Supplies of the Ship Modeler's Handbook are running out. Get your copy NOW before they are gone! Click on photo to order.
×
allanyed
-
Posts
8,149 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Reputation Activity
-
allanyed got a reaction from scrubbyj427 in USNA Museum 3D Tour
If anyone has an opportunity to visit, don't miss the chance. I was lucky to tour with Grant Walker on one of several visits (see photo I took below). Ed Tosti, Wayne Kempson and I carpooled to Preble and had a grand day.
Allan
-
allanyed reacted to AON in location of carronades on a RN 74 gun ship
Below is an image of the Goliath forecastle.
The red arrows are the locations of the 9 Pdrs even though the aft gun location has a rail drawn through it.
The blue arrow might be the location for the carronade.
There is one other possible location further aft where you see a similar gap between deadeyes which offers more room between guns than that of the blue arrow between the red arrows.
These two possibilities are speculation on my point.
-
allanyed got a reaction from mtaylor in location of carronades on a RN 74 gun ship
Hi Alan,
The short answer is that carronades did not always count for some time period. There were variations on the 74's from their inception to the American war, and again from the American war to the Napoleonic war so to be more specific, the date in which you are interested needs to be a bit more specific. Caruana goes into a lot detail across 7 or 8 pages as to numbers of each size gun and location for each time period, including the introduction of the Gover guns in volume 2 of The History of English Sea Ordnance. There are a lot of photos of contemporary models of 74s on the RMG site that might help.
Allan
-
allanyed got a reaction from AON in location of carronades on a RN 74 gun ship
Hi Alan,
The short answer is that carronades did not always count for some time period. There were variations on the 74's from their inception to the American war, and again from the American war to the Napoleonic war so to be more specific, the date in which you are interested needs to be a bit more specific. Caruana goes into a lot detail across 7 or 8 pages as to numbers of each size gun and location for each time period, including the introduction of the Gover guns in volume 2 of The History of English Sea Ordnance. There are a lot of photos of contemporary models of 74s on the RMG site that might help.
Allan
-
allanyed got a reaction from robert952 in USNA Museum 3D Tour
If anyone has an opportunity to visit, don't miss the chance. I was lucky to tour with Grant Walker on one of several visits (see photo I took below). Ed Tosti, Wayne Kempson and I carpooled to Preble and had a grand day.
Allan
-
allanyed got a reaction from thibaultron in USNA Museum 3D Tour
If anyone has an opportunity to visit, don't miss the chance. I was lucky to tour with Grant Walker on one of several visits (see photo I took below). Ed Tosti, Wayne Kempson and I carpooled to Preble and had a grand day.
Allan
-
allanyed got a reaction from Archi in USNA Museum 3D Tour
If anyone has an opportunity to visit, don't miss the chance. I was lucky to tour with Grant Walker on one of several visits (see photo I took below). Ed Tosti, Wayne Kempson and I carpooled to Preble and had a grand day.
Allan
-
allanyed reacted to Oldsalt1950 in Harvey 1847 by Schooners - Artesania Latina - 1:50 - Baltimore Clipper
Schooner, you are off to a good albeit rocky start to your build. You had a few problems but worked them out in quick order. We all ran into problems on our first kit build, it is all part of the learning curve. You will find as you progress through the build that some items will need to be worked out of order, so read ahead in the instructions to see what fits your building style. Read through some of the other Baltimore clipper logs here for help and inspiration, there are a number of different names but all are based on the clipper hull design.
-
allanyed got a reaction from mtaylor in USNA Museum 3D Tour
Thanks Brian,
Probably just me, but how do you get out of the lobby and onto the other floor level where all the models are? Their idea is great but I cannot figure how to get to where the good stuff is which I think was on a different floor lever, including the wood shop where they repair, etc.
Allan
-
allanyed got a reaction from thibaultron in USNA Museum 3D Tour
Thanks Brian,
Probably just me, but how do you get out of the lobby and onto the other floor level where all the models are? Their idea is great but I cannot figure how to get to where the good stuff is which I think was on a different floor lever, including the wood shop where they repair, etc.
Allan
-
allanyed got a reaction from BenD in To Sail, or Not to Sail...
Hammer
Look at some contemporary models and paintings of ships in drydock for repairs. They have no sails, often the upper masts are not in place, and sometimes the lower masts are unstepped depending on the amount and type of repairs. You could also build the hull on the building slip. There are many examples, both contemporary and modern, that you can see with a few minutes search. Don't go by the well known Underhill model from 1950 that has the ship on the building ways and fully rigged. Per RMG, that model was more of a lesson on building a model than accuracy of the the scene itself. Then again, this may be what you would like. 😀https://www.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/rmgc-object-68469
Other ideas
Ship under repair drawing:
Example of a contemporary model on the ways, from Preble Hall at the academy.
Old Buckler's Hard diorama located at Buckler's Hard museum
-
allanyed reacted to Roger Pellett in To Sail, or Not to Sail...
To build a great model, I believe that the builder needs to have an artistic vision of what the the finished model is going to look like before he/she starts. These can run the gamut from formal presentations with brass pedestals and a polished wood plinth to dioramas with the Ship in a natural setting.
IMHO, billowing sails do not enhance the appearance of a ship model in a formal presentation. Furled sails are a better choice and “bare poles” are the best. On the other hand, there are some very attractive models with full sails shown in a diorama setting.
Roger
-
allanyed got a reaction from Dave_E in To Sail, or Not to Sail...
As mentioned above, if you decide to go with sails, silk span or similar non-woven material is a great choice as cloth is totally unrealistic if you are interested in scale accuracy. If scale is not a concern for you and you want to use cloth, try to use super high thread count (TC) cloth material. Consider investing $7 and buying the sail making booklet by David Antscherl offered by SeaWatch Books. I understand it is currently sold out but the owner Michael may be able to give you info on when a reprint will be available. There are You Tube tutorials that give similar methods using SS.
Allan
-
allanyed got a reaction from Cathead in HM Schooner Ballahoo by GGibson - FINISHED - Caldercraft - 1:64
I really hope you don't mind but I disagree with Bob. I realize the average viewer would not notice or care. and some may call this nitpicking so please take it for what it's worth. I realize it is too late for this project, but something that you may find to be of interest for future builds. The gratings never have open sides, and the battens run fore and aft, not athwartships. Also, the head ledges rest on the coamings not the other way around.
Picture and 1000 words etc. below.
-
allanyed got a reaction from mtaylor in To Sail, or Not to Sail...
Hammer
Look at some contemporary models and paintings of ships in drydock for repairs. They have no sails, often the upper masts are not in place, and sometimes the lower masts are unstepped depending on the amount and type of repairs. You could also build the hull on the building slip. There are many examples, both contemporary and modern, that you can see with a few minutes search. Don't go by the well known Underhill model from 1950 that has the ship on the building ways and fully rigged. Per RMG, that model was more of a lesson on building a model than accuracy of the the scene itself. Then again, this may be what you would like. 😀https://www.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/rmgc-object-68469
Other ideas
Ship under repair drawing:
Example of a contemporary model on the ways, from Preble Hall at the academy.
Old Buckler's Hard diorama located at Buckler's Hard museum
-
allanyed got a reaction from mtaylor in To Sail, or Not to Sail...
As mentioned above, if you decide to go with sails, silk span or similar non-woven material is a great choice as cloth is totally unrealistic if you are interested in scale accuracy. If scale is not a concern for you and you want to use cloth, try to use super high thread count (TC) cloth material. Consider investing $7 and buying the sail making booklet by David Antscherl offered by SeaWatch Books. I understand it is currently sold out but the owner Michael may be able to give you info on when a reprint will be available. There are You Tube tutorials that give similar methods using SS.
Allan
-
allanyed got a reaction from mtaylor in To Sail, or Not to Sail...
I tend to agree with these points for the most part - There is no cloth in existence that is to scale nor any sewing method for scales of 1:48 or smaller, and even 1:24 is a stretch. Non-woven materials can be used and look far better than cloth but they still block the view of much of the rigging. Like Steven mentions in his post, I have also done both, but I am of the school that in most cases sails ruin the look otherwise beautiful models. With the exception of when a client requires and pays for sails I never consider adding them. Just one opinion.
Allan
-
allanyed got a reaction from Canute in Shipwreck The Gloucester hailed most important since Mary Rose
Thank you very much for posting the link Kevin, it is a very interesting read.
Allan
-
allanyed got a reaction from DeHammer in To Sail, or Not to Sail...
As mentioned above, if you decide to go with sails, silk span or similar non-woven material is a great choice as cloth is totally unrealistic if you are interested in scale accuracy. If scale is not a concern for you and you want to use cloth, try to use super high thread count (TC) cloth material. Consider investing $7 and buying the sail making booklet by David Antscherl offered by SeaWatch Books. I understand it is currently sold out but the owner Michael may be able to give you info on when a reprint will be available. There are You Tube tutorials that give similar methods using SS.
Allan
-
allanyed got a reaction from mtaylor in Shipwreck The Gloucester hailed most important since Mary Rose
Thank you very much for posting the link Kevin, it is a very interesting read.
Allan
-
allanyed reacted to Dave_E in To Sail, or Not to Sail...
Hi Hammer,
There are a few things that you will find among ship builders. If you ask an equal number of builders about whether they want sails furled, under sail, or no sails, you will an unlimited number of opinions. This also applies to using ca glue, and using nails for planking.
Dig in with your research, study many build logs and then decide what you want to try and go for it. If you build one ship and you don’t like what happened, do it differently on your next.
Welcome aboard! 👍😀
-
allanyed reacted to ccoyle in To Sail, or Not to Sail...
Yup. I have done both with and without. Don't hesitate to add them if that's the look you like. The one recommendation I would make is to steer clear of pre-sewn sails as these rarely, if ever, look 'right'.
-
allanyed reacted to DennisL in To Sail, or Not to Sail...
I agree with Steven. I have built models with and without sails but prefer to show them with sails. The material I use is silkspan which I purchase thru Bluejacket. There are a number of tutorials on the website which show how to ue this material. It takes some experimentation but once mastered I think silkspan lends itself to realistic sails at scales of 1:48 and 1:64. Haven't tried anything in smaller scales. I try to show ships with partial sails furled and unfurled. This lends itself to more visibility of the rigging.
Of course if you have sails on your model you should probably show some figures on deck which is another kettle of fish to discuss....
Dennis
-
allanyed got a reaction from DeHammer in To Sail, or Not to Sail...
I tend to agree with these points for the most part - There is no cloth in existence that is to scale nor any sewing method for scales of 1:48 or smaller, and even 1:24 is a stretch. Non-woven materials can be used and look far better than cloth but they still block the view of much of the rigging. Like Steven mentions in his post, I have also done both, but I am of the school that in most cases sails ruin the look otherwise beautiful models. With the exception of when a client requires and pays for sails I never consider adding them. Just one opinion.
Allan
-
allanyed got a reaction from Keith Black in To Sail, or Not to Sail...
I tend to agree with these points for the most part - There is no cloth in existence that is to scale nor any sewing method for scales of 1:48 or smaller, and even 1:24 is a stretch. Non-woven materials can be used and look far better than cloth but they still block the view of much of the rigging. Like Steven mentions in his post, I have also done both, but I am of the school that in most cases sails ruin the look otherwise beautiful models. With the exception of when a client requires and pays for sails I never consider adding them. Just one opinion.
Allan
Our Emblem ®
