allanyed
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allanyed reacted to Gregory in Blocks: wood, card or 3D resin?
Here is one of my favorite references for making blocks from Mondfeld. I had just about got to the point of going forward with this method when Chuck started selling his blocks.
You can see that taking it down to very small size is possible.
If you have a small table saw, i.e., Proxxon, Byrnes, etc., it will really help with the grooves..
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allanyed reacted to giampieroricci in HMS PEGASUS by giampieroricci - Scale 1:36 - Swan-Class Sloop from plans by David Antscherl & Greg Herbert
that would be wonderful! We will be able to organise a meeting, perhaps together with Tiziano!
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allanyed got a reaction from giampieroricci in HMS PEGASUS by giampieroricci - Scale 1:36 - Swan-Class Sloop from plans by David Antscherl & Greg Herbert
Giampiero
I would love to see your model in person one day. I hope to see Tiziano's model of Euryalus the next time we are in Florence and it would be a thrill to see your model of Pegasus if you are not too far from Naples as we will there in 2025. BEAUTIFUL WORK!!
Allan
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allanyed got a reaction from billocrates in HMS PEGASUS by giampieroricci - Scale 1:36 - Swan-Class Sloop from plans by David Antscherl & Greg Herbert
Giampiero
I would love to see your model in person one day. I hope to see Tiziano's model of Euryalus the next time we are in Florence and it would be a thrill to see your model of Pegasus if you are not too far from Naples as we will there in 2025. BEAUTIFUL WORK!!
Allan
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allanyed got a reaction from Scottish Guy in Bending hard brass.
Hi Navarcus
Memory may not serve here, but from what I do recall from my marine engineering courses the type of engine had nothing to do with the diameter of the propellors. I sailed on steam ships as well as diesel propulsion with prop diameters up to about 19 feet. The azipods found on today's ships are upwards of 20 feet in diameter as well. There is a practical limit on the diameter no matter the type of propulsion which is possibly one of the reasons larger ships have multiple props.
Allan
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allanyed got a reaction from mtaylor in Blocks: wood, card or 3D resin?
There is an excellent explanation of a common/easy method of making wooden blocks with hand tools as well as their proportional dimensions in The Fully Framed Model Volume IV pp. 61-63. For tiny blocks (1.5mm and smaller) McCaffery goes into some detail in his book Ships in Miniature on making punches for making paper blocks.
Allan
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allanyed got a reaction from catopower in Blue holly: can it be saved?
Definitely worth a try Phil, but need to be careful to avoid------------->
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allanyed got a reaction from brunnels in HMS Beagle by brunnels - OcCre - 1:60 - first build
Truly a lovely build for a first go! One thing for the future or maybe you could change now --in your photos the blocks appear to be upside down. The line would go over the sheave and under the crown, not under the sheave and over the tail.
The below is from another build, but shows what I mean.
Allan
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allanyed got a reaction from Keith Black in HMS Beagle by brunnels - OcCre - 1:60 - first build
Truly a lovely build for a first go! One thing for the future or maybe you could change now --in your photos the blocks appear to be upside down. The line would go over the sheave and under the crown, not under the sheave and over the tail.
The below is from another build, but shows what I mean.
Allan
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allanyed got a reaction from BETAQDAVE in HMS Beagle by brunnels - OcCre - 1:60 - first build
Truly a lovely build for a first go! One thing for the future or maybe you could change now --in your photos the blocks appear to be upside down. The line would go over the sheave and under the crown, not under the sheave and over the tail.
The below is from another build, but shows what I mean.
Allan
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allanyed got a reaction from tlevine in Blocks: wood, card or 3D resin?
There is an excellent explanation of a common/easy method of making wooden blocks with hand tools as well as their proportional dimensions in The Fully Framed Model Volume IV pp. 61-63. For tiny blocks (1.5mm and smaller) McCaffery goes into some detail in his book Ships in Miniature on making punches for making paper blocks.
Allan
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allanyed got a reaction from druxey in Bending hard brass.
Angel,
It looks like your prop is in the wrong place or the diameter is too large. Is it possible to relocate the propellor shaft or go with a smaller diameter prop? Also, you can add a piece similar to the sketch below although it is probably not a good solution. If the ship had a wooden keel then this would work well and could also take a false keel across the entire length of the ship as well.
Can you tell us which vessel this is?
Thanks
Allan
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allanyed got a reaction from druxey in Blocks: wood, card or 3D resin?
There is an excellent explanation of a common/easy method of making wooden blocks with hand tools as well as their proportional dimensions in The Fully Framed Model Volume IV pp. 61-63. For tiny blocks (1.5mm and smaller) McCaffery goes into some detail in his book Ships in Miniature on making punches for making paper blocks.
Allan
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allanyed reacted to KLarsen in La Mahonesa by KLarsen - Scale 1/48 - stern cross-section
Some more progress. I've installed the wales, the lower one was difficult to bend at the stern but I got it done. I've also gone ahead and trimmed the frames to their (almost) correct height and made the cutouts for the upper gun emplacements (not shown on the first photo which is from a week ago).
I'm now turning my attention to the interior, I installed the keelson and will start on the strakes on which the deck beams are resting.
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allanyed reacted to Derick V in Blue Dolphin 1926 by Jond - FINISHED - 1:48 - Arctic exploration schooner
Hey Jond I have a connection to Joe Pica Jr. I sent him this form and he was blown away (no pun intended)! He would love to talk and share some of the information and details about his late father’s boat. Please feel free to email me at allcityest(at)gmail.com as he would like me to share his info with you personally.
Derick
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allanyed reacted to tlevine in HMS PEGASUS by giampieroricci - Scale 1:36 - Swan-Class Sloop from plans by David Antscherl & Greg Herbert
It is interesting to see the difference between the European and US/Canadian situations. In the States, there are few contests and a few non-competitive shows. Although some models are built by people who accept commissions, I would not describe them as professional modelers. Your Pegasus is beautiful and deserves to be appreciated by the modelling community.
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allanyed reacted to glbarlow in Sloop Speedwell 1752 by Chuck - Ketch Rigged Sloop - POF - prototype build
It’s just a pre- announcement of a ‘copy’ being pieced together now by some Chinese hack. 😳
I just read it as well (as a guest, I was kicked out long ago). Interesting how some members are complimentary while the staff and admins work hard to disparage Chuck at every turn. This comment by a member “ I emailed Chuck with updates and progress pictures and found him to be very personable, interested and encouraging. A much more personal investment of his time and interest than one might otherwise expect from the head of a commercial venture.“ must have really hurt.
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allanyed reacted to tlevine in Blocks: wood, card or 3D resin?
Make the blocks you need. Although tedious, it is not hard and does not require any fancy tools...just wood, a pinvise/drill and a razor saw.
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allanyed got a reaction from AnobiumPunctatum in HMS Bristol 1775 by robdurant - Scale 1:64 - Portland-class 50-gun ship - as built from NMM plans
Rob,
I TRULY hope all goes well for you!!
I have recently been doing some more studying of the Portland class as the 50 gun ships of any era are probably my favorites.
This is very late to the table--- Christian mentioned I think that Portland has the conventional framing pattern with double and single frames. This made sense to me but I just noticed a few days ago that on the framing plan for Portland there is a note that there are to be dry pieces of oak between every frame. They show an example of these pieces at station O. Whether this carried over to the later ships of the class I have no idea, but barring additional contemporary information to the contrary, I think one could argue there were no double frames.
Allan
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allanyed got a reaction from Bob Cleek in How much more difficult is it to cut and lay individual deck planks vs full length strips?
The bulkhead spacing on many kits has a much bigger spacing of the bulkheads (deck beams). In the case of Polaris from OcCre, as mentioned above there is no such ship in real life so maybe it's best to go with what feels right to you as it is a beginner kit. See post #5 in the topic https://modelshipworld.com/topic/34238-occre-polaris-is-there-a-real-role-model/ For example if this was a multi deck ship the upper deck beams are about 4 feet asunder. The forecastle and quarter deck beams are closer to 2 feet asunder. For your single deck vessel it is probably a guess, but two feet to three feet asunder would probably be OK.
Give careful consideration to the hull planking which is usually much more of a challenge. Study the tutorial by David Antscherl here at MSW in the Articles Database and the four part You Tube video by Chuck Passaro as it will serve you well in the future.
Allan
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allanyed got a reaction from mtaylor in How much more difficult is it to cut and lay individual deck planks vs full length strips?
You wrote. How much more difficult is it to cut and lay individual deck planks vs full length strips?
In my own experience, it is not. In practice many times I found it easier to do typical scaled 25 foot lengths. There may be a problem though as your build is POB and the spacing of bulkheads may not be conducive to realistic butt shifts. If that is the case, full length strakes may be better and then just fake the butts.
Allan
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allanyed reacted to marsalv in L'Amarante by marsalv - 1:36 - POF
To allanyed: Material used for this part is boxwood. The part is made using a cnc milling machine, which enables precise milling from both sides. The procedure can be seen in the photos in post 8.
I continue with the construction of the wing transom.
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allanyed got a reaction from mtaylor in How much more difficult is it to cut and lay individual deck planks vs full length strips?
The bulkhead spacing on many kits has a much bigger spacing of the bulkheads (deck beams). In the case of Polaris from OcCre, as mentioned above there is no such ship in real life so maybe it's best to go with what feels right to you as it is a beginner kit. See post #5 in the topic https://modelshipworld.com/topic/34238-occre-polaris-is-there-a-real-role-model/ For example if this was a multi deck ship the upper deck beams are about 4 feet asunder. The forecastle and quarter deck beams are closer to 2 feet asunder. For your single deck vessel it is probably a guess, but two feet to three feet asunder would probably be OK.
Give careful consideration to the hull planking which is usually much more of a challenge. Study the tutorial by David Antscherl here at MSW in the Articles Database and the four part You Tube video by Chuck Passaro as it will serve you well in the future.
Allan
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