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allanyed

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Everything posted by allanyed

  1. LOL Thanks Allan. These are great drawings and I have bookmarked the Architectura Navalis Mercatoria Stockholm, 1768 website. One thing that jumped out at me is in plate XVI top left. The wale appears to be a layer on top of the planking, or, the planking below the wale has pointed ends that I thought were not acceptable by any nation. The index of these drawings calls these merchant ships. Could the planking methods be different in nature than British naval vessels? Allan
  2. When using tape to mark a line on wood, it is not so easy to keep some leakage or feathering from occurring. Sometimes it is a good idea to apply the tape then paint a seal along the edge with an appropriate clear coat. Once dry it seals the edge, then paint as normal. It usually saves a lot of touching up. Allan
  3. HI Dave Looks like it is too late for this project, but for the future you might want to try printing the plans on sheets of label paper, then you can cut out the pieces, peel off the back, and stick on the wood. MUCH easier than cementing paper to wood. If you only have preprinted paper plans rather than plans on your computer, a flash drive or similar device, the paper version can be scanned on most home printers then printed on the label paper. Allan
  4. There is a great little book by David Antscherl from SeaWatch Books for $5 on how to make realistic sails using silkspan. https://seawatchbooks.com/products/swan-iv-sail-making-supplement-from-the-revised-and-expanded-edition-by-david-antscherl Allan
  5. I may be totally incorrect about your particular pieces but they look like mass produced decorator models, many of which are made in Asia. https://gonautical.com/america-s-cup-sailboat-models/2484-1930-s-shamrock-v-america-s-cup-j-class-sailboat-model-large-open-hull.html and https://www.everythingnautical.com/shamrock-open-hull-model-ship-46-optional-personalized-plaque/ for examples. If you contact these suppliers they may be able to give you more details on location of the factory where they are made. Yours look to be much nicer than many of the old European decorator pieces made in the mid 20th century that we see posted here at MSW pretty often. Allan
  6. Your model continues to show exemplary workmanship. Well done.😀 A question, hope that is ok as this is a new one for me. It is in regards to the item marked with a question mark on the photo below. Neither the 1784 64 gun version nor the 1794 plans of the razeed 44 gun design show this nor have I ever seen this on any contemporary drawing or model. Do you know what it is called and the purpose of this piece? Thanks ECK Allan
  7. It is always good to cross reference contemporary based information with any modern instructions. If this is Greyhound 1720 the guns at the time she was launched would be Borgard pattern with the George I cypher but I am curious to know which pattern they included in the kit. With your 3D printing skills, making your own of the appropriate pattern should be doable as the STL drawings are readily available. Allan
  8. Bonjour Moura, You should start a post in the plans section here at MSW as you are looking for plans for the Mamoli model Brittania, not the metal called britannia. More members will see your post there than here. https://modelshipworld.com/forum/13-discussions-for-ships-plans-and-project-research-general-research-on-specific-vessels-and-ship-types/ Did you contact the owner at Mamoli to get a set of plans? With the fire seven years ago, most everything was lost but Daniel Dusek is a member here and you can PM him to see if there are still any plans. https://modelshipworld.com/topic/13542-mamoli-model-kits-are-back/ Allan
  9. That is a great attitude Ross. A quote to be used by all of us at times. Allan
  10. Welcome to MSW Antonio. You officially have over 43,000 new friends and helpers. Allan
  11. Even more useful may be the home made mini wooden carpenter clamps that Ed Tosti describes here at MSW as well as in his books on the Naiad. https://modelshipworld.com/topic/232-hms-naiad-by-edt-160-frigate-38-1797-finished/#comment-2879 Post #19. I believe there is information somewhere by others as well on how to make them, including https://modelshipworld.com/topic/32386-hms-winchelsea-by-tedrobinson2000-148/#comment-929601 post #14. They are easy to make in any size. Allan
  12. Hi Bill Never heard of scubbers, are you sure these are not scuppers (holes that are often lined with metal such as lead from which water drains)? Painting occurred after they were installed so I would imagine that whatever the paint color was on the hull would have covered the scupper flanges as well. What vessel? Allan
  13. Dean, Getting way off topic here but if you are going to rig the 74, there are a number of high res drawings of yards and masts circa 1778-1780 on the Wiki Commons site for a 74. FYI there is also a detailed drawing of the elm pumps. PM if you cannot find them and I can email them to you. Allan
  14. Hi Patrick, The first one resembles an older J class or similar racing yacht. I may be way off base on this, but I am sure there are members here that can give better information.. The second one is identified as the Bluenose, but if you do some research on her you will see the overall shape, deck housings and furniture look different than the actual Bluenose. Still, both look to be rather nice decorator pieces for your home. You may want to consider putting them in cases to keep off the dust and keep them away from any direct sunlight if you want them to last. Allan
  15. Thanks Mark, I love dogwoods and it is a shame about the die off in your area, On the plus side it appears you have a nice supply of a wood that is working well! Allan
  16. This is a new one for me. Is the wood in the photo stained or is that the natural color? Any other applications for dogwood that you would recommend? Thanks! Allan
  17. Dean, I don't know if these will help but there are high resolution drawings of the framing of Vengence (74) 1774, Venerable (74) 1784, and Revenge (74) 1805 on the Wiki Commons site of plans (https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Ship_plans_of_the_Royal_Museums_Greenwich ) . I set up a file of the 800 or so high res drawings from the site with subfolders by ship size. I added key drawings in some subfolders from elsewhere in low res if they were missing on the Wiki site as well as contracts where I could find them. I wanted to have these available for all members in the articles data base or elsewhere but the file is 45GB so apparently cannot be done. Attached is a contract of a 74 from 1781 that may shed some light as framing is described in some detail in general and the top timbers in more detail on pages 7 and 9. Hope this helps at least a little. Allan 74 gun 1781.docx
  18. Dean, Are you referring just to the Unicorn mentioned above? If so does the framing drawing help? https://www.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/rmgc-object-81761 Martes, this is important and it did change over time. The thicknesses of the wales and planking above and below varied with size of ship and era even within just the English Navy. Examples below show the variation from the 1719 Establishment through the scantlings given by Steel. Additional details can be found in various contracts as well. Allan
  19. From the above photo there appear to be no wales at all. Another photo is below looking similar to the photo you posted Martes. A planking expansion ZAZ2156 that RMG Collections has for Unicorn 1824, Latona 1821, Diana 1822, et al, shows what appears to be wales with anchor stock planking so the planking in the photos may be from refurbishing in later years. Any ideas? The description at RMG does mention it shows alterations for Latona, Diana, and Fox and they give a date of 1820-3; March 1823 Allan
  20. Thanks Philip, I forgot about Grainger. We used to buy from them in the distant past but their prices are much higher than MC for some things. I just checked now on bits and for example, a #80 high speed jobber bit from MC is $5.29 and from Grainger it is between $7 and $9. Allan
  21. Hi Martes, I totally agree with you. It seems that very little in ship building in those days, and perhaps more modern times as well, should be taken as universal, especially across national borders. My fault for not mentioning I was originally only referring to English ship build logs where the overly thick wale is a predominant feature. Allan
  22. Why not use any of a number of great wood glues? There has been a good bit of discussion here at MSW in recent weeks on the virtues of various glues, but contact cement does not seem to have any advantages for ship modeling, even if it is suggested by at least one kit manufacturer. Of course it is your choice in the end, but consider reading the many posts about the plusses and minuses of various glues before getting "stuck" with one that does not work for you. Allan
  23. I agree! Too many times we see models with the garboard running much too far forward and up onto the stem area. Allan
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