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allanyed
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allanyed reacted to Bob Cleek in Which kit for beginner-friendly kit that's 1:64, Double-planked, Square-Rigged and Pointed Bow and notionally British?
Then, perhaps you should read that thread about how to get started in this hobby again.
The Model Shipways beginner's series produces some very nice models which don't take forever to build. If they are built with care, they are great accent pieces to display. If you can't imagine the joy and satisfaction of building a small boat, then maybe what you are really enthusiastic about is just having a nice big model ship to display, in which case you should buy one already built. Collecting built models is a satisfying part of the hobby for some, as well. The secret to building good models is to "Do the common thing uncommonly well over and over again." Trying to do an uncommon thing before you master the common one will throw a wet blanket on your enthusiasm quicker than anything else.
The enthusiasm you are drumming up for building any of the kits you've mentioned is easy to do... before you start. Last chance: Listen to what the guys who've gone before you are saying. "Over and out."
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allanyed got a reaction from mtaylor in Ship’s boats with engines
Welcome to MSW George. Is this boat for the steam yacht Greta, 1895 or some other vessel and year? In what country was she built? Finding an appropriate motor driven ship's boat might be a bit easier with a little more information. There are a lot of designs I found on the internet including the one below of a 30 foot boat of 1911 but it may be totally inappropriate in design. If you have not already contacted the folks at the the Royal National Lifeboat Institution, they may have some useful information in their archives. https://rnli.org/about-us/our-history/archive-and-library
Allan
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allanyed reacted to tmj in HMS Victory Cross Section by tmj - Corel -1:98
No, there are actually 4 steps, which is still a really tall step (around 20" between steps). That's what comes with the kit. I suppose that sailors had longer legs back then than they do today! 😗
There are a 'lot' of problems with this model. When I bought this, I had no real direction. I just wanted to build a ship model that looked good. Historical accuracy was not a part of the plan. That changed and I now have something that will 'never' be correct. I'm now using it as a training aid to hone some skills for my next project. My next project 'WILL' have a more proper, historically accurate direction to follow. My current plan with this kit bash is to simply do the best I can do, with what I have to work with. I want the model to look nice when all is said and done, but I don't want to put too much effort into making corrections. I just want to get 'er done and move on to something with a more promising future. Everyone has to start somewhere. This is my start...
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allanyed got a reaction from Harry12 in Calculating rope thickness (Fictional ship)
The model you show is really well done and if you want black rope go for it. You can always just get tan rope and stain it with India ink or wood stain. India ink is acidic so wood stains may be better. Hopefully other members will have suggestions of stains that are appropriate. Keep in mind that the ship is fictional and the model they made is not accurate in some respects. For example it shows belaying pins which were not prevalent until much later in the 18th century. In the end, do what makes you happiest, this is a hobby after all.
Allan
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allanyed got a reaction from Dave_E in HMS Pegasus 1776 by Knocklouder - Amati/Victory Models - 1:64
If you wind up doing a hull without copper or just leave it plain wood for any reason, there usually are no stealers at the bow, but there were sometimes drop strakes. There were times when stealers were used aft which were to fill an open space where as the drop strakes forward were used because of too little space. Hope this makes sense.
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allanyed got a reaction from tmj in HMS Victory Cross Section by tmj - Corel -1:98
Do the kit ladders all have only three steps? The distance between the orlop deck planks to the top of the lower gun deck planking is about 80".
Thanks
Allan
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allanyed got a reaction from dunnock in HMS Indefatigable 1794 by Kevin - FINISHED - Vanguard Models - 1:64 - Feb 2023 to June 2025
Your work looks great to me. I think most/all of us at MSW hope to improve with experience so you are part of a huge team of like minded enthusiasts.
Allan
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allanyed got a reaction from mtaylor in HMS Indefatigable 1794 by Kevin - FINISHED - Vanguard Models - 1:64 - Feb 2023 to June 2025
Nice looking boat!
Maybe something you would like for your files ,boat scantlings PDF is attached below. These are circa 1800 and there were small variations over time so the dimensions are not cast in stone.
From W.E. May
Allan
Boat Scantlings 1-28-14.pdf
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allanyed got a reaction from mtaylor in HMS Victory Cross Section by tmj - Corel -1:98
Do the kit ladders all have only three steps? The distance between the orlop deck planks to the top of the lower gun deck planking is about 80".
Thanks
Allan
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allanyed got a reaction from mtaylor in Calculating rope thickness (Fictional ship)
Harry. I calculated the diameter at 1.81 inches then scaled it to 1:48
1.81/48=0.0377. IF your scale is something else, just divide the 1.81 by the scale you are using then convert to metric if you prefer metric.
Allan
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allanyed got a reaction from mtaylor in Calculating rope thickness (Fictional ship)
The model you show is really well done and if you want black rope go for it. You can always just get tan rope and stain it with India ink or wood stain. India ink is acidic so wood stains may be better. Hopefully other members will have suggestions of stains that are appropriate. Keep in mind that the ship is fictional and the model they made is not accurate in some respects. For example it shows belaying pins which were not prevalent until much later in the 18th century. In the end, do what makes you happiest, this is a hobby after all.
Allan
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allanyed got a reaction from mtaylor in Calculating rope thickness (Fictional ship)
Dark brown is realistic. IF tarred rope was used it would have been pine resin or something similar and the color would be dark brown, never black. Kits often include black which is not correct in the majority, or perhaps all, cases. 17th century models often had untarred rope on the standing rigging so the era is something to consider. If you are staying with the 18th century rigging, dark brown is the way to go, not black.
Allan
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allanyed got a reaction from mtaylor in Calculating rope thickness (Fictional ship)
I am pretty sure you have nothing more to do other than start the program by hitting the enter data button at the top, but you put the two dimensions in the first rate box. Your ship is closer to a fifth or sixth rate. I have no idea if the results would actually change.
Long hand using the ratios in Lees
(88+26)/2=57
57/3= 19 so the mast diameter is 19 inches
The circumference of the main stay is 0.5X 19=9.5"
The circumference of the shroud is 9.5X 0.6 =5.7"
The diameter/thickness is 5.7/3.14159= 1.81"
At a scale of 1:48 it is 0.0377" or 0.96mm so 1mm should do well for you if you are building to 1:48 scale.
The diameter for the foremast will be smaller and for the mizzen smaller still. For the foremast most people would not notice if you use the same diameter as for the foremast.
For buying rope, where are you located?
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allanyed got a reaction from Old Collingwood in HMS Indefatigable 1794 by Kevin - FINISHED - Vanguard Models - 1:64 - Feb 2023 to June 2025
Nice looking boat!
Maybe something you would like for your files ,boat scantlings PDF is attached below. These are circa 1800 and there were small variations over time so the dimensions are not cast in stone.
From W.E. May
Allan
Boat Scantlings 1-28-14.pdf
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allanyed reacted to Thukydides in HMS Speedy by Theodosius - Vanguard Models - 1:64
That is how I feel about most of my work. But to make matters worse, the better you get at it the higher your standards get, so it is a never ending cycle of disatisfaction 😃.
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allanyed reacted to Gregory in How to create a Galeone Livorno window in wood, year 1606
What are the dimensions of your brass piece?
Do you plan on using the outside of the frame, and just replace the small square panes?
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allanyed got a reaction from Harry12 in Calculating rope thickness (Fictional ship)
I am pretty sure you have nothing more to do other than start the program by hitting the enter data button at the top, but you put the two dimensions in the first rate box. Your ship is closer to a fifth or sixth rate. I have no idea if the results would actually change.
Long hand using the ratios in Lees
(88+26)/2=57
57/3= 19 so the mast diameter is 19 inches
The circumference of the main stay is 0.5X 19=9.5"
The circumference of the shroud is 9.5X 0.6 =5.7"
The diameter/thickness is 5.7/3.14159= 1.81"
At a scale of 1:48 it is 0.0377" or 0.96mm so 1mm should do well for you if you are building to 1:48 scale.
The diameter for the foremast will be smaller and for the mizzen smaller still. For the foremast most people would not notice if you use the same diameter as for the foremast.
For buying rope, where are you located?
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allanyed got a reaction from KurtH in HMS Pegasus 1776 by Knocklouder - Amati/Victory Models - 1:64
If you wind up doing a hull without copper or just leave it plain wood for any reason, there usually are no stealers at the bow, but there were sometimes drop strakes. There were times when stealers were used aft which were to fill an open space where as the drop strakes forward were used because of too little space. Hope this makes sense.
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allanyed reacted to Gregory in Calculating rope thickness (Fictional ship)
Harry12,
I wouldn't be obsessed with precisely following the establishments for 17th century ship rigging.
There is always the rule of " what looks good, is good " ..
Take a look at some of the contemporary models in the gallery here..
Gallery of Contemporary Models from Museums and Private Collections
Try to maintain a sense of proportion. The standing rigging will be heavier on larger masts, and will get smaller the higher up on the masts.
For the running rigging; heavier on the larger yards, and getting lighter as it goes higher.
The rat lines are probably the smallest ropes, and something modelers often make too large.
I like to go to Chuck's Cheerful as a great example of rigging that looks proportional.
While your three masted ship will have a lot more lines, the principles of look and proportion will remain the same.
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allanyed reacted to druxey in Transom drawing question
And it's nice to connect with like-minded folk who like to research and explore!
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allanyed reacted to Pirate adam in Transom drawing question
Thank you druxey and Allan. I am thrilled to get inputs from people with so much experience in this area. Something that blows me away about this hobby is that there are even 3 people on earth that care enough about such an obscure subject to spend time thinking about it on a Saturday morning.
I agree that I think this is almost a case of too many references available for one ship. I will go with the contemporary drawing which is consistent with the drawings available online and from the NMM for Crocodile as well as Pelican, Hyeana, and Eurydice.
I am blown away by the clarity and beauty of the actual prints from the NMM. I have both Crocodile and HMS Zebra 1777 as well as the Swan books (and the Euryalus books 😀), so I won't be running out of modeling subjects anytime soon.
Adam
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allanyed got a reaction from Mark P in Transom drawing question
In the scantlings in The Elements and Practice of Naval Architecture by Steel, Folio IV, it gives a total of four transoms with dimensions for a 24 gun ship. These include the wing, deck and two filling transoms for a 24 gun ship so match up with the contemporary plans of Porcupine, Crocodile, Squirrel, Pelican, Syren, and others. Where did you find Steel showing five transoms for a 24? In the Steel scantlings that I have, the smallest ship with five transoms is a 38. I would go with Steel scantlings and the contemporary plans rather than a modern publication. I looked at 28's and the ones I studied all had two transoms between the wing and deck and one filling transom below the deck transom. Larger ships, but not enough for an extra transom???
Allan
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