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DB789

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  1. DB789
    Hi Craig, you’re welcome!
  2. DB789
    Ken, I had some difficulty shaping those mizzen PE step blocks too and narrowly avoided breaking one. If your Alert is v3 not v2 then you may find that the PE cannon straps are not needed as it is incorporated into the wooden side of cannon’s carriage. Photo below is from Grecian, but it’s the same setup.
  3. DB789
    Thanks Chris, The photo was my test fitting - held on by hand and a single pin. I quickly realised that I needed to sand the bowsprit area and did so before any soaking or glueing. It wasn’t my final position for it. Sorry I should have been clearer above. In step 73 the instructions suggest soaking the bulwark as an option instead of scoring the bottom of the bulwark to bend around the bulkheads. I felt more comfortable soaking than scoring and cracking the wood. The rest of the curves are indeed very slight.
  4. DB789
    It’s bound to be something I’ve done wrong. Not sure what though, I drew lines marking the bottom of the slot of every bulkhead to ensure they were seated properly. I also checked that the deck was located exactly into each ear. The bowing was only very slight, but I needed to clamp it to ensure that there was contact for the PVA.
  5. DB789
    You’re very welcome! I’ll be sticking close to what Jim built in the prototype, but without anything like the same level of experience or skill.
  6. DB789
    Next, the deck is added. As for the fishing boats it slots nicely into grooves at the base of the bulkhead ears. There’s a separate section of deck at the stern which slots in too. Very neat. This is the point where diluted PVA needs to be added to all the joints in the structure. There’s still a small amount of bowing in the middle of the deck so it needs to be held down whilst the needs to be glue sets. I did this using small clamps through the hatch openings. The structures on the stern are then built up out MDF pieces and further pieces of MDF added under the stern deck to strengthen it and provide a base for the lower counter. At the bow a piece with a hole for the bowsprit is added as are both sets of parts 23 and 24 on the cheeks either side of the bow. Once the glue is set, it’s time to fair the hull. This is pretty straightforward, her lines are sleek and there are no difficult curves. I have tested planks lying across the bulkheads multiple times and looking good. What I don’t do initially is fair the top of the bow where the piece of wood with the bowsprit hole is. Jumping onto step 69 that myxyzptlyk2003 refers to in James H’s blog, there isn’t a photo of this in the instructions - but trial and error (photo below) shows that this needs fairing too and can be seen in the Step 115 as myxyz says. Once faired, I test fit the middle bulwark pattern again and then soak it in hot water so I can bend it around the curve of the hull astern. The bulwark is clamped and pinned and to dry, waiting to be glued once it’s dried out. Jim warns us in the instructions that the gun port arches are not strong. I can confirm that they are not. I broke two of them off the middle bulwark on the starboard side whilst attaching the port bulwark. Once the wood had dried out I glued them back on cleanly using PVA. Furthermore I somehow broke an arch on one of the outer patterns. I didn’t realise this had happened and the part is long gone. I tried to make a replacement archway, but realised my skills aren’t sufficient to make it look good on an outer piece! So I have resorted to ordering a replacement from Chris.
  7. DB789
    This is the shaped stern bulkhead. Then I make a mistake which I only realise later, but seems inconsequential. I should have added additional longitudinal beams (parts 33) to brace the aft bulkheads but somehow I missed them despite them being clearly there in the instructions. Instead I went straight for the sub-deck which comes in two pieces. The bow is then built up. The laser cutting of the MDF is wafer thin, I didn’t realise you would be able to cut MDF so thin. Yes I broke one of the slots but that’s me being clumsy. Beams are added across the hull, further adding to the strength of the already very strong structure.
  8. DB789
    Thanks Jim, I’ll make more effort to get the photos in the correct orientation. I do most, if not all, of my posting on MSW using a work provided iPhone or laptop which I don’t have admin rights to install a programme on - such as the excellent photo resizer you sent me a link to. Wish I could use it.
  9. DB789
    Thanks Andrew, wish I wasn’t and had more build photos to refer to! The instructions and prototype build log are excellent, but having more photos from different angles also helps.
  10. DB789
    This first stage of construction is where Vanguard’s better design just comes into its own. The process for building the ‘skeleton’ of her hull is just so clever and well thought out, avoiding the alignment and warping risks I read about so often with kits from other manufacturers. Firstly, the bulkheads are slotted onto the false keel, but not glued. Then another piece is slotted on each side of the keel, locking down the bulkheads. As soon as this is done, the structure starts to strengthen. MDF tabs are then pushed through holes in all three keel pieces ensuring that these, and the bulkheads are absolutely aligned. Then the sub-deck is fitted and also held in place with tabs. Further strengthening the structure. Then the aft bulkhead is built up, ready to be faired. I need to shape this next, but the glue needs to set overnight. Once that is done I’ll add it to the hull with additional longitudinal bracing parts. Once those are in the structure will be rock solid, completely aligned and ready for glue.
  11. DB789
    I should be finishing off the last tweaks on Alert, but I couldn’t resist starting Vanguard’s Grecian at the same time. Other than JamesH who builds the prototype and provides an excellent build log too, I think I’m the first to do a build log on this kit, so I’ll try and provide a bit more detail than I did on Alert. The kit came very promptly via UPS and extremely well packaged in a robust, well designed box. Inside the box there’s a large range of laser cut wooden and MDF sheets. Except for the decks the wood is all pear. The laser cut on these sheets is incredibly clean and precise. Not all the sheets are shown below. There’s also a box of fixtures including high quality resin cannon. There’s copper tape for the hull, a resin cutter, 3 sheets of photo etch, box of thread for the rigging, pear and lime planking strips, dowels, Vanguard’s standard but brilliant colour building manual full of step by step photos and instructions, eleven large plan sheets, and a clear acetate cradle for the completed build. I went for all the extras too, so I bought the Grecian paint set, American flag, pear block set and PE copper plate set (not sure yet if I’ll use this or the tape - whichever is easier I suspect). It is all absolutely excellent quality. This will be my seventh Vanguard build and the first time that one of the parts came broken - a dowel. I messaged Chris and within a day or two he’d sent me a replacement. Amazing customer service. There’s one other tiny error in the instructions that in the inventory there’s a sheet of 0.1mm PE listed that wasn’t included. I asked Chris and he tells me that this was for copper sheet to face the rudder, but he couldn’t obtain the copper so it’s not needed for the build. I was curious how big the completed Grecian would be. So here is Nisha and Alert against a plan of her deck. She makes Nisha look tiny. And is bigger than Alert, but by less than I had expected. Cant wait to get building her!
  12. DB789
    Thanks Craigie, idea stolen entirely from James H’s Grecian prototype!
  13. DB789
    Thank you, not as good of your Alert though - I certainly don’t have your patience or painting skills….
  14. DB789
    Thanks so much. I’m still in awe of your Nisha.
  15. DB789
    Thanks Jeremy, I’m enjoying your Pen Duick build too. I’ve not decked a boat yet!
  16. DB789
    Thanks Chris, much appreciated. I’ve switched the title back to unfinished as I’ll be tidying up the ropes for a week or two yet. I’ll post some closer ups of the deck then. Hope that’s ok? Dan
  17. DB789
    Alert is now almost complete. Just some rope coils to add to where lines are belayed (cover up some of the CA holding the lines in place!). Here are some photos, as it may be a few weeks before I complete the rope coils - one of my least favourite tasks. The ensign is from BECC, dipped into a fabric stiffening solution and then hung with crocodile clips to try to get it to droop. Only partially successful as it’s not very high quality and the fabric is quite thick, especially where it folds over. Didn’t quite achieve the look James H did on Grecian’s flag. The American Vanguard ensign that came with Grecian looks much better quality, but the Vanguard British ensigns are too big for a little cutter like Alert. The rigging became more complicated and challenging on the doing yards for the first time. I think that I have interpreted the rigging instructions correctly, but I may have too many lines going forward on the bowsprit. I have bought both the Petersson books on rigging which are very useful, but the section on the English cutter has simpler rigging on its two yards vs. Alert’s four. Overall, Alert has been a lovely ship to build - quite challenging at times after the fishing boats - but very rewarding. I’m very happy with the end result. Chris - thanks again for another excellent kit.
  18. DB789
    Thank you
  19. DB789
    Bowsprit rigging complete except for the bowlines to the yards. Main and driver booms rigged plus the spreadsail yard. That just leaves the following: three more yards, the anchors and refitting the swivel guns. Plus some touching up of paint. Inspired by the American flag added to Grecian by James H, I’ve bought a period white ensign from BECC for Alert and will attempt to get it to hang as elegantly. It’s not as crisply printed or as good quality as the Grecian’s American flag, but at 12 x 7 cm I think the Vanguard ensigns would be too big for a little ship like Alert.
  20. DB789
    Craigie - thanks for the great recommendation, I’ve ordered the Rigging Period Model Ships book. I’m a few builds yet away from Speedy / Flirt. Gregory - thanks I’ll likely order the Fore-and-Aft book too. I see that it has a section on an American schooner which could be useful for Grecian. From my time sailing modern fire and aft rigged yachts I broadly understand the fore and aft part of the rig on Alert, but much less the squaresails on her mast. Nils - thank you for the encouragement!
  21. DB789
    Thank you! Yes it’s a very satisfying stage on Alert as the rigging isn’t too complex. One of my next builds will hopefully be Vanguard’s Flirt or Speedy - but I look at the forest of rigging on for example Dfell’s superb recently completed Flirt build and it’s pretty intimidating on a ship that isn’t that much bigger than Alert. I wonder - is the larger Sphinx actually easier to rig than Speedy / Flirt? Sphinx is the ship I’d like to build but not sure I’ve got sufficient skills yet to do it justice.
  22. DB789
    Ratlines and backstays now complete. The two forestays that run to the stem post also in place. Rigging fairly straightforward so far, although there’s plenty I need to improve in terms of technique. One thing I learnt on this build, which gave me better ratlines than on my fishing boats was to tie all the ratlines in place with no glue, just lots of clove hitches and then adjust them all and tighten them when complete and before any glue. I’m sure that’s obvious to any experienced builder on MSW, but it wasn’t for me. I also made the mistake of adding the shroud cleats before the ratlines - thought it would be easier - then struggled to get the lower two ratlines on each side straight. Time to rig the bowsprit next. Hope to finish her by the end of next week.
  23. DB789
    Thanks Craigie, I’ve temporarily stripped off anything loose that I might get in the way of the rigging such as cannons, swivel guns, pumps, etc. Mast is added and all the spars and booms made, although still some blocks to add to these. Bowsprit ready too although I forgot to include it in these photos. I didn’t like the idea of shaping and tapering all of these using a drill as my experience of tapering with a drill is that I quite often break something. So I’ve added a Proxxon mini lathe to the toolkit. Made the spars and mast so much easier. I added the forward four shrouds on each side as these are those that need ratlines. Below I have added the starboard ratlines and afterwards the fifth shroud. Port just the front four shrouds. No ratlines yet. In the meantime, Vanguard’s Grecian has turned up and is waiting to be built. She looks to be a fine model as I’ve come to expect from Chris. I had planned to build Ranger next to complete the set of six Vanguard fishing boats, but I suspect I’ll dive straight into Grecian.
  24. DB789
    Thanks Jim!
  25. DB789
    She looks fantastic. Does anyone know a good beginners resource or a log on here on how to copper a ship’s hull? In particular, how do you get the waterline cut straight? I’m very keen to build Grecian, but I need to master coppering. Many thanks Dan

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