Captain Poison

Hi Jorge, you PM is answered, sorry for delay...
 
meanwile the starboard upper head rail and knees are ready:
 

 

 

 
Regards
Alex

Hello,
 
not much progress here, the work go slowly...
 

 
Alex

Just a few details today - staghorns, ringbolts, breeching ropes.

Quint’s fighting chair. Fishing rod to do. 😊

A bit of an update....... I’ve been working on Chapter 5 and have it pretty much completed with a few exceptions like the trim in front of the figurehead and the gunport lids. The bow details were a challenge but I’m happy with how they came out. On to the cannons soon. 
 
Don

Good morning.

Having gotten the guns, carriages and jig from Chuck, I started work on them. Chuck had mentioned how tedious this repetitive work can be. How true that is. I did the first eight and then decided that I had to do something else or go  crazy. I chose to do the lower capstan. I will probably do the upper capstan after doing the next eight guns. As you can see, I went with natural gun carriages, but a red capstan. It just seemed "right " to me. It is my intention to rig the guns with breach ropes and side tackles after I finish making them all.
 
I also added the knee above the hawse holes on the interior bulwarks.
 

Moving forward...
 
Stanchions and railing around the companionway.   There are many ways to do this.  Contemporary examples show wood rails....metal stanchions etc.  You guys can choose once again.  Painted versions are either red black or white ...even a combination of those colors.  
 
I chose wood because I dont like messing with metal work.  I turned these using my dremel.  Just like I do when making belaying pins.   They are only about an inch long so you dont get any wobble in your dremel and it doesnt take much time to make.  You only need four of these.  Try your best to make them identical.   I started with a 1/16" x 1/16" boxwood strip.   I marked the breaks in shape in pencil on all fpur sides so I can see them as its spinning.   Its basically just the center thats rounded.  I leave the top and bottom square.  I also shape a small ball on the very top.  But you can make these as fancy as you wish.
 

Then I painted them black and cut the bottom of each away so they were all the proper height. I pegged them into the coaming using some 24 gauge wire.   The rails are just 1/32" x 1/32" boxwood strips painted black ahead of time.   The segments were cut to length and added between the stanchions.  I took care to get them level while not pushing the stanchions out of alignment.  They are just glued in with Tite-Bond.   Then I touched up the paint.   Its slow and methodical work.   You have to constantly check that each rail is level etc.   These pieces are thin so they dont look out of scale.  I see so many rails around a companionway that are so thick and out of scale.
 
Now to add more beams and knees as I move forward...
 

While I enjoy plank on frame construction more than POB, POB does go faster.  As no internals will be viewable, POB is definitely a nice alternative to POF.   The bulkheads are all cut out and mostly in place.  The QD and FC bulkheads are yet to receive decoration and moldings and only set in place for now without glue so a couple filler pieces between bulkheads are not yet in place.   Filler pieces are in place between the other bulkheads to give some rigidity and the entire unit has to be faired once the two loose bulkheads are complete and fixed in place.     There is work yet to be done in fairing the deck line as well as the outside of the hull, but not too much. 
 
The bulkheads are not all evenly spaced.   Some of the bulkheads are on the station lines which were very easy to draw and make.  Others are offset to account for the gun ports that will be left open and the QD and FC bulkheads which do not sit on a station line so a bit of lofting had to be done in each case.  At this scale, the top timbers are extremely weak and easily snap off.  Once the filler pieces were glued in placed, this problem went away and stood up well to  the preliminary rough sanding, even with a vibrating mouse.  At this point I see no need to add additional filler/stiffener pieces between those that are in place and the keel. 
 
Not sure if I am going to treenail the  hull and/or eck planking when the time comes.  At1:64 the trennals would only be about 0.016 in diameter, the smallest hole in the Byrnes drawplate.  I have found getting even bamboo this small to be a frustrating task at best, so am hesitant to even put them in.  I realize these can be added even without full frames or filler pieces, just piercing the planking, but no sure how this would look at this scale.   I could also drill the holes at this size and just fill them with a smear of glue and sand over the holes to fill the with sawdust.   I would love to hear any thoughts and see any photos on how any type of tree nailing will look at this scale. 
 
 Long way to go, but no major glitches so far even with only having the basic contemporary body plan drawing as a guide for framing.

 
 
 

 
 

Frames continued:  Frames 1 - 18 are installed.  #s 17 & 18 are the first of the after-most frames that lodge on the deadwood rather than on top of the keel.  There are notches on both the deadwood and the frame set that need to mesh and align with the rabbet.  Having floors on the frames  and the 1" wider keel / stem & stern complicates the installation.

I'm also going to have to put temporary spacers between the first four frames, otherwise fairing the sheer and sides of the frames will be impossible.
Maury

Thank you very much Silverman. Thanks for the like! 😇
 
I have been thinking for a long time about finishing the connection of the front stem according to Witsen..
 

 
Replica of Barents' ship..
 

 
So I added it. The cuts were made with a 0.15 mm thick razor saw, and 0.09 mm black paper was placed..
 

 

 

 
Klinkbout will be added after grinding..
 

 

 
And now really a balcony..
 

I've made a start on the keel today.  So far its pretty straight forward but I did find that the long paper templates stretch a bit.  It's not a problem I just needed to check the parts off the plan a lot to get them the right length.  I've cut the first scarf which needs a little work before gluing but its ok.  I'll cut the tenon for the sternpost next and then cut the rabbets.  I'll start moving forward then towards the bow.  So far so good.
 
 

Hi John.
I'm not finished with the gun rigging.
Karl

Thanks to all for  the likes
 
Update
 
Karl
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 

Update.
 
Cannons installed on the first gun deck, 
inclouding the deck beams of the second gun deck.
Next, I' ll make and assemble the blocks and rigging for the cannons
on the first gun deck.
 
Karl
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Thanks so much Greg, Fred and the "likes".
 
Like every modeler, I mostly see the faults in what I do. More importantly, Winnie is a truly fun build that I look forward to working on every day.
 
Bob

I was about to glue the column into position when I thought to check out a few more contemporary models.  I was browsing through "The Legacy of a Ship Model" by Rob Napier and most of the columns were red and I really liked the look.  The natural column got kind of lost which is probably why you see most them painted red or white (ivory).
 
So I decided to paint it red....long story short and I think it looks even better.  You at least now get to see it both ways and hopefully it will help you decide.
 

When it's time for me to make my rope, I'm going to purchase Chuck's rope making device.  He published a tutorial for it, and it looks like it would be very satisfying to use.
 
Alan

Hi All,
 
Recently someone took my inspiration, so I had some time off from my model 😆😆
Anyway, it came back so here's some update.
 
Standing rigging it's almost completed. Just futtock shrouds are missing.
I guess it's good time to start doing final tension adjustment...
 
All leechline and buntline blocks got their place on the shrouds.
Also, you can see crowfoot on mainstay (interesting piece of rigging, used as a preventer for sails to go under the top)
 
Enjoy the photos!
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
At that stage model looks like as below 
 

 

 

 
 
Cheers,
Matt

Hi All,
 
Another episode of ropes and accessories 😋
 
So currently I'm working on "upper level" of standing rigging like top shrouds and stays.
However, it's a good time to consider some other parts to install at that stage, so meanwhile I'm adding stuff like topmast rope and block or leechline and buntline blocks attached to the sides of main shroud eye.
It will be easier now and this way when there is some more space for fingers and not many ropes around.... later it might be 🤬🤬🤬
 
You can see also, that I've manage to do main yard halyard with one of the biggest block (ramshead) on this ship, hanging quite high above the deck 😏
Main yard is just test fitted and it will be removed.
 
Now it's time to jump to foremast top as it has similar "setup", but with just a little bit smaller rope diameter and blocks sizes.
Then last stay, which is fore topmast stay and somewhere in between futtock shrouds... and I will be ready to start with standing rigging tension adjustments and most likely fixing it in permanent position (hopefully 😳 )
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 
Cheers,
Matt

Hi All,
Thank you for your very generous likes guys!       
 
So another small update from me.
Now I can say that standing rigging on level 1 is done  
Time to slowly climb on upper level.
 
Foremast stay done
 

 

 
 
Gammoning also done.
 

 
 
Cheers,
Matt

Hi All,
 
This time... finally some rigging 🍻
 
Side tackle and garnet tackle.
For the time being garnet tackle pendant and guy will be removed as it will go over the shrouds.
Obviously running rigging is not yet fixed permanently. It will be necessary with shrouds and stays to do some tension adjustments.
 
Garnet tackle and side tackle were used for loading purposes and also for some heavy job on board... lifting of heavy ropes, cannons, etc...
When not in used side tackle were not rigged and garnet tackle pendant and guy were secured.
 
Next step... shrouds.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Cheers,
Matt

Thank you Michael! 🍻
 
Hi All,

Another small update.

Ropes, Blocks & Rock'n'Roll   😆

I've started with bowsprit. It's just easier to do it when is not attached due to quite few blocks as you can see... rather than moving whole model and for sure damaging something 

I'm just missing few stoppers for stropped blocks, which were protection for sliding on the bowsprit and can stay at the same time whole time.
 

 
Lower part of main mast also received deadeye which is a part of mizzenmast shroud.
 

 
Double block on the flagstaff, which is part of mizzen sheet.
 

 
All gun tackles and breeching ropes done... so ship is ready for battle 
 

 

 
Cheers,
Matt
 

Hi All,
 
I have small update with progress on Papegojan.

Currently I'm working on so far most annoying details... gun tackles 
Blocks 2mm, rope - around 0,25mm
At the same time I'm working on gunport lids tackles - rope 0,35mm
 
Here's how it looks so far...
 

 
Blocks are made of pear wood.
Long time ago they were made by my friend Mirek on CNC. They were patiently waiting for their turn.
 
If someone is looking for blocks (I hope admin don't mind if i past the link ?? 🤔)

http://www.szkutnik-model.pl/index.php/elementy-drewniane/bloczki-jufersy-serca
 
@SZKUTNIK has them now available on his online shop.
 
 
Cheers,
Matt