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Well, what can I say more than this will be my first wooden ship model. So, I'm afraid, this will be more importend for me, to get any possible help, than for you with anything interesting new. Perhaps I can make some 'new' errors *g


Why Speedy?


I have another kit, but never started do build it. It is a collectible kit, and the more I get, the more I was dissapointed about it's quality, so never started it. But it was not only the quality of the parts, the more time I spend with it, the less appealing it was for me, because it don't look 'right' to me any more.  Spend lots of money for nothing. Lessen lerned: spend more time in research!


So I read more and more, and at last, I arrived at the Vanguard models. Not the cheapest, but I think here you become the most bang for the bugs, imo well worth every penny, even though I had to pay another 20% taxes for importing it.

Again, why Speedy? First, looking realy good. Then it's small, that is importend for a first timer, I think, to not run out of motivation when the problems accure, and I'm sure, they will come. And last, what I saw about this kit, it seems to me as it is well constructed, and that there is not a single place, where the 'red-pencil'(?) of saving many toked place. I like that, realy!


And then, here are a lot of stunning builds of this model, which provide a ton of additional information, that's why I created a new account here.

First: many thank's to Chris from Vanguard models for sending it so fast! I was very pleased about the speed, quality of the kit and the realy nice contact!

Started with Thomas Cochrane. Damn, this is a small boy! Reading about his life, I thought, he must be much bigger... 🙂

My respect to everyone who has achieved a good painting job on him.


Here's what I had done on him so far:






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  • ccoyle changed the title to HMS Speedy by Theodosius - Vanguard Models - 1:64

I do fear you will be another  builder who will quickly overtake me - its quite galling !

 I had one of the first Speedy kits  and some are finishing them off while I am still doing first planking !!


But the fun is in building I always say  !!


Nice paint job on Cochrane !

Edited by SpyGlass
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@SpyGlass: thank you very much for leaving a comment here :-).

Well, I think this is nither a competition nor a race ;-), only importent thing can be the joy of the building process itself, as you say! 🙂

First parts glued together, the stand:



Bulkheads prepared and set together:



Together with the decks:





Panorama view:



Funny to see, what skills I have to develop. I mean, it is not so easy to hold work the sanding tool of choice exactly square to the part. I see, I have a very long way to go...


So I'm still workin on the easy steps. Nothing glued jet, bar the stand, of course. Until here, it all fits nice together. The decks makes the bulkeads automatic square, but I will do some minir filing/sanding, so that the bulkeads are square to the keel even without the decks.


I read the whole instruction severel times now, and of course I have a question early in the modeling:

I understand why there nees to be a bevel on the bulkheads, and it also makes sense to me, that it is easier to get the bulk of it done before the first frames are includet, but how much?

In the other build-logs one can read: it's never enough, but be careful with the mdf.

When you are familar with this process, it is perhaps not difficult, and it is possible to repair everything, but the first time bilder I am, I'm afraid to damage something and do to much.


What would be great, would be a marking-line on the bulkheads, where it shows how far into the side one have to sand it down.

Perhaps that could be an idear for an beginner-improvement to the kit. I'm sure, the veterans are now loughing about me :-).


Thanks all for lookin in :-).


Edited by Theodosius
problems with the picture links...
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Well done on a good start and good choice of kit.


I think some kits do come with a hairline indication where to sand down to. And I think at least one of the Vanguard models I have does have those markings, at least where the planking approaches the bow and stern. I'm not in the shipyard at the moment so can't check.


I wouldn't sand down exactly to those lines until I got to the planking stage...maybe leave 0.5+mm spare on the bulkheads so you have some meat to play with when fine tuning the contact between the planks and the bulkheads.



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@Rik Thistle: thank's for your nice words :-)! Yes, the kit is great to build! I'm realy happy to buy a Vanguard kit and nothing else for my first time build.
Unfortunatly, there are no marks on the frames, but they would be of great help for me :-). 


Parts fit realy well, so it is a lot of fun to build.

But I think I'm the first here to manage breaking on of the longitudinal stringers:




Dos'nt matter in the end.

What I realy struggle with is this: beveling of the first frames without any hint how far this has to got!

I realy would appreciate a kind of marking line on the frames or the planes! Ok, perhaps only for the first time builder I am, but nevertheless :-).

This is, what I have done so far, I hope, I did'nt overdo this allready...




And an overwiev of the whole thing so far:




Thank's again for all your great support! 🙂

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Sorry if I mislead you about the markings. I was sure either my VM Flirt or Fifie had some indicator lines on them. Anyway, James build of HMS Flirt ....

 (which is very similar to Speedy) has good pics of the amount of sanding required and where it is mainly needed - see his post #14.


Stringers - yeah, I think I broke one also but PVA'd it back together and it was fine.


All the best,




PS:  I've just had a read of the downloadable .pdf for my Flirt manual at   https://vanguardmodels.co.uk/product/hms-flirt-standard-edition/    ...and pg7, pic 13 says ...

" A small number of parts must now be bevelled before installation. These parts have engraving lines etched on them. Bevel bulkheads 2 and 3 that you previously removed from the MDF sheet, and also the two Bow Pattern Inner parts (17) and the two Bow Pattern Outer parts (18). These can be bevelled using either sandpaper, files or a rotary tool. For the prototype, we used a Dremel set on a safe 9000 rpm"


So some of the bulkhead parts do have thin engraving lines (guidelines) for bevelling on them, at least on Flirt.  And I've had a quick scan of the Speedy .pdf and it doesn't mention guidlines. Flirt was a released after Speedy so perhaps the guidlines were a new addition?


Edited by Rik Thistle
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If you have a look at my log you will find some sort of guidance and pics as to what i did. 


( have you got keel and Bulkheads made of MDF or ply)


Because the hull fits together so well i found you can actually shape parts off build  and keep fitting it back on the build to check just working dry

Dont forget the pattern blocks as i did!!


Its a good idea to mark the after edge of the forward Bulkheads and the forward ends of the aft Bulk heads with a black marker.

As long as you dont completely sand off those lines you cant go completely wrong.

And my other golden rule - when you are  absolutely sure have finished fairing the  BHs - you need to do a bit more at stem and stern !!!



Oh and a tip on the pattern block - which applies to many kits.

If you get the bottom shaping wrong - you can just drop the block a few mm and do it again  and again and...

The block does NOT have to sit up hard under the deck  !

Edited by SpyGlass
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