 - Plank the fcastle and qdeck and remaining bulwarks.  Add the cap rail.   All the remaining coamings and gratings.  A few other minor fittings.
 
Chap 10 - All remaining deck fittings.....  The waist will be started as well with the gangways and stairs.
 
Chap 11 - Return outboard to add the channels and deadeyes....fenders and swivel stocks.  The fancy rails along the sheer of the qdeck and fcastle.  
 
Chapter 12 - Add the 8 pounder guns.   The headrails.  The stern lantern and other remaining fittings.
 
That finishes the hull and then a separate barge will be made so it can be placed on spare topmasts along the waist.
 
Here is a look at the hull with the planking templates (already uploaded here for you).   I will start the next chapter with the margin planks and move on from there.  Think about how much easier the planking will be this time.  The templates are done for you and lining off the hull will be simple.  You just have to fold the templates along the deck beams and use them as a ready-made tick strip.  Easy-Peasy.
 

 

 
 
 

It’s been an interesting few weeks working on the guns, the gun port doors, and eye bolts and split rings. I found the gun port hinges particularly challenging and am not completely happy with how they came out - still need to install the two at the bow.  I have a bunch of photo etch brass left over from other projects, and used bits and pieces to make the hinges but had a lot of trouble getting them shaped properly. The guns went together well and the weathering powder is a nice touch that adds a bit of depth. I got really good at making eye bolts and  split rings - the annealed wire Chuck recommended is easy to work with and cuts well using a razor saw. Some pics………..
 
Don

Hello, I continue with the carving of the bastions, I made them in American Oak and it turned out to be quite good at making details. The color does not matter because everything will be painted. Then I start with the main wales.

More progress. .

 
Mike

Hello, I already started to open the embrasures ... then I go to the main wales

If you recall I didn't take any construction photos of the stove the first time around so I had to build another one.  This will allow me to complete the 8th chapter.
 

Step1....Assemble the four 1/8" cedar pieces that will become the foundation for the stove.  Note the bottom "B" in the photo.  The two larger pieces are glued to each side of "B" so the ends are flush.  The final smaller piece is glued to what will be the aft end of the stove.  The top edges are flush.  Sand all edges flush and there is no need to remove all the laser char but the fore and aft surfaces should be sanded smooth for painting black later.
 

Step 2 - Glue the aft face (1/32" thick) onto the aft end.  The top is flush.  Note how the bottom edge hangs lower a bit.  That is by design.

Step 3 - Glue the 1/32" thick sides into position.  Make sure you orient them the correct way.  Note how the aft edges and top and bottom are flush.  Sand them smooth with fine 320 grit sandpaper.
 

Step 4 - Glue the top into position.  Sand all edges and corners flush.  Once again be careful to glue it on in the correct orientation.
 

Step 5 - Glue the grill into position. Outside surface is flush with the side edges.
 

Step 6 - Although indicated as step six because I built it in this order...I know realize that the above step should be done after you complete steps 7 and 8.  It will just be easier.  So skip ahead and then return to step 6.   In this step the two larger platforms are glued into position followed by the lids for the pots.   This is pretty easy as you just have to follow the laser etched outlines.  Sany them smooth for painting.
 

Step 7 - Glue the strips around the perimeter as shown above.   These are thin so be careful.  Add the three lengths for the legs first keeping them even so it wont wobble.  Then add the cross piece along the top edge.   The edges are flush as you can see.  Sand them flush after you glue them.  Dont worry about the laser char as the whole thing will soon be painted black.
 

Step 8 - Glue the doors into position.   Dont worry about the laser char.  You can also see above that I glued the two halves of the hood together so it can be shaped and sanded smooth.
 

Step 9 - Glue the round vent you see on the top of the stove.   You can also see the hood has been shaped.  It was sanded free of char and smooth.   The front edge of the hood has a slope aft.  This needed to be sanded into the hood.  It is not a very severe slope but you should check the plans for details.  The hood was laser cut a bit wider than needed to leave you room to sand it for a nice fit and all squared up.
 

Step 10 - Glue to more of the round pipes on the front face as shown to simulate the drains.  No need to get fancy here as these will be nothing more than a shadow once installed on your model.
 

Step 11 - assemble the stack and drain pan.   Get them ready for painting.   The short ends of the drip pan were glued on first followed by the long sides.  The stack is laser cut with very thin sheets ....but they are really not thin enough to look in scale.  So you should at least sand the walls along the top edge much thinner to make them look in scale and more fragile.  Not the whole stack but just gradually sand the sides tapered so it has the appearance of being much thinner sheet metal. This would be a great time to paint all of these parts as well.  Go ahead and paint the stove and these two other pieces black.  Keep the surface smooth and free of brush strokes.  Sand regularly between coats as you finish up the remaining details.
 

 
Step 12 - The stove has its first coat of black paint.  At this stage you can glue the laser board hinges onto the stove for all of the doors on each side.  Then paint those black as well.
 

Step 13 - Its going to look a bit messy now because its hard to not see all of the dust on the black painted surfaces.   But ignore that for now and press on.  Glue the two brackets onto to stove as shown.  Line up the square area of the bracket with the other one you already glued on each side.  Center it so there is equal distance on the top and bottom of the tiny squared area already on the stove.  Keep these brackets lined up on both sides and level.  They are very delicate so be careful.  Then there is one last tiny square or should I say rectangle of laser cut wood that is also glued to the top of the squared section of each bracket.  This finishes the simulation that the brackets are sliding through these small clamps on the side of the stove,  Paint them black when done.
 
Note that I also cut some 19 gauge black wire to length which will span across the brackets.  I glued the tiny disc to one end of the wire as shown above.  Then I also line up all the pieces for making the pulleys.  The pullies are made in three layers.   The center layer is very fragile so be careful. 

Step 14 - To assemble the pullies...glue one of the discs over the top of those in the center layer.  Tey outside layers are slightly larger than the center layers.  Then repeat this process on the other side.  These discs on the outer layers will simulate a pully nicely.  Just remember to keep the holes for those pulleys lined up.  See the photo below whic shows the entire assembly completed.

Step 15 - Glue the pulley assembly onto the other end of the long 19 gauge wire you made earlier.   You will also need to cut a shorter length that will be inserted in the smaller pully of the assembly.  See above.
 
Also not that because you may build your stove slightly different than someone else, I have laser cut three sets of "center layer" pulleys.  The top one on the sheet is the longest.  I used this one.  But you may have to use one of the other sizes depending on how you do in the next step. 

Step 16 - You must drill a hole into the side of the hood.  The shorter wire on the pulley assembly will be inserted into it.  Depending on where you drill this hole will determine if you need a shorter or longer pulley assembly.  So place the pulley on one of the bracket arms to get a sense of where you need to drill that hole.  I ended up drilling it dead center (left to right) on the hood but slightly lower than center (up and down).  If that make sense.   You can also use a shorter pulley assembly and place it on the next level above on the bracket arms as well.   You have many possibilities.
 
I have also started to take care in finishing the black painted surfaces properly.  Sanding the rough spots with 420 grit and repainting.  I have also used some weathering powder as well to make it look like metal. 

Step 17 - 24 gauge black wire was used to shape the handles for the pot lids.   I drilled out the holes in the lid deeper and test fit the handles carefully so the black paint wouldt be damaged.   I had to bend the wire a few times into the handle shape so it was the correct length so the holes lined up.  The stack was also glued on top as you can see.

This finishes your stove.   There are many more details you can add but that is up to you.   The stove will end up being only partially visible below deck.  So take your time and make sure the painted surfaces are smooth and painted with care.   
 
On my stove for the model I added some wire to each side along the top edge.  This was sometimes used on the stoves to hang pots and pans and utensils.  But the stove is very fragile so this is an optional detail.  I used 25 gauge black wire.  There were also eye bolts with rings along the top edges in some cases which were used for the lifting the stove.  Again ....you can get crazy with the level of details.  But below deck you will be disappointed with how many of these details will ever be seen.  So rather than risk breaking it or over doing it, I concentrated on "neatness"  and making a well crafted  and painted stove.  These close ups are pretty brutal but this is a tiny fitting actually.   
 

 
Ample amounts of weathering powder were used on all surfaces once completed.   The powder achieves two things.  First when using a rust or brownish tint it makes the whole stove look more like metal.   But most importantly, the entire stove was coated with an ash or grungy black powder first.  Every surface.   The powder really smooths the surfaces out and covers up the brush strokes etc.  ....It makes the surface smoother to a degree but all care should be taken to have a smooth painted surface ahead of time.   I used the grimy grungy black powder first.  Then I followed that up with some rust powder.  I tried not to over do it with the rust because you dont want it to look too "rusty".    You just want to use it to define certain areas.  You can see the difference in the surface quality as my stove assembly progressed.  With each new photo I spent time working on the surface quality and applying more powder.  I also sprayed the entire stove lightly with Dull coat before adding a final layer of weathering powder.   
 
As this was my second stove I wont go crazy.  I just needed to have construction photos for you guys.  Just take your time.   It took me 14 hours to assemble the stove and finish it as you see it in the above photos.  I also learned that it is very very hard to take pictures of a solid black object so you guys can see the details, LOL.
 

 
Shown on the model.  But remember the fcastle deck isnt done yet so you can see how much of the stove is actually seen.
 

 
 

Should one maybe add the Ringbolts inside the gunport lid as well?
Many of the contemporary shipmodels show them.
 

 

 
 
 
,
 
Matthias

Looks great,good idea!

Alan and his buddy Jerry (seen in this pic) did strip the hull to bare wood.Funny enough,they restored the hull on the old Gilligans island set,on the Universal backlot..They also stripped parts of the flybridge area to bare wood.but left most of the paint alone as far as the roofs,etc...They only stripped the area where they felt it needed attention.The hull was in rough shape after filming....Also I dont see that harpoon attached to the barrel you mentioned.Maybe your seeing the anchor,or the steel piping of the barrel runner guide?

Welcome to MSW!
 

Welcome to MSW!
 

Thank you everyone for your kind remarks and likes. 
I finished the aft bulkhead over the weekend. Nothing is glued in yet.
Looking at the pictures reminds me that I never put in the waterways. 
Canons next - I intend to rig the canons. I'm mindful of NZ Reg's reckoning of 2 hours per canon for rigging. That should keep me quiet for a while but semi-retirement beckons from the end of September so all being well I'll have a bit of time on my hands.

 

 

 

 
 
 
 
 
 

Ratlines for the topmast shrouds 
The topmast shrouds were thinner than the lower shrouds (comparison on the model: Fore mast shrouds ø 1.08 mm / fore topmast shrouds ø 0.66 mm), their ratlines are also to be made with smaller diameters in proportion, which is the result of earlier research.

 
Some time ago, I tried to clarify whether the required eye splices could be made with a thickness of ø 0.25 mm. For this purpose I made a splicing tool with a smaller diameter ø 0.8 mm, as shown in the next picture. 

  
The fake splice (2x sticking through) with a dew thickness of ø 0.25 mm was already quite successful at that time. 
In the following picture you can see the comparison of the ratlines thickness again.I don't like the simpler alternative version with knots, because it is too thick and doesn't correspond to the original version.
 

In the meantime I have found the time and muse to make these filigree ratlines with the fake splice directly on the model. It has to be said that this is an extremely difficult job, but it can be done. In my opinion, the result speaks for itself. In this respect it is worth the effort.

 
But now we will continue with mizzen topmast stay. I still have to find out how it was attached. 
I would be very grateful for any information. 
See you soon ...
 

Greg and bitao thanks for the words of advice it really does help me learn.  If I was starting over again I would have certainly left far more on the frames than I did.  That's one for my next build 👍
 
I've got some more frames raised today and it seems to have gone to plan.  I have found though that my frames are not quite matching the guidelines that I made on the building board.  I have been checking the frames for square to the base board and they definitely are. I trust my engineers square far more than I do my marking out.  Its a bit basic they way that I check for square - just a flat piece of timber clamped to the face of the frame; it seems to work.
 
The next forward frames require me to make bespoke chocks off of the rising wood.  As the frames rise up the apron the chocks follow.  I don't think this will be too hard to achieve.  Here's hoping